3xv ignitech

[Paul]

What setup was these 2 runs exactly. Same day and porting? Just different pipes?
If so that's a cracker example showing improvements from swapping pipes.
Regards ignition. You are going to have to do a bit more and come out with it before I can help.

[EEKNOWS]

Looks just like the PV isn't dialed in correctly.

[kenny]

Looks just like the PV isn't dialed in correctly.

Id agree there but these curves are on the std CDI not the ignitech one so cant adjust them. This is the issue he is having he cant communicate to the ignitech to adjust anything the computer and cdi are having a tiff lol.

[EEKNOWS]

That will just be the RS232 to USB adaptor , not selecting 'auto' on the com port or having a mismatched CDI/software.

[Warwick]

It's an odd curve assuming a stock CDi? is it a -00? Are the PV's set-up as stock and and working correctly? Have the valves themselves been modded significantly as part of the porting? Is the exhaust area now very significantly greater than before? Have you tried setting the PVs a little lower if so?

I reckon it'd be sensible to get an optimised set-up using the stock ignition before setting up the ignitech if you can, so that you have a good, solid baseline to start the ignition development from and so effectively track and measure the gains.

Good luck.


 

[Neal]

Ok get it running well enough with the stock ignition . When it is running ok , jet up when you install the ignitech . The ignitech likes richer jetting - well it was like that for me .

I had a cable that was useless too . Used Pauls one to get going . You must measure your timing ref marks and mark the flywheel . Then when you get the pc to read the cdi , do a strobe test like mentioned . You can then correct any offset needed . Forget about offset flywheel keys .
Once you have those things set and get the 2 to talk to each other you are half way there .
The best thing to do is do a run on the dyno with the powervalves open , from there you can see where it peaks . That's where the timing should be around 13 degrees ? ( Please correct me if I am wrong ) I have forgotten !
That will get you going . The best results will come from setting the powervalves .

[eyrey1]

What setup was these 2 runs exactly. Same day and porting? Just different pipes?
If so that's a cracker example showing improvements from swapping pipes.
Regards ignition. You are going to have to do a bit more and come out with it before I can help.

runs were within 20 mins of each other only change was the pipes !
pv has been ported and the transfers and exhaust port has been opened up

looks like im going to have to get my mate round with his strobe light and degree wheel
ive seen him using it on his lambretta

[eyrey1]

ignitech sent me this and ive decided to order another lead just incase

 

Software display message „No connection with PC”

There can be more reasons. Some of them:

a) Ignition unit is not supplied. Unit muss be supplied to be able communicate with PC. You

muss switch on bike supply switch or you muss connect ignition to battery (+12V pin and

ground pin).

b) You set bad COM number. New version of software has setting “Com auto”. In this case

software set comport number by itself.

c) Another program use COM port.

d) You use USB-COM adapter by you don’t have installed driver for it.

e) If you are using ignition with USB connector on ignition we use interface from firm

Prolific. Driver has to be installed in some cases. Running of installation file makes it.

You can download it at http://www.ignitech.cz/usb/pl2303/PL2303_Prolific_DriverInstaller_v1.8.0.exe

f) Software at PC and software in unit are not compatible.

g) You have to have cable with min. connection - pins 2-2, 3-3, 5-5 (Canon 9).

 

[eyrey1]

any thoughts on any of this ? about carbs or filters

ive just got the loom kit which dan wired up !
and i plug the cable into the usb port ,and into the unit with ignition on
ill try again tomorrow with it ,here are the dyno printouts ,it rides worse than it looks
it is propper gutless , i think it could be some filters ive put in as its some of them you cut out yourself
havent put the pods on as it went balistic on the dyno afr meter ,it shot off the scale so the operator stopp'd it sharpish !
it was a fast little bugger as std and now ive messed with it its worse
so it has no advance key in its as std with mick abbey/kennys porting and kennys tsa pipes and 210/280 mains
since the dyno run ive taken the piece out of the top airbox lid again
its just got no go its like its not getting enough fuel or its choking out of air
its hard to explain but its crap !  its one of those something and nowt faults but i dont know
im going to take the filters out again and see if its that
ive just had the carbs vapour blased inside and out ! could i have got the carb bodies the wrong way round ? would it make much differance ? i know i put the bowls back right but not the bodies ?
red is std pipes and porting blue is with tsa pipes
sorry about the quality i will see if i can scan them or get dyno dude to e mail me them
and any help would be welcome please ! thankyou in advance

[Paul]

gary
did you look at what all the other lads wrote up there for you?
you are asking for more help but have missed the help already offered.
you have done a load of changes after the dyno by the looks of it AND added the ignitech? is this right?
and you're upset with the ignitech?

[eyrey1]

NO PAUL  ive not changed it after the dyno ive not touch'd it yet
ive ridden it and it was terrible
but the next stage was put the ignition on ,but might leave that now till i see how good i can get it with the oo box on it

and ignitech did say exactly the same as had already been said but i thought id put it up anyway

[casal-fan]

Great topic.
It´s here the forum really can come to help.
Take it from the basis eyey. Already a lot of good tips from people trying to help, and then off course, the basics. Everyone knows them, but following them is another story.
One change at a time!
You have pipes, and ported barrels. What have others done to achive good results? Jetting f. exe. #260-#220 seems to be the choice for upper lidt mod, ported barrels and pipes. You write "2 sizes up" putting the bike (if 00 model) at 280-210. That alone would hypotetically mean one cylinder too rich, and the other too lean = no power.

My opinion, go slow, airboxes with clean filters, std. cdi, jet it like others have done before with these mods... or even a tad richer... and go from there.
Mine has this basic mods... the rest are subtil "finesses"... and as I wrote before RS250 start going backwards in no time.

You are not very specific about the porting either.

Hope you get it sorted soon.
Alone with these basic mods, it is a glorious bike.
Have you been provided with a portmap wich you are allowed to show?

[eyrey1]

cheers casal
portmap you will have to ask kenny he did it to match his pipes !
ive had a big jump foreward today with it ,the cut your own filters stuff is pants took them out
and it runs allot better ,but still cant get the fuel down the pipes
clear fuel pipes ,big air bubbles in it wont go down the pipes to the carbs
everything is clear so its just like siphoning fuel ,even with the tank lid open it wont flow
put some uridium plugs in the bottom one was black
so going to re-jet again to what casal recomends 260-220
running with no filters in like i did last year and it was fine but i will ring webbs tomorrow for a new set
get some petrol to go down the pipes and i will get it dyno'd again and it should be allot better
thanks for thew advice everyone ,bloody filters choking it and fuel
i will post the dyno printout and see what you all think later this week and we will dicide if its ready for the ignition , got the same problem with the aprilia rs250
iut wont find the ignitech when plugged in

[maccas]

If you undo the drain screw on the bottom of the float bowls Gary does fuel piss out when the fuel tap is on?

Are all the breathers on the carbs nice and free?

Is your fuel tap filter nice and clear? Any shit in the bottom of the tank?

Float levels set correctly?

Dan

[eyrey1]

what is the front brass pipe for ? the rear is air solanoid  this is my top left carb is that correct ? floatbowl with 1 overflow ? pic is upside down


and this is my bottom carb? ,bowl has 2 overflows ? what is the brown pipe inlet for it goes nowere or to nothing ?


ran half a tank into a petrol can and its not the petrol tap it just wont flow into the top carb ,petrol goes up about 3 inch in the fuel pipe
fills the carb bowl stays at 3 inch in the pipe and wont go any higher ,cant see any breather pipes holes anywere dan ? where are they ?
if i open the overflow on the carb bowl the fuel just stays at the same level in the pipe ,about 3 inches and wont rise just keeps to the same height