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Topic: Clutch?< Next Oldest | Next Newest >
Yuri Offline





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Posted: May 19 2008,18:36 QUOTE

I have got new fiber plats in
now with the kit cdi and properly sealed pipes the clutch is sliping
wat can i do to make it stop
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jools Offline





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Posted: May 20 2008,00:01 QUOTE

Contact gbowie

he has a source for heavy duty springs


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Yuri Offline





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Posted: May 20 2008,04:05 QUOTE

Thank you
i will call him
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gbowie Offline
Two stroke spirit




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Posted: May 20 2008,20:10 QUOTE

Interesting one this! I had clutch slip problems with the TZ a few months ago and bought a complete new clutch pack (steel and fibre plates ) including the two soft outer fibre plates which run against the aluminium, the springs were well within spec. according to the manual, and the clutch still slipped. The problem was overcome by fitting alternate tzr springs (3 TZ and 3 TZR )
One explanation was that the steel plates should have been washed in a solvent before fitting as they were probably coated with some form of wax from the factory to prevent corrosion ???
I have never seen an SP in the flesh, I know it has a dry clutch with, I think 5 springs, the TZ has 6.
The TZ and TZR springs are interchangable...Can anyone tell me how the SP springs compare to the TZR strength wise ?
Yuri may just need to fit a few TZR springs to the pack to fix the problem without resorting to my wrist breaking homemade springs.


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Warwickb Offline





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Posted: May 21 2008,10:47 QUOTE

The dry clutch springs are both shorter and softer than the wet clutch ones, but the dry clutch deosn't seem particularly prone to slipping. The big oil seal that seperates the external clutch from the crankcases is a possible weak point though. I've seen them leak (allowing oil onto the plates) on a couple of SPs, so that might be worth investigating?

It'd be worth stripping and rebuilding the clutch (a very quick job with the dry clutch) and checking the fibre plates for wear and replacing them if the are worn beyond the service limit. If you do this, Yuri, note the position of plate with the little rubber dampers. Plates can be purchased seperately and are not madly expensive - though the one with the dampers is quite a bit more expensive - and doesn't come with the rubbers so use the ones from the old 'damper' plate or buy these at the same time as the plate/s if you need to replace that one.

It might also be worth trying fitting washers between the spring bolt head and the spring to creat a little pre-load on the spring. As noted above, The wet clutch springs are quite a bit longer than the dry clutch springs (and stiffer) but I don't know if fitting these would work as a fix or whether they would just become coil bound? Never tried it as I've never had a problem with the dry clutch other than the one with the large crankcase cover seal mentioned above.

Good luck

Wb


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Yuri Offline





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Posted: May 21 2008,15:15 QUOTE

The fiber plates are new i have a bit of oil on them from the spit back of the carbs runing open air box and primix
do you think it will make it slip
wat is the best to cleen the plates
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Warwickb Offline





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Posted: May 21 2008,16:09 QUOTE

I doubt the bit of premix mist is your problem, but you should be able to buy some clutch cleaner in a can from an auto parts store if you want to claen them properly.

When you were putting the pressure plate back on did you put it on in the right place? It has to line up with the plates/basket/hub so that when fitted it's surface is absolutely biutted up to the outer on of the plates plate - and it can only do this in one of the five or six different degrees of rotation. I think there's a mark to line it up, but I've never worked it out and so just just slide it on and if it doesn't slide fully home (ie tightly up against the outer plate), move it around to the next degree of rotation that it will slide on and try again til it's right. Yeah, very lazy, lol

If that's OK, check that the cable is adjusted correctly to leave a little slack at the lever and that the spring bolts are wound fully home - or consider trying some spacer washers as noted above. Is it slipping on pull away or when you hit the powerband? Or both?


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Yuri Offline





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Posted: May 21 2008,16:54 QUOTE

The clutch lever has a bit slack
and the clutch is line up with the steel plates
it is sliping on power band
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Warwickb Offline





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Posted: May 21 2008,18:24 QUOTE

Then the logical suspect would be the springs. Try some washers. It'll only take 10 mins to slip some on. If that cures or improves it then it'd be worth investing in new springs. They are not expensive. Part number is 90501-246G8 if you dont have it. You need to order 5 seperaetly as they don't come as a set.

Only other thing is to ensure you have the right number of plates and they are in the right order. It's easy to check this with the diagrams in the workshop manual  - or even the parts book.


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jamietzr250r Offline





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Posted: May 21 2008,19:10 QUOTE

might be a silly question but what oil are you using?, the reason is that a fully synthetic gear box oil can (as does) lead to slipping. you really need to use a very good mineral based oil.
(information gained from my tuner (the rd80/125 hybrid) who has come across this problem with MX bikes, solved it by putting mineral based oil back in after rebuilds, bizarre but true)


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IF YOU HAVEN'T FALLEN OFF YET THEN YOU WEREN'T GOING FAST ENOUGH.

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Warwickb Offline





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Posted: May 21 2008,22:22 QUOTE

This is the SP models' dry clutch we are talking about Jamie. It sits outside the motor, seperated from the oil by a big oil seal, the last thing the dry clutch wants is oil of any kind anywhere near it :D

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jools Offline





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Posted: May 21 2008,22:41 QUOTE

I used Motul gearbox oil in my racers without any problems.
I think that is synthetic ?
One trick is to have the surface of the steel plates lightly sand blasted to roughen up the surface. Not too much mind as they will wear the fibre plates out too quickly  :p


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jamietzr250r Offline





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Posted: May 25 2008,20:22 QUOTE

Quote (Warwickb @ May 21 2008,21:22)
This is the SP models' dry clutch we are talking about Jamie. It sits outside the motor, seperated from the oil by a big oil seal, the last thing the dry clutch wants is oil of any kind anywhere near it :D

only tring to help  :( (maybe i need to learn to read!)


--------------
IF YOU HAVEN'T FALLEN OFF YET THEN YOU WEREN'T GOING FAST ENOUGH.

tzr250r 3xv1 (on road)
rd80/125 lc hybrid (nearly)
rd125lc mk2 (project)
tzr50r(4eu)7.2ps (project)
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Warwickb Offline





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Posted: May 25 2008,21:37 QUOTE

Lol. It was a fair point Jamie. And one that I've heard from several other sources too, so may well be relevant on wet clutch motors? Never experienced it myself though. I generally run Motul Transoil in gearboxes (inc' 3XV) and have never had any slipping issues caused by the oil. Perhaps the more slippery synth oil just exacerbates an already pretty badly worn/borderline clutch or something? Or maybe it's people using car oil in wet clutch bike gearboxes or something like that? Dunno. Like I say, I've heard about it but not experienced it.  

Cheers

Wb


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13 replies since May 19 2008,18:36 < Next Oldest | Next Newest >

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