Author Topic: How to you prep/paint exhaust ?  (Read 342 times)


  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Location: Scarborough
  • Posts: 141
How to you prep/paint exhaust ?
« on: April 23, 2018, 02:09:53 PM »
Hi removed exhausts prior to painting.  How do I prep them for painting?  I'm going to use plastikote bbq paint and this requires curing.  I'm not sure how to do this as they wont fit in the over.  Was going to try doing with a heat gun.

Any tips and advice would be appreciated as ive never done it before. 

Exhaust Bolt stud came out when I removed the exhaust.  Have ordered another one, how do you fit it? 

Thanks John


  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Location: Mansfield UK
  • Posts: 293
  • Mansfield,England..
Re: How to you prep/paint exhaust ?
« Reply #1 on: April 24, 2018, 09:11:29 AM »
Wire wheel in Drill for the stubborn areas. For the areas that are smooth I just used Scotch Brite  to key the surface.

Yep heat gun in the normal choice but I've also used plumbers blow torch to cure paint .
Twitchy left hand rider ;-)

James P

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Location: Sydney, Australia
  • Posts: 426
  • Sydney, Australia
Re: How to you prep/paint exhaust ?
« Reply #2 on: April 25, 2018, 06:25:39 AM »
Exhaust Bolt stud came out when I removed the exhaust.  Have ordered another one, how do you fit it?

I presume you mean one of the exhaust studs in the cylinder...? Can't you re-use the stud which came out?

Whatever stud you end up (re)fitting, just make sure the female thread in the cylinder is good. If so, give it a good clean out and test-fit the stud (also cleaned) to make sure it goes in smoothly. Then, apply some Loctite (or other thread-locking compound) to the stud and fit it.
Of course, make sure both threads on the stud are in good condition and also the thread in the nut. If there is some play in any of the threads, you can use low, medium or high strength Loctite as required (even a small amount of Araldite if you are desperate) to make sure that the stud will stay in the cylinder every time you undo the nut in future. My own preference for good threads is to use low or medium strength Loctite for the portion of the stud in the cylinder to ensure that it stays put when the nut is undone.
Some makers (including Yamaha, I have found) supply studs with slightly shallower thread depth (or possibly wider thread forms) on the "casting" side, so that the stud will/should be a tighter fit on that side. This means that the stud should always stay in the casting every time the nut is undone and thread-locking compound should not be required. This is fine for parts in as-new condition, but for anything used/abused, you'll just have to assess what you've got before deciding how to proceed. In any case, always try to refit the stud the correct way around if it is ever removed!

Apologies for perhaps stating the obvious, but fitting and removal of studs should be carried out using the "double nut" method 8) . The same method should be used if trying to remove a seized nut from a stud which has been removed (although it depends how badly it has seized!) - use the thickest nuts which will fit. I have had to resort to using the "triple nut" method on one or two occasions, but applying heat to the outer part (nut, casting etc.) often works wonders.



  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Location: NZ
  • Posts: 1695
Re: How to you prep/paint exhaust ?
« Reply #3 on: April 25, 2018, 08:16:46 AM »
+1 for what James said (-P)
Haha!, "triple nut" method, thought I was the only one resorting to that ;D