neil.nu.archive :: TZR The TZR forum

TZR » Tech » 3XV » Plugs?

[ Track this topic :: Email this topic :: Print this topic ]

youngjon Group: Members Posts: 202 Joined: Mar. 2007 Posted: Dec. 07 2007,18:58 This will no doubt be the first of a flurry of questions. Plugs - do you guys use 9's or 10's? It's just that i've got a box of 10's. Cheers John Back to top

Warwickb Group: Members Posts: 1911 Joined: Sep. 2003 Posted: Dec. 07 2007,19:45 Recomended fitment is BR9ECM, as you may or may not know - it's a short (and relatively expensive) plug. I run full length 10s without anything fouling (bodywork or plugs). I prefer the small electrode type BR10EV or EVX's's, but have also used 'normal' type 10s without issue. If it's stock, you might arguably be better with 9s. But as I say, I've never had any prob's with 10s. Can't see the 10's causing any problems in any case. I'm sure others will offer their own take on plugs too. Is it running yet, then?   Wb -------------- A garage overflowing with old stinkers... Back to top

jools Group: Members Posts: 1221 Joined: Oct. 2005 Posted: Dec. 07 2007,22:37 My race bike is running full NGK Iridium 9's. I should use 10's really but they a pair will last me a season usually -------------- "The only thing worse than being talked about is not being talked about...." oscar Wilde Back to top

youngjon Group: Members Posts: 202 Joined: Mar. 2007 Posted: Dec. 07 2007,22:42 Not yet Warwickb... patience dear boy. Dealing with a very rusty tank right now. And I have discovered a miracle product! It's called Deox C and its an environmentally friendly (if that bothers you) rust remover which you dissolve in water and by gum - it really works. Inside of the tank now looks like its been shot blasted. Brilliant. See here for more info - http://www.bilthamber.com/deoxc.html Tomorrow should be the day it fires up, cancelling out any carbon credits I have earned with the Deox C Back to top

youngjon Group: Members Posts: 202 Joined: Mar. 2007 Posted: Dec. 07 2007,22:48 Quote (jools @ Dec. 07 2007,20:37) My race bike is running full NGK Iridium 9's. Do you rate the iridiums? always just used standard plugs, even in 22,000rpm 100cc kart engines. Maybe I should give them a try. Back to top

Warwickb Group: Members Posts: 1911 Joined: Sep. 2003 Posted: Dec. 07 2007,23:13 Quote (youngjon @ Dec. 07 2007,20:42) Dealing with a very rusty tank right now. And I have discovered a miracle product! It's called Deox C and its an environmentally friendly (if that bothers you) rust remover which you dissolve in water and by gum - it really works. Inside of the tank now looks like its been shot blasted. Brilliant. See here for more info - http://www.bilthamber.com/deoxc.html Tomorrow should be the day it fires up, cancelling out any carbon credits I have earned with the Deox C I'll check it out, thanks. I have a good few tanks that need attention really. And we have a septic tank so I do tend to be quite careful about pouring noxious stuff down the drain in any case. Don't forget to take out and clean the little nylon filters in the carb fuel intake stubs. If that tanks rsuty you can bet they'll be full of crap too and cause fuel starvation at high rev's. Hope it stays dry for you tomorrow then. Let us know how you get on, won't you? Cheers Wb -------------- A garage overflowing with old stinkers... Back to top

youngjon Group: Members Posts: 202 Joined: Mar. 2007 Posted: Dec. 08 2007,00:09 Quite amazing stuff this deox - the rust just floats off in the water. And although i'm not obsessively green, I do make an effort, and it's nice to be able to just tip the residue down the drain. Yep, those little filters are coming out to be replaced by a decent inline jobby that I can see. Did that to the 3ma and have had no problems since. But... the petrol pipes are like bakelite and I don't think I will be able to get any fresh stuff so it may be a quick rev only. Back to top

ybk Group: Super Administrators Posts: 214 Joined: Mar. 2006 Posted: Dec. 08 2007,09:36 Hmm, I've checked the Deox on the net and it seems that it's impressive stuff. Wish I could get it here. (I'm never putting gravel in a tank again!) Back to top

jools Group: Members Posts: 1221 Joined: Oct. 2005 Posted: Dec. 08 2007,10:07 Quote (youngjon @ Dec. 07 2007,20:48) Quote (jools @ Dec. 07 2007,20:37) My race bike is running full NGK Iridium 9's. Do you rate the iridiums? always just used standard plugs, even in 22,000rpm 100cc kart engines. Maybe I should give them a try. Good question, I have never really suffered fouling problems with them and the motor has always been sweet. Then again I have never run standard plugs in it so I can't comment. But they certainly don't seem to wear as quickly as standard plugs do from memory. Nearly everyone I know here uses them or NGK racing 105 plugs, which are more expensive. -------------- "The only thing worse than being talked about is not being talked about...." oscar Wilde Back to top

youngjon Group: Members Posts: 202 Joined: Mar. 2007 Posted: Dec. 08 2007,13:06 Just thought i'd have a go early, as it's forecast snow/gales/lashing rain today up here. With a bit of premix down the carbs the bike starts and runs. Sadly, not via the carbs, so it's a strip and cleaning job. Bugger. Does anyone know if the petrol tap from a 3xv is common to any other yam, or does anyone have a good one? mine's corroded inside (bit worried about the carbs now...) Back to top

Warwickb Group: Members Posts: 1911 Joined: Sep. 2003 Posted: Dec. 08 2007,13:25 I'd imagine that there are Yam's that use the same vacuum type tap but I don't have any specifics I'm afraid. Some fit an RGV tap as they bolt striaght on - but thay are  a constant flow non-vacuum type, so you'd need to bear that in mind. Some prefer that type in any case of course. Personally, I've had good results cleaning up the OEM ones and have never had any problem with them really. Still, if the weather's not so good, It's an ideal opportunity to work through the tap and the carbs in the warmth of the shed I'd think . There are no real surprises in the carbs, but It's wise to work on them seperately (esp as a first timer) as they each have different jets, needles, and settings. Make sure you don't confuse the float bowls as the integral powerjet drilling is a slightly different size in each one. In truth it's quite hard to confuse them though: the lower one having 2 overflow outlets, while the upper only has one. Do you have a manual to hand? If you need any spec's: float height etc., just ask. Cheers Wb -------------- A garage overflowing with old stinkers... Back to top

youngjon Group: Members Posts: 202 Joined: Mar. 2007 Posted: Dec. 08 2007,14:47 Well, I'm sat working on the rear carb and all has gone well except for the blocked pilot jet on which the slot has crumbled despite being very careful and using a perfectly fitting screwdriver!!!! Aaaaargh....@*&??% So, looks like its carb cleaner compressed air and maybe a very thin (VERY) probe. Bugger. Back to top

youngjon Group: Members Posts: 202 Joined: Mar. 2007 Posted: Dec. 08 2007,14:55 What is the float height, by the way? May as well have it correct, even though it will only run above 4000 on the back cylinder!     Back to top

Warwickb Group: Members Posts: 1911 Joined: Sep. 2003 Posted: Dec. 08 2007,15:24 15-17mm. I always do mine at 16mm. You'll probably be fine just poking the blocked pilot through. You could try carefully drilling it out? Or maybe try a very small reverse threaded screw to get it out. Or an easy-out if you can get one in such a small size. Pilots are 15s if you decide to try to replace it. Cheers Wb -------------- A garage overflowing with old stinkers... Back to top

youngjon Group: Members Posts: 202 Joined: Mar. 2007 Posted: Dec. 08 2007,19:41 This pilot jet is proving to be a real pain. No amount of solvent and compressed air will shift it, and the hole in a 15 jet is so small that it's difficult/impossible to find anything rigid enough that's thin enough. Extracting the jet is likely to end in tears (found that out with 3ma air screws) as it will probably expand the brass and crack the cast tube it is screwed into. Any ideas or suggestions greatfully recieved.... I could do with a spare set of carbs, as these are generally not in good shape. Dreading popping the head off....   Back to top

skinuthbilly Group: Members Posts: 209 Joined: April 2007 Posted: Dec. 10 2007,01:51 i find that a strand pulled from a wire brush is  just about the right size to clear the pilot jet,my worst problem though was removing the backplate off the carb body,to clear the air drilling that feeds down into where the main jet fits. and the brass tube the fuel pipe sits on,crap on the inside kept falling off,causing my overflow probs, hope that helps. Ian Back to top

youngjon Group: Members Posts: 202 Joined: Mar. 2007 Posted: Dec. 10 2007,03:00 I've spent all night taking everything to bits in the house to find a spring - no luck yet. Also my wire brush is too big. So, I'm going to have a good look round the office and the local hardware shop tomorrow - I'm spured on to find a bit of wire now! Back to top

TZR_BOTT Group: Members Posts: 43 Joined: Aug. 2007 Posted: Dec. 10 2007,14:02 Hi, if you want to send me your address I can send some various sized small springs to you if you like, same as the ones i used to clear the carbs mentioned in the other thread. be a few days though? Cheers, Paul Back to top

youngjon Group: Members Posts: 202 Joined: Mar. 2007 Posted: Dec. 10 2007,18:17 Quote (TZR_BOTT @ Dec. 10 2007,12:02) Hi, if you want to send me your address I can send some various sized small springs to you if you like, same as the ones i used to clear the carbs mentioned in the other thread. be a few days though? Cheers, Paul Too late, I'm afraid - but thanks very much for the offer. I tried some very fine wire, didn't work, so I drilled the jet and tried an easy out, against my better judgement. Despite going very carefully, the carb body has cracked due to the expansion of the brass jet. New it would - but still went ahead on a prayer... So I can recommend NOT trying this method - it doesn't work! Back to top

jools Group: Members Posts: 1221 Joined: Oct. 2005 Posted: Dec. 10 2007,22:10 On an earlier topic I recommend the RGV tap. I switched and have never had a problem since. -------------- "The only thing worse than being talked about is not being talked about...." oscar Wilde Back to top

youngjon Group: Members Posts: 202 Joined: Mar. 2007 Posted: Dec. 10 2007,22:21 I agree with you about the RGV tap - I'm after one on ebay , I've never been a fan of vac taps. I have an old TZ tap which I was hoping would fit, but it points sideways and is too long. Back to top

jools Group: Members Posts: 1221 Joined: Oct. 2005 Posted: Dec. 11 2007,03:57 Don't worry about ebay Wemoto has them http://shop.wemoto.com/index.dyn you'll need to measure the mtg hole centres. I can't remember if they differ. -------------- "The only thing worse than being talked about is not being talked about...." oscar Wilde Back to top

ybk Group: Super Administrators Posts: 214 Joined: Mar. 2006 Posted: Dec. 12 2007,21:45 Quote (youngjon @ Dec. 07 2007,20:42) Dealing with a very rusty tank right now. And I have discovered a miracle product! It's called Deox C and its an environmentally friendly (if that bothers you) rust remover which you dissolve in water and by gum - it really works. Inside of the tank now looks like its been shot blasted. Mr youngjon, do you mind giving me some more info as to how you went about cleaning the tank with deox-c? Did you leave the fuel tap in and just fill it up with water? Would it be possible to get some pics? I found a place that can source the stuff for me but it's gonna cost an arm and a leg so I wanna get it right the first time! Back to top

youngjon Group: Members Posts: 202 Joined: Mar. 2007 Posted: Dec. 12 2007,23:49 Quote (ybk @ Dec. 12 2007,19:45) [do you mind giving me some more info as to how you went about cleaning the tank with deox-c? I don't think my way was very scientific - I left the tap on with no problems, poured 3/4 of a pack of deox into the tank, (i'd used about 1/4 on something else) then added water which was hot, but not too hot to put your hand in. Closed cap and agitated well to begin with, then left on a radiator to keep warm. Agitated about every hour and left for 4 hours. Tipped out into a bucket in case it needed more time (you can strain and re-use the liquid), but it was spot on. I suppose it depends how rusty the tank is. Worked an absolute treat for me. The difficult thing is getting the tank dry afterwards. Used an airline, petrol flush then 50/50 oil and petrol. Hope this helps! Back to top

jools Group: Members Posts: 1221 Joined: Oct. 2005 Posted: Dec. 13 2007,01:04 I managed to get some here in Sydney. It will be used on my LC tank which is about 19L so I will use the entire pack. Its re-usable so it will get drained into my spare rusty 3XV tank then into a container. Since I use premix I figure that should keep the rust at bay in the future, rather than the expense of getting it treated. I have a nice big hot air gun that will dry it out ok. You could use a hairdrier, but those Lambretta's are hard to find these days   -------------- "The only thing worse than being talked about is not being talked about...." oscar Wilde Back to top

ybk Group: Super Administrators Posts: 214 Joined: Mar. 2006 Posted: Dec. 13 2007,04:11 Cool!, this stuff might save my tank from its rust affliction. When you say you kept it warm on the radiator - would that like a heater in the house? It also says to leave it for 24hrs, did yours only light rust for it be ok after 4hrs? Back to top

youngjon Group: Members Posts: 202 Joined: Mar. 2007 Posted: Dec. 13 2007,19:34 It was just on a household radiator - about 25 degrees centigrade i'd guess. My tank was horribly rusty inside and 4 hours did it. You can tip the tank on its end and see the bottom to see if its done. Also, if you keep the liquid you can strain it and put it back in. I believe that heat significantly accelerates the reaction. Think I paid about £15 for my bottle of Deox. Back to top

[ Track this topic :: Email this topic :: Print this topic ]

TZR » Tech » 3XV » Plugs?

© nobody in particular Powered by Ikonboard 3.1.2a © 2003 Ikonboard