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jools Group: Members Posts: 1221 Joined: Oct. 2005 Posted: Feb. 22 2006,12:18 Thanks for the instruction sheet Warwick. It made it all so simple, the hardest job being getting the new seals in. Just one addition I'd add :- Back off the preload before You start, makes it a lot easier on reassembly and if the lot does shoot you in the face it won't hurt as much !! Just a note on draining the oil, I had already undone the top caps and left them upside down in a washing up bowl for a few days, handy if you aren't in a hurry. Jools -------------- "The only thing worse than being talked about is not being talked about...." oscar Wilde Back to top

Warwickb Group: Members Posts: 1911 Joined: Sep. 2003 Posted: Feb. 22 2006,23:44 NO problem, Jools. I hope you didn't find out about the preload adjusters the hard way. -------------- A garage overflowing with old stinkers... Back to top

jools Group: Members Posts: 1221 Joined: Oct. 2005 Posted: Feb. 23 2006,06:31 Nah, like evrything else I try and work horizontally ! i used my woodwork vice to hold the bottom brackets, helps havin both hands free. -------------- "The only thing worse than being talked about is not being talked about...." oscar Wilde Back to top

ybk Group: Super Administrators Posts: 214 Joined: Mar. 2006 Posted: July 20 2006,05:06 Just browsing some old threads and stumbled on this one. Warwick, this instruction sheet that jools is singing praises about - do you mind redistributing it?   Back to top

jools Group: Members Posts: 1221 Joined: Oct. 2005 Posted: July 20 2006,05:23 I think we need a specific post area for all this information that keeps doing the rounds rather than having to dig it all out again. Is that possible Neil ?? A Tech Data/Procedure area for read only access, similar to the TZ250 site perhaps ? -------------- "The only thing worse than being talked about is not being talked about...." oscar Wilde Back to top

Warwickb Group: Members Posts: 1911 Joined: Sep. 2003 Posted: July 20 2006,11:57 I've Re-Posted in the '3XV Compatible parts list' sticky thread. Rgds Wb -------------- A garage overflowing with old stinkers... Back to top

pdxjim Group: Members Posts: 94 Joined: Oct. 2005 Posted: July 22 2006,22:44 I was under the impression I had to pull the fork legs to change the oil.  Wb's instructions refrence a "drain bolt" accessable after pulling the wheel/axle? Does this mean I can change the fork oil without rremoving the fork legs? Back to top

jools Group: Members Posts: 1221 Joined: Oct. 2005 Posted: July 23 2006,06:09 Its easier if you do pull them i think, unless you are just changing oil. I held mine in a wood vice as its much easier having both hands free. Tricky little job but once you get the hang of it its logical captain. Beam me up scotty !! -------------- "The only thing worse than being talked about is not being talked about...." oscar Wilde Back to top

pdxjim Unregistered Posted: July 23 2006,11:25 I just wanna freshen up the oil. Back to top

Warwickb Group: Members Posts: 1911 Joined: Sep. 2003 Posted: July 23 2006,13:22 Jim, the main problem with  doing it that way is that it's not always easy to get the bolt to screw back in unless you can hold the damper rod to stop it turning while you screw the bolt back in to it. You also need to remove the springs and fully compress the fork leg to set the oil level air gap. Hard work with the forks in the bike Probably better to set aside an afternoon and drop the forks out to do the job properly and get the oil level perfectly right (a rear paddock stand and a car wheel jack under the front of the motor (pipes will have to come off)  will hold the front end up nicely). Replacing the oil will certainly freshen it up a bit, but the air gap setting seems to make quite a difference to the front end 'feel' so it's definitely worth doing it right in my opinion. Oil should be around 357cc's  of light oil (Yam recommend 'Yamaha suspension fluid 01' which I'm told is the same as 5wt oil for cartridge forks, but you might want to use 7.5 or 10 depending on your weight/damping charactersistics preferred) - factory air gap is 116mm from top of fork leg with the spring removed and fork compressed - make sure you pump the fork a few times to circulate the oil before trying to measure the air gap then pump it some more and re-measure till it's a consistent measurement. It's definitley a job worth doing right if you want a really confidence inspiring front end. -------------- A garage overflowing with old stinkers... Back to top

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