Author Topic: TZR 1KT  (Read 4092 times)

saltysealion

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Re: TZR 1KT
« Reply #30 on: April 11, 2020, 02:27:56 PM »
Warning: this topic has not been posted in for at least 565 days.
LOL.
The last post was in 2017, and here we are in 2020... the bike is still in bits.


The biggest challenge at the moment is finding out where I left things at when I last touched them. Parts tend to grow legs over 3 years and go walking too. That said.... I've managed to get a few things done so heres an update:


1. Post cleaning the crank cases, I got caught up trying to pull the shifter drum bearing. Took me awhile, but i did manage to pull it and pop a new one in. God, I've come to realise that was  not worth it. I don't think it made it any better but anyways, new bearings in use; check!




2. Gear stacks! Stripped and rebuilt.

3. Assembling the bottom end... gears are in and shift ok. Crank drop next. I hope I can glue the two engine halves in. 3 years ago,  I was given advice about the two O rings that go on the bottom half, they are IN baby!


I'm going to come back here and add pics. It's a little difficult to post pictures at the moment but I think they are worth it. I hope the idea of this project not being dead brings some joy to someone.
« Last Edit: April 12, 2020, 02:30:18 PM by saltysealion »

mboddy

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Re: TZR 1KT
« Reply #31 on: April 12, 2020, 03:25:41 AM »
Hey Salty. Maybe you need some competition to move you along.
I have a 2XT frame sitting on the bench.
I plan to build it into a P6 250cc Proddy race bike. But first it will become a road registered bike so I can ride it and sort it out.
Shall we see who finishes first? I have a couple of other projects on the go and so it won't be a fast build.
TZR250 2XT, IKT F3, TDR250, R1-Z

saltysealion

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Re: TZR 1KT
« Reply #32 on: April 12, 2020, 02:19:33 PM »
Hah cool idea mboddy, see how we go but I got a few things that can hold me bacK :(

mboddy

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Re: TZR 1KT
« Reply #33 on: April 12, 2020, 02:39:32 PM »
Hah cool idea mboddy, see how we go but I got a few things that can hold me bacK :(

As do I. But I will start a new thread for the build and see how we go.
TZR250 2XT, IKT F3, TDR250, R1-Z

saltysealion

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Re: TZR 1KT
« Reply #34 on: April 12, 2020, 02:53:42 PM »
Would you be able to confirm my understanding of the parts diagram is right.

It’s difficult to see things in relation to the case itself.

The collar (8) goes on the outside of the engine,  between the case and the shifting arm.

I’ve taken a photo. Is it right?



(7) is a seal that goes into the other side of the case all together?

mboddy

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Re: TZR 1KT
« Reply #35 on: April 13, 2020, 12:03:08 AM »
Yes. That all looks good.
TZR250 2XT, IKT F3, TDR250, R1-Z

saltysealion

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Re: TZR 1KT
« Reply #36 on: April 18, 2020, 06:21:58 AM »
I have had more progress.

I’m trying to build the clutch side, and just mixed up my parts and logs.

Can anyone here identify the trust washers here?
16 & 17?




mboddy

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Re: TZR 1KT
« Reply #37 on: April 18, 2020, 07:36:45 AM »
16 and 17
TZR250 2XT, IKT F3, TDR250, R1-Z

saltysealion

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Re: TZR 1KT
« Reply #38 on: May 17, 2020, 03:31:20 PM »
Things are happening. i cant believe it.


The bottom end is almost there. Recently, fly wheel and clutch has been installed. I'm finalising the side cover which includes the water propeller and oil pump. I'm also in the middle of tidying up some carbs. Whats been interesting are the little challenges that come along the way. There is a bit of assumed knowledge when consulting the manual. How things should sit together isn't always described.

Eg. Knowing when the flywheel is on properly and locked with the dkey or knowing if a gasket should be pushed all the way or just flush with the case. Perhaps one could take more care when disassembling it to see its current state as a guide. There have been tons of little lessons along the way. Thanks to Mark for the huge support on that front.


The carbs have been fun. They spent 4 hours each in yamalubes dip and a number of cycles in an ultrasonic cleaner. I ran the ultrasonic before the dip, and after the dip. I found that after the dip, more bubbles came out if that means anything.

Overall, they are better, but far from perfect. I couldn't get the emulsion out of the left carb, it was rusty and cruddy. That same area is still far from perfect after all this cleaning. It's still got some crap and varnish. You can see in the photo that the metal is stained black around where the tube goes. It just does not seem to want to clean off.

If you have any tips that would be cool, but for now I'm pushing on. They will have all new jets, gaskets and all. I think I better slap it back together.

Whilst cleaning the carbs in the ultrasonic machine, I figured I'd tumble the callipers as well. I sweetened my afternoon by snapping off one of the bleeder nipples on the area caliber. It's sorted now but that was a bit of a time sink.


Here are some update pics.

« Last Edit: May 17, 2020, 03:51:59 PM by saltysealion »

James P

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Re: TZR 1KT
« Reply #39 on: May 24, 2020, 05:39:53 AM »
The carbs have been fun. They spent 4 hours each in yamalubes dip and a number of cycles in an ultrasonic cleaner. I ran the ultrasonic before the dip, and after the dip. I found that after the dip, more bubbles came out if that means anything.

Overall, they are better, but far from perfect. I couldn't get the emulsion out of the left carb, it was rusty and cruddy. That same area is still far from perfect after all this cleaning. It's still got some crap and varnish. You can see in the photo that the metal is stained black around where the tube goes. It just does not seem to want to clean off.

If you want a near perfect finish on the carb bodies, I would suggest sending them here: https://wetblasting.net/ (see also https://www.facebook.com/servicesspecialisedblasting). There are others who offer similar services, but I'm not sure whether their processes are exactly the same. Besides, I have been using Wayne's service for about 15 years and he has always done a good job. If you are concerned about blasting the clear plastic slide observation windows or the white plastic atomiser air intake fittings, have a talk to Wayne about masking them (he may just be able to avoid them when blasting). Although the parts are always returned nice and clean, I would suggest a further period in the ultrasonic bath to ensure no foreign material is left in any of the passages, followed by vigorous agitation in hot soapy water and rinsing with clean hot water (and drying obviously :) ) before reassembly.

Whether you send the carbs away for wet blasting or not, I would suggest dismantling them further by removing the front body castings. Replacement gaskets are available, but the originals are sometimes reusable if removed carefully. There may possibly be some 'crud' caught in the atomiser air intake system (from white plastic intake fitting, through passages in front body casting, through main air jet to atomiser air passage in main body casting). To ensure the passages are clean, you can punch out the main air jet and brass ball from the 'inside', which gives much better access to the passages for cleaning and inspection. The white plastic fittings are difficult to remove (especially without damaging them), so it may be better to leave them in place. However, removing the main air jet and blanking ball will likely give you sufficient access to the passages of the atomiser air intake system.
If you will be converting the carbs to Formula 3 specification, removing the main air jet and blanking ball is required anyway. Otherwise, if you want to keep the carbs 'standard', you can convert them to 2XT specification instead. The 2XT carbs use screw-in main air jets (standard Mikuni BS30/97 air jets - same type as pilot air jet) and a blanking screw instead of a ball. The atomiser air passage of a 1KT carb front body casting can be tapped to accept the screw-in air jet and blanking screw.

As well as the jets and passages of the main body of the carb, ensure the power jet and starter jet passages in the float bowls are clear - they are frequently clogged!

Regards,
James