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fairing repair glue ...ABS glue

Started by nitro, March 15, 2023, 05:12:03 AM

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nitro

anyone ever have any luck finding an adhesive or glue to weld /repair the lowers , abs cement or similar 

i did a search on the page and found nothing ....thanks all

Steveog

It requires a technique I can't describe, but get some super-glue and baking soda. Then go to You Tube to see how it all works.

This substance needs to be out of sight on your repair, but I've been using it for 20 years.

No. I didn't invent this bonding compound, but did figure out how to use it to repair broken plastic years ago.

There are other technique to repair plastic, but this is the easiest.

Just don't breathe the fumes.

Good Luck

Steve
Brief, fleeting Glory. Which of itself cannot last, but while it does is the best game of all.

Pinarellodave

Use the stuff RZ500 put us onto - PLASTEX - it works pretty well from my recent experience with it.

https://www.plastex.com.au

You'll need to find a local supplier

Dave

yanw

Ghetto, not pro, but I heat zig-zags of wire, melt them in over the cracks, trim when cool and then top/seal with bicarb and superglue (panel backs obviously...). It stops cracks reforming when you fill them with fine-filler and base/top coat the nice side.

Pics after melting on and then after trimming and before bicarb/superglue. 1996 ThunderCat top fairing, fixing on the cheap (they sell for buttons, it's shocking).

Mojoracinguk

I use 3d printing abs filament and acetone mixed into a glue. There are lots of ratios on the net depending what you want to do with it.

The consistency I use is akin to pva glue.

To make it, I put the acetone in an old nail varnish pot. They are  usually acetone ressistant, as nail varnish used to contain acetone irc. Then put in the required mass of abs filament. It disolves over a few hours and leaves you with a nice glue when mixed. The nail varnish pot will keep the acetone from evaporating and you can store it for a few months easily.

I've used it to stop cracks but also it's good for sticking on parts. I printed off some missing tabs for the rear panels.

This worked on a little ts125 too. I'll try and find a pic of that.


totty79

I use a hot stapler, similar to the wire approach above, normally from the back and I also melt the plastic over them with a different attachment on the stapler to fully embed them in the plastic. I then V grove the rest of the join and melt a strip into it - it can be really tricky to melt it into the surrounding plastic to get a good join, I suspect one of the glue methods would be better for that part of the job.

I did a CCM headlight cowl recently, I planned to stabilise with staples then use Plastex but it had gone off and set solid in the bottle, so buy when needed not to keep on the shelf.



Francoe

Try or search MEK
Methylethyleketone its a capillary glue.

Francoe

If not, hot air gun feeding an ABS stick into a weld.

Mojoracinguk

I had to make a few MEK resistant products fro work.....not many plastics hold up to it  :o .

So in some respects it'll work like acetone in dissolving abs fairings, but I was under the impression MEK was a little more harsh on people. Not that acetone or gasoline for that matter is safe to handle carelessly, but obviously we, as enthusiast do use lots of chems in keeping our beloved machnes running. So in short, please take reasonable precaution when handling chemicals , or melting plastics (-P)

Steveog

Quote from: Mojoracinguk on March 17, 2023, 12:04:41 AM
Not that acetone or gasoline for that matter is safe to handle carelessly,

Acetone or gasoline can be inhaled (indirectly) without obvious discomfort. Not recommended, but nothing like a direct hit of Super-Glue and Baking Soda. Think of snorting Chinese mustard times 10 and you're close.

We wore masks for Covid, the same concerned reasoning should apply for all the "Warning Labels" on all MDS chemicals.

Steve
Brief, fleeting Glory. Which of itself cannot last, but while it does is the best game of all.

bulldogboy

#11
Before and after using JB weld and fine reinforcing mesh on the back, and a donor section, not 100% pro job, but a good D.I.Y fix, and very strong, remember to drill a tiny hole at the very end of any cracks to prevent further travel.

rz500guy

Plastex is the only thing I use. It is nice because it is same material and can be purchased in different colors. Take your time and the repair will not even be noticeable. I have built new parts, cut two bad fairings in half and made a good one, and molded new tabs. I will never use anything else.