I just got this last night. 2000km genuine bike but has been sitting since the last guy came off on the left side and parked it. Kicks over but obviously I will strip it. The tank looks totalled and the inside is full of damp scale but hopefully it will be able to hold fuel, I am optimistic that it will.
I have never had an early TZR so first question is are all the cranks and crank parts the same across the 2MA/1KT/2XT range? I will be stripping this one as a matter or course and will just fit new bearings etc as I'm at it.
Can you still buy pistons and rings from Yamaha.
Are all the gaskets the same
Does anyone know where I could get those decals from, this was a Japanese only bike from what I can see.
First Piston for 2XT are NLA from Yamaha Japan :(
Pistons are 56.35mm bore and nikasil cylinder bore is 56.40mm
Most of the parts in the engine are the same.
Faster to tell which ones differ...
- intake reed block and boot
- crank cases due to intake reeds
- cylinder + pistons
For my next rebuild I'll try TZR 1KT 57mm pistons and ask for a 57.05mm nikasil plating.
documentation from here as usual
http://www.pure-2-stroke-spirit.info/ (http://www.pure-2-stroke-spirit.info/)
Here my 2XT page...
http://rd500lc.free.fr/tzr-250-2xt/tzr250-2xt_en.htm (http://rd500lc.free.fr/tzr-250-2xt/tzr250-2xt_en.htm)
Some photos from here and there on 2XT
http://rd500lc.free.fr/forum/2xt/thumb.html (http://rd500lc.free.fr/forum/2xt/thumb.html)
Just add my TZR250 crank sheet for cross referencing ;D
Thanks for that Oliver, I couldn't see the parts book anywhere until you put the link up.
I pulled the motor out and the top end off today and of the four head studs that go through the water jacket and are exposed to the coolant three were already rusted and had snapped and the other one was about to give. The pistons are good and the rings look ok but I would expect them to be brittle so I am looking for a set at the moment. The crank looked clean but I haven't removed it yet.
The gearbox was well over filled with oil and the 2T tank had some water in the oil and the coolant level was low and the reserve tank was empty.
The mechanicals are all tidy and the bike should clean up well. The tank I have been blasting the rust out of with the fire hose and now its got rust remover in there for the night. The good news is it does not leak.
Got the tank cleaned up pretty well inside now. The rust removing solution was in there since Friday but didn't do much so I tossed it out and put about 50 tek screws in the tank and shook it up a bit and flushed it out. This got the crap that was stuck to the sides off and because it was softened from the soaking it was a pretty painless operation. The big dent is still in the side but for now I don't really care about that.
Mark has been giving me some info on the bikes so I have a better understanding of what goes and what doesn't.
Are you going to use anything to seal the tank now its been cleaned?
No, I have used liners in the past but now I just clean and get rid of the water with compressed air blowing in the tank for 30min or so. Then I wash it out with 2 stroke oil and flush with petrol. My TDR was almost as bad as this tank and that has ran perfectly for a year and I have not cleaned the carbs since.
Got the bottom end back together now. Good thing I pulled the crank out to do the seals the right one was all deformed on both sides like it had been exposed to the sun in the desert for a few years. So new crank seals, water pump seal flushed the crank and drowned it in 2T oil. Just waiting on the new head studs and rings to put the cylinders on.
I'm just getting this bike cleaned up and running not a resto job 8)
Where are you getting the studs from as I've just looked at mine and they need replacing?
Yamaha have them in stock here in Sydney so try your local dealer.
Will I need to change the CDI to get full power from the bike as its a Japanese bike. The CDI on the bike has a 2XT prefix but I can get my hands on a 2MY one. What other restrictions would I be looking at. I already know about the restrictor rings in the pipes but as these are being replaced anyway its not an issue. What sort of carb internals should I be looking for.
the 2xt CDI is a digital one and has the PV controller combined with it. you won't be able to swap it directly with the 2my one without changing a lot of other electrical parts.
Ok thanks for that. Is the 2XT CDI restricted? I was of the understanding that the Japanese bikes like the TDR were restricted through the CDI.
I don't believe that the 2XT is restricted via the CDI, however i'm happy to be proved wrong if anyone else knows better.
I read someone's opinion (can't remember where) that the R1-Z 3XC-70 CDI/PV controller (a rare and supposedly race-spec unit) is the same as the 2XT CDI/PV controller. If this is true, it would suggest that the 2XT CDI/PV controller is not restricted.
Can anyone confirm this?
Regards,
James
I have a UK spec TDR250 combined CDI/PV controller you could try if you wanted to compare.
Really need a better camera :o
I'm going to run the bike as it is instead of changing the electrics and see how it goes, thanks for the offer Mark. I am still waiting for the rings to arrive so I can finish the motor and the forks are being rechromed. I gave the foot rests, fork lowers and handle bars a quick sand blast to get the white crap off them.
My rings finally arrived after a month waiting :o Anyway I put the motor back together and in the frame and hooked up all the cables wiring etc and fired it up this afternoon. She is sweet as and super quiet which is what you would expect from a 2000k motor. I was just putting some fuel down the fuel hose to each carb to fire it up but when I knocked the choke off it started to labour and then cut out. Hopefully this is just due to the tank being off the bike and possibly needing a decent amount of fuel to give it a bit of pressure. Also I was running premix to get it fired up and then bled the pump so it was super rich.
I had to order a new fuel tap filter for inside the tank so I have another week to wait for that anyway. I also need a new chain and tyres, I think 1988 tyres may not be up to the job ;D
Good work Pat.
I'm trying to get up some enthusiasm to start looking at the bikes after two UK visits in a month.
Even walking around Spa didn't really perk me up even with all those fantastic bikes around.
I pick up the reworked Spondon frame tonight to perhaps that will do it............. :-\
Had the bike around the car park today and it runs well except the problem is still there with the carbs. if left to idle the bike will idle for a few seconds and then slowly start to drop off and stall. If I grab the throttle before it stalls its ok it will pick up again and when revved after about 2500 it revs clean. Below 2500 however it just labours and is like its out of fuel. After it stalls it wont start again without some serious stuffing around.
When I rev the bike it holds on to the revs like the pilots are blocked then drops back down. I put three fingers into the intake of the airbox when running and it is nice and crisp then doesn't hold the revs and is responsive, about 80% blocked off. I blocked off the intake and rode it but no good. I have raised the needle two and gone up on the main from 230 to 240, no difference.
I can here it sucking air in the airbox and struggling like its too lean.
Anyone got any suggestions because I have had enough for today >:(
The TZR carbs respond well to ultrasonic cleaning when there are symptoms like you describe.
Yea I might give them a dip tomorrow. I checked the float level again and it was spot on. It also seems to be the right side more so than the left.
I ended up putting a liner in the tank also after all
On my 2XT, the choke circuit was so bad that ultra sonic has no effect ...
I need to use a 3mm drill to have the choke working properly. :o
My choke works well and when the bike gets hot it makes no difference. I could just keep the idle at 4000 and not worry about it I suppose ;D
It does sound like pilots, especially check the tiny airway drillings in the venturi.
They connect down to nozzel area on some carbs. Are they primary or secondary nozzles (holes or no holes)?
Pull them apart totally and dunk them in the ultrasonic bath, and when you think they are good do them again ;D
One thing I have resorted too in the past is to use one strand of wire from a lighting cable flex (really fine) to poke through the tiny airway drillings.
If it wont go through it points to a blockage.
Now she is purring 8) I stripped the carbs and both pilots were blocked and also the passageway from the bowl to the body that are connected with the small rubber hose was also blocked on one carb. Now that's a total mystery as I stripped and cleaned them beforehand. The pilots do tend to block up straight away on some bikes I have found over the years so that's ok but the passageway was stuck firm and I had to get the tiny wire out to unblock it, I used a strand from a wire brush. Another swim in the tank and back together and now it's perfect.
I need new tyres before I go on the road and as the coating on the wheels is peeling everywhere and the wheels look disgraceful I will recoat them even though I didn't want to spent any money on bling.
I have to say the tank set up with the fuel hoses is a pretty piss poor attempt by Yamaha >:(
You are not wrong there Pat. Probably ok for road bikes where the tank is seldom removed.
i installed the sealing quick release clips to the pipes so I have no taps. - you probably remember them from eastern Creek?
Bit of a fumble everytime but less messy and convoluted. Would prefer to leave them connected but can't really rely on those piss poor needle valves on the flat slide TM28's that piss fuel out at the slightest invitation.
I was going to see if any taps would bolt straight to the tank but having gone this route i can't be bothered now.
Quote from: jools on July 30, 2013, 06:25:19 AM
I was going to see if any taps would bolt straight to the tank but having gone this route i can't be bothered now.
really hate the set up of the tap/vacuum system a simple on/off tap is what i wanted and a Yamaha TZR125 4DL works perfect and slots straight onto existing bracket..
(https://pure2strokespirit.net/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi288.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fll192%2Fmickey007_1966%2F15102011223.jpg&hash=d3dcb3e029706b70c9c1de94769bdefc43321319) (http://s288.photobucket.com/user/mickey007_1966/media/15102011223.jpg.html)
Good thinking Mick, I will look into that. My tap is leaking a bit now anyway from the diaphragm so some attention is required.
Quote from: Mick on July 30, 2013, 01:12:42 PM
Quote from: jools on July 30, 2013, 06:25:19 AM
I was going to see if any taps would bolt straight to the tank but having gone this route i can't be bothered now.
really hate the set up of the tap/vacuum system a simple on/off tap is what i wanted and a Yamaha TZR125 4DL works perfect and slots straight onto existing bracket..
Well done for finding the 4DL tap is a straight swap! I have already done a ZXR750 tap conversion to eliminate the vacuum operation: http://pure2strokespirit.net/forums/index.php?topic=887.msg9804#msg9804 (http://pure2strokespirit.net/forums/index.php?topic=887.msg9804#msg9804). The FZR250 3LN tap can also be used, but needs an adaptor made as well.
Regards,
James
Got the bike engineered now so I just need the inspection and we are on the road.
But and there is always a but fuel is leaking past the float valves and flooding the chamber so the bike all but refuses to start. When it does and clears its sweet though. No surprise that they have failed really. Now I have 3 bikes with carby trouble :-[ best get to work then
I also picked up and pair of complete rear sets pegs etc off Yahoo along with a seat cowl and a side panel.
Swopped out the dodgy valve for a spare used one I had and so far so good. Going to put a few more litres in the tank overnight and see what happens
Pat,
where did you get the bike engineered ? i need to consider this for my RD350A.
You wouldn't know where there is a TDR250 for sale by chance ??
Jools a guy from Narellan does them for Old Gold Motorcycles. I just take the bike back to Old Gold and he comes around every week and does five or six bikes at a time. Costs around $300 for the bikes they import not sure if he may add on a few more $$$ for other bikes. About $350 is the standard fee they all charge.
Ask Steve at Old Gold about a TDR he just sold off two more a few months ago and is always on the look out for strokers. He will add you to the list and call when he finds one.
I took the bike for a sneaky spin up the road and after it cleared itself out it went well. The front end needs to be straightened in the clamps but it rode pretty nice. I did forget about the 25 year old tyres but soon remembered when I tipped into the roundabout :o
Got a few goodies in the post today 8)
New aftermarket seat cowl, wrong colour mind, good rearsets and a spare rear side panel as mine is gouged out. Its not perfect but for $2.60 its good enough ;D
Ready for action now. Had the wheels powder coated and new tyres fitted, BT45s, cleaned up the right pipe and did a cut and shut on a few different pipes to make one good one using some pipes I got from Mark. Still need to paint the seat unit and hand blisters but I might replace the decals on the entire bike. One seller on ebay UK says he will do any colour you want so I will send him a piece of my decal and get him to match it up.
Nice work there. ;)
Let us know how she runs.
Looking good! Thanks for the update.
How does the seat cowl fit? I am interested in one for my 2ME. Did you get one from Classic Race Replicas?
Tim
I got this one out of Japan, I think $45au it cost. It fits well and I am happy with it.
Can you share the info on the supplier? Near as I can figure, the one out if the UK will cost me about $150 USD!
He sells under the name of sponge bob on Yahoo and will ship over seas. I will try and find him and post a link up. Not sure how you will go if you cant understand Japanese, you might have to use Mori man or someone like that.
This is him but he hasn't got any listed at the moment but he would have some in stock so keep watching.
http://page17.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/v309918484
Finally got the first ride in on the bike today, its been registered for the last few weeks but its been pissing rain here since then. Nice to ride too and has a fair bit of torque down low. I'm happy with the way this has turned out and for what it has cost me its a good result. As soon as I find someone to do the plus decals I might even paint it.
I watched a 2XT in Japan the other night it was pretty impressive ... Some Japanese are crazy :o
look at this http://gtortoise2004.blog.fc2.com/blog-entry-20.html (http://gtortoise2004.blog.fc2.com/blog-entry-20.html)
^^ that thing is quick, not sure if the tacho is accurate (14k rpm..) but it has some nice overrev!
I spoke too soon, had the bike out again today for a proper ride and had a few issues. First the speedo cable broke but that's OK then the temp guage climbed for the sky after about 35km, no idea why it was 6 30am and foggy outside. From what I can make out the battery being almost flat was causing an electrical issue because when I pressed the brake the needle bounced around a bit. I pulled up and it dropped back down after a few minutes then went back up again, I will need to investigate more. Other than that all was well though 8)
I had a look around the bike last night and found the wire for the temp probe was loose and dirty so it was breaking down but that was only a minor detail. I decided to check the thermostat to see if it was stuck closed and it was actually stuck open and bent and all gummed up so I'm surprised it even worked for the 35km it did. Anyway I pinched the one out of the R1-Z and put it in and it was sorted. Now of course I need one for the R1-Z ::)