SPR & RS

[bulldogboy]

  Im gathering parts for my build( although not sure ill be doing the building), so interesting to look at your pics, plumbing picture slightly worrying ....s.p crank ordered, Andy at webbs has given me a list of piston kit/gaskets/seals required, but how many ,and what bearings are required?

[ybk]

Do you think my R transmission would be better for street use? Better ratios?

Yes, that's what I reckon. The tall first gear is a hassle and heavy on the clutch..

Im gathering parts for my build( although not sure ill be doing the building), so interesting to look at your pics, plumbing picture slightly worrying ....s.p crank ordered, Andy at webbs has given me a list of piston kit/gaskets/seals required, but how many ,and what bearings are required?

All aboard the part gathering train  Make up your own part lists with the part manual. The majority of bearings are off the shelf so no need for OEM, especially wheel bearings. Take lots of pics as you disassemble, cable routing etc seems logical when taking apart but putting back to together the logic is suddenly gone

[bulldogboy]

Yes will br taking plenty of pics and labelling everything, dont want a picture like your box, but in reverse, full of OLD parts with no home! I do have phils old bike for reference which will be a big help,sorry ive hijacked your thread! How is your project going?

[yanw]

Top tip is to get some white, wide if you can get it, insulation tape. You can write on it with marker pen, make tags with it to mark up what wires/hoses go where and use it to close open holes that bolts like to jump into (airboxes, crankcases etc). The good thing is that you can see anything you have not removed as the white stands out.

[bulldogboy]

  thanks, all tips great fully received,will heed your advice for sure, thanks, got a bike on ebay that must go to make room before i can start, then its all systems go

[thump566]

Top tip is to get some white, wide if you can get it, insulation tape. You can write on it with marker pen, make tags with it to mark up what wires/hoses go where and use it to close open holes that bolts like to jump into (airboxes, crankcases etc). The good thing is that you can see anything you have not removed as the white stands out.

Also found business card plastic cases very useful, put nuts/bolts and associate peripherals in them together with a business card noting what the items relate to, particularly if you may face a mountain of bolts later on and are not sure where each one came from 

[bulldogboy]

  cheers for the tip, im quite meticulous and methodical, if not very knowledgeable

[ybk]

So the SPR is getting some attention finally. Partly forced due to incoming legislation that will kill all non-abs fitted bikes. So gotta get it sorted and registered before..

Pulling it apart is always easy,



Wheeling the engine out on the toolbox, this will go to the bench for later. Chassis first.



now on to the separating the swingarm from the frame..hmm a few taps on the axle confirmed that it was stuck stuck stuck. Steve might get some flashbacks from seeing a frame on the floor with some penetrating oil nearby..



Soaked overnight and pulled it out with some suitable threaded rod, very satisfying.



The insides weren't as bad as I thought. A brown WD40 soup came out but the bearings and bush/axle not so bad. Either way I'll replace everything here.



Now that almost everything is stripped the cleaning can commence. Bikes' been stood for 12 years so it's dirty and a little mouldy.. Invested in a compressor and a soda blasting gun. Tested it then re-invested in a larger compressor. Now it can keep up, a nice oil-less square 4 cylinder silent compressor. Initially intended to just blast the odd aluminium part but it kinda snowballed into blasting everything. Quite addictive and rather satisfying.

Some examples,



Gives a nice matte finish and cleans aly nicely. Won't remove corrosion though, but does a good enough job, ie,:



On a lower pressure it cleans up plated surface very nicely:









Anybody else had a go at disks with a toothbrush? Soda blasting is a bit easier,



Also cleans up rubber bits very nicely giving it soft finish.

Slowly working through a big pile of parts to clean or blast.

Sent the shock off to get rebuilt - it was wasted 12 years ago already.. I'm using my spare shock as it's in better cosmetic condition. Rebuilder let know that it uses a non-standard sized seal on the seal head (obviously.. so he made a custom seal head that uses a standard Showa seal. So should be good for the future. Wonder if it's an SPR thing (probably) or if all the SP shocks use the same internal seals?

Some pics from the rebuild, looks like he has the right kit for the job:





and freshly rebuilt,



Next is the frame and swingarm, the paint is rough from oxidation here and there. Looks like the old chain lube has lifted paint from the swinger so will try to touch up with matched paint.

Then wheels, these bear scars of a thousand tyre changes...which means that this was a track bike in its previous life. Makes sense because the chassis is a little rough but the bodywork is quite nice, probably been stored away in the loft ready for when it's time to sell!

[thump566]

Looking good 

The compressor and soda blasting seem to be good investments 

[bulldogboy]

 , yeah that soda blasting brings parts up real good, looks like your making good progress with reference to your pitted swingarm in need of touchup, mines the same on one bike, are there paint codes for the frames and swingarms?

[bulldogboy]

P.S. jealous of that mint looking spr/ sp/rs tank! How bad is the old one?

[SeaR1ck]

Interested to know what they used for a seal head since I'm gonna be rebuilding my spr suspension soon.

[Steveog]

Good work, Karel. Glad the swinger came apart easily. Your shop looks top notch.

Have you considered “CLR” for corrosion? It may not be a New Zealand product, but Amazon would probably have it, plus free shipping.

If you’d like. I’ll send you some.

Steve

[James P]

So the SPR is getting some attention finally. Partly forced due to incoming legislation that will kill all non-abs fitted bikes. So gotta get it sorted and registered before..

Karel,

I could understand the legislation applying to new bikes from a certain date, but even 'old' ones too? Does this mean you will have to keep the SPR registered in perpetuity to retain exemption from the new requirements? I presume this is a 'New Zealand thing', but I'd be interested to know whatever you can tell me/us about it!

Thanks & regards,
James

[ybk]

Also on the sideline, getting a new frame guard made. From left, the design, original that disintegrated and the first 3D printed prototype. This sits on the frame by the countershaft sprocket. Yamaha made a dedicated 3XV part for the later 3XV's, the early ones use the 3MA part. I suck at 3D modelling so will probably have to print a thousand more before it fits correctly.

Also doing bits for a SPR leak down tester. This will plug the exhaust port. This is a little easier so far haha

, yeah that soda blasting brings parts up real good, looks like your making good progress with reference to your pitted swingarm in need of touchup, mines the same on one bike, are there paint codes for the frames and swingarms?

Paint codes are here:
http://pure2strokespirit.net/redandblueftp/color_charts/3XV%20Farbtabelle%20_%20color%20chart.html

I have given these to a few paint shops and they always just go 'huh'. I had it matched in an aerosol can. 99% there I reckon. I'll take some pics once I have sprayed the swingarm:

I soda blasted the bad paint:



I suck at spray painting so it will most likely look like a baboon's bum when done in which case I'll probably get the whole thing sprayed.

Interested to know what they used for a seal head since I'm gonna be rebuilding my spr suspension soon.

He told me he had to custom make it but that could mean he just used another one that fits.. The dimensions he gave me were 12.5mm x 40mm which is the more commonly available size supposedly. Apparently the stock seal head is a 'Soqi' unit.

Your shop looks top notch.

Have you considered “CLR” for corrosion?

The shop is severely cramped and I miss my double garage  At least I dumped the crappy existing workbench and made my own from a thick kitchen counter. Much better.

The CLR stuff, is that for corrosion removal?

I could understand the legislation applying to new bikes from a certain date, but even 'old' ones too? Does this mean you will have to keep the SPR registered in perpetuity to retain exemption from the new requirements? I presume this is a 'New Zealand thing', but I'd be interested to know whatever you can tell me/us about it!

All new bikes entering the fleet for the first time this year has to have ABS. All secondhand bikes entering the fleet for the first has to have ABS by end of next year. I can understand the reasoning and all but it does mean no more imports of cool non-ABS bikes..

The SPR has only gone halfway into the system years and years ago. Never fully road registered before it was mothballed. So now I have to do it over and better on the safe side and get it done before the point of no return (even though it has once been complied, you never know what red tape may be hiding around the corner)

And yes, I'm wondering about the need to register until end of time for fear of losing the exemption. I'm hoping for sensibility to reign but yeah..

Relevant link:
https://www.transport.govt.nz/multi-modal/keystrategiesandplans/road-safety-strategy/abs-for-motorcycles/

P.S. jealous of that mint looking spr/ sp/rs tank! How bad is the old one?

Tank on the SPR looks good from far but it's basically junk. Even when I got the bike back in the day it was full of pin holes. Back then I put some epoxy on it and called it a day, haha, have to shake my head at my early attempts at trying to fix stuff. Taking the bike apart now I still shake my head at the ham fisted repairs  The shame!

It got worse though, I thought "hey, let's leave the tank full of petrol for 4 years then it wont rust!". The ethanol in the petrol ended up having its way with the tank:



Rusted straight through. On both my bikes. So nowadays ethanol is not in my good books. (I picked up a spare SPR tank a few years ago, back then it was an arm and a leg but I just bit the bullet. Looking back it was actually fairly cheap compared to today's prices)

At least it's fairly easy to test if the petrol has ethanol in because you cant really trust what they say and all.

Add some food colouring to the petrol, give it a shake, if there is ethanol it will dissolve and colour the petrol:



If no ethanol it will just stay separated even after shaking:



You can get ethanol out by mixing the petrol with water, the ethanol will dissolve in the water then separate in two layers after which you can siphon off the petrol. Only problem is you lose some octane because the ethanol acts as an octane booster. Win some lose some etc..

So know your enemy! haha