best way to stop a fairing crack travelling

[bulldogboy]

I have a crack , about an inch long, in one of the rear panels, under the seat, which seems to be travelling. What is the best way of stopping it, obviously patch the back, but with what adhesive? and what patch) does any one know what to use, or what not to use ?( that may attack the panel) is there a specific product on the market?

[ybk]

A bit odd but you can dissolve old pieces of fairing in acetone to create a paste that you can use to repair fairing pieces.
I have joined 2 pieces by using a soldering iron to make a groove in the crack (practice first because you can easily ruin it..) and generously using the paste as glue, filler and backing..

Otherwise fiberglass reinforcement?

[bulldogboy]

Inventive! How long would that take to cure? I suppose once the acetone goes off it just reverts to hard plastic? Do you need to key it up with sand paper either side of the crack? Only problem is ive no broken panels, ill have to see if theres any real rough donor panels on ebay.Only bit that sounds a bit worrying is the solering iron bit! Do you need to go say 1/4 of the way through on the crack, just score it so to speak? Thanks ybk, sounds like the way foward.

[ybk]

Cures pretty quick as far as I remember. When cured it's really hard. More brittle than the original plastic though.
Roughing up the surface would help I can imagine. Yeah the soldering iron is a bit risky, a steady hand is required but a groove will help with the strength. It's possible to even 'blend' the crack a bit but the heat will quickly bubble you the paint..
Experiment first though 
I used a piece from a broken v piece as it doesn't have any paint on and is color matched. Any ABS plastic will do though, some guys use Lego blocks...

[bulldogboy]

Lego blocks! Easier to get hold of than a donor fairing, ill give it a go, like you say experiment first, ill get some lego, and acetone, would it be adequate to scrape the crack out with a blade from the inside, soldering iron sounds scary!

[bulldogboy]

Acetone and white lego on order, will report back with pics when repair complete, thanks for the info

[ybk]

soldering iron sounds scary!

Haha ) yeah, a Dremel type tool would be easier also

[bulldogboy]

I have a dremel, will try that first, sounds more forgiving! 

[chubba]

there was a 2 page how to article the other month in practical sportsbike magazine, if I find it out tonight ill try and load a photo up

[bulldogboy]

Nice 1 chubba, any info helpfull

[nic fan]

http://pure2strokespirit.net/forums/index.php?topic=5107.0

[bulldogboy]

Cheers for that link, interesting ,where is "plastex" available,? Lego gets a mention again 

[nic fan]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2060353.m570.l1313.TR2.TRC1.A0.H0.TRS0&_nkw=plastex&_sacat=0

remember to drill a hole at the end of the crack to stop it going any farther.

[evan_calgary]

JBWeld and others make a 2-part plastic weld product.  It is the best product I have found as it still retains flexibility.  There is a grid material also available that looks like fiberglass that helps increase surface area and add some fibers to the mix.  The acetone and plastic welding are both very brittle solutions that will crack again.  The plastic weld is the next best thing to a replacement panel.  It can take continued stress without cracking or delaminating. 

[chubba]

Could not find the one I thought I had