Author Topic: My TZM 150 build  (Read 2014 times)

SeaR1ck

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My TZM 150 build
« on: January 10, 2018, 09:04:47 PM »
This build might start off a little slow right now I bought through Tyga a new left over 1994 TZM 150 in black with purple graphics. Overall it is in good shape but like a barn find some dirt n corrosion on some stuff.

It is definitely new and unused I'm going to start with the engine first. Do you guys think I should replace all of the seals crank mains etc even the gaskets? Thermostat?

It has the dreaded Phillips heads for the case screws those I'm gonna swap to hex head.

ybk

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Re: My TZM 150 build
« Reply #1 on: January 11, 2018, 01:01:10 AM »
Get yourself a set of JIS screwdrivers.They are meant for those screws, they seat way better and dont cam out as easily.

I have this set https://www.amazon.com/Hozan-JIS-5-JIS-Screwdriver-Gen/dp/B003F63WI8/ref=pd_sim_469_11?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B003F63WI8&pd_rd_r=2XHANERZ0ZNY7CVB9YCD&pd_rd_w=HFW9l&pd_rd_wg=glFCp&psc=1&refRID=2XHANERZ0ZNY7CVB9YCD

The long one is awesome for those case screws.

SeaR1ck

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Re: My TZM 150 build
« Reply #2 on: January 11, 2018, 07:43:02 AM »
Looks like I'm going to have to get the frame painted cleaned this black grease off and it has stained the paint.

SeaR1ck

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Re: My TZM 150 build
« Reply #3 on: January 11, 2018, 07:45:09 AM »
This section of the cross tube on the frame is slightly rusted causing the paint to flake.


SeaR1ck

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Re: My TZM 150 build
« Reply #4 on: January 11, 2018, 07:47:11 AM »
The inlet to the oil feed was totally rusted this is after I cleaned it up some.

SeaR1ck

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Re: My TZM 150 build
« Reply #5 on: January 11, 2018, 07:49:42 AM »
The case side I cleaned up with a scotch brite pad it was all dirty like the other side.

SeaR1ck

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Re: My TZM 150 build
« Reply #6 on: January 12, 2018, 08:39:32 PM »
So I decided to go ahead an order all new seals for the engine. Cept I can't seem to get the seal for the rpm cable on the clutch cover looks like it is discontinued.

yanw

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Re: My TZM 150 build
« Reply #7 on: January 12, 2018, 10:54:00 PM »
A wise choice as I suspect they would all have gone hard and be leaking.

SeaR1ck

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Re: My TZM 150 build
« Reply #8 on: January 15, 2018, 03:19:25 AM »
I got the frame stripped down completely and ready to get painted and the swing arm.

I also pulled the fly wheel off that all looks good but the crank seal. It looks like it was leaking and when I wiped off the surface the rubber was showing bubbling. Pic is before I wiped it of.
« Last Edit: January 15, 2018, 03:23:38 AM by SeaR1ck »

SeaR1ck

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Re: My TZM 150 build
« Reply #9 on: January 15, 2018, 03:21:58 AM »
I also pulled the clutch cover and oil pump off the clutch looks perfect zero wear but the gasket is dried out.


ybk

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Re: My TZM 150 build
« Reply #10 on: January 16, 2018, 02:40:29 AM »
Bummer about the seals if stood so long  :-\ Im also about to recommison some 3xvs that stood for 10 years so this is a good heads up.
« Last Edit: January 16, 2018, 02:51:55 AM by ybk »

SeaR1ck

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Re: My TZM 150 build
« Reply #11 on: January 22, 2018, 01:35:22 AM »
I tore down more of the engine glad I noticed this the shift shaft was bent slightly. It must have happened in shipping I think they dropped the box. Got a new one coming and the frame n swingarm are getting painted soon.

SeaR1ck

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Re: My TZM 150 build
« Reply #12 on: January 24, 2018, 06:48:31 AM »
Cleaned up all that black dirt grease off the top of the cases and removed the reed block gasket. Cleaned up the reed block manifold and shin etsu greased it.
It looks a lot better than it did before it uses the same reed petals as the 1kt. The rubber carb manifold and center cases all have 4AP designation aka TZM.


Toop

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Re: My TZM 150 build
« Reply #13 on: January 24, 2018, 01:22:45 PM »
I do not know if you have this file.
I hope it will be useful  ;)

James P

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Re: My TZM 150 build
« Reply #14 on: January 26, 2018, 03:12:22 AM »
...I can't seem to get the seal for the rpm cable on the clutch cover looks like it is discontinued.

Do you mean the O-ring for the plastic body fitting (which seals the plastic body fitting to the engine case), or the rubber washer which sits on top of the plastic body fitting (which seals the cable to the plastic body fitting)?

The tacho drive fitting looks identical to that on the DT200R (the plastic body fitting was originally an RD350LC part). If the parts are interchangeable, you may have luck with the following:

O-ring: 93210-12327 (ID 12, Th 2.0)
Rubber washer: 4L0-17818-00 (ID 7.5, OD 14, Th 2.0)

Not sure if I got the wrong end of the stick from your description - let me know if so! 8)

Regards,
James