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General Discussion / Re: Chain sliders / guides
« Last post by yanw on Today at 11:04:43 AM »
Thanks Edd.

Jim has made a significant cash outlay to support this so hopefully everyone will understand that some/all of these "development costs" will have to be shared out across the replacement parts run. Thanks Jim :-)
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General Discussion / Re: Chain sliders / guides
« Last post by Edd on Today at 10:55:42 AM »
Hi Gents;

Brilliant stuff man. You guys are 100% pure two stroke spirit!

Edd
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Projects / Re: Yuri's 3xv7 ( 93 3xv sp )
« Last post by 41juergen on Today at 09:09:45 AM »
85hp?  :o
Sounds reasonable for me...
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3XV / Re: Spr center cases
« Last post by SeaR1ck on Today at 07:07:41 AM »
It has those 3 holes on the SP cases like the one in this pic. That would be above the centre crank bearing. The spr doesn't have those stock is what I'm wondering.

I haven't pulled the engine of my spr apart or I wouldn't be wondering. Does it matter much or would the SP cases be better at oiling the centre crank bearing.

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3XV / Re: Spr center cases
« Last post by ybk on Today at 05:58:40 AM »
You mean the main case housing yeah? My understanding is that although they all have different part numbers, all the cases are interchangeable with each other. I've never spotted any significant differences between cases.
The SP crank cover has different drillings for the bearing oil feeds though.
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3XV / Re: 3xv1 Starting Issues
« Last post by ybk on Today at 02:23:56 AM »
Yep certainly different levels of carb cleaning! When cleaning remember to take out the air screw as well, I never bothered but it ended up being the cause of a fluffy idling issue..
Have you got the inline filters inside the carb inlet stubs? I found them really useful in catching crap before it reaches the carb. Replacing the fuel tap with a RGV tap makes life easier with a proper on/off. The vacuum never really worked for me. The stock fuel tap filter inside the tank also warps and lets crap straight through so it's worth checking.
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3XV / Spr center cases
« Last post by SeaR1ck on Today at 01:05:25 AM »
Are the spr center cases the same as the R model? I thought they was different and like the SP but from this pic of some off yahoo they look like R.
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3XV / Re: 3xv1 Starting Issues
« Last post by Warwick on May 23, 2018, 10:46:37 PM »
It should start and idle fine from cold, Steve. First thing to check would be the choke circuit - espcially the choke fuel pick-up hole located in the bottom of the float bowl. Air/carb cleaner should flow freely from the hole and into the gallery that the brass choke dipper tube sits in in the side of the bowl. Take a carb apart and you'll see what I mean. It's not an uncommon fault in my experience.

If all's Ok there, next stop would be the pilot fuel and air circuits. Just check everything flows freely. Take teh pilots out and check the galleries they sit in are clean

People often 'clean' the carbs, but don't actually clean the important bits - or really just move the dirt around and block up important holes while leaving a nice shiney outer bit of the carb...  ::)

Oh, and don't use the prime position on the carb unless you are simply filling the carbs from empty (and even then you don't really need to) The tap is a vacuum type and should be left on the on (or res) positions in normal use. The main problem with using the prime position is that the intake for it is right at the base of the tap in the tank, meaning that it will tend to draw in any debris sitting at the bottom of the tank - and thus block the jets in the carbs. Which might be the cause of your starting problem of course.  ;)

Good luck!
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3XV / 3xv1 Starting Issues
« Last post by Steveog on May 23, 2018, 10:00:39 PM »
Gentlemen -

1991 250 3xv1 (R) with Dog Fight Stainless pipes. Stock ignition box.

I've have had the TZR at the track two times in the past month. The bike runs great, once hot. Smooth power from 5500 to 10,500rpm. A nice surge about 9000. Can maneuver around several bikes with 3 times the horsepower....until we get to a straight. I love this bike, but have several questions. We'll keep it to one problem for this post.

It's weird on start up from cold. With petcock set on "Prime", it coughs after two or three kicks on full choke. It may or may not idle, but won't accept throttle. After three or four of these drills, I can get it to rev up, but I get tons of smoke. Then, keeping the engine around 5000rpm, I can quickly kill the choke and the bike continues to warm up just fine and cleans out, pulling its own weight. It will then idle around 2000 rpm when hot and start on first kick. I've been told, "No smoke visible when following me at speed."

A plug-chop from 11,000rpm looks good on both cylinders.

Using 100%, 91 Octane, unleaded gas. Auto oil injection. BelRay Si7 injection oil. The air filter is clean. Stock air box.

I live at 387 feet above seal level. Temps from 65 to 85. High humidity.

After having owned several "new" two-strokes back in the 70's, they would start and run and idle on two kicks, max. I don't believe this startup sequence for the TZR is normal.

I would appreciate any opinions or solutions.

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3XV / Re: I hurt my TZR
« Last post by Steveog on May 23, 2018, 09:10:03 PM »
Good you understood my intention. You're right about no real medical solution for cracked or bruised ribs.

Glad you found parts. I'll get you some pics tomorrow. No energy today following Superbike School. It was quite enlightening. A 27 year old two-stroke, ridden by a 67 year old guy, running down a couple of 2018 BMW S1000RR's. I'm a decent rider, but know the track, which has some technical turns...perfect for the TZR with almost new Michelins. I also got blown away on the straights more than I passed anyone.

Once posted, the experts here can tell you if what I have are front or back signals or if there's a difference. They look to be in great shape.

I also have showroom new-looking, left bar switch gear.

Hope you heal quickly.

Steve
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