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Topic: My rs crank is dead !, Price new in u.k.< Next Oldest | Next Newest >
wullie3XV9 Offline
Wullie3XV9




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Posted: Dec. 03 2008,23:29 QUOTE

Got the crank assembly out my motor yesterday, it's knackered !!    :(   All three main bearings are rough, the L/H one, ( behind the gennie stator ), being the worst. ( No surprise there ! ).
The L/H big-end bearing is also rough, but the R/H big-end is in good condition. ( About the only thing that is !! ). The L/H crank seal is bearly touching the crank, so couldn't have been far off letting air in !! There's corrosion on the L/H flywheels, L/H main bearing & rusty "spatter" inside the cases. Some how, water, ( not coolant, it hasn't used a drop in the 2,000 kms I've had the bike ), or a heavy build-up of condensation, has corroded any steel in that area. Maybe a result of sitting for a long period in hot / humid conditions before it was brought to the U.K. ??
  Anyhoo, anyone in the U.K. purchased a brand new R/RS or SP crank assembly recently, or had a quote recently for either ??
I sent an e-mail to Webbs Yamaha in Lincoln, but so far, no reply.  If Webbs don't reply this week, I'll phone them next week,
as I'll be on holiday.  


  The mess inside L/H case.
 

   The L/H main bearing.


  A nice shade of orange rust !!


  A crank of two halfs !!          


  A severely pitted needle roller !!                
                     

Yours, feeling miserable, Wullie.   :(


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jools Offline





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Posted: Dec. 04 2008,03:47 QUOTE

Wullie

you could try one of the guys in the USA

Accuproducts or Rising Sun Cycles. even with the dreaded VAT it may work out cheaper..........

I have a spare recon as new SP crank - but its not for sale  :p

actually now I come to think I may have some useable crank bits and new bearings if you are interested that would aid your rebuild.

Let me know and I'll have a dig around

Jools


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Warwickb Offline





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Posted: Dec. 04 2008,14:54 QUOTE

If Webbs are a bit slow, try Fowlers (Bristol) for a quote - normally get back the same day. I think they're about £650 or so. Be worth getting a rebuild assessement and quote too I'd think (Grampian, S.E.P. etc.)? If the big end pins are OK, it should be fine for a rebuild. If you go new, then you might as well go SP type Id think.

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wullie3XV9 Offline
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Posted: Dec. 04 2008,18:25 QUOTE

Thanks again gents.
Having had a discussion with my lovely, understanding wife last night, ( I'm being serious by the way, not sarcastic !!) she suggested that rather than waste money on sending it to be stripped, examined & found to be unrebuildable, it would be better spent on helping to get a brand new one. As she rightly pointed out, it would have zero miles on it, so I would be 100 percent sure of its condition & history, which with a rebuild, I'd still have a nagging doubt about the condition of the L/H big-end pin. This is also a chance to upgrade to a SP crank. I'm not exactly "flush" at the minute, with Christmas coming, ( we've got 3 kids ), but if it takes to the summer to get the money together, so be it. If it wasn't for the rough big-end, I would send it off for a rebuild, but knowing my luck, ( or rather, the lack of it !! ), the big-end pin will be shot !!  I'm now regretting not taking the motor apart sooner, it might have prevented some damage.   By the time this motor's rebuilt, it'll have swallowed up the best part off a £1,000 pound all together !!    :angry:   While it's in bits, I might as well replace all the bottom end seals & gaskets. If, in a couple of years, I have to sell the bike, I'll have a pile of receipts, ( & photographic proof !! ), that the engine has had a complete overhaul.  :D   Knackered pistons & rings, knackered clutch friction plates & a knackered crank !!  I knew I should have listened to my head, ( not my heart ), & bought a brand new SV 650 !!,   :p    Still, looking on the bright side, it could have "blown-up" & wiped out a perfectly good cylinder !!  :O  

                        Yours, still miserable, Wullie.   :(


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Warwickb Offline





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Posted: Dec. 04 2008,19:06 QUOTE

No comfort to you Wullie, but old bikes are very often just money pits. You just have to accept that fact really. As I've mentioned before, this is primarily why I find the ludicrous prices these old strokers seem to command entirely preposterous. With a full motor rebuild they can easily end up being more expensive than a new supersport 600! Doesn't make much difference to me as I bleed fully synth so would always prefer a stroker over a diesel really, but I can't really understand why people would pay the kind of prices some dealers - and increasingly private vendors - ask for them.

As you mention though, at least when it's rebuilt you can be confident that you'll have a sweet motor. Though having said that, I'd have to add that the rebuilt SP crank in my track bike is far sweeter and better balanced than the brand new one I bought for one of the SPs a couple of years ago. I don't think Yamaha bother too much with balancing 'em...


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wullie3XV9 Offline
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Posted: Dec. 04 2008,20:45 QUOTE

Thanks for that Warwick.
As for rebuilt cranks feeling sweeter than NEW ones, I like the look of PJ ENGINEERINGs claims for accuracy during a rebuild. I looked up their web-site again last night. Who do you normally get to rebuild your cranks ?,
& what make of fully synthetic 2 T oil do you use ?  Thanks again.  :;):  I'm off out now for a couple of beers to drown my sorrows !!  :D


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Warwickb Offline





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Posted: Dec. 04 2008,22:28 QUOTE

Sorry the previous post sounded almost like a piss take. It wasn't meant to - just typing in a hurry...

I bought the SP crank freshly rebuilt by some Guy in the US (Rick Schell or something like that I think?). I've never actually had a 3XV crank rebuilt myself, but I've had a couple that have been rebuilt (the other one was an R type crank made out of 2 duff ones by Grampian, which worked perfectly well I have to say) so can't really offer any personal recommendations other than that. Martin and I did bash off a pair of end mains and replace them to good effect on one though... Others may be able to help with personal recomendations of crank builders, but I'd be looking for whoever the 2t racing community use myself as they'll have experience with TZ cranks and would be able to advise if it's rebuildable - and if they do TZ cranks they'd likley have all but the centre bearing and seal (diffrent on a 3XV) in stock too maybe?  

For oil I've been using Hein Gericke's own brand '2t Racing ol' for a year or so now. it's around 30 quid for 5 litres and it looks and smells suspicioulsy like Motul 710... which is about 12 quid a litre. For me the savings are worthwhile as I have quite a few strokers and do a fair annual mileage on 'em too.


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honkdawillydahonk Offline





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Posted: Dec. 04 2008,23:19 QUOTE

I had my SP crank rebuilt by Dave Hedison (Hedison  motors) 01652 656301 Did a top job and got all the bits OK. You're looking at aound £250 if you need to replace all Rods, big end and main bearings though... Much cheaper than a new 'un. He won't charge you very much (if anything) to pull it apart and confirm if it's beyond repair either... :D

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jools Offline





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Posted: Dec. 05 2008,03:02 QUOTE

The standard crank is perfectly good for road use. At that price to rebuld its a no brainer for me - providing the big end journals are ok and not pitted. SEP may have replacement big end webs - i got a pair for my LC from them.

You will not be able to tell this until its cracked apart.

I ALWAYS fit new rods when I have a crank rebuild - even though I have been advised the old ones are serviceable. They are not that expensive so seems false economy not to ....In fact the only things i ever reuse are the webs !


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wullie3XV9 Offline
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Posted: Dec. 05 2008,19:15 QUOTE

Thanks for all the suggestions guys, it's really appreciated.  :D
Right then, first off, Warwick, no need to apoligise, I didn't take your reply as a "piss-take", & you are right !!  :D
Secondly, Jools, thanks ( NOT ) for selling me your spare rebuilt SP crank.  :;): , & yes, it would be a total rebuild.
Thirdly, Thanks to Honkdawilly... for your suggestion, will give him a phone tommorow & see what he can do.
I can confirm it's definately corrosion damage on the L/H big-end bearing / journal. Examined the needle roller bearings with a X10 magnifier at work this morning. Three consecutive needles have bad corrosion pitting & the others don't look smooth at all !! So I think it's safe to say the big-end pin / journal is badly pitted somewhere on its circumferance as well !!  I phoned S.E.P in Kegworth when I got in from work earlier, explained my situation, & was told that they could make & fit a new pin & completly rebuild the crank for, at most, £ 300.00. They charge £ 240.00 all in for 350 LC & 350 Power Valve crank rebuilds. I was told, as there are TZ bits involved, cost of parts would be dearer. Is this true from other peoples experiance ??  
Still, £ 300 quid sounds good to me !!    :D  

                          Yours, happier now, Wullie.   :)


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Warwickb Offline





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Posted: Dec. 05 2008,19:32 QUOTE

300 sounds pretty good to me if they can rehabilitate the duff web (I think it's the centre main and seal that are the expensive bits). Be intersting to see how you get on, as I have an SP crank with a blown big end that I will toss SEPs way if they come up with the goods on yours.

Honk. Is the crank you had rebuilt the one with the new pin-sleeve affair? And do you want me to 'test' it for you in view of the fact that it'll have turned to dust by the time you get your bloody 3XV finished :laugh:


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wullie3XV9 Offline
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Posted: Dec. 05 2008,20:07 QUOTE

Warwick
It'll be January at the earliest before I send the crank away for its repair / overhaul, but I'll keep you informed.
Had a close look at the L/H big-end pin & it LOOKS like it is a separate press-fit into both outer AND inner L/H webs on R/RS cranks, but I could be wrong !!  ???  ( it has been known !! )   :D  
The parts book diagram suggests it's integral with the inner web.
Is the pin integral with one of the webs on SP & TZ cranks, NOT a separate press fitted part, if you know what I mean ??, i.e., pin & web cast as one, then the pin machined to size.  Anyone know for sure ??  Time will tell how they repair it. ( Hopefully !! )


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daz3xv Offline





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Posted: Dec. 05 2008,21:07 QUOTE

i contacted fowlers only last week and got the following prices

std 'r' crank £428 plus vat

sp/spr crank £516 plus vat

i'm not sure if the complete crank assembly comes with the outer mains or not, and fowlers were not sure either ???
so that could be a few quit on top of the above prices.

if you want a sp/spr crank you have to order it and expect a six week wait for it to come from japan so i'm told,
so i'm waiting for mine to arrive :D

i've used grampian motors for many years to rebuild cranks, top quality work and service.
asaik they dont supply any of the parts you need to rebuild a 3xv crank but are quite happy to rebuild your crank if you can supply the parts. last time i payed £45 for a strip and rebuild
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Warwickb Offline





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Posted: Dec. 05 2008,22:57 QUOTE

The new crank I bought came with the outer mains, but not the seals, so you'll need to get those too.

Not sure what the problem is with the crank pins (and don't have a removed SP crank to hand to try to work it out). To do with the position of the pins maybe? Or perhaps it's just an equipment thing, as SEP seem to be suggesting that they can push it out and replace? As I mentioned I've never had one rebuilt as I've either canibalised another motor, or bought a used or new replacement when I've broken one.


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wullie3XV9 Offline
Wullie3XV9




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Posted: Dec. 05 2008,23:16 QUOTE

Thanks Daz, your a star !!  :D
Popped into a small local bike shop, (Glenrothes Motorcycles), that repairs / maintains 2 stroke 'crossers on the way home from work this afternoon, & he also recommended Grampion Motors. He's also used them for a few years now. He also stocks Silkolene fully synthetic injector 2T oil, currently priced at £ 6.00 per litre !! I now know where to get top quality oil locally at last !!   :D

Warwick , IF the pin IS integral with the L/H inner web, couldn't the pin be cut off, a hole machined in the web & then reamed out to the correct size for a new pin ??  They'd have to be bloody accurate mind !!    ???


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Warwickb Offline





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Posted: Dec. 05 2008,23:42 QUOTE

I suppose anything's possible, Wullie, but I just break 'em :D. No idea if/how they can be fixed...

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wullie3XV9 Offline
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Posted: Dec. 06 2008,00:04 QUOTE

And on that bombshell, Warwick...,  GOODNIGHT !!  :D

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jools Offline





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Posted: Dec. 06 2008,06:32 QUOTE

Cranks, cranks cranks !!

here are some of my collection:



SP in the foreground, TZ at the back remnants of an R crank on the RHS.


Close of the R crank centre bearing - destroyed big end pin looks ok though.



The crank bin - lots of busted LC crank parts




The new drawer - bearings seals and other goodies.


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wullie3XV9 Offline
Wullie3XV9




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Posted: Dec. 06 2008,14:34 QUOTE

Can I Have a SERVICABLE big-end pin & a set of DRY CLUTCH friction plates, PLEASE !!   ???   (Some people are just SO GREEDY !!)

Only kidding Jools.   :D    Is the big-end pin definateley a separate press-fit part into the inner web on R/RS crank assemblys ??  It looks like it is in the photo. If it is, S.E.P. should be able to make up a new pin no problem.    :D

                             Thanks in advance, Wullie.


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jools Offline





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Posted: Dec. 07 2008,00:11 QUOTE

No

its an integral part of the web - one of yamaha's biggest blunders/ The LC is the same. The air cooled RD's had separate pins like the early TZ's.
I have heard of a few methods to rectify this, metal spraying, bored out pins etc. A mate here had the latter done on his race LC using an air cooled pin but it didn't last that long and the damage caused for me is not worth the risk.
SEP should be pretty good and they do supply the complete web/pin assembly for the LC. So you would probably trust their work. I had another R crank that I got from okshon so we built one good one from the two. The parts in the photo are what is left.

As I don't use an R crank anywhere now. these parts are available................. :;):


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wullie3XV9 Offline
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Posted: Dec. 07 2008,00:26 QUOTE

Jools, by available, do you mean FREE to a good home ??  ( If you don't ask, you don't get !!)   :D

A servicable web/pin would help keep my crank rebuild cost down.   :D

What condition is the other big-end in thats also in the photo ?? (still connected to the centre journal with the knackered centre bearing)
Does the con. rod bearing run smoothly & quietly when con. rod is spun ??  (Lubed up of course !!)

I would cover the postage / freight cost, if it helps sway your mind


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honkdawillydahonk Offline





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Posted: Dec. 07 2008,09:48 QUOTE

Here's my crank repair if anyone's interested...

http://www.neil.nu/cgi-bin....5;t=491


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wullie3XV9 Offline
Wullie3XV9




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Posted: Dec. 07 2008,16:27 QUOTE

QUOTE. "secondly, if stood for any length of time the condensation in there tracks along the needles and causes corrosion to the bearing surface".

My problem in a nutshell !!   :(    But it wasn't my fault though Guv'ner !!  She has been on long runs regularly & covered 2,000 kms in the 5 & 1/2 months I've had 'er. !!   ???

I've managed to post photos of the chaos in my 'cases !!  :D
They're back at the start of the thread.


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slinger Offline





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Posted: Dec. 07 2008,23:08 QUOTE

Wullie I've used PJ Engineering in the past, and they have just a done ypvs crank for me, and I can say they are one of the best around if that help.
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wullie3XV9 Offline
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Posted: Dec. 08 2008,01:34 QUOTE

Thanks Slinger, Can they replace inner webs with integral big-end pins ??
I'll give them a call tomorrow to find out.  :D


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wullie3XV9 Offline
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Posted: Dec. 08 2008,16:14 QUOTE

I've just been on the phone to S.E.P. again to clarify a couple of things.

1. It will be a NEW inner web, with an INTEGRAL big-end pin, that'll be fitted.  

2. JOOLS,  the reason I was given for the big-end pin being integral with the inner web is that :-                  

a centre bearing pin hole, & a big-end pin hole, would be TOO close together, creating a STRESS RAISER between the holes when the pins are pressed home, eventually causing CRACKS to appear BETWEEN the holes !!    :O              

Makes perfect sense to me !!   :;):

Looking at the centre bearing pin on my crank, it radiuses out to a BIGGER diameter going INTO the inner web than the diameter at the centre main bearing, & the two holes would be VERY close together !!  Hence why both the OUTER web bearing pins are also integral, rather than separate parts, all pressed together, into lots of holes VERY close together !!  

So, Yamaha DID put some thought into the design of the crank after all !!
       
Hope the above makes sense to everyone !!   Regards, Wullie.   :D

P.S.  I was still quoted "no more than £300 quid" for a full rebuild inclusive of a new web / pin.  :D


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Warwickb Offline





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Posted: Dec. 08 2008,16:58 QUOTE

Did you make it clear that this was for a V twin '3XV' model TZR? And that it was for an R/RS model type crank - and that that is different to an SP model crank? If they can provide new centre webs for both R/RS and SP cranks then that is really good news, but I can't help wondering how? Perhaps TZ webs are available, which they could use for SP cranks I guess, but where do they source the (structurally different) R/RS webs from? Surely thay can't be proposing to fabricate one as a one-off and still bring a full rebuild in under 300 quid? Seems almost too good to be true... I very much hope they can of course, so keep us informed with progress, won't you.

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wullie3XV9 Offline
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Posted: Dec. 08 2008,18:28 QUOTE

YES  Warwick !!
I've just got off the phone to S.E.P.,  AGAIN,  just for you Warwick !!  :D
They CAN replace crank inner webs / big-end pins on BOTH R/RS AND SP cranks. They DO know that there are TWO different crank designs.  I was told they've replaced R inner webs / pins in the past, and an SP inner web / pin recently !!
Sounds like they use TZ inner webs / pins. Phone them yourself to find out for sure.  :;):
So, it looks like you can salvage your damaged SP crank after all !!   :D

Service Exchange Parts, ( S.E.P. ) Phone - (U.K.) 01509 673295.


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Warwickb Offline





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Posted: Dec. 08 2008,19:12 QUOTE

That's really good news, Wullie. I will almost certainly send them my toasted SP crank for assessment and rebuild. In the past I've always been quite lucky in picking up good used/rebuilt SP ones for much less than 300 quid, but it's really excellent news that they can rebuild both types of cranks as an alternative to replacement.

Thanks on behalf of all, I'm sure, for pursuing this, Wullie!


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wullie3XV9 Offline
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Posted: Dec. 08 2008,19:41 QUOTE

Nae bother at aw. Glad to do my bit to help keep these bikes going.   :D

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jools Offline





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Posted: Dec. 09 2008,03:35 QUOTE

So you are not interested in my bits any more ?  :(  :D

I would have traded for a harris steering damper clamp for my LC - about 20 quids worth  :laugh:


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wullie3XV9 Offline
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Posted: Dec. 10 2008,15:51 QUOTE

Thanks for the offer of the crank bits Jools, but now I know for certain S.E.P. can fit a NEW web / pin, I'll go with that option.  :D      
Sorry for the slow response. I was out all day/night yesterday. Didn't get back 'till late.


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wullie3XV9 Offline
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Posted: Jan. 12 2009,19:07 QUOTE

Here's an update on my crank.

Posted it off to Service Exchange Parts, (S.E.P.) in Kegworth, Derbyshire, today. Gave them a phone to let them know it's on its way, and also to ask what the average turn-around time is, ( Warwick, :;): ) . Was told 2 - 3 weeks. It's dependant on parts availability & how long it takes to get them in.
I'll post up the final cost of the full rebuild, inclusive of the NEW inner flywheel / big-end journal, when they let me know it's completed & ready to be payed for & returned.

I also posted my barrels & heads off today to Martin77 for a "stage 2" type road tune, phoned in orders for ALL bottom-end seals, gaskets & o-rings from Webbs of Lincoln, (for 3XV only parts), & Dennis Trollops, (for 3XV / TZ 4DP compatible parts).
No point in "spoiling the ship for a ha'p'orth o' tar", as they used to say.  :D
My ISA's going to be taking a hammering over the next few weeks !!   :(  

It'll be well worth all the agro though, (I hope !!).   :D    Regards, Wullie.


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wullie3XV9 Offline
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Posted: Feb. 28 2009,18:01 QUOTE

Here's another update on my 3XV9 RS crank, for anyone interested.
It's now been at Service Exchange Parts for nigh on 6 weeks & they STILL haven't sourced an inner web !!
I 'phoned them this morning & was told that they're "waiting for a batch to come from America" ??!!  
( I managed to coax them into admitting they source SECOND-HAND ones, NOT NEW ones !! )
  Earlier this week, I took delivery of a second-hand crank that was sourced for me by Essarjayauto,
( a BIG, BIG THANK-YOU, mate  :D  ),  that's even more knackered than mine was, but crucially,
the R/H inner web is servicable / usable !!  :D
So, thanks to the sterling effort of Mr. Essarjayauto , there's finally some progress, as I posted off the 2nd crank to S.E.P. this morning.

Here's some pics. of the 2nd ( even more knackered !! ) crank.

Introducing crank No. 2.


Another crank of two halves !!   ???


VERY badley pitted & corroded L/H big-end needles !!   :O


This looks promising !!  :D  ( The R/H big-end ).  


This is the L/H main bearing. How much rust ??!! The centre main's just as bad !!
Both these bearings were VERY rough. I would have heard these two rumbling away NO problem !!


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essarjayauto Offline





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Posted: Feb. 28 2009,19:50 QUOTE

Thank's for the praise wullie !!
Im glad it is of some use to you. Are those pic's before or after you cleaned it up ?! I did'nt really check it out that carefully 'cos i know what im like, if i had it too long i would have ended up keeping it !! I might have some more bit's coming from you know who, so i'll try and blag a cdi for you if you are still looking ? He said he is getting some bit's from japan so i am going to see if he can get me a sugo cdi !
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Warwickb Offline





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Posted: Feb. 28 2009,20:46 QUOTE

The plan being to make one good one out of the two then I presume, Wullie? If so I had an R crank that had been put together out of two duff ones (before I got the bike) and it was absolutely fine... until it met an unpleasant fate at the hands of Martin77 due to an unfortunate blown-oil-warning-lightbulb scenario  :laugh:

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wullie3XV9 Offline
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Posted: Feb. 28 2009,22:12 QUOTE

Quote (Warwickb @ Feb. 28 2009,18:46)
The plan being to make one good one out of the two then I presume, Wullie?

Yes Warwick, you presume correctly. That is indeed the plan.  :D

If you're interested, here's my Photobucket link again, so you can see what I've been up to the last fortnight. ( pages 5 & 6 ).

http://s341.photobucket.com/albums/o393/wulliemckie/


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Warwickb Offline





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Posted: Feb. 28 2009,22:36 QUOTE

Some excellent work there, Wullie. All stuff that's very well worth doing while its in bits i'd say. She'll be a peach when rebuilt that's for sure.  My track bike could really do with a similar overhaul I have to say...

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wullie3XV9 Offline
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Posted: Mar. 01 2009,04:40 QUOTE

Quote (Warwickb @ Feb. 28 2009,20:36)
...She'll be a peach when rebuilt that's for sure...

Thanks Warwick. As long as "she" doesn't seize solid after 25 klicks !!  ???  
( With sincere apologies to Malc !! ).


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wullie3XV9 Offline
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Posted: Mar. 01 2009,15:07 QUOTE

Quote (essarjayauto @ Feb. 28 2009,17:50)
Are those pic's before or after you cleaned it up ?!

Essarjay, all I did before the photos were taken was to flush out both big-ends with clean white spirit.
Then I put a couple of drops of 2T oil on the good R/H big-end to see how it felt & sounded when the con-rod was spun round.  :D


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