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thanks for pm, replied

luke, lowering the needle is a mission, but worth a try in your case, just check they are both the same needle and same position, after dropping it will no doubt make a massive diffrence. if it sounds tinny its too lean, watch out higher up again.

Great info thanks.

Good and bad news:

Good: I disconnected my powervalve cables and left the valve in closed position. Went for a ride and she pulls cleanly through to 7000rpm(almost perfect, still noticed one or two slight splutters)

Bad: that means my powervalve isn't working properly. What is happening is as soon as the bike warms up the powervalve gets stuck in the open position and doesn't move. that's why my 5500-7000rpm rich spot is so bad. When I then turn the valve into open position the bike is rich as usual from 5500-7000rpm.

And now my battery has gone flat because the servo motor has been drawing so much power. Or at least I hope that's what has happened and my stator coils are not buggered. I have done 110km since I put the battery in. would a battery ever be able to last that long without a charge being sent to it?

If someone could please do a test to see how much resistance there is when manually turning the PV disc from open to closed when the bike is cold and then hot that would be a great help. my valves moove quite freely when the bike is cold but get a bit sticky and rough once the bike has warmed up. It is still fairly easy to turn the disc by hand though. The gearing ratio on the servo is very low so it shouldn't struggle with that much load. although I cant be certain.

If worst comes to worst then out comes the motor and the top end just to get them out

I disconnected my powervalve cables and left the valve in closed position. Went for a ride and she pulls cleanly through to 7000rpm(almost perfect, still noticed one or two slight splutters

That has a lot to do with the lowering the exhaust port. The pipe sucks the fuel on a lower rpm, that rpm is more closer to the trouble zone.
That's way you will feel it less.

but get a bit sticky and rough once the bike has warmed up. It is still fairly easy to turn the disc by hand though

If its still easy to turn by hand if it is warm, then a pv motor should not have that much problem with it.
As it has what you say, ''The gearing ratio on the servo is very low'' that is correct.

Reading this, i'm starting to think the problem could be the pv motor self, that when it is worming it self up (by the turning)
It is getting in trouble.

You can try the 3ma3 pv motor, they are the same.
Just a idea.

Regarding your rich spot,
As you ar new to the 3ma, belief me (or the others) that the rich spot you have is not un common with the 3ma.

One thing you can try is, If you rev it up high (get it in the power band) and brake fast after that to around 4000rpm.
Do this cycle two times (accelerate full, and braking (hard))
Then you will see that if you will accelerate the third time you can start with 4000rpm all to the red line without any hesitation

It all has to do with build up fuel (typical 3ma engine design)
The one way valves are there to make it Less they will not solve the problem completly.
The airjets are original put in place fore the environment rules, but du the 3ma problem (rich spot) they are developed further to help in that rpm range.

Ones you have driven your 3ma Manny times you will get a feeling to by pass that problem by throttle play
Like Ndwedwe has write.

What a bike we have

Hi Luke;

No need to stress to much on the pwervalve even if you grease it the grease will work out in 100km and you will be back to where you are now. I agree with louis it must be the motor. When you went out with the pv closed were you able to hit 11500 rpm? I do have a spare servo motor here somewhere of which the wiring have been cut if you need one.

If you decide to grease use molybdendum grease midas will have or also known as non melting grease my rz 500 manual prescribes it.

Edd

Hi Louis;

Reading this, i'm starting to think the problem could be the pv motor self, that when it is worming it self up (by the turning)
It is getting in trouble.

You can try the 3ma3 pv motor, they are the same.
Just a idea.

Ok yes well before I take the engine apart I will pop my 3ma3 servo in and see as a last chance.(hopefully it works)

As you ar new to the 3ma, belief me (or the others) that the rich spot you have is not un common with the 3ma.

Yup, I figured

One thing you can try is, If you rev it up high (get it in the power band) and brake fast after that to around 4000rpm.
Do this cycle two times (accelerate full, and braking (hard))
Then you will see that if you will accelerate the third time you can start with 4000rpm all to the red line without any hesitation

Will definitely try that that thanks.

Ones you have driven your 3ma Manny times you will get a feeling to by pass that problem by throttle play
Like Ndwedwe has write.

that is definitely what I don't want. she must be perfect.

thanks Louis for the info.


Edd;

When you went out with the pv closed were you able to hit 11500 rpm?

not at all, you cannot get past 8000rpm, as hard as you try you just need the pv to be open or at least slightly open.

I do have a spare servo motor here somewhere of which the wiring have been cut if you need one.

Thanks for the offer Edd, but I will try my 3ma3 servo first

If you decide to grease use molybdendum grease midas will have or also known as non melting grease my rz 500 manual prescribes it.

will keep that in mind .

That's not bad news man! Reading your PM, i thought you had done a maccas or louis or Ndwedwe and pulled your top end through your @rse!!
PV's need to be given fresh bushes every 20 years or so. Lol. Otherwise the gunky oil makes them stiff. An engineering shop can turn them up for you out of brass. Take your valves and cyls in. Custom are better than bought.

Hi Luke;

Thanks for confirming my problem hitting 8000 rpm wall so my power valves are still not 100% will have to remove exhausts and set them properly . If you want the size on the bush not sure if there is more than one but I did keep rcord of the bush specs so if you need I will post it.

Edd

The problem is guys and I haven't mentioned this before, maybe I should have, is that I have had new bushes engineered already.

Just a thought" the bushes that were engineered have a very small tolerance so the heat from the engine when it warms up could be expanding the bushes and causing them to get tighter on the PV's, although they are not much tighter once the bike is warmed up they are only a bit rough and sticky.

I have changed the servo motor but I couldnt take the battery to be charged because the shop was closed and will be for tomorrow as well : . So no testing until Mon unless I can put some charge back into the battery by riding it fast.

Ndwedwe;

If you see a whole page full of these faces then you know I have seized the motor, which wont happen.

a battery charger and a battery conditioner are 2 must-haves.
bushes sound tight, it's a shame to strip for that alone. take the cables off and use a t-bar to turn them forwards and backwards, do the same after a warm up.
are you running premix? also remember you were very rich which could have built up gunk in there.

Help me out here battery conditioner? I use c-tec charger as you have the plug connected to your battery and you just blug in the charger without removing the battery does that charger also do the conditioning?

Edd

Edd wrote:Help me out here battery conditioner? I use c-tec charger as you have the plug connected to your battery and you just blug in the charger without removing the battery does that charger also do the conditioning?

Edd

dunno boet?? a conditioner is a R150-200 jobbie that just keeps the battey up there at optimum level without fully charging it. when a battery is wired to your bike it is drained ever so slightly. i have 2, both do the same thing. try a radio shop.

a battery charger and a battery conditioner are 2 must-haves.

one day

bushes sound tight, it's a shame to strip for that alone.

Yes I know. but thats not the bad part, the gaskets are , or do you think the head gasket is re-usable?

are you running premix?

yes until I get an oil tank.


The battery is now in charging

She is looking very bare at the moment

Hello Luke,

Looking to your picture and spotted (if I'm right) the long hose that goes to the R reed rubber then to the L reed rubber.

If that is right, you can ditch that by swaping the reed rubbers from L to R and use one of the alu tubes to connect them.

Most of the 3ma riders ride like that.

Hi Luke;

The top gasket is re-useable in my view if you have only done a few km's. I will be re-using all my gaskets only done about 10km's with those gaskets. Will be stripping mine tomorrow.

Edd

Ha Ha Louis well spoted. That is actually my water overflow tube for the moment whilst I don't have a water tank( I think that's what your pointing to) But yes I will do that. My 3ma3 reed rubbers have a joining bit in the middle will check that out.

Hi Edd, I have done 110km, what do you think re-use or not?

luke
i know you're not asking me but, at R500 a shot, i would try every other thing first.
the 3ma PV's split in the middle so you could extract the outer half of each one. i would put a spanner like i explained earlier with cables off. this is also a good way to test servo, does it move nicely un-connected?
reason i asked premix is there is no doubt a lot of gooie gink in there, esp the flooding you had.

Hi Luke

Agree with ndwedwe on the gaskets they are expensive definetly re-use. If the exhausts is of and they dont allign with one another like mine they must be diffrent. You can feel with your hands if they allign or not. Just make sure the pvs are set correctly as to determine which is the incorrect pv.

Edd

i know you're not asking me but, at R500 a shot, i would try every other thing first.

So you rate re-use, well I think so too, if it comes to that.

Here are a few vids of what it sounds like when cold. Very smooth and no load on the servo.

http://youtu.be/uJNcqhX_k9o

http://youtu.be/IE91372SRAU

http://youtu.be/O06fc0EhTHk


I have seen thanks Edd, the left is the 3ma3 PV.

Hi Luke;

The no 1 cable has some slack on it it only needs about 2mm of free play on both cables. But the pv sounds ok and looks ok for me maybe I am not seeing or hearing what you have explained. Stripped my bike down yasterday afternoon one hour 20 minutes maybe I can get a gig as a formula one engineer .

Edd