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kqtzr Group: Members Posts: 92 Joined: Mar. 2007 Posted: July 13 2008,19:21 Hi guys, 1st a big hand for Peter finding the SP flanges for me & arriving on my door step yesterday....exellent. Looks like 2 problems left to solve...... #1...I have gaskets that will fit the outside part of the flange, but it looks like I need gaskets for the inside where the flange meets the cylinder other wise there is fairly large cresent shaped gap as you can see in the 2nd picture. Anyone have a clue on part #? 2nd...Now getting my Nikons to connect. There is no spicket on the SP flanges....can I join the flanges I have for the Nikons to the SP ones (mine are about the same thickness as the SP ones) so I can connect the pipes or is that crazy. So close Thanks guys. Kevin Back to top

Warwickb Group: Members Posts: 1911 Joined: Sep. 2003 Posted: July 13 2008,19:55 They are just a common type wound tin gasket with an asbestos-alike facing. Part number is 3XV-14613-10, but if you measure up the inside and outside dimensions of the flange lip and the barrel relief and the depth of gasket required, you will probably be able to order some pattern ones in the right size from a general bike spares place. A little bit more of a hassle, but I'd imagine much quicker than ordering some oem ones if you are in a hurry to get them fitted? Can't follow you fitment problem though? With the studs in the barrels, simply slide on the SP flange pieces with both gaskets in place either side of it and then slide the Nikon flange onto the stud too and bolt it all up. Attach the pipes with the springs in the normal way, with a good smear of pipe sealant on the pipe stub/flange. You may have to slot the rear mount of the lower cyl' pipe a bit more, or even cut it off, move it a little and re-weld as the extra flanges push the pipe a bit further back? Though to be honest you might be better off cutting the appropriate amount from the barrel end of the pipes as the Nikons are bit long for good power in any case. If you don't cut the pipes, the upper cyl pipe will probably fit OK, but may just need the rear mount slotting a little bit? Luck Wb -------------- A garage overflowing with old stinkers... Back to top

slinger Group: Members Posts: 182 Joined: June 2008 Posted: July 13 2008,20:11 Just fitted some Nikkons myself and found that if you leave the copper gasket out they fit fine. So what I did was use some high temp silicone on the face and then clamped it up. I used to use high temp silicone on the four stroke singles to stop the popping in the exhaust on the over run and they run a lot hotter than a two smoke and worked a treat. Glyn Back to top

Warwickb Group: Members Posts: 1911 Joined: Sep. 2003 Posted: July 13 2008,20:48 Ah, of course, the old Nikon flange dilemma. Ages since I've used any. I never had any luck with sealant instead of a gasket - they always seemd to leak a bit. A DIY gasket ring cut from 1mm gasket paper coupled with a bit of sealant seemed to work  much better though, so if they leak you might try that, Slinger?. If you use the proper gasket, the flange plates tend to bend if you overtighten them. a suitable thickness spacer welded to the flange plate can get round this problem too though and allows you to use the oem gasket without bowing the plate when you tighten it. I can't believe Mr. Nikon charges 400 quid for 'em and the bloody flanges don't even fit . I'm guessing that when he designed them to fit the bike was sans gaskets or something? But surely enough people must have pointed out this problem to him? -------------- A garage overflowing with old stinkers... Back to top

kqtzr Group: Members Posts: 92 Joined: Mar. 2007 Posted: July 13 2008,22:05 Thanks guys. Hopefully have this sorted by Thursday....racing next weekend. Kevin. Back to top

slinger Group: Members Posts: 182 Joined: June 2008 Posted: July 13 2008,22:19 I'll try that gasket paper Warwick see how it works. Just trying to get the bike ready for Mallory. Glyn Back to top

kqtzr Group: Members Posts: 92 Joined: Mar. 2007 Posted: Aug. 03 2008,19:45 Hi guys, still....trying to get it together. Warwick, your idea on the gasket worked, sourced a gasket that was close & shaved it down to fit. Thanks  So yesterday I finaly had the whole day (& all the parts.....I thought) to do the change over to get it ready for next weekend (races) I found that I'm blocked again     . The (end caps) for the R drum PV's is different than the end cap for the SP drum PV  I checked on Alex's great site on the part #'s & confermed they are different. The part# I need is 3XV-1131F-10. Anyone??? Kevin. Back to top

Warwickb Group: Members Posts: 1911 Joined: Sep. 2003 Posted: Aug. 03 2008,20:21 The powervalves themselves are slightly different too. Which combination of parts are you trying to use? I reckon it would be possible to adapt the drum type R powervalves and caps to fit the SP cyls though. From memory the only real difference in the end caps is that the R ones have a little 'stop' on them that sticks into the cylinder, whereas the SP ones don't? Might it be possible to just grind the stop part off the R ones if you are using SP Powervalves? Though not knowing exactly what parts you have to hand makes it difficult to answer really. Do you have a picture of the parts you have to hand? -------------- A garage overflowing with old stinkers... Back to top

kqtzr Group: Members Posts: 92 Joined: Mar. 2007 Posted: Aug. 03 2008,22:25 Hi Warwick, you're right, it looks like the only difference is the R cap has a stop & one for the SP PV's would not. Also see what you're saying about grinding them down to fit, but.....scares me a bit to do so, once it's off it can't go back on. I plan on once everything is switched over to sell the R cylinders & bits & would like as much as possible to keep all the right bits together. But if the ones I need can't be found then last ditch effort is getting out the grinder. In the pic obviously the shinny one is the SP & the one that needs cleaned is the R. You can see the gasket I modified to fit in place on the SP cyl. I got the part # I need from Alex's site from the 3XV2 p/manual. Maybe Peter could find them??? I've been holding on to a new top end for a bit hoping to sell unused with the R cyl's but for now & next race I'm just going to use them until I get the SP stuff in hand    I did go a few races beyond the maintenence sched hoping to get the SP's sorted. I have them, may as well use them (safer than sorry...you know) Kevin. Back to top

Warwickb Group: Members Posts: 1911 Joined: Sep. 2003 Posted: Aug. 03 2008,22:54 If you want the pukka SP ones, I can't see why any Yamaha dealer in the US can't order them for you directly with the part numbers? That's what we do in the UK. If the US dealers can't/won't, then maybe try Rik at Accu products or the chaps at RS Cycles? No idea how much the caps retail at though.  Note that the little circular end cap gasket/seal is a seperate part too. Looks like you are missing the ali sleeve and the little O ring that goes underneath it on that SP powervalve as well, so you may need to order those too if you don't want to pillage the R ones? (it should be the same as the R one on the left side as you look at it in the pic). Parts book will give you the numbers. -------------- A garage overflowing with old stinkers... Back to top

kqtzr Group: Members Posts: 92 Joined: Mar. 2007 Posted: Aug. 04 2008,00:11 So far Yam dealer here 99 out 100 anything starting with 3XV in part# won't even go in their computer (one guy last year had a nack for the computer or had more brains than the other got a few small things for me but he's not there anymore) Ric, I'm still waiting on a return phone call or email at least from my 4 phone calls & 3 emails from 2 months ago......& steve at RSC has been trying to order all of the SP part # I've been looking for for the last4-5 months (carb stuff, & this stuff) but no luck, he get told 'out of stock & no longer made'. he's had great success with the 3XV R stuff for years though. Warwick the other little bits you mention I don't mind taking them off & using, My thinking is they are the same for many models so most likely easier to get. Kev. Back to top

jools Group: Members Posts: 1221 Joined: Oct. 2005 Posted: Aug. 04 2008,03:13 Kev as a last resort flick a request for quote with part numbers here: http://www.jp-parts.com/about-us/about-us2.html he might be able to help..................worth a try. Jools -------------- "The only thing worse than being talked about is not being talked about...." oscar Wilde Back to top

kqtzr Group: Members Posts: 92 Joined: Mar. 2007 Posted: Aug. 05 2008,02:24 Thanks Jools, emailed them yesterday (Sunday...Wow) they responded today (Wow) but unfortunately they can't get them. Kev. Back to top

Warwickb Group: Members Posts: 1911 Joined: Sep. 2003 Posted: Aug. 05 2008,11:51 You could always just cut the R ones if they are adaptable to the job? They look to be identical but for the preotruding stop, but I've not measuerd one closely. Then you could replace the R ones later? I'd think R ones will be a lot easier to find than SP ones PS. Don't forget that you need to seperate the SP powervalves to install them in the cylinder - you can't just wiggle them in like the R ones. -------------- A garage overflowing with old stinkers... Back to top

kqtzr Group: Members Posts: 92 Joined: Mar. 2007 Posted: Aug. 07 2008,22:25 My thinking too Warwick about cutting the R ones, & I tried fitting them to the SP cyl's & look to fit perfect. Peter is going to take a look for me to see if he can source them in Japan. I'm going to play it safe for this weekend & just run the R cyl's with fresh top end. 3 weeks to the next race so in a couple weeks if there's no luck with the SP ones......there'll be some cutting & grinding going on. Oh.....& yes the SP PV's not going in in one peice  that took a few min. to figure out   I'll keep you updated, looking forward to the races this weekend..... Kevin. Back to top

kqtzr Group: Members Posts: 92 Joined: Mar. 2007 Posted: Aug. 16 2008,17:36 OK...so it looks like no luck on getting the (PV end caps) for the SP cylinders & it's time to sacrifice the std R ones. I think I'll bring them to the machine shop down the road to do it since they have much better tools & know what they're doing a lot more than I. The race weekend went well....well better than the better than the one before that, I had a little low side fall off, everything ok though, a little bending things back into place, a little fiberglass patching & we're almost as good as new . I did get a 3rd place in Ultra light Superbike though this time. 2nd was 4 tenths ahead of me....oh to have one more lap &   I have 2 'just in case questions' if anyone could confirm for me. ...I'm puting on new '91 SP cylinders (O ring gaskets) with my '92 R heads (metal gaskets) 1. Is the head nuts torque the same? (22 Nm) 2. Would you still use a little yamabound with the O rings? Thanks. Kevin. Back to top

Warwickb Group: Members Posts: 1911 Joined: Sep. 2003 Posted: Aug. 16 2008,18:17 Sounds like things are going well. good stuff, kevin. SP head nuts torque value is 2.2kg/m according to the manual (not sure if that's the same as 22nm?). Any reason you're not using the SP heads? Which pistons are you using? Personally I wouldn't bother with the Yamabond if the O rings are new, but I often use a bit when re-using old ones, so you might want to use a thin smear for reassurance? Though i suspect I'm a biot over cautious here. I've never had any leaks anyhow. Cheers Wb -------------- A garage overflowing with old stinkers... Back to top

kqtzr Group: Members Posts: 92 Joined: Mar. 2007 Posted: Aug. 16 2008,18:44 Thanks Warwick, yep 2.2 kg/m = 22Nm (I'd rather be a bit over cautious than sorry myself, been sorry enough). I'm not using the SP heads because my connection ended with Tom Nagaoka before we could finish getting all the parts for the upgrade. But he did say I could use my heads with these cylinders before we lost contact. But as you can tell I still had a lot of questions I would have asked him. & once again I need to say this site is fantastic & the people are 1st class for sharing thier knowledge & ideas!!! Kevin. Oh, I will be using F3 pistons (single ring) also sourced for Tom. Back to top

Warwickb Group: Members Posts: 1911 Joined: Sep. 2003 Posted: Aug. 16 2008,19:27 Hmmm... If those are flat-topped SP type pistons (I'd assume they are), you'll be running greater head vol and squish than with the dome topped R pistons, so you won't really get any advantage from using them (and quite possibly a performance loss due to the larger head vol and squish - which tends to be pretty big on stock R heads in any case). You might be better using R pistons with the R heads, and saving the special ones til you have some matching SP heads? Alternativley it might be a good move to have the heads skimmed a bit to get the squish and head vol' down to a good level for a track bike? -------------- A garage overflowing with old stinkers... Back to top

kqtzr Group: Members Posts: 92 Joined: Mar. 2007 Posted: Aug. 16 2008,22:06 I'm a bit confused, I've been running the flat top pistons (2 rings) 3XV-11631-31-95 since Stan Stevens did a stage 2 on the R cyl's & heads. Is there an easy way to measure the volume & I can check it? What sould it be? kevin. Back to top

Warwickb Group: Members Posts: 1911 Joined: Sep. 2003 Posted: Aug. 17 2008,00:38 Arent't those SPR pistons with the stacked (one directly on top of the other) ring pegs? Not ideal on two counts if so really, as not only are they flat topped, but also the ring pegs will be running over the rear transfer port window (though in truth I've run TZ pistons which also do this with no ill effects). Checking the head volume is a slightly tricky and messy affair and really can only be satisfactorily done with the motor out - and you need a good burette and a degree of skill to do it too really.  Ideally you want to seal the rings/bore with a little grease (to stop the oil running past), take the piston to TDC and then slowly fill teh head from a burette  through the plug hole with the cylinder perfectly 'upright' (you need to get the plug hole volume measurement first). Once the top end is filled with oil flush to the top of the plug hole, the amount that has left the burette - minus the plug hole vol - is your head volume. A nicely safe figure to use would be 10cc. If skimming the heads to get the volume down you don't want to let the squish go below about .8mm (.9 to 1mm would be safer). To be honest though, unless you are confident that you can measure this with absolute accuracy - and have the facilities to skim the head etc. it is probably best left to a tuning shop really.   As stock 3XV squishes tend to be on the generous side (1.5 mm is not uncommon), I'd think you could take a bit off the face of the head without problem (measure the squish with solder first though and don't remove so much that you let it go below .8) As before though, unless you are confident about doing it I would take it to someone who is (Martin77 is my weights and measures man). The consequences of getting it wrong can be quite catastrophic. You should be able to just sling R pistons (3XV-11631-00-95) in though without any problem though, and the domed tops will reduce you head volume a touch over the flat topped ones. But with the R heads it won't be enough to cause any problems unless a lot of material has already been skimmed off. On balance I think my advice would be to get this work done by a tuning shop unless you are absoloyely confident that you can do it effectively yourself. Cheers Wb -------------- A garage overflowing with old stinkers... Back to top

kqtzr Group: Members Posts: 92 Joined: Mar. 2007 Posted: Aug. 17 2008,15:08 Got the gist of it Warwick....but really not up for pulling the motor. But sounds like from the info that I'm surely on the safe side of things (maybe a little too much?) Sooo...do you think that I won't get any power gains from useing the SP cylinders with my heads & pistons I have or just not get it's full potential??? ANYONE have '91 SP heads they are willing to part with???   Kevin. Back to top

Warwickb Group: Members Posts: 1911 Joined: Sep. 2003 Posted: Aug. 17 2008,16:58 The SP cyls will certainly give you a boost as the porting is far better than the R cyls (even with the Stevens tune I expect - it'd be intersting to measure the differences between Stans mod's and the SP porting really ) You should get mid to high 50s with the -00 cdi - if the Nikons are doing their bit? And you would get more on top of that with a -70 or -80 Cdi I'd think. It's impossible to comment with absolute certainty on the safety of the heads though without measurements (you can measure the squish without taking the motor out, so that might be a good idea?. I'd suspect you'll be fine though. If you do put SP heads on later (I don't think the SP heads will give any real noticeable gain over the R heads on your set-up myself though) you will need to run SP (or TZ pistons) as I suspect R pistons might make the squish a bit tight - or even hit the head perhaps?     Cheers Wb -------------- A garage overflowing with old stinkers... Back to top

Mr stinkwheels Group: Members Posts: 206 Joined: May 2006 Posted: Aug. 18 2008,01:08 I have not actually seen any SP heads in the flesh, but is it not possible to have the R heads machined to the same spec as the Sp heads? My old YPVS 350 race engine had the heads machined out to the same spec as the TZ equivelant motor a G model i think. Just an idea. Hope this helps Martin. Back to top

Warwickb Group: Members Posts: 1911 Joined: Sep. 2003 Posted: Aug. 18 2008,11:32 I don't think it'd be easily do-able as the SP has a wider, 2 angle cut squish area and a smaller deeper combustion chamber (very similar to TZ heads of the era, but with a greater volume). You could get R heads welded up and then re-machined to replicate them I'd imagine, but I'm not sure it'd be worth the trouble/expense myself, unless you were able to spend an awful lot of time on refining the set-up to exploit any potential advantage.  With the later 6 stud cyls, you could probably run TZ heads, but you'd be into a world of avgas and detonation counters then I'd think... Cheers Wb -------------- A garage overflowing with old stinkers... Back to top

kqtzr Group: Members Posts: 92 Joined: Mar. 2007 Posted: Aug. 19 2008,04:07 Thanks guys for the input. I'm going to go ahead with the change, some gain is better than no gain.....right. I can check the squish, what do you guys recommend?? Getting the the R heads reworked to suit although do-able seems a bit expencive $ & time. Warwick I have the 70 CDI & sugo harness, the 36 carbs & the 3XV7 bottom end. (w/the Nikons) I also would love to get some better pipes . I've read on this site of a few good candidates...(Martin ) Thanks again guys. Kevin. Back to top

Warwickb Group: Members Posts: 1911 Joined: Sep. 2003 Posted: Aug. 19 2008,12:02 As I said earlier, I'd personally go for about .9 to 1mm on the squish. Some would go for about .8. Don't forget though that you'll be losing about .2 in any case by not running the R head gasket. Did Stan skim the head at all too? If so you may find that without the gasket the squish is pretty close already. All you can do really though is button everything down as it is going to be run and then check the squish with solder or whatever (some prefer a ring of modelling clay as you get a good imprint of the whole squish area). This will allow you to work out how much you need removing from the face. Don't forget though that skimming the heads will reduce your head volume too and it is always wise to keep an eye on that, so measuring the head vol' properly and not just the squish would certainly be the best approach. I'd expect your main gains to be from the SP cyls, not the heads, so I wouldn't worry about not having the SP heads too much myself.  It would be useful to get it on the dyno once you have it built up and running to see where you are with it I'd think. Cheers Wb -------------- A garage overflowing with old stinkers... Back to top

redandblue Group: Members Posts: 95 Joined: Oct. 2005 Posted: Aug. 19 2008,22:13 Kevin, if you are interested, take a look on my 3XV9-RS tuning. Here. -------------- 2MA, 3MA3 black, 3MA3 white, 3XV6, 3XV7, 3XV9, 5KE2 my site: http://www.pure-2-stroke-spirit.info my forum: http://forum.tzr-scene.info German TZR Forum Back to top

jools Group: Members Posts: 1221 Joined: Oct. 2005 Posted: Aug. 20 2008,04:42 Alex what settings are you using on the 32mm carbs - needles, nozzles, main jets, pilots, power jets cutaways etc ? Jools -------------- "The only thing worse than being talked about is not being talked about...." oscar Wilde Back to top

redandblue Group: Members Posts: 95 Joined: Oct. 2005 Posted: Aug. 20 2008,18:59 Look here. Base Setup, before dyno! Regards Alex -------------- 2MA, 3MA3 black, 3MA3 white, 3XV6, 3XV7, 3XV9, 5KE2 my site: http://www.pure-2-stroke-spirit.info my forum: http://forum.tzr-scene.info German TZR Forum Back to top

Warwickb Group: Members Posts: 1911 Joined: Sep. 2003 Posted: Aug. 21 2008,14:14 Are those the round bore 93/4 SP carbs, Alex? Or the 32mm oval bores from the SPR? -------------- A garage overflowing with old stinkers... Back to top

redandblue Group: Members Posts: 95 Joined: Oct. 2005 Posted: Aug. 21 2008,15:06 The round ones. -------------- 2MA, 3MA3 black, 3MA3 white, 3XV6, 3XV7, 3XV9, 5KE2 my site: http://www.pure-2-stroke-spirit.info my forum: http://forum.tzr-scene.info German TZR Forum Back to top

jools Group: Members Posts: 1221 Joined: Oct. 2005 Posted: Aug. 23 2008,23:44 I just learned something..........I never realised there were round 32mm carbies.............. Those settings would not be a lot of use to the tri -ovals then. -------------- "The only thing worse than being talked about is not being talked about...." oscar Wilde Back to top

Warwickb Group: Members Posts: 1911 Joined: Sep. 2003 Posted: Aug. 23 2008,23:58 That's the main reason I asked the question Jools . I suspected you were looking for set-up pointers for the 32mm oval ones, but the jetting that Alex listed suggested that his carbs were using the same type of internals as the 36s (could be wrong here of course as I've never seen any of the round SP 32s in the flesh) - It was the '93 and '94 SPs had the round 32s for info. I suspect there may have been a rule change in Jap proddy racing from '93 that stated carbs must be no bigger than 32 or some such which instigated the swap to the smaller carbs? And thus the later oval bores were a way to try to regain the top end performance of the earlier bigger carbs whilst still keeping within the letter of the rules? This is purely speculation on my part, but it kind of makes sense to me Cheers Wb -------------- A garage overflowing with old stinkers... Back to top

redandblue Group: Members Posts: 95 Joined: Oct. 2005 Posted: Aug. 24 2008,23:39 I am using similar settings on the oval SPR carbs of my SP. Alex -------------- 2MA, 3MA3 black, 3MA3 white, 3XV6, 3XV7, 3XV9, 5KE2 my site: http://www.pure-2-stroke-spirit.info my forum: http://forum.tzr-scene.info German TZR Forum Back to top

jools Group: Members Posts: 1221 Joined: Oct. 2005 Posted: Aug. 24 2008,23:49 Alex, where do you get your needles from for these carbs ? -------------- "The only thing worse than being talked about is not being talked about...." oscar Wilde Back to top

Warwickb Group: Members Posts: 1911 Joined: Sep. 2003 Posted: Aug. 24 2008,23:52 And the needle jets -------------- A garage overflowing with old stinkers... Back to top

redandblue Group: Members Posts: 95 Joined: Oct. 2005 Posted: Aug. 25 2008,22:22 The round SP-carbs got the needles and needle jets from the german importer in 1993. Thats a piece of the 64bhp derestriction! Last year my SP with the SPR-carbs got also this similar setup from this man. As far as I know you need to modify the Q8 to fit or you need to use the sugo ones. Sorry, I must ask. Needle jets are available from mikuni and the needle was used in 4DP1 I think. Alex -------------- 2MA, 3MA3 black, 3MA3 white, 3XV6, 3XV7, 3XV9, 5KE2 my site: http://www.pure-2-stroke-spirit.info my forum: http://forum.tzr-scene.info German TZR Forum Back to top

jools Group: Members Posts: 1221 Joined: Oct. 2005 Posted: Aug. 26 2008,03:36 i havn't had any success tracking down needle jets for the SPR 'oval' carbs from mikuni here in Australia so I basically gave up trying. Even the Sugo manual does not list Yamaha parts numbers which would have helped. I had some idea to use the 6EN11 series needles from the TMX35 carbs, as these worked well with the TM36SP carbs, but again have found difficulty in finding a source. The only set up I have for the SPR carbs are those listed in the Sugo manual for the SS spec which just won't let the motor rev. I tried the TM38's from my TZ, jetted down to 270 with 50 P Jets and it started and spun up much better but they need dialling in before I will race it like this. -------------- "The only thing worse than being talked about is not being talked about...." oscar Wilde Back to top

Warwickb Group: Members Posts: 1911 Joined: Sep. 2003 Posted: Aug. 26 2008,12:37 Is there any chance you could check the type of the needle jet you are useing, Alex? The 6FI80-61 needles are no problem to source, but I've not been able to find a source for the SPR 764 type needle jet. I'm wondering if your importer uses or adapts a different type of needle jet? Cheers Wb -------------- A garage overflowing with old stinkers... Back to top

redandblue Group: Members Posts: 95 Joined: Oct. 2005 Posted: Aug. 26 2008,20:55 Sorry, I am completely confused. Julien, forget the Sugo parts, except you will find used ones. Warwick, which needle jet? What is SPR 764? Different type? Setup of my SP, use at own risk: Look here. Regards Alex -------------- 2MA, 3MA3 black, 3MA3 white, 3XV6, 3XV7, 3XV9, 5KE2 my site: http://www.pure-2-stroke-spirit.info my forum: http://forum.tzr-scene.info German TZR Forum Back to top

Warwickb Group: Members Posts: 1911 Joined: Sep. 2003 Posted: Aug. 26 2008,23:06 Yes, I appreciate it must be hard discussing this in English, Alex, but believe me: your English is much better than my German . The needle jet is the brass tube the needle slides into in the carb body (the main jet screws directly into it at the base if it's a one-peice design) Both the SP and SPR use a two peice design, but they are different to each other The SPR carb has a short adapter peice that the jet screws into. The SP one is longer. The needle jet/nozzle itself sits on top of that. Standard SPR size is Q-6 and the series or type mark stamped onto the jet itself is '764'. The smaller SP type of main jet is type/series '610' The picture below will help I think: The upper part on each is the actual jet itself. The SPR one is marked 764 Q-6. The problem we have is that we are unable to find a supplier of this type of jet. It may be possible to adapt the carbs to use the SP type of needle jet, but even if you could get it to fit well, it is still a different design so i don't know if it would work as well as the correct 764 type. Perhaps the nxt time you have the carbs apart for servicing or changes you could take a picture of the parts fitted to help identify which parts the importer fits. I hope you were able to follow all that. I wouldn't have been able to say any of it in German I'm afraid. Ich bin ein Dumkopf Cheers -------------- A garage overflowing with old stinkers... Back to top

redandblue Group: Members Posts: 95 Joined: Oct. 2005 Posted: Aug. 28 2008,20:25 Now I understand the real problem. That is the reason why I don´t want to play with carbs and I don´t have a dyno in my garage.  The man solved the problem a long time ago... Please stand by... Regards Alex -------------- 2MA, 3MA3 black, 3MA3 white, 3XV6, 3XV7, 3XV9, 5KE2 my site: http://www.pure-2-stroke-spirit.info my forum: http://forum.tzr-scene.info German TZR Forum Back to top

redandblue Group: Members Posts: 95 Joined: Oct. 2005 Posted: Dec. 03 2008,01:30 The replicas of the flanges. Sorry Warwick, still not finished. -------------- 2MA, 3MA3 black, 3MA3 white, 3XV6, 3XV7, 3XV9, 5KE2 my site: http://www.pure-2-stroke-spirit.info my forum: http://forum.tzr-scene.info German TZR Forum Back to top

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