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Topic: 3XV compatible parts list< Next Oldest | Next Newest >
nronketti Offline
Licking the sticky bit of the performance envelope.




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Posted: May 28 2006,20:57 QUOTE

Is a 3XV axle nut the same as that from a Puch Maxi? Does it share piston rings with an RD80LC?

If you find any parts that are compatible, let the world know about it here. Ta to WarwickB for coming up with the idea.


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jools Offline





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Posted: May 28 2006,21:11 QUOTE

front Brake levers are a must - they don't make em like they used too  :p

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Mr stinkwheels Offline





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Posted: May 28 2006,22:29 QUOTE

See below for part numbers
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Warwickb Offline





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Posted: May 28 2006,22:32 QUOTE

Thanks for setting that up Neil. You are a superstar :cool:

Right post 'em up fella's. Anything and everything that is DEFINITELY tried-and-tested compatible with the 3XV and it's source. It may be from another bike or it may just be an easier, cheaper, more accessible source than the official part.

I'll start us off:

Brake line kits for the Aprilia RS250 fit well, but you need Yam compatible banjo's to fit them to the master cylinder and sumitomo calipers.

Jools i'm sure the brake lever is the same as used on the FZR400/600 of the same era, but I've only ever taken mine in to the shop and got a replacement pattern jobbie rather than a genuinine Yam' part.

Rgds

wb


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Mr stinkwheels Offline





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Posted: May 28 2006,22:32 QUOTE

Hi.
Here are the exploded diagrames of the 3XV-1 with some of the parts numbers. If you need a part number I have not included, send me an email and I will try to sort you out.

[B]






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pdxjim Offline





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Posted: May 30 2006,02:01 QUOTE

Front brake lever/perch/master cyl same as '03 Suzuki SV650.
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jools Offline





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Posted: May 30 2006,22:54 QUOTE

Removed Duplicate

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jools Offline





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Posted: May 30 2006,22:57 QUOTE

Nice one Jim

we need more of this cross model/marque compatability.

Neil

Is it it possible to create a spreadsheet type of forum page where users can input data direct and append as we go ? like an open spreadsheet sort of thing ?

ie Brake lever:::Part No:::Same As (make:model):::Year

Jools


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honkdawillydahonk Offline





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Posted: June 09 2006,15:11 QUOTE

I've got a good one for you all.... Just replaced the dust seals on my 3XV calipers. Didn't need fluid seal so I went to my local spares place and matched up a set of Kawasaki ones. £3.35 each - A bit cheaper than Yamaha. Part numbers are 43049-1055 (small piston) & 43049-1057 (large piston) BTW - Warwick please cancel my order for dust seals from your place... :D

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Warwickb Offline





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Posted: June 10 2006,00:38 QUOTE

Lol. No problem, Adam (I'd forgotten actually). They are the self same ones I got tho' The guys who run the shop I use (Bitzabikes in Taunton) are fantastic. Real old school. I just take stuff in from the 3XV and they have a root around and 9 times out of ten they find a compatible part.

They are truly Solid Gold. And worth a thousand of your sanitised-corporate-eat-your-dinner-off-the-marble-tiles bike franchises you tend to get nowadays.

Popped in today and one of the guys was a bit down as he'd just stood on one of 'kids' of the family of dormice that have taken up residence under the counter. My kind of fella's...

C'mon then, lets have some more teaser piccies!

Rgds

Wb


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ybk Offline





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Posted: June 13 2006,08:46 QUOTE

I've got genuine yamaha's on order that cost a fortune - $200NZ or something. I couldnt believe it :(
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Mr stinkwheels Offline





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Posted: June 27 2006,22:30 QUOTE

Rider foot pegs left and right are the same as the Yam R1  4XV which i think is the 97-99 model.
Almost identical.
You can not get the 3XV type new anymore.
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Warwickb Offline





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Posted: June 27 2006,23:20 QUOTE

Pillion pegs too I think - which, incidentally, can be made into front pegs with a bit of milling/filing out of the centre part of the 'blocky bit' (technical term) that the pivot pin goes through. Early R6 pillion pegs are actually marked 3XV if I rememder rightly.

Wb


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China_Racer_1 Offline





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Posted: June 28 2006,09:35 QUOTE

Are those pegs made of Aluminum?  If so I bet my cnc guy can copy the ones I have ad you cn have direct replacements.  Though he may ant to make them round like teh Coearse rear set ones I have.

What do you think?  he needs to make pegs for me on some other projects I will be starting soon anyway.

Let me know.  he has my pegs in his hands right now.

You guys need to remember what cost you a bundle of quid there is chicken feed here.

My CNC guy works cheap at local wages
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Warwickb Offline





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Posted: July 20 2006,13:09 QUOTE

Replacing the fork seals/dust seals – 3XV

1) TAKE THE FORKS OFF THE BIKE.

2) POP OUT THE DRAIN BOLT FROM THE BOTTOM.

3) DRAIN AS MUCH OIL AS POSSIBLE

4) PRISE UP THE OLD DUST SEAL WITH A LITTLE SCREW DRIVER.

5) POP OUT THE ‘WAVEY’ SEAL RETAINING CLIP.

6) YANK ON THE LEGS (PULLING APPART) A FEW TIMES; THE SEAL AND ITS SUPPORTING WASHER SHOULD POP OUT OF THE UPPER LEG BIT.

7) REMOVE THE TWO METAL SLIDE/BUSH THINGS AND CHECK THEIR CONDITION – REPLACE IF THEY LOOK WORN.  SLIDE OFF OLD SEAL.

8) CLEAN FORK LEGS

9) PUT A SINGLE LAYER OF INSULATING TAPE OVER THE LITTLE HOLES IN THE FORK LEG, SO YOU DON'T SCREW UP THE NEW SEAL WHEN FITTING.  OIL UP THE LIPS OF THE NEW SEALS AND SLIDE ON.

10) REMOVE TAPE.  PUT BUSH/SLIDER THINGS BACK ON AND THE WASHER FROM UNDERNEATH THE SEAL)

11) PUT LOWER BACK INTO UPPER, TAP IN THE BUSH WITH A TOOL, OR A BLUNT SCREWDRIVER.  GENTLY!

12) DO THE SAME FOR THE SEAL.  PUT RETAINING CLIP IN. THEN DUST SEAL.

13) PUT DRAIN BOLT BACK IN THE BOTTOM.  AS THIS BOLT ALSO HOLDS THE INTERNAL OF THE UPPER LEG TO THE LOWER LEG, YOU MAY FIND IT EASIER TO PUT THE DRAIN BOLT IN BEFORE YOU KNOCK THE SEALS IN.

NOTE!!  THERE IS A LITTLE CAP THING (#11 ON THE FORK PAGE OF THE BOOK) THAT GOES ON THE END OF THE DAMPER ROD (#12).  MAKE SURE THAT THIS THING IS THE RIGHT WAY UP IN THE BOTTOM LEG, OR WEDGE IT ON TO THE DAMPER ROD BEFORE YOU PUT IT DOWN INTO THE LOWER LEG.  #11 (WITH RICE AND PORK BALLS) WILL SOMETIMES FLIP OVER AND GIVE YOU GRIEF.

GOOD LUCK.

Apologies for the CAPITALS - Didn't have time to re-type

Rgds

Wb


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Warwickb Offline





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Posted: July 23 2006,13:27 QUOTE

3XV 'R' heavy duty clutch springs:

http://www.motorcycle-road-and-race.co.uk/catalog....=303467

Also repacement clutch plates for the R model too.

Wb


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cyclenut Offline





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Posted: Aug. 26 2006,20:36 QUOTE

3XV rear axle (20mm) is out of production.  I just fit a rear axle from a 2nd generation (2003) Suzuki SV650 and the length is perfect, as well as the diameter.

Make sure you get a 2nd generation one...the 1st generation ones are 17 mm.
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Warwickb Offline





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Posted: Aug. 27 2006,12:47 QUOTE

Quote (cyclenut @ Aug. 26 2006,19:36)
3XV rear axle (20mm) is out of production.  I just fit a rear axle from a 2nd generation (2003) Suzuki SV650 and the length is perfect, as well as the diameter.

Make sure you get a 2nd generation one...the 1st generation ones are 17 mm.

Good work, Erin. Did you get a picture of the part? Or can you take one of it fitted to the bike?. Is it similar in design to the Yamaha Item?

Cheers

Warwick


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cyclenut Offline





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Posted: Aug. 27 2006,18:19 QUOTE

Quote (Warwickb @ Aug. 27 2006,11:47)
Quote (cyclenut @ Aug. 26 2006,19:36)
3XV rear axle (20mm) is out of production.  I just fit a rear axle from a 2nd generation (2003) Suzuki SV650 and the length is perfect, as well as the diameter.

Make sure you get a 2nd generation one...the 1st generation ones are 17 mm.

Good work, Erin. Did you get a picture of the part? Or can you take one of it fitted to the bike?. Is it similar in design to the Yamaha Item?

Cheers

Warwick

Actually my Sony camera died this week...it won't boot up when you turn it on.

Once installed, the SV650 axle looks almost identical to the OEM 3XV one.   Both take a 22mm wrench and use a castle nut with cotter pin.   :)  :)
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jools Offline





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Posted: Oct. 18 2006,22:59 QUOTE

Just got my 3YL TZ250 frame from Okshon.
Only problem with it is a broken threaded mount, probably for the rearset bracket which is easily repairable.

I fitted the 3XV triple clamps to it without any dramas - in fact it looks like it was made for it as the lock restrictors work.

The 3XV swingarm fits perfect between frame rails using 3XV pivot shaft & bushes.
The bottom frame mount suspension link looks like it will fit ok with a gnats whisker taken off the bearing bush. i havn't checked the top mount yet but I'll keep you posted.


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bone Offline





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Posted: Nov. 22 2006,19:48 QUOTE

dont know if anyone else has posted this as i didnt read the whole thread........ive ysed 1989 yz125 pistons, they are single ring wiseco ones.good quality.

tony
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Warwickb Offline





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Posted: Nov. 22 2006,19:58 QUOTE

Good work.

Got a picture? It'd be interesting to see how the skirt cut-outs compare with the 3XV ones and what kind of crowns they have - flat or domed. Where's the ring end/peg? Does it miss all the ports?

Any info gratefully received

Cheers

Wb


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bone Offline





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Posted: Nov. 23 2006,01:08 QUOTE

they are identical warwick phisicaly but dont have the small hole in the rear of the piston and they are single ring.
luckily enough for us its the only yz piston that is identical
56mm bore and 50.6~50.7mm stroke.1989 was the only year that yamaha tried a domed piston,all other ones are flat top.
the ring gap does run into the rear transfer port but just dress the port properly and it shouldnt be a problem.
the full power cagiva mito runs exactly the same set up without any problems.

another part that i know is the same as the 3xv is the con rod for a yamaha tw175(i think thats what its called).
never seen one so i dont know what one looks like but was told its a jap market trail bike.

tony
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Warwickb Offline





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Posted: Nov. 23 2006,18:46 QUOTE

Thanks Tony. I wonder if the flat top ones are closer to the SP type then? The SP piston is effectively a flat top rather than the domed R type - designed to match the more TZ-like head of the SP with it's more defined and angled squish. I've used TZ pistons (with the peg running over the rear scavenge port) in the past. Like you say though, a bit of extra chamfering on the port and it's fine. May try some YZ ones myself next time. Did you drill them for the lube hole or leave as is?

Cheers

Wb


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bone Offline





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Posted: Nov. 23 2006,20:23 QUOTE

what about rgv ones they use a flat top and if you buy the rg125 fun pistons they are slightly stronger than rgv ones.
i have both in the shed il have a look in a mo........


tony
edit: i didnt drill the pistons but might do it when i strip the motor for the new crank this week.

a question for ya......my 3xv runs fine up to 3 1/4's throttle,when you give it the last quater throttle it kinda looses power,now me being a mechanic and all you thinks id know.lol
checked the usual stuff carbs etc and and was thinking more power jets or the solenoid activated jets. have you experienced anything like this before?

cheers man  
tony
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jools Offline





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Posted: Nov. 23 2006,21:11 QUOTE

What main jets are you running and how are your filters ?

try removing the airbox and see if it runs through the problem, may need to jet up a size if it does


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Warwickb Offline





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Posted: Nov. 23 2006,21:19 QUOTE

Is that in every gear or under sustained WOT, Tony? If it's going off when holding a full first thing I'd suspect is the little fuel filters in the carb intake stubs - easy to muiss when you overhaul the carbs. These get blocked with tank debris over time and don't flow enough fuel at WOT. Feels just like you're running out of fuel.  the solenoid activated air jets have more influence through the middle rather than at the top end I think and I've never had any problems with them on any of mine. Have you done a plug chop and checked that the needles are where they should be. 3XV's seem quite sensitive to needle position changes.

If its' stock though (esp with stock pipes), the power curve flattens off -even dipping a bit after 9.5k or so. Could it just be that that you're feeling? Some of them give another kick at 11 ish (on the tach) but some don't for some reason. If you could fling it on the dyno at work, you would prob get a better idea - and aslo have a base figure to pulverise with the tuning work :;):

Cheers

Wb


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bone Offline





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Posted: Nov. 23 2006,23:38 QUOTE

its in every gear warwick ive checked the carb inlets,i think john my apprentice ditched the filters at the track day as it was running like a sack of crap(if you remember).
funny thing is when i owned this bike when it first arrived in the uk i was a little gem,didnt miss a beat,since then every tom dick and harry has messed with it  :( .
i think il gonna just rebuild it from the ground up and go through everything.i know it needs the crank doing as its "rummbling"a tad.
i think the fact ive just looked at the air filters that john put in and they are a bit heath robinson if you know what i mean.
(bodged).
what is the standard needle position as i think hes messed with that too

cheers fella

tony
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Warwickb Offline





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Posted: Nov. 24 2006,01:22 QUOTE

Needle position depends on the year. If its a 91 the top one should be in the middle and the lower cyl' one notch lower. If its 92 then they are both in the middle

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jools Offline





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Posted: Nov. 24 2006,22:10 QUOTE

Dont mean to be picky but should this thread be in the compatability list ?? :;):

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Warwickb Offline





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Posted: Nov. 24 2006,23:01 QUOTE

Lol. It's just one of those that has 'wandered' a bit, Jools.

Fair point though, this kind of discussion would probably be more useful to others if it was in the general 3XV section.

Jools for forum prefect? :p

Best

Wb


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jools Offline





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Posted: Nov. 26 2006,06:36 QUOTE

Ha ha, didn't mean to piss on your fireworks, i'm the worse one for hijacking threads  :p

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ybk Offline





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Posted: Jan. 12 2007,09:36 QUOTE

Not a compatible part as such but I was bored and it may be handy ...just say if anything looks wrong

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gbowie Offline
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Posted: Jan. 13 2007,20:34 QUOTE

Hear!!Hear !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  JOOLS for President !!!

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jamietzr250r Offline





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Posted: Feb. 07 2007,00:54 QUOTE

re brake lines; have any of you heard about braided steel lines?? i have just put goodridge hoses on my bike (£87.00 from the nec bike show)
made to measure (in cm's) they came with my specified banjo bolts and new copper washers included.
best brake hoses on the market better than putting ANY rubber from any bike.!!!
had trouble getting the caliper bolts out so i had to grind them off. so i ordered blue titanium ones from pro bolt 1/10 the weight and look well smart.
new ebc hh pads aswell.
job done 1000% better braking.


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SuperMono Offline





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Posted: May 06 2007,01:54 QUOTE

Countershaft sprockets.
WR400 Yamaha 4 stroke dirt bike offers a wide choice.


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speedy500 Offline





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Posted: July 17 2007,14:15 QUOTE














thought you would find this interesting

RGV250 vs TZR250 3XV pistons
differance is about 0,3 mm ...RGV is taller (piston-edge)

cheers
M.
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skinuthbilly Offline





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Posted: Nov. 17 2007,18:32 QUOTE

jamie, i got steel braided lines on my 3xv front and rear,and double hh pads,strange how most of the 3xv's ive seen still have standard hose on the rear,at least the braided lines look better,if nothing else!!  :D (i've kept the standard banjo bolts,and other bits and bobs for now,but hopefully get a load of new ones at the nec!!) :laugh: (titanium sprocket nuts anyone??)  :p
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Warwickb Offline





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Posted: Nov. 17 2007,19:23 QUOTE

Not sure why others do it, but I deliberately keep a rubber hose on the rear of my 3XVs - even the track bike - because the 3XV rear brake set-up (if in good condition) is really very sharp indeed, and the last thing I want is more breaking power getting through to the rear pads. Those ancient spongy old lines are just the job for taming it a bit. I tend to run non-sintered pads at the rear too for the same reason. I like a dab of rear now and then, but not too much  :;):

Cheers

Wb


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jamietzr250r Offline





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Posted: Nov. 17 2007,19:53 QUOTE

Quote (Warwickb @ Nov. 17 2007,17:23)
Not sure why others do it, but I deliberately keep a rubber hose on the rear of my 3XVs - even the track bike - because the 3XV rear brake set-up (if in good condition) is really very sharp indeed, and the last thing I want is more breaking power getting through to the rear pads. Those ancient spongy old lines are just the job for taming it a bit. I tend to run non-sintered pads at the rear too for the same reason. I like a dab of rear now and then, but not too much  :;):

Cheers

Wb

maybe mine didn't feel sharp enough!
all i know is 'i' am happy with my set up, thats the beauty of biking even with the same models people prefer there own set up :D


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Warwickb Offline





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Posted: Nov. 17 2007,21:40 QUOTE

Sorry Jamie, perhaps that was a bit unclear. I only meant I'm not sure why others keep the rubber hoses, not why they fit braided... For aesthetics etc. I'd rather have braided lines all round on mine, but I wouldn't want the accompanying increased braking forces at the rear. Like you say though, that's a matter of personal preference to an extent.  Maybe I could fit 'em and just not bleed them fully to build in a bit of 'give' :D. Oddly though a mate of mine's 3XV rear brake is considerably less effective than mine even though he does have braided hoses all round ???. His caliper and master cylinder are recently re-furbed too, so we can't work that one out at all ???. All of mine feel if anything too sharp with the old stock rubber ones so I daren't risk fitting new braided ones instead.

Hope that's more clear.

Cheers

Wb


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skinuthbilly Offline





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Posted: Nov. 18 2007,21:32 QUOTE

i've never had a bike that feels too sharp with the standard hoses fitted,the rear on my 3xv doesnt really feel that much different, well, ok, maybe a little, but nothing drastic...just dont press the pedal so hard?
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STEPTOE Offline





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Posted: Nov. 18 2007,23:04 QUOTE

agree with skinutbilly, just dont press the pedal so hard.! why u think every racer uses braided? BETTER feedback/feel, and thats what its all about, knowing how much rear brake ur using, me personally, I never use the rear enough, only to stop the back from floating, thats prob why I was/am never fast enough to race competitively. but as has been said, personal opinion makes for confidence, CONFIDENCE=SPEED.

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Warwickb Offline





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Posted: Nov. 18 2007,23:38 QUOTE

Lol. that's kind of the point. I've never felt the rear lacking - almost too good in fact. And because I rarely use it other than to calm the rear down a touch going into bends (on the track) I just personally wouldn't want it being any more 'direct' in feel than it already is with the old rubber hose in situ. It's not an issue for me, and I just tend not to make mods of any kind unless I feel that I could really benefit from the results. That's the reason my track 3XV still runs completely stock R type suspension. It's still better than I am, so why throw Ohlins or whatever at it until I feel that the suspension is a limiting factor? I've done a number of trackdays where you see all the lads with the Ohlins this, titanium that on their big fours, but those boys are usually dog slow, because they've never learned how to really ride a bike properly, and make the most of limited power, dubious handling or whatever.  They seem to just think that throwing expensive components at it ('hey, it's just like Rossi's') means they are going to go quicker, when in fact if they put the big bike away and took an old RD125 round they'd prbasbly improve their lap times much, much more than just reaching for the credit card.

'Course, on the other hand it could just be that I'm a tightwad Yorkshireman of course :laugh:

Mr Scrooge


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jamietzr250r Offline





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Posted: Nov. 19 2007,00:27 QUOTE

too true, i have never understood all this suspension set up stuff! i just get on and ride. the limiting factor for me is bottle, that is i never ride beyond what i know i can feel/do, the bike still scares me a little (really), when i can ride it without the sacredness then i know i'm in trouble. do you know what i mean?

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jools Offline





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Posted: Nov. 19 2007,04:10 QUOTE

Thats true and for road use an Ohlins set up is a waste of money. Its the bling factor for the Sunday Joe that has more cash than sense.

On the track its a little different. We need to keep the tyres in contact with the surface as much as possible. ie braking on a bumpy surface into a hairpin for example.

My racetech modded SP rear shock is much better than my stock R shock but nowhere near my mates Ohlins under these conditions. However you can get lost in the adjustability if you don't know where you are heading............


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Warwickb Offline





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Posted: Nov. 27 2007,21:57 QUOTE

Quote (jamietzr250r @ Nov. 18 2007,22:27)
when i can ride it without the sacredness then i know i'm in trouble. do you know what i mean?

Lol. And Martin77 reckons I have an indeceent level of almost religious zeal for the 3XV :laugh:

But, yes, I do know what you mean. I have the scars and aching bones to remind me what happens when you think that you have the total mastery of a bike :O

Cheers

Wb


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STEPTOE Offline





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Posted: Nov. 27 2007,23:42 QUOTE

agree with most of whats been said about standard stuff(with limitations), just have a look at most of the guys racing the Manx Grand Prix, some really fast guys(but on a budget!), and if mostly standard suspension(with a few tweaks) is good enough for them,,,,, well..... more than good enough for me! :D

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jools Offline





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Posted: Nov. 28 2007,22:36 QUOTE

Some very established suspension guru told me a while back that unless you are at the pointy end of the field in serious competitions, the standard TZ suspension (from the V twins perspective) is good enough.
I have also heard guys on the TZ250 forum state this.

I keep looking at Ohlins stuff that appears on ebay etc but I keep telling myself it wouldn't make a blind bit of difference to me coz I don't have the knowledge, time or inclination to set it up properly. We don't have a suspension tech to refer to and to be honest I would have a job interpreting exactly what is happening on the bike.
I tweak my Racetech SP rear shock to suit my weight and clicked the rebound a bit till I was happy how it felt. it has stayed there most of the year and I know how it feels so ride around any shortcomings.


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skinuthbilly Offline





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Posted: Dec. 02 2007,01:47 QUOTE

i used to run all my race bikes on standard suspension(250lc,250 mk3 gamma,rs125honda,aprilia 125)never had any trouble at all,just as long as theyre set up properly that is.same with my 3xv, stock front and rear,handling's not the problem,top end speed is though!! NEED MORE SPEED!!   :laugh:
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Warwickb Offline





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Posted: Dec. 02 2007,13:50 QUOTE

Try 15/38 final gearing. It'll give you a useful little increase in top speed without a too-noticeable lack of drive off the bottom, and a fit but stock motor should pull that gearing fine.  Get the motor sorted and ported and it'll be even better.

Cheers

Wb


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skinuthbilly Offline





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Posted: Dec. 02 2007,16:34 QUOTE

15/38? my bike was running 14/38, isnt stock gearing 14/37? i always prefer to change the rear rather than the front,was thinking of going back to standard. sorted and ported,i like that, lol! wonder if martin is still interested in porting it for me....
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Warwickb Offline





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Posted: Dec. 02 2007,23:47 QUOTE

Yes, stock is 14/37. I find 15/38 gives a good compromise. Gives better top end speed as long as the motor will pull it (mine would when it was stock - just struggling sometimes to get above 11,500 if conditions/gradients were against it) Also gave a smoother, kind of 'stretched' powerband, but with no really noticeable loss at the bottom. If you've already got a 38 rear to hand, a 15 front will cost you about a fiver (same sprocket type as the 2MA) to try it and see how it suits you. I guess you'd end up with very similar final ratio with a 14/35 set-up if you prefer to keep a 14 on the front, but rears are of course much more expensive to experiment with if you find it doesn't suit.

Cheers

Wb


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jools Offline





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Posted: Dec. 04 2007,00:21 QUOTE

Try 16/38 with an SP gearbox...............Not for city rides  :D

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skinuthbilly Offline





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Posted: Dec. 04 2007,22:00 QUOTE

i reckon the standard 14/37 will push it close to 130mph...even more so if martin attacks those ports with his black and decker........  :D
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jools Offline





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Posted: Dec. 04 2007,22:38 QUOTE

Just imagine what 16/38 will give you............... :p

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Warwickb Offline





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Posted: Dec. 04 2007,23:52 QUOTE

Maybe - if you fit 19 inch rims, Ian! :D. A stock 3XV is ideally geared for about 180kph (or 112 MPH) as sanctioned by Jap law at the time. A good stock motor will often get you to 190 or even 195 though if you rev it  past peak (on the stock gearing) and you've dealt with the speedo restrictor gizmo. You should be able to see more with taller gearing of course - if you can gain the revs.  

Surely Tuned or 'de-restricted' they will also pull the same speed at the same revs as a stocker if running the same gearing?  It'll just get there quicker and with more 'shove'.  You will only get more actual speed with either more revs on the stock gearing - or pulling taller gearing at the same revs.  

At least that's my (very) rudimentary understanding of physics. I did fail my O level, mind... :D

Jools. Does the 16 go on without fouling the case, then? I have one, but have never tried fitting it because it looks as though it would push the chain against the crankcase casting. That and the fact that that would be some bloody tall gearing :;):  Where do you run that, Philip Island? At smaller tracks you'd barely get out of 4th I reckon ???.

Cheers

Wb


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jools Offline





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Posted: Dec. 05 2007,02:58 QUOTE

Quote (Warwickb @ Dec. 04 2007,21:52)
Surely Tuned or 'de-restricted' they will also pull the same speed at the same revs as a stocker if running the same gearing?  It'll just get there quicker and with more 'shove'.  You will only get more actual speed with either more revs on the stock gearing - or pulling taller gearing at the same revs.  

Jools. Does the 16 go on without fouling the case, then? I have one, but have never tried fitting it because it looks as though it would push the chain against the crankcase casting. That and the fact that that would be some bloody tall gearing :;):  Where do you run that, Philip Island? At smaller tracks you'd barely get out of 4th I reckon ???.

Cheers

Wb

Yes Warwick your faculties are still in order  :D

The 16 fits ok, you can't put the chain over it very easily from memory, you have to either put chain on sprocket then put sprocket onto shaft if its endless, or as i run a heavy duty non o ring split chain - feed it around.

I think I could even squeeze a 17 on if I had one.

I use 16/37 for Eastern Creek as its the highest gearing I have but I could still run a 17 front with a 38 or 39 I reckon.
Shorter circuits I run 16/40 which is pretty close for Wakefield and Oran Parks. If I could get out the last turns better it would need to go 16/39 at least.

This baby stonks - VFR400's look like they are in reverse on a straight drag onto the straighaways, and holds its own with most TZ's,  600's and some 750's providing the straight isn't too long.


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ybk Offline





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Posted: Dec. 05 2007,06:24 QUOTE

More compatible parts... it seems SP/SPR fork seals are the same as WR200 seals. Dimensions 41:53:9
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skinuthbilly Offline





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Posted: Dec. 06 2007,17:32 QUOTE

what difference will one tooth of the back make? thats what ive been trying to say,that ive been running 14/38, and reaching just over 120MPH, so, if i go back to (stock) 14/17,how much will the top end increase by? dont ask me why it was running 14/38, thats how it was when i bought it!!
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