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I dont think I can answer that, because previously the neutral light wasn't working because the cable had been cut off, so I didn't know weather the switch was working or not. All I did was fiddle with the switch, put it back in, connect the "cut off" neutral wires and it worked. Im "guessing" it was the switch then.

Got home today and had just enough time to do the second stage of the run in.
I tried it a couple of times with the drill on the stator, then took the plugs out drained the bowls and kicked it until my leg was saw while the drill was cooling
put the plugs back filled the bowls and drilled for about 30sec and she started. And as far as I know she is not flooding any more because I can actually kick start her. So the lowered float levels seem to have worked (but I am not certain, will have to see tomorrow )

needles: middle position
main jets: 300's

outcome: she was no where near as rich as before but still too rich, So I will do the 3rd stage of the run in tomorrow 4000rpm for 15 mins, with the same settings just to finalise the symptoms and set her from there.

Excellent to be back on the road and testing again

Yeeehaaaa
Well done. Relief!
I think with your altitude you'll end up at 240 but 270 for now, perhaps.
Run one size bigger on RHS.

I still need to buy more jets. I only have 210, 260, 280, 300, 320. So I need the in-between sizes for the finer setting.

260 left 280 right
Then take it cheesy.

cheesy it will be then

3rd run in complete (300s)

4000rpm for 15 mins

rode smoothly at 3/4 throttle and below accept under load (eg wind, slight hill etc)
plugs look black and a bit oily

4th run in 5000rpm for 15 mins will be with 280s and we shall see what happens (will do the 4th run in this evening)

started first kick today, so Flooding problem is fixed!

4th run in half done

Hitting a major wall of a rich spot at 4500rpm. I have tried to get past it but just cant 4/4, 3/4, 1/2, 1/4 throttle but just cant. Its rich all the way up to 6000rpm, haven't tried to go higher because of running in.

I will put the 260s in and maybe try a 160 air jet instead of 130 if it is still to rich after trying the 260s.

Hi Luke;

Yip now you are entering the area where I am at. I suggest leave the 130 air with 260 mains keep her at 1/4 throttle once you hit the rich spot she will drive through it. I have 100 air with 240 mains needle clip at the top at 1200m above sea level no rich spot at 6000 rpm but way to lean over 7000. I am pulling the needle to middle and then see if she is better above 7000 rpm. The only way I think we will win is if we keep the rich spot or get diffrent needle jets as Louis sugested in a previous post. I have asked injapan a fellow member if he can help me but he hasnt read the pm yet so I am waiting will let you know if you are interested.

Hope you get success I am getting tired of removing carbs (3ma carbs that is). Now we can share set ups that will at least reduce carb removal statistically by 50%.

My problem is I have a 3ma3 rich at 8000 and the 3ma1 lean above 7000 rpm. But for now lets stick to the 3ma1 I dont want to confuse the issue.

We will prevail.

Edd

Honestly they are a bitch to get right
You have to stick to STD needles in middle position, they are highly sensitive to needle position, I could not get fak all out of mine one up or down, best to alter elsewhere. If you are fixed AJ you will find this easy. Put in a 1mm or 1.2 mm AJ to start. Get it so you can rise it into half throttle. Do a plug check here. If you cannot get into this range with the above settings your mains us too big. 3ma is seriously effected low through mid by mains. Lower your mains and get it si you can get through to half again.
Plug check with used plugs and do 2km runs holding it at half. Mark the position with tape on your grip etc. Change gears but keep it there and hold it in fourth.
When you are happy go up to 2/3 then 3/4. When 100% happy do short runs at wot and build it up.
Remember always one size richer on RHS.
This is my experience.
With STD CDI 260 might be too big. Good luck lads and enjoy.

Hi Edd

I have 3ma3 carbs with the 3ma3 needle and needle jet so I am cool on that, thanks for the offer.

I will try the 260s tomorrow with the needle in mid position and 130 air jets as a start and go from there. I still need to get the run in done before I can start testing throttle positions @ rev ranges etc, but need to at least be able to run the bike at 5000,6000,7000 rpm without stumbling along . hopefully I can get past 4500 rpm at 1/4 throttle with the 260s.

Hi Ndwedwe

I am ordering the jets tomorrow so I will follow your words and put one size bigger on RHS when they arrive of course.

Good luck lads and enjoy.

You can be sure I will enjoy every moment on a 3ma


I will hopefully make a camera mount soon so it becomes more interesting and fun for everyone.

Hi Luke;

Thought you had 3ma1 well that only means one thing I will be getting my 3ma3 ready first, recieved my fairings yesterday for the bike might as well get it sorted. My 3ma3 I am running 200 mains needle clip in the middle with 120 air jets fixed air screw 2 rurns. She is crisp and accelerates well up to 7000 - 8000 rpm then symptoms that is difficult to decribe not normal rich symptoms but I believe it is slightly too rich.

The thing is it gives the exact same symptoms at the exact same rev range with vaj system on and with fix air jet But it is early days only started two weeks back. My other (restored) 3ma3 has the exact same setup and she goes like a freight train Only diffrence is she has bosson pipes on .

Edd

Edd
Try 1mm AJ and post your findings.

Sorry Edd, I should have explained better. you have miss understood me, I meant I have 3ma3 carbs as spare so I can use the needles and needle jets from them in my 3ma1 bike and 3ma1 carbs

well that only means one thing I will be getting my 3ma3 ready first

back to your 3ma1 again then


The only 3ma3 part I am using on my 3ma1 is the usd forks.

5th run in @6000rpm done

with the 260s it was still rich no matter what throttle position, but It would only splutter when under load, so when I ride into the wind/up hill etc. But now at least I can finish the last run in @7000rpm and then start playing around at different rev ranges etc.

I have hit another small problem, the bowl overflow/drain screws are leaking, I have found no pattern what so ever. the one will leak while riding and then stop and the other will do the same at different times, even when I have stopped after riding one of them will leak and continue leaking until all my fuel is gone. and then the other will leak after the next ride, But they never leak at the same time and don't leak all the time either. I have put another float valve in the bowl from my 3ma3 carbs but it was no help. my float levels are also quite low.

any suggestions welcome.

Hi Guys;

Ndwedwe;

I will do a run on saturday with 100 air jets and let you guys know.

Luke;

Interesting so you are running q4 needle jets with 3ma3 needles Louis has suggested that in another post as well.
Float level like I said previously you will set those float levels a few times3-4, thats what I experienced on all of my bikes. If the float is to high the bike will also go rich and you might end up changing jets and it is the float levels that is affecting the bike. Best of luck 5-7mm above bottom bowl rim. Also use the best of the drain screws nice and sharp so it seals properly.

Edd

Hi Edd

I am using standard needles and needle jets at the moment.

I will check the float levels again and make sure, But I did set them very low to get rid of the flooding problem which it did. From what I understand, only higher float levels will cause an overflow not lower ones and I am quite sure that they are below the normal float height. (will double check though)

Just a small problem that needs fixing otherwise my fuel consumption will be 1km/l

6th and final run in half complete and guess why........ I ran out of fuel

I got up to 7000rpm OK, but was definitely rich.
But when I ran out of fuel the bike pulled perfectly all the way to 7500rpm and then out. Great happiness and suddenly all gone.

will complete the run in tomorrow and see if I can get it all the way up to 11500rpm, cant wait (real testing will begin as of tomorrow)

Edd; you said your 3ma1 hits a rich spot at 6000rpm, what throttle position does it occur at, and when does the rich spot end?

Hi Luke;

The rich spot occured at 5500 and lasted up to 7000 1/4 throttle I was able to drive through it 250 mains anything bigger I was stuck at 5500.

Initially we also thought electrical because the bike just cut out at 6000rpm then fires up again and so on. Then I removed vaj and it was the same with the 130 air jet fixed. Decided to rather get rid of the vaj and run this setup with fixed air jet.

A 3ma1 at altitude will run on 230 mains needle clip second from top and restrictions removed did two bikes with that setup no problem. 3ma3 will run 200 mains needle clip second from the top bosson pipes only done the one. So I thought its easy copy the setup on the 3ma3; except I now have 3ma3 pipes no restrictions removed as they are already removed at the factory . I question this as my pipes do have that lip inside the exhaust same as 3ma1. Another interesting fact when I removed the 3ma3 vaj with 120 fixed air jet the symptoms also stayed the same. This is leading me to believe maybe solinoids are not working tested them they were fine so maybe cdi is not giving a signal to the solinoids?

Any how lets get rid of the vaj as most people have suggested then I dont have to do electrics which I hate.

Edd

Luke;

PS carb float levels are crucial with setup min 5mm max 7mm according to manual.

Edd

Hi Edd

what you described is pretty much what is happening to me although I haven't tried to go past 7000rpm and can sometimes get up to 6500 with 3/4 and 4/4 throttle but only under no load, so that is basically irrelevant.

The VAJ system should lean the carbs out at 6000rpm more than the fixed 100-130 air jet would, So yes your electrics must be faulty and I agree, I very much dislike electrics too. My VAJ system was corroded and can not move at all so it definitely wont work for me.

I will set the float level to exactly 6mm just to be spot on according to the manual, hopefully it wont start flooding again, and hopefully it wont overflow any more.

I also have those thin pipes fitted, so I have no clue what they are like compared to originals.

thanks Edd for the info.


Luke