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wullie3XV9 Wullie3XV9 Group: Members Posts: 293 Joined: June 2008 Posted: Nov. 27 2008,21:34 I've started removing the engine from my RS for the first time, (It's a dawdle !!)    Is it better to remove the dry clutch with the engine still in the frame, or out of the frame ?? I have a clutch holding tool, & was thinking it might be easier to undo the centre nut with the engine still bolted to the frame, (because of the torque involved in loosening it off !!), rather than trying to do it with the engine rolling around on a bench !!    Anyone have a better/easier way without resorting to "rattle guns" ??, or is the latter the best option, once it's out the frame ??              Thanks in advance, Wullie.   -------------- Just when I'm about to make ends meet, someone moves the ends !! Back to top

Warwickb Group: Members Posts: 1911 Joined: Sep. 2003 Posted: Nov. 27 2008,22:23 I always do 'em in the frame with the rattle gun (well in my case a little 12V impact wrench thing for wheel nuts). It'll be bloody tight I'd expect. Doubt you'll shift it without the rattle gun. Centre nut is 29mm. make sure you've a good socket - ideally a rattle gun type. I've never had a normal socket shatter, but you might want to wear goggles just in case if using a normal socket... You'll need a new tab washer for the re-assembly. I'd whack the sprocket nut off with the gun at the same time - 32mm I think. Trying to wrestle either of those  buggers off on the bench is much harder work I'd say. -------------- A garage overflowing with old stinkers... Back to top

wullie3XV9 Wullie3XV9 Group: Members Posts: 293 Joined: June 2008 Posted: Nov. 27 2008,22:41 Cheers Warwick, as reliable as ever. Are you sure it's 29 mm for the centre nut ?? Was at the local Halfords recently & couldn't find a 29mm socket, everything but a 29 !! Asked an assistant, (mid to late 40s male, NOT a "youth" !!) & was told you can't get a 29 mm. Any chance you meant a 30 mm ?? As a "civvie" working on an RAF base, It'll be easiest to remove the engine & take it to the MT servicing section. They're bound to have a heavy duty "rattle gun" for undoing truck wheel-nuts !!                   Thanks again, Wullie.   -------------- Just when I'm about to make ends meet, someone moves the ends !! Back to top

jools Group: Members Posts: 1221 Joined: Oct. 2005 Posted: Nov. 27 2008,23:18 I have a 29mm socket so they are available - can't recall if thats the size though - ?? I use a lclutch ocking tool and an 18" 1/2" drive breaker bar to release these nuts. Its easier in the frame but is not impossible on the bench. Having said that I always removethe motor as a unit and strip it down on the bench. Reverse for assembly. However the final drive sprocket nut is best loosened and tightened in the frame with chain fitted and back brake on. Its almost impossible to shift on the bench without breaking something. Yamaha actually recommend the use of a piece of aluminium flat stock wedged in the final drive gears.................. I have used this method on my LC when all else fails and as long as you clean any mashed ally from the gears it works perfect. -------------- "The only thing worse than being talked about is not being talked about...." oscar Wilde Back to top

Warwickb Group: Members Posts: 1911 Joined: Sep. 2003 Posted: Nov. 27 2008,23:24 Yes, pretty sure they are 29 stock, Wullie. I had to order one specially... 28 wouldn't go on and a 30 was too sloppy a fit for my liking. If you get desperate I could mail you mine up. You/the boys at the base may find an old imperial socket that will fit well enough though... -------------- A garage overflowing with old stinkers... Back to top

wullie3XV9 Wullie3XV9 Group: Members Posts: 293 Joined: June 2008 Posted: Nov. 27 2008,23:45 O.K. Warwick, I'll have to look harder, maybe find a proper tool stockist locally. Cheers. -------------- Just when I'm about to make ends meet, someone moves the ends !! Back to top

STEPTOE Group: Members Posts: 158 Joined: Oct. 2007 Posted: Nov. 28 2008,00:06 dunno if its relevant, but is deffo 29mm on the 3ma, I had to order a decent impact one, cost nearly a tenner, but well worth it Id say. -------------- viva la revolucion  !!  suck squeeze bang blow Back to top

wullie3XV9 Wullie3XV9 Group: Members Posts: 293 Joined: June 2008 Posted: Nov. 28 2008,00:39 Thanks guys.  Jools, your trick with the lump of alloy. I used to do something similar, but with a U.K. one pence piece jamming up the primary gears !! Was always worried about breaking gear teeth off though. But I'm a proper growed up aircraft maintenance engineer now. I try to avoid bodging now as much possible !! It can get expensive, if you know what I mean. But, if a lump of alloy's good enough for Yamaha san, it's good enough for me. Now, where's that old bent penny of mine ??                           Yours, by the book, Wullie.   -------------- Just when I'm about to make ends meet, someone moves the ends !! Back to top

jools Group: Members Posts: 1221 Joined: Oct. 2005 Posted: Nov. 28 2008,21:50 I use (if I have too !!) a bit of 15mm x 3mm flat stock aluminium from a local hardware shop. They sell various sizes of aluminium bars, tubes, rods and extrusions which always come in handy - pitty I can't weld alloy !!! -------------- "The only thing worse than being talked about is not being talked about...." oscar Wilde Back to top

wullie3XV9 Wullie3XV9 Group: Members Posts: 293 Joined: June 2008 Posted: Nov. 28 2008,22:20 Thanks for the above Jools.  Warwick, found a 1 & 1/8 th inch socket at work thats a lovely tight fit for my clutch centre nut. Would 'ave had a crack taking it off with my 18 inch Tommy bar, which I took into work with me, but, in my half asleep state first thing this mornin', I forgot to lift my clutch holding tool !!. DOH !!  Anyhoo !, removed the springs & pressure plate, took out the plates, & found the fibre friction plates are virtually down to the bottom of the grooves between the segments of fibre !! Anyone in the U.K know roughly how much it'll be for a set of DRY clutch friction plates ??, ( NOT the steel ones !! ) The steel ones are a bit "blue", (overheated ?). I take it that if they're not warped, they'll be O.K. to put back in ?? There's no visible wear on them either. Thanks for all the input guys, it's appreciated.   Edited 21:26,  1st Dec. '08. -------------- Just when I'm about to make ends meet, someone moves the ends !! Back to top

Warwickb Group: Members Posts: 1911 Joined: Sep. 2003 Posted: Nov. 28 2008,23:16 If I remember correctly, the plate that has the damper rubbers on is about 20 quid (doesn't come with the damper rubbers so either recycle your existing ones or remember to order new ones). The other fibre plates are about 8 quid each (x4 of them). Springs are a couple of quid or so each, so are prob worth doing at teh same time.  Steel plates are lilkely to be fine. A bit of a light scuff up with emery or a scotchbright pad might be a good idea though. If the pressure plate bearing is shot they are a common size so easy enough to source from any bearing place. You'll have to use oem Yam plates though I suspect as there are no aftermarket ones available as far as I know. -------------- A garage overflowing with old stinkers... Back to top

wullie3XV9 Wullie3XV9 Group: Members Posts: 293 Joined: June 2008 Posted: Nov. 29 2008,00:04 Thanks again Warwick. I examined the four rubber dampers this morning & they're in good condition. Checked the condition of the pressure plate sealed thrust bearing as well, feels nice & smooth when spun, with the bearing centre held with finger & thumb. So, thats one plate at £20 quid, another four at £8 quid each, plus 5 new springs at £2 quid each  =  OUCH !!                           Yours, saving up, (again !!), Wullie. -------------- Just when I'm about to make ends meet, someone moves the ends !! Back to top

Warwickb Group: Members Posts: 1911 Joined: Sep. 2003 Posted: Nov. 29 2008,00:14 Those are just top of my head figures, Wullie. And it was a year or more ago that I bought any, so thay may be a bit more (or less) than that. The clutch pates are the least of your worries though. Wait 'til you want to put new pistons in it... -------------- A garage overflowing with old stinkers... Back to top

wullie3XV9 Wullie3XV9 Group: Members Posts: 293 Joined: June 2008 Posted: Nov. 29 2008,00:23 Already got them. Nigh on £70 quid for each piston !! ( swoon !!) no rings, gudgeon pin or small-end bearing, just the piston !! The parts I ordered for a complete top end overhaul came to nigh on £400 quid !!, hence my referance to saving ( again !!)   I don't remember thinking that pistons for my 2MA were expensive, & they came as a kit, (piston, pair of rings plus expander, bearing, gudgeon pin & a pair of circlips !!) £27-£28 quid each kit in 1988, if I remember correctly.                                        Yours, skint, Wullie.   -------------- Just when I'm about to make ends meet, someone moves the ends !! Back to top

Warwickb Group: Members Posts: 1911 Joined: Sep. 2003 Posted: Nov. 29 2008,23:41 You can still get aftermarket piston kits for the 2MA for around that price in fact... One of the less attractive aspects of living with a 3XV is that you are reliant on oem bits for a lot of service items. And they ain't cheap as you note. BDK actually list a 3XV piston kit on their replating page: http://www.bdkraceeng.co.uk/Replates.htm Listed as Prox kit by tghe look of things, but I've no idea what they actually send you? Or if they can provide both R and SP types. Quite a bit cheaper than oem 'seperates' though... -------------- A garage overflowing with old stinkers... Back to top

jools Group: Members Posts: 1221 Joined: Oct. 2005 Posted: Nov. 30 2008,02:41 Got to watch after market pistons these days ..... Pro X are supposedly ok but some of their cheaper subsidiary stuff is pretty suspect. LC pistons cracking after 3 race meetings is quite common place down here at the moment............. -------------- "The only thing worse than being talked about is not being talked about...." oscar Wilde Back to top

wullie3XV9 Wullie3XV9 Group: Members Posts: 293 Joined: June 2008 Posted: Nov. 30 2008,14:45 Thanks gents. Before I ordered genuine pistons, I had a good look on t'internet for piston kits, but couldn't find any listed for 3XVs. So, I "bit the bullet" & shelled out for a pair of genuine pistons, etc. Would you like me to post all the prices on here for current & future U.K. owners, even though it might put future owners off ?? !!     At least with the genuine pistons, they seem to be good quality, the only doubt, as we all know, being the top ring pegs !!, (or is it just Warwick thats unlucky ??).    Having examined the new pairs top ring pegs, even as new, the pegs don't protrude into the ring groove much !!                                     Regards, Wullie.   -------------- Just when I'm about to make ends meet, someone moves the ends !! Back to top

wullie3XV9 Wullie3XV9 Group: Members Posts: 293 Joined: June 2008 Posted: Dec. 01 2008,23:33 I dunno what I was worrying about !!  The clutch nut slackened off no problem with the 1 & 1/8th inch socket & my 18 inch breaker bar.    It took less effort than I thought it would be though !!       The timing rotor nut was effortless as well.  It'd been put on with NO thread lock !!   -------------- Just when I'm about to make ends meet, someone moves the ends !! Back to top

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