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Morning Guys;

The RZ 500 uses the same type of coil as described by motoholic. I tested my bottom coil as per my english manual and it requires you to take resistance readings between the two blade connestors primary coil and the two spark leads with caps removed and leads connected secondary coil. If any reading is out of spec coil is faulty. I also states readings to be taken at 20 degress celcius and you can have a 20 percent error both ways on primary wnd secondary resistance.

The 3ma maual gives you a top and bottom limit so you dont need the calculator. My 500 primary coil required resistance is 0.26 ohm with 20% up or down I got a reading of 1.2 ohm so I assumed faulty coil will test it as motoholic explained and see if their isnt any spark with plug removed and earthed. out comes the welding gloves

Edd

Thanks everyone for a stack of info and help, I now am no longer available for the rest of the day while I test "everything"

Let your logic flow.
Pickups to CDI.
CDI to coil.
Coil to plugs.
Voltage.
Amps.
If it's electrical the above should reveal.

The secondary winding is taken between the 2 HT leads

Just have to say thank you motoholic71 for saying that. That is the only combination I did not test. My coil is fine and I feel quite stupid right now

So, there is definitely some other problem.

Just a quick summary:
I am getting a reading from the pickup check
the kill switch is working check
the coil, HT leads and caps are working check
continuity between all the wires I could possibly check check
earthing points well connected and working check

will test side stand now
and then just the cdi is left

this list is not including all the little odd things I have tested and little odd things still to test.

Hi Louis

I checked for a ground signal from the 9 pin connector and 2 of the wires in the 9 pin connector give ground signals( the black wire and the green wire with blue stripe give ground signals)

Is that correct? or is there a short somewhere?

Luke

I'm sitting on my couch drinking Coffey

Black is mass (- from the battery) it should be there.

Don't know all the pin numbers from memory, looking at the wiring diagram green/blue could be coming from the speed limiter.
Don't know witch signal is should have (but tap or no tap, it should be running on that)

Think you have to focus yourself to follow your side switch standard wires and nutral to see where they come out.
Measure what signal you get with a closed standart and open standart (at least there should be a different signal coming from it)

Still thinking that the side switch standart should give a mass signal if it is closed (in) think its the blue/yellow one
If the blue/yellow is given a open signal (or non) the cdi is thinking it has a open standart, this in combination with a non functional neutral switch could give a problem. (as it could think you have it in gear)

Try if you can bypass the side standart, giving it a mass (check wat is should be, otherwise use a fuse to be sure)

Also check your neutral switch wire it could be a combination.

I have checked the side stand switch. it gives closed circuit when up and open circuit when down. So that is correct I believe.

If you want to take the sidestand switch out of the equation just disconnect at the block connector and make a simple wire loop or whatever to complete the circuit. I generally remove the sidestand switches completely from the TZRs myself.

If you want to take the sidestand switch out of the equation just disconnect at the block connector and make a simple wire loop or whatever to complete the circuit. I generally remove the sidestand switches completely from the TZRs myself.

I will do that just to be safe, although it seem as though the switch is working just fine.

I will try to find the neutral wires path in a minute.

Just wrap both sparkplugs in electric tape if you want to see a spark .
Like I said they need to be touching each other to work.
Your electric system is fine(for now)but something will go bad if you keep"testing"stuff that way
Best of luck

Just wrap both sparkplugs in electric tape if you want to see a spark .

Ok thanks, I will do that.

Is this the neutral switch?

It was not connected and hasn't been even when I rode the bike. the wire coming from it is a dark blue which is a one pin male. there is a light blue wire coming from the neutral light which has been cut off. this is the reason my neutral light has not been working isn't it. they should be connected to each other but the dark blue wire must be after market.

No need to answer my question, I connected them and whala neutral light behaving as it should. So it seems the only thing left is the CDI, which I have tried to test but got nothing although I am not sure that I am testing correctly. and I also have to buy a 3/4 or 1/2 drive to a drill converter so I can spin the stator at a greater power without it slipping in the drill.

[quote="Luke 3MA"So it seems the only thing left is the CDI.[/quote]

time to get a zeel???

Ha very funny.....R2500 later although 5-10hp later

i know, funny how though, you always will find the work to fit your needs. it is a must to go zeel on the 3ma, you will never look back.
i think edd is taking my spare next month so not like i am trying to sell you mine, i would like a few more of us out there, took me 8 months to perfect my 3ma and 63HP with std pipes and carbs and no porting or engine work whatsoever!! makes you think, all the hidden power waiting there in the wires of your bike.

It will have to be the next lucky 3ma that gets the zeel, because and I'm allowed to put that many smileys, after I fiddled with the neutral light and got it working I decided to check for a spark just to see and I did see a spark so if I can get her started will continue runing in and testing tomorrow

Super exited and would just like to say thanks to everyone who put in time and effort to help me with this problem. I really appreciate it guys.

Eina! Dont sell my zeel just yet. I have already started shopping for electric plugs.

Edd

Edd. Seriously, don't waste your time with plugs. Just solder it all together and tape it all up. It's neat and removes all doubt when you have problems like luke just did.
It is yours. First option as agreed. Next month. You are going to smile ear to ear. When you first start it and bike still in neutral, you can hear the difference. It is not strangled by ignition anymore. Oh well off to bed. Got to rebuild a 3xv in the am.

after I fiddled with the neutral light and got it working I decided to check for a spark just to see and I did see a spark

Great luke that you have found it , was it the neutral switch?? or the fiddling with the wires??