3XV Big Off rebuild

[shanem4422]

great detailed thread, some good reading here

[yanw]

FFS, it goes from bad to worse.

The Chinese bodywork, that took four weeks from payment to get painted before it took three weeks to get delivered arrived today.

They sent 3MA bodywork. The auction listing and all the pictures shows 3XV stuff.

I've started a dispute but I am absolutely seething.

I kinda remember someone else on a forum having this problem and sending them a book in return to cut down on the return postage costs? Was that one of you guys?

[Paul]

cr@p!!! what to$$ers!!

[fozzy]

Not good, I got r1 bodywork on way and rg500 to be fair they sent me a picture of the r1 before sending

[yanw]

Not posted anything for a while.

I got the replacement bodywork from China, just had to pay the customs charge again.

I managed, with some Martin77 headers donated from Dan, to make some headers for the SP Tadao SPR pipes I have. Not the best welding ever but I'm doing it myself and learning while enjoying myself. Thanks Dan, you're a diamond.



I finally got some time to refit the carbs and airboxes (need to get me a spider-monkey to do my spannering, there is no space whatsoever) and got it to run up today. The lesson I learned today was to fit the choke plungers before putting the carbs on the rubbers.

http://www.yan.org.uk/forums/build/3xv9_runup.mp4

The RHS carb is overflowing, I guess it needs a new float valve/seat and the tap was leaking a smidge. Hopefully the tap rubber will swell and I won't need to repair it.

I'll start working out the cut down subframe for the bodywork next, while I wait for parts. I got a 3XV rear light and a subframe for £40 in total. The plan is to convert it to a Sugo like brackets with enough "meat" left to hang a number plate and the light off. I've looked at other rear lights but got a 3XV one (which will fit the bodywork gap nicely and has the correct connectors) for less than a eBay/LED special.

[maccas]

No worries on the flanges Yan, I'm just glad you've managed to make use of the SPR pipes with them!

It sounds lovely, keep cracking on with it! I expect it will feel a bit stronger to ride with those pipes just as is but what are your plans longer term?

Happy Christmas mate!

Dan

[yanw]

The plan is to get it running on the road this year. Next winter is sorting the slightly scored bore, Martin77 porting, new pistons and seals/bearings. Winter after that is programmable ignition.

[Paul]

Well done Yan. Thought your 3xv was going to be a non-event.

[yanw]

Well, went for an MoT and passed first time, no advisories.

I'm off to see some paint matchers on Monday so I can get the tank and seat cowl sprayed up. Then it's just a plug chop to check if the slightly larger jets (one size each side) are OK for the new spannies.

Either way she's ready enough for the Pescott Bike Festival next month (I'm #57 for the hill climb) http://www.prescottbikefestival.co.uk/

[maccas]

How does it feel with the pipes on Yan?

Dan

[yanw]

It sounds good Dan and pulled ok. I didn't wring it's neck as it was damp and I didn't want to drop it again so soon. When I opened it up it bogged a bit but I think that was from all the oil from bleeding the new lines. I looked in the mirrors and the cars behind were coming out of a blue fog  .

I bought some new plugs at the bike shop so I will take it out for chop one dry evening this week. I've done the SP airbox mod as well so I need to check the jetting.

I spent the afternoon spraying high build primer on my spare tank but I will need another tin.

I'll report back in the week.

[Scotty4321]

Bloody Hell, it's on the road! Nice one Yan

[yanw]

Man alive, I don't know who is the most surprised, my mates, my wife, the guys at the bike shop or you lot  . You'd think it was off the road for nearly three years....

[yanw]

I have the tank and tail piece sprayed up now and vinyl lettering applied. It will go to have some 2-pack clear coat sprayed on Monday.

I am just now finishing off fitting the bodywork. You can make nice mirror blanks with a 20mm 6mm domed hex head, a couple of washers, a nylock nut and some 10mm/6mm clear tubing.

I've also gone out tonight I'm taxed and done a plug chop. I have done the SP mod to the upper/left airbox and I have the new pipes. I have already gone up a size from standard (I had a set with a Posh Firm box I've fitted). I think that they look OK but any advice is greatfully received. There is more colour on one side of both plugs but that could be me not getting the throttle shut quick enough perhaps?

[yanw]

It's getting "almost done" now. The tank and tailpiece are being picked up tomorrow from getting some 2-pack clearcoat sprayed over my "rattle can learning experience" and today I have been replacing the "China" bodywork fixings with some Dzus fasteners.

If you do buy "China" bodywork and want to bling it with some Dzus fasteners then hopefully the following notes will help out. Even if you don't go down this route you will probably need the first two items off the list to avoid having to drill out existing factory fitted Dzus back-plates:

3 x 17mm Dzus "bolts" with a nylon and securing washer. These are for the frame fitted Dzus back-plates. There is one on the RHS near the bottom rear of the front panel, one on the LHS near the bottom middle of the front panel and one to fix the bracket (see next item) to the bottom rear "finger" of the LHS front panel to the hanger that bolts to the LHS exhaust rear mount.

1 x bracket for the LHS front panel "finger" and a pop-rivet to fix it to the panel. You can order the item from Yamaha {3XV-28357-00} (~£10) however it was showing as out of stock with Fowlers. I made my own using some 1mm sheet aluminium (see picture below).

4 x 17mm Dzus "bolts" with a nylon and securing washer, Dzus back-plate and two pop-rivets. These are for the two mounting holes from upper cowl to the two front side panels.

4 x 15mm  Dzus "bolts" with a nylon and securing washer, Dzus back-plate and two pop-rivets. These are for the two mounting holes in each of the two front panels that bolt onto the V-piece.

8 x M5 bodywork bolts and back-plates. You will need two to connect the V-piece to the upper cowl, four to fix the two rear panels together and maybe two to join the two front panels underneath the bike if those lugs have been added to the "China" bodywork.

I got all the bits from an eBay seller called "Trumpet Tires". The delivery time was good and the fastners are of good quality. Single "bolts" (and washers) are around £2 each and the same with a back-plate and two rivets are around £3.

Hopefully I can post up some pictures tomorrow with the bike "fully dressed".