Author Topic: SPR & RS  (Read 27113 times)

SeaR1ck

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Re: SPR & RS
« Reply #15 on: April 25, 2018, 01:00:40 AM »
Oh sweetness that's good news the 3xv part number on Yamaha japan website parts search was coming up nla. So the 98 thru 03 yzf600r will work then.

ybk

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Re: SPR & RS
« Reply #16 on: April 25, 2018, 02:39:55 AM »
Yep, haven't compared them side by side but it looks the same. There are others as well, cant remember the numbers now but this also looks like it will do the job (from a Yamaha YBR I think)

 

SeaR1ck

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Re: SPR & RS
« Reply #17 on: April 25, 2018, 11:32:40 PM »
Can you test fit it? I'd like to order one mine is a little worn and rattles on the bar.

ybk

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Re: SPR & RS
« Reply #18 on: April 27, 2018, 09:41:30 AM »
Yeah ok, have to backpedal a bit. They are not the same sorry  :-[ I only wanted the grip so didn't worry about the tube.

It looks like you should be able to mod either of them to work but you'll lose a bit of leverage due to the hole being closer to the tube..(The ybr one may be a better match with its one hole but the stops might also be an issue)  :-\
« Last Edit: April 27, 2018, 09:45:42 AM by ybk »

SeaR1ck

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Re: SPR & RS
« Reply #19 on: April 28, 2018, 01:13:08 AM »
Damn if could get the dimensions could get them 3d printed.


Yuri

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Re: SPR & RS
« Reply #20 on: April 28, 2018, 06:37:19 AM »
It is time for a TZ throttle

ybk

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Re: SPR & RS
« Reply #21 on: July 16, 2018, 03:53:27 AM »
The (expensive)colors of Christmas in July:
« Last Edit: July 16, 2018, 03:55:42 AM by ybk »

ybk

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Re: SPR & RS
« Reply #22 on: July 16, 2018, 03:55:27 AM »
oh and a tank derusting kit :) Getting everything ready beforehand, every time something is ticked off the list 2 more gets added :-\

SeaR1ck

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Re: SPR & RS
« Reply #23 on: July 25, 2018, 06:43:22 AM »
My spr got it back together i put the boost bottles back on lubed the cables and connected the oil pump back up. Cleaned the carbs and new orings and gaskets in them.

Made sure everything was set like it should be set. Cleaned up the airboxes a teaser pic almost ready to start it and make sure it's running like it should be.


SeaR1ck

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Re: SPR & RS
« Reply #24 on: July 30, 2018, 06:38:58 PM »
So far success it's passed it's first couple of start up tests and a couple quick runs around the neighborhood block.

It's running much better than when i first got it. It was a boggy mess off the bottom end it's not anymore! I did manage to rip it up to 10k a couple times briefly. It surprised me when i revved it up in first gear to 10.5k from a stop and it started to pull up into a small wheelie. I don't remember my vj22 or mc21 doing that as easily.

Just waiting on some led lights to come in before really riding it around more should be in by tomorrow.

SeaR1ck

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Re: SPR & RS
« Reply #25 on: July 31, 2018, 06:13:27 AM »
It's all back together again and running  8)

Warwick

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Re: SPR & RS
« Reply #26 on: July 31, 2018, 10:07:12 AM »
There are few finer days than First Ride Day. Enjoy! 8)
Still Smoking...

jolly748

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Re: SPR & RS
« Reply #27 on: August 03, 2018, 11:34:17 PM »
Beautiful bikes! Enjoy. Andy. :)

ybk

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Re: SPR & RS
« Reply #28 on: March 18, 2019, 02:24:48 AM »
Nothing exciting, just started stripping the spare SPR motor to see what it's like on the inside. It's a low km engine (6000km) that looks to have never been apart so I'm hoping for nice barrels and crank. It's been stood in the closet for the better part of 10 years, probably a while in japan as well. Last time this engine was a feature we were on the old old forum still.. :o

So here are a bunch of pictures of the engine coming apart:

Plumbing anyone?



On the stand:



The whole thing is very dirty, which actually saved the ally from oxidation. Some rust though:



These heads don't look like they have ever been taken off:



Something I've noticed on other engines as well, the 2 crankcase halves have markings on them. Has to be done by the factory to mark matching cases maybe?



Heads off, both look like this:



Just dirty with no damage.

Barrels:



Both barrels appear OK, hard to get good pics but the cross hatching is actually good.





Looks good, the marks are just carbon:



and the other one:



So far it matches a 6000km engine I'd say.

Clutch plates out:



Next up, the countershaft sprocket that looks married to the shaft:





The junk looking tool for the job   :P :



4 whacks and the nut happily gave up its hold:



This impact driver really works well, looks and feels like cheap junk (was very cheap) but it's removed every nut its come across. This is the first 3xv engine that still has that little plate behind the sprocket?

The flywheel nut also quickly disposed of:



Clutch hub nut gone:



This one actually needed 1 more whack than the sprocket.

The dry clutch has a few more bits and seals than the wet clutch:



Interesting on the later motors Yamaha seems to have switch to a different black case sealant:



Popping off the crank cover things seem to look OK:



Big ends look OK but you never know until its been pulled apart. Of all the cranks I?ve only ever had one whose pins weren?t pitted. Centre seal has a bit of a rough spot.

I'll put this one away for a later day:



I'll box the engine up for a later day, this time storing it a bit better. I'll pull the gearbox from this one as my other SPR has the tall first gear which is not much fun on the road.

And just for interest, I found out Yamaha sells 'OEM' loom tape to repair your wiring loom. Ordered it just for the hell of it and you get 6 rolls, pretty cheap too. These are supposedly better than ordinary electrical tape for your loom?



That's it. Just a few more hundred years then I'll be done  :-\

SeaR1ck

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Re: SPR & RS
« Reply #29 on: March 18, 2019, 04:29:11 AM »
I'm about to start a similar on taking with my spr. My plumbing isn't as bad the pervious owner put the older style mechanical oil pump in it to run the sugo cdi. So i don't have any of the oil solenoid injector parts.

Got most of the parts to rebuild the engine now. Going to put the dry clutch away and convert it to a wet setup. Even though I have a new complete dry clutch plates for it gonna save them since one of the plates is nla now.

I have a used complete earlier R bottom end for parts. I must have the really tall first gear too because it's a real bitch to start off in.

Do you think my R transmission would be better for street use? Better ratios?