TZR Forum

These 2 have been standing for 10 years now and weren't stored correctly  :(

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/files/prjct/spr/IMG_0506.JPG)

Both are still very nice, just very dirty and some corrosion. The RS has only 3000km on it and what I think still the factory tyres from 1992  ::)

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/files/prjct/spr/IMG_0495.JPG)

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/files/prjct/spr/IMG_0497.JPG)

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/files/prjct/spr/IMG_0507.JPG)

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/files/prjct/spr/IMG_0247.JPG)

Unfortunately the tanks on both have rotten spots due to I think ethanol - I left the some petrol in them and stored them upright. There are actually pinky sized holes in the metal with only the paint covering them.

Apart from that the RS is very original, when last did you see the radiator cap stop and those exhaust rubber bump stops on a 3xv?  ;D

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/files/prjct/spr/IMG_0510.jpg)

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/files/prjct/spr/IMG_0509.JPG)

The SPR is also nice, a few scratches on the fairings and rough rims but nice and original for the rest. Glad I kept it after seeing what they go for in Japan nowadays  :o

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/files/prjct/spr/IMG_0496.JPG)

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/files/prjct/spr/IMG_0508.JPG)

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/files/prjct/spr/IMG_0253.JPG)

The idea is to clean up the RS, replace the probably-made-of-granite crank seals along with the brake system and fork seals. Not too much to do there, but it will have to wait until I find its papers which somehow got lost over the years. If I cant find them it will become the best looking track bike ever  :))

The SPR will undergo a full strip and freshen up with bits I've been collecting over the years. There's a spare SPR rolling chassis and motor:

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/files/prjct/spr/IMG_0505.JPG)

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/files/prjct/spr/IMG_0503.JPG)

Then something to make it more lively:

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/files/prjct/spr/IMG_0511.JPG)

And something to make it sound nicer courtesy of DFR:

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/files/prjct/spr/IMG_0558.jpg)

The Jackal cans came with it but I have the right ones as well:

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/files/prjct/spr/IMG_0559.jpg)

Tanks to replace the rotten ones:

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/files/prjct/spr/IMG_0601.JPG)

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/files/prjct/spr/IMG_0600.JPG)



Some SPR trivia

The SPR uses a different ignition barrel than all the other models. A much nicer one with a recessed key hole so they don't wear out as the others.

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/files/prjct/spr/IMG_0616.JPG)

And if you need a spare key for it this is the part number:

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/files/prjct/spr/IMG_0611.jpg)

The SPR uses slightly different chain adjusters than the SP and R and it also has no split pin in the axle  :P

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/files/prjct/spr/IMG_0614.JPG)

The SPR also uses different wheel spacers than the SP's. The spacers have an interference fit inside either the bearing or the inner metal tube. Easier on wheel changes but harder to replace bearings.

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/files/prjct/spr/IMG_0579.jpg)

End of trivia

Also got a front stand that hooks under the headstock, so much better than constructing contraptions to raise the front end for fork work or tyre swaps. The SPR hole size is 21mm which is smaller than the R type for anybody than needs the info. Oh and now I have a carpet in the garage haha 8)

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/files/prjct/spr/IMG_0589.JPG)

Well those are a couple of gems.  Nice stash of goodies for them as well.  Are you sure about the one being an RS, I see the dry clutch, but it looks to have R swingarm and forks on it?  Is the frame number RS?  My RS was a frankenbike when I got it, with all the good RS bits removed and replaced with R bits...motor, forks, swingarm, etc.   I'm slowly putting it back to RS

I think the 92RS had the R swingarm (choo-choo-train-spotter  ::))

Lovely bikes.

Lovely bikes indeed . That old tyre tread reminds me of the old BT56  (-P)

Quote from: yanw on April 11, 2018, 10:00:39 PM
I think the 92RS had the R swingarm (choo-choo-train-spotter  ::))

Hehe yeah me too, hard not become a trainspotter after all these years  ;D

The 3xv8 is the first RS and is basically a R with a dry clutch. The later RS's got the nice goodies  >:(

Let me know how the SPR is with all the goodies

LOL...sorry!  They are still lovely bikes  ^-^

Are you parting with those Jackal end cans?  I've got a set of Jackal pipes on mine, however one of the end cans was a rashed up.  I've since welded some Tyga mounting brackets on the pipes to mount Tyga end cans, but have always wanted a decent set of originals.  Wondering if they would bolt up to the Tyga mounts?  They are the typical 3 holed mount.

If you're interested in parting with them, let me know.  I still have one end can in the garage that I can test fit to my Tyga mounts.

Quote from: yanw on April 11, 2018, 10:00:39 PM
I think the 92RS had the R swingarm (choo-choo-train-spotter  ::))

Lovely bikes.

I've actually been on the lookout for Jackal pipes without cans to complete my set   :P :) But I'll give you first dibs if I decide to sell them (-P)

Quote from: ybk on April 19, 2018, 03:45:04 AM
I've actually been on the lookout for Jackal pipes without cans to complete my set   :P :) But I'll give you first dibs if I decide to sell them (-P)

Ah, a pipe hoarder huh?  just let them go...lol

QuoteAh, a pipe hoarder huh?  just let them go...lol

hehe, yeah bit of a hoarder  ^-^

The colors of Christmas:

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/files/prjct/spr/IMG_0697.jpg)

SPR grips are NLA but used on other bikes as well, these are the same but cheaper:

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/files/prjct/spr/IMG_0700.jpg)

Caliper piston removal pliers, this should make rebuilding calipers easier  ^-^

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/files/prjct/spr/IMG_0699.JPG)

Did you know you can get Yamaha OEM touch up paint? It actually arrived, silky white and vivid red cocktail  (-P)

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/files/prjct/spr/IMG_0698.JPG)

Damn i want that throttle tube  :'(

how did you manage to order the paint? Interested to find some, trying to keep mine original paint without doing any resto on them

Took a chance and ordered from Webike, they didnt complain and just sent it  (-P) Here's the part numbers:

90793-15001   SW
90793-15018   VRC1

Although in the meantime I found these guys that do tri-coat touch up paint, ie, base coat, color coat and clear coat. So you may get a better result. Still need to find out if they ship overseas:

https://touchupdirect.com/shop/touch-up-paint/yamaha-silky-white-sw-00ge/

You should take and copy the dimensions of that right throttle tube they are NLA new. Then maybe we can see about getting new ones 3d printed.

The tube comes with the grip, you can still order it. Theres quite a few other grip part numbers that still come with tube as well ( that i found while searching for the best priced replacement).
It was quite cheap as well.

Oh sweetness that's good news the 3xv part number on Yamaha japan website parts search was coming up nla. So the 98 thru 03 yzf600r will work then.

Yep, haven't compared them side by side but it looks the same. There are others as well, cant remember the numbers now but this also looks like it will do the job (from a Yamaha YBR I think)

Can you test fit it? I'd like to order one mine is a little worn and rattles on the bar.

Yeah ok, have to backpedal a bit. They are not the same sorry  :-[ I only wanted the grip so didn't worry about the tube.

It looks like you should be able to mod either of them to work but you'll lose a bit of leverage due to the hole being closer to the tube..(The ybr one may be a better match with its one hole but the stops might also be an issue)  :-\

Damn if could get the dimensions could get them 3d printed.

It is time for a TZ throttle

The (expensive)colors of Christmas in July:

oh and a tank derusting kit :) Getting everything ready beforehand, every time something is ticked off the list 2 more gets added :-\

My spr got it back together i put the boost bottles back on lubed the cables and connected the oil pump back up. Cleaned the carbs and new orings and gaskets in them.

Made sure everything was set like it should be set. Cleaned up the airboxes a teaser pic almost ready to start it and make sure it's running like it should be.

So far success it's passed it's first couple of start up tests and a couple quick runs around the neighborhood block.

It's running much better than when i first got it. It was a boggy mess off the bottom end it's not anymore! I did manage to rip it up to 10k a couple times briefly. It surprised me when i revved it up in first gear to 10.5k from a stop and it started to pull up into a small wheelie. I don't remember my vj22 or mc21 doing that as easily.

Just waiting on some led lights to come in before really riding it around more should be in by tomorrow.

It's all back together again and running  8)

There are few finer days than First Ride Day. Enjoy! 8)

Beautiful bikes! Enjoy. Andy. :)

Nothing exciting, just started stripping the spare SPR motor to see what it's like on the inside. It's a low km engine (6000km) that looks to have never been apart so I'm hoping for nice barrels and crank. It's been stood in the closet for the better part of 10 years, probably a while in japan as well. Last time this engine was a feature we were on the old old forum still.. :o

So here are a bunch of pictures of the engine coming apart:

Plumbing anyone?

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_1978-2.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/S5WS)

On the stand:

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_1980.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/nE4g)

The whole thing is very dirty, which actually saved the ally from oxidation. Some rust though:

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_1983.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/n4xm)

These heads don't look like they have ever been taken off:

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_1981.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/n824)

Something I've noticed on other engines as well, the 2 crankcase halves have markings on them. Has to be done by the factory to mark matching cases maybe?

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_2310.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/neeV)

Heads off, both look like this:

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_1988.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/n309)

Just dirty with no damage.

Barrels:

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_2202.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/nre7)

Both barrels appear OK, hard to get good pics but the cross hatching is actually good.

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_1984.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/noq2)

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_1986.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/nYQb)

Looks good, the marks are just carbon:

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_2204.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/nlD3)

and the other one:

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_2205.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/nbPL)

So far it matches a 6000km engine I'd say.

Clutch plates out:

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_2307.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/nfMp)

Next up, the countershaft sprocket that looks married to the shaft:

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_2375.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/nuBz)

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_2376.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/nsPj)

The junk looking tool for the job   :P :

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_2382.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/nQOU)

4 whacks and the nut happily gave up its hold:

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_2384.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/Spq6)

This impact driver really works well, looks and feels like cheap junk (was very cheap) but it's removed every nut its come across. This is the first 3xv engine that still has that little plate behind the sprocket?

The flywheel nut also quickly disposed of:

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_2410.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/STWD)

Clutch hub nut gone:

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_2428.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/S2Ma)

This one actually needed 1 more whack than the sprocket.

The dry clutch has a few more bits and seals than the wet clutch:

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_2463.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/SOKC)

Interesting on the later motors Yamaha seems to have switch to a different black case sealant:

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_2422.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/SH0Y)

Popping off the crank cover things seem to look OK:

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_2581.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/SGoT)

Big ends look OK but you never know until its been pulled apart. Of all the cranks I?ve only ever had one whose pins weren?t pitted. Centre seal has a bit of a rough spot.

I'll put this one away for a later day:

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_2585.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/S7wR)

I'll box the engine up for a later day, this time storing it a bit better. I'll pull the gearbox from this one as my other SPR has the tall first gear which is not much fun on the road.

And just for interest, I found out Yamaha sells 'OEM' loom tape to repair your wiring loom. Ordered it just for the hell of it and you get 6 rolls, pretty cheap too. These are supposedly better than ordinary electrical tape for your loom?

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/77D07F61-2C44-4E71-9DC8-9C18F29F2B4B.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/nVNX)

That's it. Just a few more hundred years then I'll be done  :-\

I'm about to start a similar on taking with my spr. My plumbing isn't as bad the pervious owner put the older style mechanical oil pump in it to run the sugo cdi. So i don't have any of the oil solenoid injector parts.

Got most of the parts to rebuild the engine now. Going to put the dry clutch away and convert it to a wet setup. Even though I have a new complete dry clutch plates for it gonna save them since one of the plates is nla now.

I have a used complete earlier R bottom end for parts. I must have the really tall first gear too because it's a real bitch to start off in.

Do you think my R transmission would be better for street use? Better ratios?

 (-P) Im gathering parts for my build( although not sure ill be doing the building), so interesting to look at your pics, plumbing picture slightly worrying :o....s.p crank ordered, Andy at webbs has given me a list of piston kit/gaskets/seals required, but how many ,and what bearings are required?

Quote from: SeaR1ck on March 18, 2019, 04:29:11 AM
Do you think my R transmission would be better for street use? Better ratios?

Yes, that's what I reckon. The tall first gear is a hassle and heavy on the clutch.. :-\

Quote from: bulldogboy on March 18, 2019, 09:04:18 PM
(-P) Im gathering parts for my build( although not sure ill be doing the building), so interesting to look at your pics, plumbing picture slightly worrying :o....s.p crank ordered, Andy at webbs has given me a list of piston kit/gaskets/seals required, but how many ,and what bearings are required?

All aboard the part gathering train  ;D Make up your own part lists with the part manual. The majority of bearings are off the shelf so no need for OEM, especially wheel bearings. Take lots of pics as you disassemble, cable routing etc seems logical when taking apart but putting back to together the logic is suddenly gone (-P)

Yes will br taking plenty of pics and labelling everything, dont want a picture like your box, but in reverse, full of OLD parts with no home! I do have phils old bike for reference which will be a big help,sorry ive hijacked your thread! How is your project going?

Top tip is to get some white, wide if you can get it, insulation tape. You can write on it with marker pen, make tags with it to mark up what wires/hoses go where and use it to close open holes that bolts like to jump into (airboxes, crankcases etc). The good thing is that you can see anything you have not removed as the white stands out.

 (-P) thanks, all tips great fully received,will heed your advice for sure, thanks, got a bike on ebay that must go to make room before i can start, then its all systems go

Quote from: yanw on March 27, 2019, 10:17:26 AM
Top tip is to get some white, wide if you can get it, insulation tape. You can write on it with marker pen, make tags with it to mark up what wires/hoses go where and use it to close open holes that bolts like to jump into (airboxes, crankcases etc). The good thing is that you can see anything you have not removed as the white stands out.

Also found business card plastic cases very useful, put nuts/bolts and associate peripherals in them together with a business card noting what the items relate to, particularly if you may face a mountain of bolts later on and are not sure where each one came from  :-[

 (-P) cheers for the tip, im quite meticulous and methodical, if not very knowledgeable :P

So the SPR is getting some attention finally. Partly forced due to incoming legislation that will kill all non-abs fitted bikes. So gotta get it sorted and registered before..

Pulling it apart is always easy,

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_364912.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/6nC2)

Wheeling the engine out on the toolbox, this will go to the bench for later. Chassis first.

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_37823b7875fe410d5321.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/6Nom)

now on to the separating the swingarm from the frame..hmm a few taps on the axle confirmed that it was stuck stuck stuck. Steve might get some flashbacks from seeing a frame on the floor with some penetrating oil nearby..

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_38332b5d84c0507c0435.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/6XL4)

Soaked overnight and pulled it out with some suitable threaded rod, very satisfying.

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_3853e1fc8630da1875cc.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/6Z7g)

The insides weren't as bad as I thought. A brown WD40 soup came out but the bearings and bush/axle not so bad. Either way I'll replace everything here.

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_3856.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/63lY)

Now that almost everything is stripped the cleaning can commence. Bikes' been stood for 12 years so it's dirty and a little mouldy.. Invested in a compressor and a soda blasting gun. Tested it then re-invested in a larger compressor. Now it can keep up, a nice oil-less square 4 cylinder silent compressor. Initially intended to just blast the odd aluminium part but it kinda snowballed into blasting everything. Quite addictive and rather satisfying.

Some examples,

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/soda-blasting-before-after.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/6JvD)

Gives a nice matte finish and cleans aly nicely. Won't remove corrosion though, but does a good enough job, ie,:

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_5003.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/6YC6)

On a lower pressure it cleans up plated surface very nicely:

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/Image-12.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/64oe)

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_5012.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/68FU)

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_5171105747a09f756a51.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/6FKL)

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/Image-11.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/6tl9)

Anybody else had a go at disks with a toothbrush? Soda blasting is a bit easier,

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_5242.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/6bKj)

Also cleans up rubber bits very nicely giving it soft finish.

Slowly working through a big pile of parts to clean or blast.

Sent the shock off to get rebuilt - it was wasted 12 years ago already.. I'm using my spare shock as it's in better cosmetic condition. Rebuilder let know that it uses a non-standard sized seal on the seal head (obviously.. ::) so he made a custom seal head that uses a standard Showa seal. So should be good for the future. Wonder if it's an SPR thing (probably) or if all the SP shocks use the same internal seals?

Some pics from the rebuild, looks like he has the right kit for the job:

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/shock-rebuild1.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/6lnz)

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/shock-rebuild2.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/6qzV)

and freshly rebuilt,

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_5371.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/6rpp)

Next is the frame and swingarm, the paint is rough from oxidation here and there. Looks like the old chain lube has lifted paint from the swinger so will try to touch up with matched paint.

Then wheels, these bear scars of a thousand tyre changes...which means that this was a track bike in its previous life. Makes sense because the chassis is a little rough but the bodywork is quite nice, probably been stored away in the loft ready for when it's time to sell!

Looking good  (-P)

The compressor and soda blasting seem to be good investments  :)

 (-P), yeah that soda blasting brings parts up real good, looks like your making good progress (-P) with reference to your pitted swingarm in need of touchup, mines the same on one bike, are there paint codes for the frames and swingarms?

P.S. jealous of that mint looking spr/ sp/rs tank! How bad is the old one?

Interested to know what they used for a seal head since I'm gonna be rebuilding my spr suspension soon.

Good work, Karel. Glad the swinger came apart easily. Your shop looks top notch.

Have you considered "CLR" for corrosion? It may not be a New Zealand product, but Amazon would probably have it, plus free shipping.

If you'd like. I'll send you some.

Steve

Quote from: ybk on March 09, 2020, 06:56:19 AM
So the SPR is getting some attention finally. Partly forced due to incoming legislation that will kill all non-abs fitted bikes. So gotta get it sorted and registered before..

Karel,

I could understand the legislation applying to new bikes from a certain date, but even 'old' ones too? Does this mean you will have to keep the SPR registered in perpetuity to retain exemption from the new requirements? I presume this is a 'New Zealand thing', but I'd be interested to know whatever you can tell me/us about it!

Thanks & regards,
James

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/Image-14.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/6LM3)

Also on the sideline, getting a new frame guard made. From left, the design, original that disintegrated and the first 3D printed prototype. This sits on the frame by the countershaft sprocket. Yamaha made a dedicated 3XV part for the later 3XV's, the early ones use the 3MA part. I suck at 3D modelling so will probably have to print a thousand more before it fits correctly.

Also doing bits for a SPR leak down tester. This will plug the exhaust port. This is a little easier so far haha

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/Screen-Shot-2020-03-11-at-7.55.54-PM.md.png) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/6Pz7)

Quote from: bulldogboy on March 09, 2020, 08:15:25 PM
(-P), yeah that soda blasting brings parts up real good, looks like your making good progress (-P) with reference to your pitted swingarm in need of touchup, mines the same on one bike, are there paint codes for the frames and swingarms?

Paint codes are here:
http://pure2strokespirit.net/redandblueftp/color_charts/3XV%20Farbtabelle%20_%20color%20chart.html

I have given these to a few paint shops and they always just go 'huh'. I had it matched in an aerosol can. 99% there I reckon. I'll take some pics once I have sprayed the swingarm:

I soda blasted the bad paint:

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_5319123e39511e1fdca5.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/6mqu)

I suck at spray painting so it will most likely look like a baboon's bum when done in which case I'll probably get the whole thing sprayed.

Quote from: SeaR1ck on March 09, 2020, 11:52:45 PM
Interested to know what they used for a seal head since I'm gonna be rebuilding my spr suspension soon.

He told me he had to custom make it but that could mean he just used another one that fits.. The dimensions he gave me were 12.5mm x 40mm which is the more commonly available size supposedly. Apparently the stock seal head is a 'Soqi' unit.

Quote from: Steveog on March 10, 2020, 12:33:27 AM
Your shop looks top notch.

Have you considered "CLR" for corrosion?

The shop is severely cramped and I miss my double garage  >:( At least I dumped the crappy existing workbench and made my own from a thick kitchen counter. Much better.

The CLR stuff, is that for corrosion removal?

Quote from: James P on March 10, 2020, 01:13:25 PM


I could understand the legislation applying to new bikes from a certain date, but even 'old' ones too? Does this mean you will have to keep the SPR registered in perpetuity to retain exemption from the new requirements? I presume this is a 'New Zealand thing', but I'd be interested to know whatever you can tell me/us about it!

All new bikes entering the fleet for the first time this year has to have ABS. All secondhand bikes entering the fleet for the first has to have ABS by end of next year. I can understand the reasoning and all but it does mean no more imports of cool non-ABS bikes.. :(

The SPR has only gone halfway into the system years and years ago. Never fully road registered before it was mothballed. So now I have to do it over and better on the safe side and get it done before the point of no return (even though it has once been complied, you never know what red tape may be hiding around the corner)

And yes, I'm wondering about the need to register until end of time for fear of losing the exemption. I'm hoping for sensibility to reign but yeah..

Relevant link:
https://www.transport.govt.nz/multi-modal/keystrategiesandplans/road-safety-strategy/abs-for-motorcycles/

Quote from: bulldogboy on March 09, 2020, 08:46:55 PM
P.S. jealous of that mint looking spr/ sp/rs tank! How bad is the old one?

Tank on the SPR looks good from far but it's basically junk. Even when I got the bike back in the day it was full of pin holes. Back then I put some epoxy on it and called it a day, haha, have to shake my head at my early attempts at trying to fix stuff. Taking the bike apart now I still shake my head at the ham fisted repairs  ;D The shame!

It got worse though, I thought "hey, let's leave the tank full of petrol for 4 years then it wont rust!". The ethanol in the petrol ended up having its way with the tank:

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_5441.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/6vw1)

Rusted straight through. On both my bikes. So nowadays ethanol is not in my good books. (I picked up a spare SPR tank a few years ago, back then it was an arm and a leg but I just bit the bullet. Looking back it was actually fairly cheap compared to today's prices)

At least it's fairly easy to test if the petrol has ethanol in because you cant really trust what they say and all.

Add some food colouring to the petrol, give it a shake, if there is ethanol it will dissolve and colour the petrol:

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_1411.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/694Q)

If no ethanol it will just stay separated even after shaking:

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_2141cdc9264385c0018a.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/6ILR)

You can get ethanol out by mixing the petrol with water, the ethanol will dissolve in the water then separate in two layers after which you can siphon off the petrol. Only problem is you lose some octane because the ethanol acts as an octane booster. Win some lose some etc..

So know your enemy! haha

Shame about the old tank, yeah looks like a sieve would hold more fuel, what i only just realised is that although they are similar, 3xva and 3xvb tanks are almost the same as the spr ,but the purple flash on the spr tank is straight and almost black, whereas rs/sp tanks have a wavy line to the bottom edge and are more purple, ..i know, i spend far too much time staring at pictures of 3xvs!  Interesting about the lower chain guard on the frame, im currently having some front and rear chain slider kits made, and ive got some lower left fairing brackets coming, just as an experiment really, should of included that lower one as part of the kit, sorry i was being lazy as soon as i posted i realised about the paint codes for the frames

So I assume most of us are home currently in these rather upside down times..Hope everybody is OK.

Hitting the garage for some distraction, attention turned to the SPR forks. Turns out they are little different than the other's I've done so far. Certainly differs from the 92 SP  .

Opening up the cap:

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_54000c3499895256cd2b.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/6gPe)

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_540194b33a52ad8734bf.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/6yBU)

It has a different top bit which is also more difficult to remove than the R and other SP forks. The 92 SP fork you can just push the spacer down by hand and pop it under the damper nut. On a R fork it's a little harder but the SPR you definitely need a spring compressor as the spacer needs to go down a fair bit. A ratchet strap and metal hooks nicked from the kitchen does it nicely (wish I had metalwork skills and a welder..would make the proper tool, oh well.)

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_5465.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/6OeM)

Managed to disassemble the lot :

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_5597.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/62Nj)

Notice that the chrome stanchion doesn't have a top groove for the bush because it only has a single bush in each leg as far as I can see. The single bush sits in the outer tube by the seal. The parts manual doesn't even show this bush!
What's cool is that the stanchion now slides out with no effort leaving the seal behind, no more knocking out the seal with the bush. Makes removing and installing the seal much easier since now the seal goes in before the stanchion. Simply tap it in with a large bearing or such.

Another look at the top cap:

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_5598.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/6H0z)

The bummer is that there isn't much info about the forks in the manual... The sugo manual has compression/rebound settings but that is related to the sugo setup which has a larger air gap (interesting that the sugo air gap is larger than the stock one). The main manual has these that helps, so that covers the stock air gap at least:

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/Screen-Shot-2020-03-27-at-1.22.19-PM.md.png) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/6pqp)


But no confirmation as to what this damper rod thread distance is (this is for R forks) :

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/Screen-Shot-2020-03-27-at-1.19.17-PM.md.png) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/6cQV)

When I disassembled it looked like was also 10.5mm but could be more, not sure. Has anybody else rebuilt their SPR forks?

A little progress, have to get a move on now that I have a SPR project buddy with Searick..

Last time I left my newly rebuilt shock in a zip lock bag for a few weeks. Had a check the other day and saw this:

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_5467.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/LoUM)

Not ideal :(. So sent it back, apparently it was the seal around the compression adjuster which wasn't replaced. So if you're getting your shock rebuilt it may be worth mentioning this seal:

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_88361.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/L8sj)

Then just a few small things, finally got the swingarm done. It came out OK-ish. Looks fine from a meter, not really doing a concourse thing here so this will do:

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/Image-13.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/LAtz)

Also did the subframe, forgot to take a before pic. The whole subframe lost most of its paint due to corrosion and wear and tear. This will do OK.

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_5937.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/LERV)

Jammed in some fresh swingarm bearings. I much prefer pressing them in than out.

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_5883.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/LbTp)

Painted some small bits that were too weathered. Soda blasting gives a nice clean canvas to paint,

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/Image-17.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/LqE9)

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/Image-16.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/Lrmb)

Lastly, getting there with my leak down-test-kit-lockdown-project, one more round of printing with some tweaks then hopefully it should be good..

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_5874.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/LVg2)

Just want to get the chassis assembled so I can move on to the motor..unfortunately I need some copper washers for the forks (I had to remove the damper assemblies.. :() and a few other bits to get the chassis assembled but the parts are sitting in Japan waiting on a flight out which aint happening at the moment.

Finally finished the forks, new seals, dust seals and some motul 10W.

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/xIMG_6728.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/Pze4)

Doing a few random things when time permits. Some soda blasting to get everything clean, works really well on plated bits.

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/xIMG_6759-2.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/P0Mg)

The clutch main seal was leaking converting the dry clutch to a wet one. A degrease and gentle soda blasting gets them nice and clean, 

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/xIMG_6607.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/P10L)

I wasn't going to get anything bead blasted but the yoke was rougher than a babboon's bum and soda did nothing so yeah,

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/xIMG_6747.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/PUQ3)

Fresh stem bearings top and bottom. Cleaned up the triple clamp as well with some matched paint.

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/xIMG_5934.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/P7xX)

The rear subframe took ages to soda blast so just handed it over to the bead blaster, primed and painted. Was in a rush to get it primed after blasting and forgot to take a pic.

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/xIMG_6737.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/PB2u)
(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/zIMG_6758-2.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/PG41)

Started dismantling the motor as well,

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/xIMG_6240.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/PgPS)

Cylinders were worse than I remembered,

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/xIMG_6241.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/PyDQ)
(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/xIMG_6244.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/POeR)

I'll use my spare set and have these replated someday. The local platers are stupid expensive. I worked out I can send them to the UK to be plated and still save money.. ::) Backburner for now.

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/xIMG_6302.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/P2Nq)

Bike stood for a long time and seems was home to some guests at some stage:

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/xIMG_6252.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/PH0T)

Crank bearings sound like they are running through gravel...

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_6255.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/PcQw)
(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/xIMG_6253.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/PprA)

The balance gear was stuck, seems like some rust got in there somehow:

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/xIMG_6256.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/PWxC)

which sparked a search for a better balance shaft which soon turned the bench into an autopsy table. Another spare was rusted in the same way so I guess it is a problem on stood motors. 3rd try was lucky.

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/xIMG_6299.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/aQ2a)

Started soda blasting the engine parts. They clean up nicely. Best way to get the caked on carbon inside the PV cavity out without resorting to scraping ..

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/xIMG_6599.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/aj8Y)
(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/xIMG_6602.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/asPD)

Started with the chassis. Made a tool for the headstock, no more hammer and screwdrivers. Yamaha wants 60 bucks for the tool, I just sent my 30 deep socket on a date with a grinder.

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/xIMG_6809-2.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/auD6)

Which gets us here,

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/xIMG_6813.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/aefe)

And just because you can never have enough projects I got this as well:

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/2008120061-04.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/afNU)

Forgot how tiny these thing's pistons are:

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_6814-2.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/a31M)

Got a 68cc top end and a 'kit' cdi. Reckon it'll be fun racing to the chip shop  ;D

Will feel good when you get that spr rolling.

So I wasn't familiar with that version of the tzr50r. So i went down that rabbit hole. That engine looks like it's the same one used in the tzr80rr. The only markets i know of it was sold in was spain and Germany. And i know how Yamaha likes to parts bin when building bikes.

Interesting, I had a look and the 80 seems to have the same motor. This is the 4EU model though which is Japan only.

Here is a nice link with the history:

https://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.mr-bike.jp%2F%3Fp%3D127475

There's a SPR lookalike model which I tried getting but pretty much all of them left in Japan are wrecks. I can't imagine preserving bikes would be high on the priority list for a 16 year old kid.. so can't really blame them.

Great progress, your doing a really thorough job , the soda blasting works a treat. Strangely satisfying  just looking at the pictures! Can you post a pic of your blasting kit? What were those critters that took up residence? A mate had mice make a nest in a bike once, chewed through every wire in the loom, and anything rubber, wrecked it. Looking foward to seeing your end result, what are the tank and panels like, think you said you had a new tank?

Yea soda blasting is quite satisfying! Makes a right mess though so I do it outside. I use this unit:

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/soda.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/a82p)

https://www.jwl.dk/en/p/sodablasters/

It's quite expensive but I thought I'll save money by doing it myself in the long run and keep it for other projects down the line. You can DIY a blaster but from research on the net results are hit and miss. Soda is very gentle so you need to blast it at optimal speed and shape to get the best results so I just went for the proper stuff. You need a proper compressor as well, something that can do at least 200lpm free air delivery I'd say.

I guess the critter was an adventurous bug. Crawled into the space between the crank halves that's open to the outside.  Only left what was some sort of cocoon thing? Thankfully just a bug, a mouse would be bad news if looking at replacement costs for SPR looms... :'(

Panels are in good shape, a tiny scratch here and there, top fairing as a 2cm crack but the rest is mint.

Coincidentally, I actually pulled the tank out of storage last weekend to start on de-rusting the inside. It's an OK tank but the underside is very rusty. On closer inspection there are some pitting here and there and some rust coloured tiny spots under the clear coat on the seams. Breaks my heart because even 5 or 6 years ago when I got it it was quite expensive.

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_6820.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/aE89)

I'l sand the bottom and primer seal it then deox-c the inside..

Over here we get masonry wasps or something like that. They crawl into holes and seal themselves in with chewed up mortar or the like. Hollow axles a favourite. Just rod through and clean out with brake cleaner.

Co-incidentally, no 2 Son picked up a compressor a few months back, now I'm keen to try out the soda blasting on something.

Any offers Gavin  (-P)

Don't point it straight on or 90deg to the work or you will look like you just came out of a sandstorm!
Man it makes a mess. Wear goggles and mask. A cupboard even home made From wood outside would be a good thing.
I gave up, bought a cheap Chinese gun keeps blocking.

Ended up getting the wheels professionally painted, would have liked to keep it on stock paint but it was flaking off. Pretty expensive but what are you going to do without nice wheels.. :-\

Those captive spacers are a bit of a hassle to get in along with the bearing and seal!

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_7269.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/hERw)

De-rusted the tank with deoxc and a little immersion heater to keep things toasty:

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_7248.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/hbcA)

Before:

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_7247.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/hqEC)

After:

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_7257.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/hrma)

Left it overnight then swirled some petrol and 2 stroke inside so it should be OK for the interim.

..and the little 50 arrived. Oddly enough it's actually pretty similar in fit and size to a 3XV, just thinner.

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_7265.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/hVyY)

A lot of fun, flat out everywhere  >:D

Sorry I'm late to the party, Karel. Nice work so far.

If you're considering sending cylinders to UK for plating, you might want to crosscheck pricing here in the US. Unfortunately, I've good knowledge and thus reason to recommend PowerSeal. http://www.powersealusa.com/

You've probably seen the various damages I've sent to them. Well, their repair and re-plate service is the highest quality and a quite a bit cheaper than other top companies. They specialize in cylinders and also do performance porting. Turnaround is 10 days once the cylinder is in their shop.

SeaRick recommended them to me.

Good Luck.

Steve

PS: I just got my Covid Vaccine last week. Hope you have the opportunity...assuming you want the shot(s).

Quote from: Steveog on January 20, 2021, 01:06:30 AM
I've good knowledge and thus reason to recommend PowerSeal. http://www.powersealusa.com/

PS: I just got my Covid Vaccine last week. Hope you have the opportunity...assuming you want the shot(s).

When you got the cylinders back, were they covered with very tiny pits everywhere from the acid used to remove the old plating?
I have some 3XV SP cylinders that will need plating, but don't want them eaten up on the gasket surfaces or anywhere really.

Hope your not one of the many that has complications, or gets sick from a shot to keep you from getting sick.
Too Scary for me....hope you make it through to the second one without problems  (-P)

Quote from: ybk on January 20, 2021, 12:38:27 AM

..and the little 50 arrived. Oddly enough it's actually pretty similar in fit and size to a 3XV, just thinner.

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_7265.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/hVyY)

A lot of fun, flat out everywhere  >:D

The TZR50 looks like new....that has to be fun to play with

Quote from: busa1300 on January 20, 2021, 04:34:10 AM

Quote from: Steveog on January 20, 2021, 01:06:30 AM
I've good knowledge and thus reason to recommend PowerSeal. http://www.powersealusa.com/

PS: I just got my Covid Vaccine last week. Hope you have the opportunity...assuming you want the shot(s).

When you got the cylinders back, were they covered with very tiny pits everywhere from the acid used to remove the old plating?
I have some 3XV SP cylinders that will need plating, but don't want them eaten up on the gasket surfaces or anywhere really.

Hope your not one of the many that has complications, or gets sick from a shot to keep you from getting sick.
Too Scary for me....hope you make it through to the second one without problems  (-P)

I had this happen when I used millennium technologies one of the other big replaters here in the u.s. they did my set of nsr250 cylinders. The outter surface was all porous and even a small spot on the bore in the plating.

They say it's not a problem it doesn't effect performance. I beg to disagree on that it happens from being left in the cleaning solution to long.

Power seal usa which is in Pennsylvania. Did my 06 yz144 yz250 my spr my friends 2xt cr125 cr250  and a second set of nsr250 cylinders. None of them have come back with that. Porous holes left in the cleaner too long look.

Funny thing is they are less expensive than the two other major replaters. U.s chrome and millennium technologies. Turn around can vary by how busy they are. Usually it's 2 to 3 weeks.

Thanks for the powerseal pointer - shipping to the states and back will still be the same or cheaper as local plating. I guess if you have a monopoly you can charge whatever you like  ::) Plating is on the back burner until the frustration dies down.. >:(

Found some gasket sheet which is the exact same brand/type as Yamaha OEM. Cutting out all new NLA gaskets. Take that yamaha!  ;D

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/gasket.md.png) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/hSJD)

Quote from: busa1300 on January 20, 2021, 04:38:06 AM

The TZR50 looks like new....that has to be fun to play with

The fairings are in great shape and all the original bits are there but corroded, the frame(steel) is very rusty and the shock is dead. Was on the lookout for one for quite some time, pretty much all of them have been smashed by teenagers  :)) Will be a long term project to sort out..

It's a lot of fun though, I'm sure I look like a right idiot on it but it's such a laugh..

Quote from: busa1300 on January 20, 2021, 04:34:10 AM

Quote from: Steveog on January 20, 2021, 01:06:30 AM
I've good knowledge and thus reason to recommend PowerSeal. http://www.powersealusa.com/

PS: I just got my Covid Vaccine last week. Hope you have the opportunity...assuming you want the shot(s).

When you got the cylinders back, were they covered with very tiny pits everywhere from the acid used to remove the old plating?
I have some 3XV SP cylinders that will need plating, but don't want them eaten up on the gasket surfaces or anywhere really.

Hope your not one of the many that has complications, or gets sick from a shot to keep you from getting sick.
Too Scary for me....hope you make it through to the second one without problems  (-P)

As Rick reported, PowerSeal delivered faultless work. Three cylinders. Welded huge gouges in the cylinder walls. Perfect welding and no pitting.

I took the Pfizer version of the vaccine. Sore arm for a few days. No other symptoms.

Steve

The other thing to look out for is that the threads in the cylinder get attacked by the process also. It's worth running a tap down carefully and go easy when tightening the head bolts or you'll strip the threads on Late SP, SPR and Cylinders ( and reinstalling the studs in the 5 stud set up cylinders)

Yes. I always "chase" the threads on repaired cylinders studs. In fact, Powerseal recommends this process.

HA. No. I'm not receiving any incentives from PS.

Good luck

Steve

Small steps..cleaning up the engine with soda blasting (I think I have blasted through a mountain of baking soda..)

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/Image.jpg)

The cases had years of crap and corrosion caked on. The cases don't look so impressive in the pic but it actually came up very nice.

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/Image-2.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/vt5e)

Tried to avoid it but had to replate one cylinder. The plating was glazed and the hone marks were all but gone. Before and after.

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/Image-copy.jpg)

Fairly happy with the plating job. I don't have a bore dial gauge but the ring gap looks spot on the minimum clearance so should be good.

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_7598.jpg)

I was a little surprised at how slight the chamfer was..

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_7599.jpg)

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_7747.jpg)

Replacing all the gearbox and balance shaft bearings. Don't have access to a press anymore so had get creative with the threaded rod..

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_7558.jpg)

All done,

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_7572.jpg)

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_7745.jpg)

(I'll remove the seal on that one bearing later)

Finishing up some odd jobs, soda blasted one of my spare master cylinders, came up nicely with some sating enamel black:

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/Image-3.jpg)

and the obligatory shot of what came out of the oil pump filter:

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_7543.jpg)

Usual crap with a piece from a tab washer, not so cool  ::) The previous Japanese dude probably skimped on replacing them..

Now it's basically just assembly, all the major stuff is done.

 (-P) Nice work Karel, youre doing a proper job there  O0

Looking very thorough  (-P).
The cylinder reminded me of mine, had it powder coated, also in satin black, as a test before the wheels were done.

Soda blasting really does work great, and that cylinder looks beautiful  (-P)

Waiting on a new tube of yamabond, mine expired it 2019 it seems. Apparently they only have a year shelf life. I'd like to only join the crankcases once so yeah. Threebond 1215 is also an option but it's a huge tube and really expensive compared to yamabond.. Interesting that yamabond is made in the states and threebond is made in Japan. The viscosity differs as well so they are definitely not the same product.

Anyway been keeping busy with the chassis stuff and the bottom end. How about a SP type gearbox next to a R gearbox:

Check the first(?) outer gear on the SP compared to the R:

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/gearbox.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/witU)

Finishing the cylinders, everything soda blasted, new seals all round. A lot more effort than R cylinders with all the links and gubbins..

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_7804-3.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/wjRM)

Finally have a rolling chassis, got some Bridgestone RS11's, the fingernail test says they are much softer than the BT090's I've been using to date.

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_7898.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/wscj)

New disc bolts, soda blasted discs, new wheel bearings seals etc:

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_7897.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/wKEz)

40T rear should make it a bit more responsive round the neighborhood

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_7896.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/wemV)

These were actually still available new a few years ago, they are a right bastard to bend right once they've had a knock so a new one makes life easy.

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_8034.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/wfgp)

New grips (the later model grips are terrible but I'll keep it stock for now..). HEL brake lines up front and a new reservoir.

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_8035.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/wJJ9)

Busy with the brakes now, new seals, o rings, master cylinders etc

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_8041.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/wY6b)

Mine has survived its first few hundred miles now. Last ride was its first tank of straight gas no premix. Running perfectly.
Stock jetting 7K cdi jackal pipes n silencers. Vaj disconnected from the wiring. Just running the stock jets inside it.

Nos SP oil pump (91, 92) with the manual oil pump setup and throttle cable. Yes my ypvs servo motor has the pulley wheel with the oil pump cable. I got it this way previous owner did the swap on servo motor.

Looking great, Karel!  8)

Anybody have an open engine at the moment to check the mesh between the primary gear and balance gear? Just test fitting everything together and the balance gear is not perfectly aligned with the primary gear, slightly outward. None of my historic pictures are clear enough and my memory is hazy.. :P

The clutch hub and primary gear mesh is also slightly out..so before I tear everything down again.. ;D

Not quite the angle (as this was a pic from a while ago) you need but I think I detect the same minor stepping you have

Out of interest - the alignment marks are not evident on yours, so check the balance shaft rotation...

In fact I can just see both marks on both gears in the top pic and you're 120 degrees out of whack.

Thanks for that, it does seem to be the same. I've pulled a spare disassembled engine out and did a rough assembly and it also seems to have the same mesh characteristics on both the balance shaft and clutch. I can't recall this from the motors I've had before, hmm brain fade probably..

And yes, this is just a test fit so I didn't bother aligning the dots  :)

Quote from: ybk on August 17, 2021, 12:03:03 AM
And yes, this is just a test fit so I didn't bother aligning the dots  :)

I did hesitate before suggesting the alignment to you, but better safe than sorry!

nice bikes and great build,same bike as my 3xv8

^^ I really like the 3XV8 colour scheme, those yellow number plates are cool.

Bled the brakes using a method I saw a Japanese guy do - using one of those shower cream pumps. I was skeptical but it works rather well, really helps with getting a dry brake system going. The fronts were bled with good feel within in an hour, cracked the top banjo bolt to get any air trapped there and left the lever strapped overnight. Much faster than my previous attempts..

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_8050.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/xOfY)

Next up the engine. Put the crank in, here is my procedure, please add to it if I missed anything? Thought it might be useful for Southcoastrich  (-P)

• I put a bead of yamabond on both cases then evenly and thinly spread it out. I actually used a cut up yogurt lid, a wide piece works nicely. I think the manual says only one side but a thin covering on both has worked for me (the pic makes it look thicker than it is)
• Pop in the 2 locating dowels, water galley gasket and metal support under the right hand bearing
• Some grease on the insides of the left and right crank seals, and lube the outside of the seals with some gearbox oil
• Add a little 2T oil to the bearings and big ends
• Pop the crank in and place the 3 crank bearing locating pins in their respective recesses in the case, check crank spins easily
• Check the 3x seals are seated properly in their grooves
• Close up the crank with the other case, try to check that the seals seat properly as well in the upper case. The 2 cases should mesh fairly easy. Check that the conrods don't poke through the read cages
• Tighten 15 bolts in the 2 stage process as per manual

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_8114.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/x2ND)

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_8116.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/xH16)

I replaced this seal on the clutch hub as well, I usually forget about it in favor of the larger one that sits in the clutch cover. Weirdly it's missing on the parts book, it's on the parts app though.

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_8140.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/xcie)

Uhh you're gonna hate this because I made the same mistake too the first time. But you have the right side seal backwards.

It needs to go the other way around luckily you can still fix this. But your gonna have to split the cases again. Sorry.

But I'm saving you from a headache. I had mine all back together. After like 30 mins of running how you have yours now it ruined the seal tore it around the shaft. I got about 250 miles on mine now since I fixed it.

Hmm, all the motors I've taken apart to date had it that way round (one with only 5000km that looked like it has never been open). The manual has 2 pictures where you can spot the seal the 'wrong' way round as well:

Agreed, Karel has the seal fitted the correct way around.

Dan

Yup, seal is oriented correctly.  (-P)

Quote from: ybk on August 20, 2021, 03:36:44 AM

• Check that the conrods don't poke through the read cages

I never thought of that but you can bet your life I would have done that  ;D

Massively useful Karel - thank you! I know TZRTim is also doing this procedure too.

Just a thought on the right side seal - it's a historic debate and there's a lot of previous on this... I've read *all the posts* and all the archive posts! I looked at it like the water pump seal (which is clearly labelled) where the spring is on the side where the gear oil is, and the flat surface faces whatever variable, volatile outside environment exists (coolant, crank void).

Don't know why yours tore up SeaR1ck  ?:-|

Not sure but if you look in the 91 manual it shows it the other way around. I knew I saw it the other way around in the spr manual which is the same as the 93 94 RS n SP.

I thought I fucked it up because when I took it apart. The seal part with the spring that goes around the crankshaft.

Was torn and the spring was off. Maybe it was just a bad seal. My initial reaction was  that the drive gear might have tore it up.

Bike is running sweet now with it the other way around.

I guess it doesn't matter so much but I found this supporting the "spring to the oil" thoughts. Of course you won't find anything 2 stroke specific  :-\ https://jrcengineering.com/technical-support/install-guides/which-way-do-i-install-the-oil-seal/ (https://jrcengineering.com/technical-support/install-guides/which-way-do-i-install-the-oil-seal/)

Glad yours is running well, that's the main thing!

Quote from: SeaR1ck on August 20, 2021, 04:27:07 PM
Not sure but if you look in the 91 manual it shows it the other way around. I knew I saw it the other way around in the spr manual which is the same as the 93 94 RS n SP.

I thought I fucked it up because when I took it apart. The seal part with the spring that goes around the crankshaft.

Was torn and the spring was off. Maybe it was just a bad seal. My initial reaction was  that the drive gear might have tore it up.

Bike is running sweet now with it the other way around.

There is a slightly misleading diagram in the 3XV1/2 manual which perhaps leads to this confusion? But if you look at the motor pictures all show the seal oriented the way Karel has it. As has every from-the-factory 3XV motor I've ever stripped, so I think we can confirm without doubt that the seal should be fitted as Karel has it.  (-P)     

So this has been dragging on forever and time ran out. I had to get the bike in the system due to ABS requirements coming into effect 1 Nov. So fast forward 2 weeks of working before work in the morning and at night I managed to go from half an engine on the bench to a running bike..

Didn't really have time to document it so here is the shortest time lapse ever..

Suddenly the motor is assembled in the frame...

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_8550-2.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/9VX1)

Add a little body work,

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_8572-2.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/9njQ)

Just testing, started 3rd kick or so

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_8578-2.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/9MVR)

Both ready for roadworthy tests,

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_8581-2.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/9NIq)

Everything went pretty smooth but not really cool to rush everything. Still need to do proper cable routing and put lighter weight oil in the forks.

The biggest glitch were the carb intake manifolds - while bleeding the solenoid oil pump I accidentally bled some oil into the manifold which instantly started leaking where the manifold meets the cases. I used a little Yamabond between all the surfaces but apparently not enough. Had to pull everything out, ditch the gasket and seal everything up with 1215. Anybody else considering Yamabond, just use TB 1215 instead. Maybe I got a bad batch or something but the Yamabond I used was very flimsy. 1215 makes a better seal.

A blessing in disguise though as that leak would have been quite an issue. A leak down test would have caught it but time was an issue so yeah lesson learnt. Another problem is the manifolds are now 25 years old and not as supple anymore so I would recommend using sealant regardless.

The next phase will be to sort out all the details on the bike then look at the sugo cdi and getting the DFR pipes on.

Looking great, Karel!  8) It's amazing how a looming deadline can really get the spanners flying, isn't it?  (-P)

 (-P) both looking great, nice one.what is that single seat unit? Looks pretty cool.
What are the ABS rules about?

Looking sweet. You wouldn't happen to have kept your old pistons n rings from the spr? Needing one so get it copied for reproduction.

Haha yes Warwick, not my favorite way to do it though, was supposed to be a relaxing affair.. ;D

The single seat one is the little 50cc, both are going for their road register process. The ABS issue is a requirement for all bikes entering the fleet for the first time to have ABS fitted. The man has essentially killed off all non ABS bikes and the majority of imports in one go. Genius  ::) The SPR is kinda in the system already but I don't want to take chances, dealing with red tape is really low on my priority list..

Searick, I kept the old pistons and I have a spare NOS set as well. Shall we make a plan?

Yea, I was talking to jscnook on here about contacting wossner usa. To have some spr piston copied and have a batch done. I think the minimum is 10 pistons. He said its just mainly getting a piston to them to have it done.

Road registered and running pretty good. Bone stock so I know I have a good base to work from. Now to strip it again for more work, first up the forks which need ligher oil. 10W seemed to work well in my earlier SP but on the SPR they are completely overdamped. Will go for 2.5w. Then sugo CDI and pipes for some testing.

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_9044.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/9Om3)

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_9045.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/92g7)

I'm a sucker so I picked up another 50. This is a later one and pretty much the same colors as the SPR haha :)) Only 2000km, apparently it was binned then stored for 25 years in an old age home warehouse..

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/47438al.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/9TJX)

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/47438ak.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/9c6u)



Searick, I still have to get those pistons to you.. :(

Pipe change is on my list at some point so interested how you progress, always been a little concerned about clearance and melting the bodywork if the aftermarket pipes are not too accommodating  :-\

Looking very tidy and even the sun came out for your photoshoot  8) :))

Looks great. Read the thread with interest as I'm heading down the same road with a SPR I bought not long back. I've found some original panels to replace the damaged originals and as time allows, the engine needs a strip and rebuild.
I'd be very interested in a set of pistons if the order goes in :)
Also be following how the Sugo and pipes fitment goes. Mines bog stock original also. Does fitting the Sugo mean a switch to premix or fitting a cable oil pump?

Quote from: ybk on February 03, 2022, 08:34:05 AM
Road registered and running pretty good. Bone stock so I know I have a good base to work from. Now to strip it again for more work, first up the forks which need ligher oil. 10W seemed to work well in my earlier SP but on the SPR they are completely overdamped. Will go for 2.5w. Then sugo CDI and pipes for some testing.

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_9044.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/9Om3)

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_9045.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/92g7)

I'm a sucker so I picked up another 50. This is a later one and pretty much the same colors as the SPR haha :)) Only 2000km, apparently it was binned then stored for 25 years in an old age home warehouse..

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/47438al.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/9TJX)

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/47438ak.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/9c6u)



Searick, I still have to get those pistons to you.. :(

Ybk I'm using 5 weight oil in my forks and it seems fine.

As for the pistons I just need one of those used ones for copying purposes.

I have the sugo 7k cdi on mine I'm running stock jetting with it. But if you switch it out you'll need to run premix or hopefully have one of the earlier sp throttle cables. An R cable would work cept for the one small cable that connects to the upper carb. The SP version it is a lil longer. Also need to swap oil pump to older cable operated.


I also have jackel pipes n silencers running on 95 Ron and it's running good.

Quote from: ybk on February 03, 2022, 08:34:05 AM
Road registered and running pretty good. Bone stock so I know I have a good base to work from. Now to strip it again for more work, first up the forks which need ligher oil. 10W seemed to work well in my earlier SP but on the SPR they are completely overdamped. Will go for 2.5w. Then sugo CDI and pipes for some testing.

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_9044.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/9Om3)

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_9045.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/92g7)

I'm a sucker so I picked up another 50. This is a later one and pretty much the same colors as the SPR haha :)) Only 2000km, apparently it was binned then stored for 25 years in an old age home warehouse..

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/47438al.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/9TJX)

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/47438ak.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/9c6u)



Searick, I still have to get those pistons to you.. :(

Looking good Karel. That little 50 is sweet, just like a scaled down SPR. Are the tzr50s common over in NZ? I didn't even know Yamaha made one to be honest.

Enjoy mate. 


Dan.

Quote from: SeaR1ck on February 03, 2022, 03:58:39 PM

As for the pistons I just need one of those used ones for copying purposes.


[/quote]




I have a used SP piston I could loan out.

Earlier SP pistons not the same later model SP and SPR have different ring pin locations. Both rings are centre lined and the later model SP and SPR have different porting for this. The earlier SP is more like the R model in port design.

The later model SP and SPR look more like what Yamaha did to the yz125 porting and pv. When Yamaha came out with the all new yz125 engine in 94 and went on a long run of 125 mx dominance.

Would TZ (A) pistons work with the SPR, Rick? They fit into my "R", replacing the stockers and Wossners. The TZ pistons have a single, centered ring that runs over a transfer port on the "R", but with a bit of extra chamfering on that port...no problems (Thanks, Martin). Perhaps the SPR porting will accommodate the YZ piston ring locating pin, assuming it fits at all.

Steve

TZ would be fine but single ring is not ideal for the road I reckon..

QuoteThat little 50 is sweet, just like a scaled down SPR. Are the tzr50s common over in NZ? I didn't even know Yamaha made one to be honest.

Yep they're cool, lotsa fun because you're flat out everywhere and your license is never in danger haha. I have the YEC CDI for it so that should give it a bit more life. These are coming from Japan, will probably be the only ones in NZ..

Quote from: SeaR1ckI'm using 5 weight oil in my forks and it seems fine.

I'm doubting my 2.5W now as I get ready to change it. What weight ballpark are you in? With 10w the forks barely move, they only respond on all adjusters fully out. That's why I went for 2.5. Are you using Motul?

Quote from: ybk on February 24, 2022, 10:45:47 AM
I'm doubting my 2.5W now as I get ready to change it. What weight ballpark are you in? With 10w the forks barely move, they only respond on all adjusters fully out. That's why I went for 2.5. Are you using Motul?

5.wt is closest to the oe oil as I understand it, but the forks should still be plenty pliant with 10wt really. How is their action with no oil in at all? I mean, could there be a physical problem causing mechanical stiction?  Are you setting the air gap correctly (spring out, fork leg fully collapsed)?

Quote from: Steveog on February 23, 2022, 10:32:37 PM
Would TZ (A) pistons work with the SPR, Rick? They fit into my "R", replacing the stockers and Wossners. The YZ pistons have a single, centered ring that runs over a transfer port on the "R", but with a bit of extra chamfering on that port...no problems (Thanks, Martin). Perhaps the SPR porting will accommodate the YZ piston ring locating pin, assuming it fits at all.

Steve

They could work but require head mod to make work. Not really feasible for a street ride to run a single ring piston. They wear out faster not a problem really on say a tz which was made with the idea of coming apart often. You know what it's like working on the tzr a single ring piston would get like half the mileage the stock would.

Would only go that route if it was the only option.

Quote from: Warwick on February 24, 2022, 11:26:34 AM

5.wt is closest to the oe oil as I understand it, but the forks should still be plenty pliant with 10wt really. How is their action with no oil in at all? I mean, could there be a physical problem causing mechanical stiction?  Are you setting the air gap correctly (spring out, fork leg fully collapsed)?

I had 10w in my 92SP forks and it was great. On the SPR forks he action was smooth without any oil, it didn't feel there was any physical stiction, it felt like 92SP forks with all the adjusters in all the way, so much damping that they barley move. Air gap was good as well (no spring, collapsed).

Yamaha doesn't specify a measurement for the fork top distance on the damping rod thread but I compared it to my spare forks. What I understand is that you determine the total amount of clicks on the rebound adjuster, turn it fully in then finger tight the fork top onto the damper rod then torque up. This ensures you have the correct range of adjustment.

I'll do one fork with 2.5w and see how it turns out..

The fork internals are quite different from the other 3xv forks as well from what I have observed, its got a plate in the fork top onto which the spacer rests for example.

2.5W in forks are much better but l might go 5W next time the seals need changing.

Swapped out the stock pipes for the DFR's. Very disappointed that they foul the fairing. Can't use the lower mount point and had to stick heat shield tape to the lowers. Bummer because the other DFR set I've used on the SP and R cleared the fairing perfectly.

At least it does away with the cast iron flange anchors (as well as the studs!) to make the DFR's fit:

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_9290.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/IynD)

The SPR cylinder outlet with its flush exhaust exit is not as elegant as the other guillotine SP, it makes things a little cramp.

The DFR's are very civilized in terms of decibels:

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/images/IMG_9532.md.jpg) (https://pure2strokespirit.net/chevereto/image/ICz6)

Need to run in the new top end then I'll look at CDI's.

Looks lovely Karel.
Do the SPR's come with black mirrors as standard?

It's been a while  :-[

I have only put on around 200km since finishing up the SPR :-\ Took an extended run this week and pushed the revs a little higher and unfortunately the clutch was slipping. I know the plates are good so that left the big seal :(. (Even with a dry clutch full of oil the ZX400 I came across didn't stand a chance  :)) )

I put in a new seal with build but it's a difficult seal to get in square. I'm sure I got it in there without too much ham-fisted-bodge-work but maybe something went wrong.

Stripped it down now, I'll jam in another new seal so fingers crossed..

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/files/prjct/spr/seal1.jpeg)

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/files/prjct/spr/seal2.jpeg)

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/files/prjct/spr/seal3.jpeg)

As an added bonus the rev counter needle starts to boogie wildly after 6k rpm so that's another snag. Then the exhaust seems to spew oil from have a pin hole somewhere.

Temperamental bikes indeed but worth it.

Quote from: TZRtim on April 11, 2018, 11:36:45 PM
Lovely bikes indeed . That old tyre tread reminds me of the old BT56  (-P)

Those Battlax tires really take me back.  My 91 R model came with those bad dogs and they were so squared off by the time I got the bike in 95 that it was a lazy steering SOB.
I hadn't ridden any other 3XV (or anything that wasn't fecked from years of teenage neglect) and wasn't too hip to how it should feel.  When I put on some new BT90's I almost turned off the inside of every corner for a day!!

Great bikes!  Looking forward to your posts..

josh

Quote from: SeaR1ck on April 24, 2018, 01:47:12 AM
Damn i want that throttle tube  :'(

Get away from that tube!  I want it!!  :o

josh

Quote from: ybk on April 25, 2018, 12:23:13 AM
The tube comes with the grip, you can still order it. Theres quite a few other grip part numbers that still come with tube as well ( that i found while searching for the best priced replacement).
It was quite cheap as well.

That's the same tube as the 3XV-26240-00-00 that's NLA?
If so, that's great info.

I just change the grips to TZ grips any way :)

Quote from: ybk on April 27, 2018, 09:41:30 AM
Yeah ok, have to backpedal a bit. They are not the same sorry  :-[ I only wanted the grip so didn't worry about the tube.

It looks like you should be able to mod either of them to work but you'll lose a bit of leverage due to the hole being closer to the tube..(The ybr one may be a better match with its one hole but the stops might also be an issue)  :-\

Ahh, bollocks!  I'll read further before I comment next time.  Sorry fellas.

The everlasting project...

The SPR holds on to revs randomly which sucks. Did a leak down test with Dan's excellent plugs. Both pots held 6psi for 10min and then some. Forgot to relieve the pressure when I was done. Came back a week later and removed the exhaust plugs with the air bursting out...so pretty airtight haha ;D

Moving on to the carbs then..

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/files/prjct/spr/t1.jpeg)



Checked the cylinders and saw some unhappy looking nikasil. This is a newly plated cylinder. Anybody have an idea what this is? It's completely smooth, no grooves anywhere. I scraped the right side with a scotchpad and it didn't do much. Amy ideas?

(https://pure2strokespirit.net/files/prjct/spr/t2.jpeg)

That looks like poo the plating looks like it's flaking off to me. All those  spots where it's lighter colour then the plating.

I've seen those dark lines before usually right after a fresh replate. Caused because the cylinder was not cleaned throughly. With soap n water after getting them back to get rid of the honing debris. But that mark looks more like a piece of dirt or something dug into the cylinder wall and left that nasty scratch.

They usually don't leave marks you can feel it's visual only. Eventually goes away after you put time on it. If it was just the honing debris. It doesn't look like that to me.

What you got going on looks like a half assed plating job to me. Who did it? Seriously I would be pulling my top ends if I saw that. You can't even see cross hatching going around it uniformly inside the cylinder. For a fresh replate it looks worn out all ready.

Unless it's the picture causing it the lighter spots look like there's no plating. It looks like the bare aluminum. The plating should be the darker colour.

Showed my friend the pic - he says what plating? It looks worn out all ready.

Yeah I also thought it was flaking off but there's no ridges, completely smooth. It's like the nikasil itself is discolored. The dark line in the middle is also completly smooth, not grooved at all. Very strange.

The plating when I got it back looked fine to be honest. The ring gap was a little tight but that was it. It has less than 200km on it so whatever it is happened pretty quick. Probably plated it with chocolate it seems now..

Replating is such a hit and miss, I've never really had anyone do a good job  :-\

Powerseal usa did my spr cylinders did a set of nsr cylinders. My friends 2xt cylinders both my yz250 and yz125/144 cylinder. All came back as good as new no issues with them. Definitely look 100 times better than yours.

Yours looks like they were improperly cleaned. So the plating didn't cure take hold properly. I'd be pissed and be trying to get warranty work done from the plater. It looks hella amateurish.

Here's a pic of my spr cylinder right after replate. Your cylinder should still look like this.

TTW in the UK does plating also...generally just RGV-RS250 cylinders, but will do any (RGV's are at a bit of a discount though).

Finally fixed the holding on to revs issue. Took the carbs apart and squeezed one of the rubber plugs which to my surprise started disintegrating. Must have been drawing in air randomly from there. So pure luck basically.

carb.jpg

Put everything back and now the float bowls leak, so new seals on order. It never stops  ;D

Now just that erratic rev counter to sort.

Ignoring the cylinder plating issue for now.

Quote from: SeaR1ck on September 30, 2024, 04:07:18 PMHere's a pic of my spr cylinder right after replate. Your cylinder should still look like this.

Man that's a pretty perfect looking cylinder :o