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Topic: derestricting 3xv< Next Oldest | Next Newest >
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Posted: May 29 2006,17:55 QUOTE

:O HI GUYS how do I get my 3xv derestricted, ive been told
    to do it with the speedo how?
    Ive also been told by changing the cdi unit,but some say
    thats bullsh.... .Dose any one out ther know how...
                 thanks LEE.....
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honkdawillydahonk Offline





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Posted: May 29 2006,18:07 QUOTE

You can bypass the speedo restrictor by fitting an M-max booster or by modifying the speedo (Do a search on the RD forum for this one) but all you'll achieve is a higher top speed if the bike'll pull it.... A 3XV-70 or similar CDi intended for an SP model may work, but as Warwick pointed out; there doesn't appear to be an 'official' route to full power for the R model....

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nutter3xv Offline





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Posted: May 29 2006,19:04 QUOTE

I really hate to go down this route...again
But I am not so sure about that.
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honkdawillydahonk Offline





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Posted: May 29 2006,19:08 QUOTE

Quote (nutter3xv @ May 29 2006,18:04)
I really hate to go down this route...again
But I am not so sure about that.

About what?  ???

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Warwickb Offline





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Posted: May 29 2006,20:23 QUOTE

Hi Lee. Welcome aboard. Here's the Instructions for how to deal with the speedo restrictor:



Now... Ian. For Gawd's sake lets not get into the cryptic nonsense again. I'm sure I'm not alone when I invite you to either put up, or shut up :p.

I'll arrange a dyno, all you need do is bring your bike along and show us how a simple swap of the CDI will give 60bhp on an R model 3XV. Whaddaya say?

Best wishes

Warwick


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gbowie Offline
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Posted: May 31 2006,19:56 QUOTE

Don't remove it completely, I have it on good authority that the 0 MPH part must stay to "reset"the CDI at every stop. just cut a bit off the top end to let it top out at what it never will reach, this is where optimism comes in ... like in your dreams.

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Warwickb Offline





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Posted: May 31 2006,20:23 QUOTE

Lol. Yeah, like I noted on the instructions, I cut mine so that the restriction will cut in at 250kph. Maybe if I chuck it off very tall building we'll be ble to see if it cuts it off at that speed.

Nothing doing on the dyno offer then Ian? Offer still stands  :;):.

Seriously, you know I'd be happy to eat as much numble pie as can be served up if my scepticism about the -71 unit could be shown to be unfounded. And Steve would also then be able to sell as many as he could get his hands on. I'd be wanting two or three of them myself! :D


Rgds

Wb


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China_Racer_1 Offline





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Posted: June 03 2006,15:51 QUOTE

Yea heck I wonder if  can get them knocked off here.

hmmm a made in China CDI for the TZR might work out well until you pass a chinese restaurant and it cuts out for lunch ha haha

60hp to 0hp faster than you can say chop chop.  

Course I should not joke al the big name electric boys are over here..anyone got an extra SUGO box they want to part with for a few months while I reverse engineer????? Jools????....anyone?......anyone?
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jools Offline





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Posted: June 04 2006,00:11 QUOTE

They use Motorola digital chips apparently, that have fixed curves and don't lend themselves to being "adjusted"

I'm a bit loathe to part with my SUGO box as it took long enough to find one and I'd be heartbroken if it got shagged !!

I'll think about it though.

Really need to find someone at Denso that built them ??!!


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cyclenut Offline





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Posted: June 04 2006,14:53 QUOTE

Quote (jools @ June 03 2006,23:11)
They use Motorola digital chips apparently, that have fixed curves and don't lend themselves to being "adjusted"

I'm a bit loathe to part with my SUGO box as it took long enough to find one and I'd be heartbroken if it got shagged !!

I'll think about it though.

Really need to find someone at Denso that built them ??!!

Ditto with what Jools said, I bought a standard CDI and tried to get  the potting removed with a special chemical I bought to dissolve it.  It didn't go too good.   Then I got some help from a guy who is an electronics expert who has done motorcycle ignitions and he said that reverse engineering these things is kinda tough.

I wouldn't part with my Sugo box right now, but in the off season i've thought about possibly mapping out the spark curve by spinning the engine with an electronic motor/variable frequency drive(poor man's motoring dyno).
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jools Offline





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Posted: June 04 2006,23:34 QUOTE

I'm in the process of designing a similar bench rig comprising an electric motor spinning the ignition rotor and all the gear attached (coils, servo TPS air valves etc) to see if i can map it out manually. Not quite sure how but I'll start with a strobe on a marked theoretical TDC mark. I plan to hook up a friction twistgrip the TPS then to a pot which will control the motor speed. Servo will operate another pot calibrated for Powervalve position and led's to indicate airvalve state.

When i get really clever i could interface to a laptop !!!

The idea was to try and emulate the ign curve using RGV CDI's if possible (or any others available) Obviously a lot of the kit fitted to the 3XV will be superflous in this example but should be fun tinkering.
I figure that a lot of the I/O parameters of alternative CDI's may be useable. It may be necessary to use that models coils for compatability though.
Ign triggers are basically switches so they should be ok may need to change operating polarity.

Gives me something to play with close season. :p


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ybk Offline





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Posted: June 05 2006,00:45 QUOTE

Reading all the derestricting stuff makes me think that Yamaha originally made the tzr with 45bhp or so in mind. It seems so hard to actually derestrict it that once you've actually gotten more horspepower from it, it's actually been tuned instead of derestricted...  ???
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jools Offline





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Posted: June 05 2006,04:41 QUOTE

I think that only applies to the basic 3XV-R

I believe the SP, once de-restricted is a different animal. Thats why its the one to have.


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Warwickb Offline





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Posted: June 05 2006,10:54 QUOTE

The 3XV was only ever officially available for sale in Japan which had/has a 45Bhp limit for 250's. Therefore it was effectively designed to produce 45Bhp. However, there is clearly more potential in 250 cc's worth of cylinders...

The SP version was the 'homolgation special' version of the 3XV, designed with proddy racing in mind - Porting is more radical, the crank more robust, close ratio gearbox, fully adjustable suspension etc. I understand that the fully Sugo kitted SP 3XV was very competitive in Japanese proddy racing.    

However, there is in fact very little difference btwn the R and SP models, and with better suited pipes, ignition etc. there is no reason why the R model should not be able to produce a reliable high 50s Bhp power output. My own view is that a little work to the head and porting would really be necessary to get well in to the 60s on the R model.

Wb


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Gavsp Offline





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Posted: June 05 2006,22:15 QUOTE

In my limited experience I would say that it’s down to the ignition, CDI unit and the barrels, don’t you guy think it would be better to lighten your bike as well and has anyone used the power band around a corner with out the back end kicking out?
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cyclenut Offline





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Posted: June 06 2006,03:51 QUOTE

Quote (jools @ June 04 2006,22:34)
I'm in the process of designing a similar bench rig comprising an electric motor spinning the ignition rotor and all the gear attached (coils, servo TPS air valves etc) to see if i can map it out manually. Not quite sure how but I'll start with a strobe on a marked theoretical TDC mark. I plan to hook up a friction twistgrip the TPS then to a pot which will control the motor speed. Servo will operate another pot calibrated for Powervalve position and led's to indicate airvalve state.

When i get really clever i could interface to a laptop !!!

The idea was to try and emulate the ign curve using RGV CDI's if possible (or any others available) Obviously a lot of the kit fitted to the 3XV will be superflous in this example but should be fun tinkering.
I figure that a lot of the I/O parameters of alternative CDI's may be useable. It may be necessary to use that models coils for compatability though.
Ign triggers are basically switches so they should be ok may need to change operating polarity.

Gives me something to play with close season. :p

Are you gonna couple to the crank or the countershaft sprocket?   If you're gonna couple to the crank, finding an electric motor that spins to redline might be kinda expensive   :p  

I'm thinking countershaft sprocket and about a 2-3 hp electric motor....good winter project!!
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cyclenut Offline





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Posted: June 06 2006,03:56 QUOTE

Quote (Warwickb @ June 05 2006,09:54)
The 3XV was only ever officially available for sale in Japan which had/has a 45Bhp limit for 250's. Therefore it was effectively designed to produce 45Bhp. However, there is clearly more potential in 250 cc's worth of cylinders...

The SP version was the 'homolgation special' version of the 3XV, designed with proddy racing in mind - Porting is more radical, the crank more robust, close ratio gearbox, fully adjustable suspension etc. I understand that the fully Sugo kitted SP 3XV was very competitive in Japanese proddy racing.    

However, there is in fact very little difference btwn the R and SP models, and with better suited pipes, ignition etc. there is no reason why the R model should not be able to produce a reliable high 50s Bhp power output. My own view is that a little work to the head and porting would really be necessary to get well in to the 60s on the R model.

Wb

100% right.   My Sugo kitted SP is making 65 hp on a Dynojet 250 and it works better than I ever imagined it would.   My R spec motor made 53 on the same dyno, and that was after 3 years of fiddling with different concoctions by me.    I think high fifties is possible with the R model....not sure how much the crank will like it though.

I'm racing my Sugo SP against some TZ250's at an AHRMA event next month...probably get some humble pie   :;):
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jools Offline





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Posted: June 06 2006,07:47 QUOTE

Erin

Im not gonna do either. i will try to mount the rotor assy on a dummy mandrill coupled to the electric motor with the ign triggers on a fabricated back plate and a crude magnetic friction brake arrangement.

Dont particularly want to be spinning the the crank around with the small motor I'll use.


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China_Racer_1 Offline





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Posted: June 06 2006,16:54 QUOTE

I wonder how hard it would be to finds some old Sugo kits  in Japland?   I have a few friends there  I will check with.  

I got  TZ CDI but from what Warwick said it might not even work.

Any thoughts?
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Warwickb Offline





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Posted: June 06 2006,19:14 QUOTE

It'll work to the extent that it will run the bike OK, Steve. I just don't think it will, in itself, give more power than a stock CDI. But if you can find a stock of Sugo parts in Japan that could prove to be very useful indeed.

Erin. How flexible is the motor with the Sugo kit fitted? Could you post a dyno print so that we can see how the sugo curve compares with the flexible stock bike power curve through the midrange. I have a Sugo CDI and an SP top end I am planning to mate with an wet clutch R bottom end (SP crank). I'm hoping this will make a nice road bike, but if the power is all purely top end I may change my plans a bit.

Did you fit the sugo jet kit and loom etc. too? Or improvise?

How about posting up the spec's you are running on the race bike?

Cheers

Warwick


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gbowie Offline
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Posted: June 06 2006,21:19 QUOTE

After 4 years of trying to get 3XV's to go for track use (with limited success), I must agree that it is not a case of derestriction but more of "modifying" for more performance.
Has anyone tried a TZ CDI on a 3XV?
I have a 4DP-00 CDI on my TZ and am prepared to try it on the TZR if someone can promise that I won't blow it !!
Connections look very similar.


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Warwickb Offline





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Posted: June 06 2006,23:24 QUOTE

I tried a 4DP-10 box on an R, Geoff. It will run the bike OK, but it's not a particularly rewarding riding experience. No power at the bottom, a big kick at 9k ish when the PV's open and then what felt to me like less power above about 10k. If you decide to try it, it would be great if you could dyno it with the TZ box so we can see what it really does.

Rgds

Wb


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jools Offline





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Posted: June 07 2006,02:23 QUOTE

That sounds just like the sugo -70 CDI too.
I spoke with the tuner who will be fettling my spare motor about this and he was surprised, because even the 4DP TZ's produce torque in the midrange 6000 - 8500. He suggested i look at carburation in that range which could be too lean. The first sign of weak mixture is a loss of torque apparently.

Funnily enough I played with the pilot screws to get a good tickover after fitting the CDI, this only affects the lower range up to 1/4 throttle so I doubt this would have that much affect. I'll jet up the mains & lift the needles a notch and see what happens.


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cyclenut Offline





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Posted: June 07 2006,02:48 QUOTE

Quote (Warwickb @ June 06 2006,18:14)
Erin. How flexible is the motor with the Sugo kit fitted? Could you post a dyno print so that we can see how the sugo curve compares with the flexible stock bike power curve through the midrange. I have a Sugo CDI and an SP top end I am planning to mate with an wet clutch R bottom end (SP crank). I'm hoping this will make a nice road bike, but if the power is all purely top end I may change my plans a bit.

Did you fit the sugo jet kit and loom etc. too? Or improvise?

How about posting up the spec's you are running on the race bike?

Cheers

Warwick

I've been meaning to get the dyno files from my dyno guy, but his floppy drive was broke and I didnt' have my USB flash drive with me that day.   Thanks for reminding me, I'll get them.

The motor is fairly tractable as compared to the R model.  I don't have a stock SP CDI (-71) to compare to the SUGO CDI (9A) that I'm running.  I bacically built the motor last winter from an old R motor that I had.  I just acquired the top end, pistons, carbs, CDI and pipes from multiple sources.  I modifed my R harness to work with the SP setup (carb powerjets is all it takes!)

The specs are:

-20 cylinders and heads (stock cylinders and heads cut to give 0.8 mm squish)
- 9A CDI (Sugo)
- Sugo pipes and unknown brand silencers
- Sugo carb kit on the stock Mikuni TM 32 mm carbs  
- Stock SP airbox with Daytona filter
-  NGK BR9 EIX plugs  (cheaper than BR9ECM and easier to fire)
-  VP MR8 Race fuel
-  Motul 800 2T at 30:1
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cyclenut Offline





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Posted: June 07 2006,02:55 QUOTE

Quote (gbowie @ June 06 2006,20:19)
After 4 years of trying to get 3XV's to go for track use (with limited success), I must agree that it is not a case of derestriction but more of "modifying" for more performance.
Has anyone tried a TZ CDI on a 3XV?
I have a 4DP-00 CDI on my TZ and am prepared to try it on the TZR if someone can promise that I won't blow it !!
Connections look very similar.

I had a little success with running two CDI's on my R model.   It made about 53 hp, but it revved out about 750 rpm higher than the stock CDI did which is good for racing.   I used a -21 TZ CDI and a -40 TZR CDI.  The TZR one drives the powervalves and the TZ CDI did the ignition.  The dyno files for this are on the TZR Yahoo site.

Basically you just break out the rpm power signals and send them to both CDI's.  Then you just control the respective system (Powervalve or Igntion) from the appropriate CDI.    The pinouts are shown on www.froos.com

Need two wire harnesses to chop up/solder/shrink wrap, two CDI's and a good deal of patience to make good robust connections.

If you choose to...you can simply plug in a TZ CDI to where your TZR CDI goes (I've done it), but you'll find the powervalves open way too late and the powerband is very peaky and biased towards the top end.   Thats why I went the route I did.
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jools Offline





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Posted: June 07 2006,14:38 QUOTE

This was on the TZ250 board from robert :

Hey Jools,
I wish I could give you a direct answer but it would only
be speculation so I don't want to waste your time and money
chasing my theorys.  In the past when the Sugo set up was
on my or my freinds TZR's we went ahead and converted to
all TZ spec parts. The carbs, cylinders, pipes where all TZ
bolt on. At that point the bike virtually ran as hard as my
TZ!
Things to look for on the TZR that hinder performance: The
reed stops on the reed blocks on the TZR do not let the petals
open up as far as they do on the TZ. The stock TZR heads
have huge volume and a  ton of squish, deck height way
negative too. If you run the stock 28mm carbs I think you can
never make big power. If you have 36mm SP carbs you have to
change the needle/nozzel assy to kit spec to flow enough
fuel. I have been told there are some baffels within the stock
pipes but I can't confirm that?. The stock silencers kill exhaust
flow and the stingers are too small. Stock airboxes restrict
flow as well.
Anyway, I know I didn't answer your question directly but those
points are some of the things I have learned about the TZR.
Hope it helps.
Best Regards - Robert


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gbowie Offline
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Posted: June 07 2006,20:05 QUOTE

Totally agree with Robert regarding carbs and exhaust, there are no baffles in the stock pipes (I have cut a pair open).
The sides of the chambers are lined with perforated steel sheet with an underlay of glass fibre only about 5mm thick in total. Spent hours chiselling the stuff out on advice of mr2stroke.com. welded them back together and found no improvement on the dyno other than a #### nice crackle from the pipes. Warwick, I will try the 4DP box on the TZR after our biggest bike race in Africa at our local track on the 17th.. 160 entries to date..not taking any chances.


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gbowie Offline
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Posted: June 07 2006,20:43 QUOTE

Cyclenut, you certainly have done a lot of homework.. was that TZ CDI tried on a standard TZR ? I have a race prepared bike with modded chambers and 34mm carbs ..Maybe it could be a different story ( must try all avenues ). ..ever hopeful..... I have found that 9 times out of 10 the thing goes slower after trying a new trick .

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Posted: June 07 2006,23:02 QUOTE

Jools I think that the info you have been given may be somewhere near it, however no one really knows...yet.

I can't believe the 28mm flatslides are going to cause a restriction till at least the late 57-60hp, a tuned rd500 on standard 26mm roundslides can make over 25hp per cyclinder. The reed blocks MAY be causing a restriction but it is easy to loose power by opening them up too much.

I am going to push my engine bit by bit, It's important to make sure the parts are at their limit before you modify them otherwise you can loose bucket loads of drive and I am sure we don't have to do that.


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jools Offline





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Posted: June 07 2006,23:40 QUOTE

I had been thinking about opening the reed stops up a bit. I hear tales of woe but its a mod I carried out on my old RD400 years ago. I opened them up to 12mm from memory. i raced that bike for 2 years like that without any problems, and it was also used regularly as a commuting hack in between races.
I am also thinking about trying removal of airboxes but not sure what jetting size increase I should try if I do, don't have a lot of setup time at the track.

One other thing I noticed last night - Had the carbs off to lift the needles but found the float bowl on the top carb blocked with crap again in the bottom hole that feeds up through the hole in the bowl gasket to the top half- probably the pilot feed ?
It took some cleaning out too. Usual filters full of crap too.
Hopefully now I'm using my spare tank this sh*twill go away as there is no sign of rust in this tank.

Regular maintenance to these carbs seems in order !!!


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cyclenut Offline





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Posted: June 08 2006,00:58 QUOTE

Quote (gbowie @ June 07 2006,19:43)
Cyclenut, you certainly have done a lot of homework.. was that TZ CDI tried on a standard TZR ? I have a race prepared bike with modded chambers and 34mm carbs ..Maybe it could be a different story ( must try all avenues ). ..ever hopeful..... I have found that 9 times out of 10 the thing goes slower after trying a new trick .

Yes, I tried a -21 CDI on my R spec TZR.   I found it revved out much higher, but the powervalve mapping was way off.  Thats when I came up with the dual CDI approach which seemed to work the best since a SUGO CDI was never made for the R model.  Check out the TZR Yahoo files for dyno graphs.

Good luck.
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cyclenut Offline





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Posted: June 08 2006,01:01 QUOTE

Quote (jools @ June 07 2006,22:40)
I had been thinking about opening the reed stops up a bit. I hear tales of woe but its a mod I carried out on my old RD400 years ago. I opened them up to 12mm from memory. i raced that bike for 2 years like that without any problems, and it was also used regularly as a commuting hack in between races.
I am also thinking about trying removal of airboxes but not sure what jetting size increase I should try if I do, don't have a lot of setup time at the track.

One other thing I noticed last night - Had the carbs off to lift the needles but found the float bowl on the top carb blocked with crap again in the bottom hole that feeds up through the hole in the bowl gasket to the top half- probably the pilot feed ?
It took some cleaning out too. Usual filters full of crap too.
Hopefully now I'm using my spare tank this sh*twill go away as there is no sign of rust in this tank.

Regular maintenance to these carbs seems in order !!!

Yes, I forgot to add that I'm running TZ reed stops on my 65 hp SP.  I recommend it, they were only like $20, but kinda take some time to install correctly to insure that you don't get any reed cage leaks which are very common with TZ and TZR's.  I recommend a little Yamabond on the gaskets.
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China_Racer_1 Offline





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Posted: June 08 2006,15:08 QUOTE

Man I have a lot of sorting out to do.

I have a basically stock 91 R engine in a 93 frame with a dry clutch - not sur how it got put on or when.

I will run the stock 71 cdi then swap out the 71 cdi with the tz cdi and see whats what.

I  have stock chambres which  think will be the big bottle neck but  have tz silencers.  Looking for a chep pair of Chambers.... any one...anyone?

My local track it only 2 kilometers and has 14 turns so top end is not an issue I need drive in the lower and mid range.

Power valves?....nope not there.  They were wired open with nothing conecting them when I bought it but it seemed to run like a raped ape.  The power came on about 7.5k  then slammed shut about 10.5k.

I talk to to my shop owner that is sponsoring mechanical work and he said yes they run the valves wired open in the past (No air box) and your power band was very tight and it was a bit of an art form to make it work but once you figured out the gearing and what gear to be in at what turn it was do-able.  

I'lll let you know but I have little hope of break neck speed.  

At this point running well and not looking like an arse will suit me fine ha ha
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jools Offline





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Posted: June 08 2006,22:25 QUOTE

Steve

what size main jets is it running ??

Try Bosson Performance Exhausts in South Africa.

I've just ordered some at 2800R air mail delivery (~A$580) pretty cheap I reckon.

Other than that try yahoo japan (use okshon.com) type in 3XV for the search.

Its worth getting the power valves working, helps get the drive on earlier out of the turns. Or just get a complete TZ top end.

don't worry about looking an arse, its still fun and no-one knows you !!!

i did a price check here for 4DP TZ race glass - A$540 delivered including fasteners and screen.


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Posted: June 09 2006,04:09 QUOTE

Jools thanks for the advice and the price check.

I plan to market my TZR set to the post for about 350 USD including all my custom brackets dzus clips but I have no access here to the screens.

I went ahead and had the solo seat fabricated at the fiberglass place should have a sample in a few weeks.

I  did it like yours - filled in the pillion area and made it a one piece not split downthe middle.  

Yea I may not look like an arse but all the Chinese stop and stare when they see me as I am THE ONLY WHITE GUY on the track!

So the pressure to at least get around the track is great.  They all know I used to race proffesional in the USA also so............  But no real worries they al have 150's and I have a 250 he he he  but those 4 stroke 400's hmmmm :-(




Also I filled in where the tail light goes and I plan to get some round tail lights to cut in for those that need them for the street.  

I think I can get some pretty trick looking turn signals here as well.  

:(
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jools Offline





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Posted: June 09 2006,06:11 QUOTE

I suggest you try and do something with the screens if possible.

I had a devil of a job finding one for my race fairing and after much searching and refusal found the original fairing manufacturer who made one up to a template they had.

Anyone buying a fairing will probably find the same problem.
I tried the original 3XV screen which would not fit.

you may need to get one from the original manufacturer and use as a template.


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China_Racer_1 Offline





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Posted: June 09 2006,15:47 QUOTE

The windscreen manufacturer is MRA in the UK.

Any one now them?  

They have the double bubble screen its for a 1999 TZ fairing.

http://www.mra.de/html/gb/gb-catalog.htm

I think I found them they seem to be out of Germany not the UK.

Anyone know these guys?
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Warwickb Offline





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Posted: June 10 2006,00:41 QUOTE

MRA make good screens (I think you're right about the Germany bit) but they are pretty expensive. If the front fairing is standard TZ, I don't think screens will be that much of a prob in the UK as quite a few companies do them.

If you mail me some Pic's Stve i'll post them up for you. The link to your site on the earlier post doesn't seem to be working for me ???

Rgds

Warwick


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China_Racer_1 Offline





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Posted: June 10 2006,05:10 QUOTE

Warwick, Ok I sent some  pics.

Just an FYI I tried to use the stock mount for the bubble.  

It seemed to work out Ok and I did not modify it so the mount will be the same for either the race or the street configuration.  

In other words  if you want to trick out your stock mount and have a quick release system I designed, then thats possible.

I will try to make it as stock config as possible to allow for the rear view mirrors as I believe that would be an issue with the street crowd.

Maybe I can jsut make two seperate end mounts one to allow for mirrors one a 'one hole' pattern for the race fairing.  

should be easy to do - an interchangeable kind of a thing.  

I should have a prototype in two weeks.
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China_Racer_1 Offline





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Posted: June 12 2006,06:07 QUOTE

I saw this comment and posted it here.  Maybe its an easier fix to tehe speed restriciton than taking apart and hacking..Steve

This post was talki gabout the speedometer it read:

[I have noticed that the 3xv, Fzr400rr and and FZR1000 (91) all have the same outsides, not to sure on the insides though.

When I had these bikes the first time round I can remember me and my mates putting in FZR 600 uk spec speedo's. They fitted straight in and un restricted the bike also.]

Not sure about this but it might be of some help
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honkdawillydahonk Offline





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Posted: June 12 2006,09:04 QUOTE

Quote (China_Racer_1 @ June 12 2006,05:07)
[I have noticed that the 3xv, Fzr400rr and and FZR1000 (91) all have the same outsides, not to sure on the insides though.

When I had these bikes the first time round I can remember me and my mates putting in FZR 600 uk spec speedo's. They fitted straight in and un restricted the bike also.]

Steve, I'm pretty sure that wont work with a 3XV (or any Yamaha of that age) If you un-plug the speed restrictor circuit it does all sorts of funny things.... My TRX850 (Which, funnily enough, used to use exactly the same M-Max box to de-restrict it) wouldn't rev out in ANY gear with the restrictor circuit unplugged....

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Warwickb Offline





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Posted: June 12 2006,10:52 QUOTE

I use an MPH speedo body from a TZR125R in one of mine, Adam.

I was concerned that this might cause prob's as it doesn't have the restrictor circuit board and the associated wiring for the loom. I currently run this set-up with a Posh Firm Moto delimiter fitted, which simply plugs into the wiring that would plug into the wiring from the limiter circuit board on the speedo. This is different to the m-max set-up which plugs in 'in-line' so you do need the restricto circuit board wiring to be in place.

I must say tho' that on the road I have not noticed any  difference with it plugged in or not. I have not done a rigourous back to back though, I simply noticed that I'd been riding it for a while with the Posh Firm Moto unit disconnected after having the upper cowl off for some reason. I didn''t notice any difference in porformance and when pushing it, the bike will rev out in all gears so I'm a bit perplexed by all of this stuff really ???

Hopefully doing some dyno testing next weekend so I'll try to get a run with the box plugged in and one with it not to see if it in itself makes any difference to power output.

It'd be useful to have some more definitive info on this aspect of the restriction If anyone out there is more clued up on electrionics.

Cheers

Wb


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