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Topic: Sugo problems< Next Oldest | Next Newest >
emil Offline





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Posted: Feb. 03 2008,09:48 QUOTE

recently put my sugo 75 box in the spr, it was Ok to ride except for the big flat spot from 6 to 10 000rpm, but it got rid of the restriction above 10 000rpm which was great.

i decided to take it for a large ish ride,  what a mistake!

the bike was using alot of oil,  a whole tank of in oil in about 150ks, not to mention the huge cloud of motul 710 following me down the highway! there was also oil leaking some where in the engine area which flowed down the exhaust to the back wheel. i only found this out when it got slippery.

i am guessing the sugo box has made the oil pump go crazy? is there any way too restrict how much oil goes through the engine?
or is it because i havent jetted it up right?

ive since put the normal box in and everythings OK.



its hard to see but there was a lot of oil running down the closest exhaust to the back wheel.



and how could i not post a picture of a naked 3XV!!
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Mr stinkwheels Offline





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Posted: Feb. 03 2008,13:11 QUOTE

Hi.
if your oil pump is the cdi opporated type, the sugo box does not have the facility to make it work, as the race set up uses premix, and does away with the pump.

There are several wire changes you need to do to make the sugo box work with the std wire loom.

If you have the cable throttle set up type of oil pump, then you need to set the pump up to the correct marks.

Massive flat spot in the rev range suggests carburation needs looking at, but it could also be it is drowning in 2-stroke oil.

Hope this helps
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Warwickb Offline





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Posted: Feb. 03 2008,14:19 QUOTE

Is it possible to take away all the electrical oil pump gubbins on these and convert to the more simple cable operated pump the earlier model used? If not, then maybe just ditch the pump completely and go the pre-mix route?

Are you running the Sugo carb internals or the stock stuff in the 32mm oval carbs? I'm quite curious as to how the SPR goes with the Sugo Cdi, but without the rest of the race kit (PJ activating loom, the carb parts etc.)

Keep at it. When you get the sugo ignition working with decent pipes (are those Sugo's you have on there?) the results are well worth the effort.

Cheers

Wb


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A garage overflowing with old stinkers...
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Yuri Offline





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Posted: Feb. 03 2008,14:25 QUOTE

i know on my vj23 the race box dus not control the oil solenods then it moves to fully open posision to be safe it can be the to same on a spr
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jools Offline





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Posted: Feb. 04 2008,00:12 QUOTE

The Sugo kit is not designed for road use therefore does not use the oil pump. If you download the manual from

http://www.pure-2-stroke-spirit.info/

you can see the prep required. It may be that the -75 is not designed for the SPR ?? (can't remember) and so may open the guillotine powervalves too early but I wouldn't think you get that hole in the power.

I think you need to sort out the oiling first it could be that the fail mode for the electronic pump is wide open hence the oiling problems.

Don't forget if you premix you will need to go up a size or two on the main jet


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"The only thing worse than being talked about is not being talked about...." oscar Wilde
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emil Offline





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Posted: Feb. 04 2008,09:05 QUOTE

hey everybody, thanks for the replies.

i got the manual and had a good look, seems like i was meant to plug up a few things, maybe thats one of the reasons its so leaky!

as reguards the oil pump, i dont know what type it is (or where it is:), i took a pic of what i though looked like the pump.



id say u are right that the sugo box does not control the pump, the carbs are just stock 32s and the pipes are jackels.

i think i could go premix, probably the easiest way.

i was thinking that maybe if i could run the wires comming from the oil pump to the old cdi, which would fix the oil prob but i would have to work out how to get power to the old cdi aswell. two cdis?

what do u think, worth a shot?
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jools Offline





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Posted: Feb. 04 2008,12:19 QUOTE

I guess its not impossible - but would you want to risk it ?

Its a bit of a closed loop system I'd hazard so its all tied together you would need a speed input of some description plus TPS & it could all go pear shaped if you get it wrong.  :p

premix if you aren't planning too long a run or just carry a bottle of oil with you.


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"The only thing worse than being talked about is not being talked about...." oscar Wilde
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Warwickb Offline





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Posted: Feb. 04 2008,15:27 QUOTE

That looks like a filterto me? The oil pump itself is located on the clutch side engine casing - look under the lower carb airbox.

I tend to agree with jools that it would be unwise to experiment with this stuff if you are not 100% sure of what you are doing - no oil will catastrophically damge your motor very quickly indeed.

Seems to me you have two options:

Convert the oil pump set-up to purely cable operation like the early bikes (operation is therfore not unduly affected by the Sugo CDi: perhaps a slight alteration due to the different PV timing of the Sugo box as there is a PV servo connection to the oil pump. It certainly caused no problems on mine using cable autolube and a sugo Cdi). I cant say though how feasible this would be on the SPR. Sounds 'do-able' using the early bike parts, but I can't say with any certainty, so you'd need to figure it out.

Or, simply remove the pump etc. and go premix at 30:1. You'll use quite a bit more oil than with the autolube if using it mostly on the road, but at least you'll know the motor is getting the oil it needs at high RPM - even if it's getting quite a bit more (and is therefore a bit smokey) than it needs under low loads.

If teh bike is purely for the street I would certainly be looking at the feasibility of option one myself for reasons of oil consumption and pollution. But option 2 would probably be the easiest option.

Cheers

Wb


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A garage overflowing with old stinkers...
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Andy Bush Offline





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Posted: Feb. 04 2008,22:51 QUOTE

The filter you have pictured is part of the revised electronic oil pump circuit found on the later model bikes. There are flimsy solenoids also , attached to the airbox bottom, that break very easily when you try removing the airbox without first noticing they are there..........beleive me !

As has been suggested the only way around this default full oil delevery, is to revert to the cable operated pump found on the earlier bikes............or ditch the lot and run premix ( dont forget to remove all the parts, as the oil pump wont like spinning with no oil , and block off the reed block holes too )

Andy
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