powervalve controler mods

[tzsteve]

this is based on the work that fotis did many years ago
im just posting a few pics all the programming data can be found on the web if you look for it





















after I fitted the box to my bike and given it a quick run with the standard setttings
i tested it with the power valves now
opening 500 rpm later than standard,
and fully open 500 rpm later,
and the fully open angle also increased by a couple of degrees.

this worked well but i found the power coming in in a bit of a rush at just over 7000 rpm

so altered the settings getting the power valves to open 500 rpm earlier than standard but leaving the other settings
as I had just had them
this gave a much smoother power delivery. with less of the sudden rush as the power came in

it surprised me how such little alterations could change the way the engine performed.
                                                 

[James P]

after I fitted the box to my bike and given it a quick run with the standard setttings
i tested it with the power valves now
opening 500 rpm later than standard,
and fully open 500 rpm later,
and the fully open angle also increased by a couple of degrees.

this worked well but i found the power coming in in a bit of a rush at just over 7000 rpm

so altered the settings getting the power valves to open 500 rpm earlier than standard but leaving the other settings
as I had just had them
this gave a much smoother power delivery. with less of the sudden rush as the power came in

it surprised me how such little alterations could change the way the engine performed.                             

Very interesting - thanks for posting all the info and photos.

I am particularly interested to know how your present setting (starting to open 500rpm earlier than standard, fully open 500rpm later than standard) compares to the standard setting in terms of performance. You mentioned that your initial setting worked well (although with a rush at 7000rpm, subsequently moderated by your second setting), but how did it (and/or the setting you have now) compare to performance with the standard setting?

You mentioned that you increased the fully-open angle by a couple of degrees - did you do this by adjusting the pulley cables or by selecting the positions of the remaining switches? With the standard setting, does the PV actually open fully in the 'fully-open' position, or is there some travel remaining?

Thanks & regards,
James

[tzsteve]

Switches 9,10,11,12  alter the angle that the servo goes to,
Ther is no need to alter the pulleys or cables

All the valve timings and positions have a wide range of settings,
Opening can start between3600 and 7500 rpm
Fully open can be between 6660 and 10450 rpm
Fully open angle can be from 30.6. To  46.7 degrees

Re performance ; top end seems to be as standard,
I have not been on the motorway testing it,

I just find it a more civilised ride with the power valves opening the way I have them,
I only use this for riding around town,
the way it is now is better for me.
I'm not racing it and the cylinders are still standard.

I guess that if you had ported the cylinders the power valves as standard would be masking
Any work done raising the exhaust port,
 so it would be worthwhile getting the power valves to open a tad more
To match your exhaust port timing.

Fotis is the bloke who deserves the credit for this work.


Do a search on the web and you will find the info
For the dip switch settings,
It's not for me to post another mans research.
I'm just showing how the board is altered

[tzsteve]

I have one controller fitted and a spare

So I have a couple of spare switches left over from the ones I bought,
Free to uk members if any body wants them

I don't like holding on to stuff I'll never use as my play pen is cluttered enough as it is

[Fotis]

Thanks old biker for posting the pictures and starting this thread.
Please find below the setting for the switches:
A number means position set to ON while a dash is OFF

These are for the second group of 4 switches which controls the opening RPM

1 2 3 4.......3600
- 2 3 4........3900
- - 3 4.........4320
- 2 - 4.........4860
1 - - 4.........5100
- - - 4..........5400
1 2 3 -........5640
- 2 3 -.........5880
- - 3 -..........6420
1 2 - -.........6540
1 - 3 -.........6720
- 2 - -..........6840
1 - - -..........7140

These are the next group of 4 switches controlling the fully open position
1 2 3 4.........6690
- 2 3 4.........6870
1 - 3 4.........7260
- - 3 4.........7380
- 2 - 4.........7740
1 - - 4.........8100
- - - 4.........8400
1 2 3 -.........8680
- 2 3 -.........8880
- - 3 -.........9260
1 2 - -.........9660
1 - 3 -.........9860
- 2 - -........10050
1 - - -........10350

In the first group of switches you can control the number of cylinders and the time it needs to fully open.

So pin 2 when its on it adds 0.96 seconds to the movement.
Pin 4 sets it to single or twin cylinder. off for a twin and on for a single

The last group of switches control the rotation of the pulley

_ _ _ _      66
1 _ _ _      68
_ 2 _ _      70
1 2 _ _      71
_ _ 3 _      74
1 _ 3 _      76
_ 2 3 _      79
1 2 3 _      81
_ _ _ 4      82
1 _ _ 4      85
_ 2 _ 4      86
1 2 _ 4      88
_ _ 3 4      91
1 _ 3 4      92
_ 2 3 4      95
1 2 3 4      97

[tzsteve]

So on the big chip the 12 pins reading left to right are numbered 1 to 12;
Pin 1 to 4 are for the start opening rpm,
Pins 5 to 8 are the finish opening rpm,
Pins 9 to 12 are the angle at maximum opening

And the four pins to the left separated by a small distance are numbered 1 to 4 reading left to right
Pin 2 adds a small delay to opening and pin 4 sets it as single or twin

I was impressed when you made the original post
I imagine it took many hours to get all the data together

[Mojoracinguk]

Very Interesting, I'm a long way from firing the bike up, but when it is, I would love to have more control over how the engine feels.
Mine used to run a static advance on the ignition so made peak power around 11K back in 2002.
It had a real big dip in power from 9 to 10K....maybe the Pv's where opening to fast, the 0.96 delay may help fill this hole?
 I think being able to adjust the PV timing may very well make it even nicer to ride.

Thanks again

[tzsteve]

peak power at 11000 rpm

that's peak power at the red line

[James P]

Thanks old biker for posting the pictures and starting this thread.
Please find below the setting for the switches:
A number means position set to ON while a dash is OFF

So on the big chip the 12 pins reading left to right are numbered 1 to 12;
Pin 1 to 4 are for the start opening rpm,
Pins 5 to 8 are the finish opening rpm,
Pins 9 to 12 are the angle at maximum opening

And the four pins to the left separated by a small distance are numbered 1 to 4 reading left to right
Pin 2 adds a small delay to opening and pin 4 sets it as single or twin

I was impressed when you made the original post
I imagine it took many hours to get all the data together

Thanks to you both for posting the extra info . Unfortunately, I haven't got the engine in the bike at the moment, so cannot check any of the data for myself. Therefore, I will rely on your experience and expertise for further details as follows:
To summarise the operation of the PV controller with the standard setting: The PV will begin to open at 5640rpm and will open no further once 10050rpm is reached, the maximum opening angle being 86 degrees.

There seems to be some discrepancy concerning the PV fully-open angle:
Range 1: 30.6 - 46.7 degrees (Old Biker)
Range 2: 66 - 97 degrees (Fotis)

Fotis' figures are approximately double those of Old Biker. Where is the starting/reference point of the opening angle (i.e. 0 degrees)? Are the angles measured on the servomotor pulley or on the cylinder/PV pulley?

The fact that the PV controller allows a 'fully-open' angle of 97 degrees must mean that the PV will never be fully open when using the standard setting. Therefore, (I presume) when setting the fully-open position of the PV using the cable adjustment, it will never achieve this position when riding the bike (with the standard setting of 86 degrees). If using the selector switches to change the opening angle, is the 97 degree setting the real fully-open position?

Re performance ; top end seems to be as standard,
I have not been on the motorway testing it,

I just find it a more civilised ride with the power valves opening the way I have them,
I only use this for riding around town,
the way it is now is better for me.
I'm not racing it and the cylinders are still standard.

It seems like your altered setting makes the engine more tractable. Have you noticed any difference in fuel consumption? I appreciate that this may depend on how you ride the bike, but I am interested to know your opinion or impression.

Could you also please confirm your altered settings? I assume that beginning-to-open is now at 5100rpm (1--4), which is 540rpm less than the standard 5640rpm (123-). However, it seems impossible to extend the fully-open speed by 500rpm (i.e. to 10550rpm). According to the published figures, 10350rpm (an increase of 300rpm) seems to be the maximum achievable (5---). I presume your fully-open angle is now 88 degrees (12-4).

Any further info/advice will be welcome .


Thanks again & regards,
James

[tzsteve]

some info that I found
http://bdkraceeng.co.uk/Bike2.html
http://www.2t-racelab.com/2013/05/ypvs-settings.html

there is more which I cant find on the web  at the moment
its in a really useful pdf on the net

[tzsteve]

you are correct
yes I made a mistake on my numbers
double checking
I have the valves opening at 5444,  and fully open at 10204  rpm
thanks for finding my error



so the standard tzr250 / 1KT is set with links
1,2,3,0-----0,6,0,0-----0,10,0,12     
if you get my drift

so that's
opening starts at  5699 rpm
fully open is at 9951   rpm
and the standard angle at fully open is  41.3 deg

I think that's right

[Fotis]

My angles are at servo pulley.

For my stock 1kt i lowered the end rpm from 10500 to approx 9000 and it made a huge difference as the stock exhausts peak around 9300rpm

[Mojoracinguk]

peak power at 11000 rpm

that's peak power at the red line

Yup. Was my track engine. Swarbick pipes, they seemed to need high rpm to peak.

I'm going to run them on this road bike I'm building. So will keep this revy engine.  The dyno curve was interesting

[tzsteve]

I'll bet it was fun to ride,
Too exciting for me,
At my age I probably have brittle bones

[James P]

Thanks for the follow-ups everyone.

I now realise that the different people who have made all of these measurements for themselves and published them have obtained slightly different results. Without knowing the exact details of each set-up, I presume the slightly different engine speeds may have something to do with tacho or waveform generator calibration...and/or other factors perhaps.

It is still unclear how (and from which datum) the opening angle is measured, but Fotis' statement concerning measurement at the servomotor pulley provides a good starting point. Even though my engine is out at the moment, the servomotor is still installed. I should therefore be able to measure the angle between fully open and fully closed by connecting a 12V DC supply source to the battery terminals (my bike only has a capacitor box, no battery) and switching the ignition on.

Regards,
James