Author Topic: SPR & RS  (Read 4898 times)


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Re: SPR & RS
« Reply #45 on: March 11, 2020, 02:45:01 PM »
Shame about the old tank, yeah looks like a sieve would hold more fuel, what i only just realised is that although they are similar, 3xva and 3xvb tanks are almost the same as the spr ,but the purple flash on the spr tank is straight and almost black, whereas rs/sp tanks have a wavy line to the bottom edge and are more purple, ..i know, i spend far too much time staring at pictures of 3xvs!  Interesting about the lower chain guard on the frame, im currently having some front and rear chain slider kits made, and ive got some lower left fairing brackets coming, just as an experiment really, should of included that lower one as part of the kit, sorry i was being lazy as soon as i posted i realised about the paint codes for the frames
« Last Edit: March 11, 2020, 10:20:12 PM by bulldogboy »


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Re: SPR & RS
« Reply #46 on: March 27, 2020, 03:56:30 AM »
So I assume most of us are home currently in these rather upside down times..Hope everybody is OK.

Hitting the garage for some distraction, attention turned to the SPR forks. Turns out they are little different than the other's I've done so far. Certainly differs from the 92 SP  .

Opening up the cap:

It has a different top bit which is also more difficult to remove than the R and other SP forks. The 92 SP fork you can just push the spacer down by hand and pop it under the damper nut. On a R fork it's a little harder but the SPR you definitely need a spring compressor as the spacer needs to go down a fair bit. A ratchet strap and metal hooks nicked from the kitchen does it nicely (wish I had metalwork skills and a welder..would make the proper tool, oh well.)

Managed to disassemble the lot :

Notice that the chrome stanchion doesn't have a top groove for the bush because it only has a single bush in each leg as far as I can see. The single bush sits in the outer tube by the seal. The parts manual doesn't even show this bush!
What’s cool is that the stanchion now slides out with no effort leaving the seal behind, no more knocking out the seal with the bush. Makes removing and installing the seal much easier since now the seal goes in before the stanchion. Simply tap it in with a large bearing or such.

Another look at the top cap:

The bummer is that there isn't much info about the forks in the manual... The sugo manual has compression/rebound settings but that is related to the sugo setup which has a larger air gap (interesting that the sugo air gap is larger than the stock one). The main manual has these that helps, so that covers the stock air gap at least:

But no confirmation as to what this damper rod thread distance is (this is for R forks) :

When I disassembled it looked like was also 10.5mm but could be more, not sure. Has anybody else rebuilt their SPR forks?

« Last Edit: March 27, 2020, 07:23:53 AM by ybk »