Project: Garage Find

[squirrel_hunter]

The engine has been powder coated. Just need to do the final prep on it checking bolt holes and do a dry build first to check it will go back together. Need to decide if I'm going to replace the gear selector drum bearing and then clean everything up. The crank should be ready shortly and I think I have all the bits I need here...

[Crank]

Looking right and tight 

[squirrel_hunter]

Now for some more attention to detail, the rear brake light assembly and number plate mudguard.



The original brake light wasn't very nice. It had been drilled for the LED from the alarm.



And even a spare I picked up with a mudguard and brackets wasn't up to scratch. I kept the brackets as these had been modified for the alarm, but that was all. So with the spares back unit and the originals wiring I cleaned it all up.



Then eBay unearthed a new lens cover so I had that for a bargain price. And stuck that on.



Fully assembled the brake light unit is as good as new.



So I married it up with the number plate mudguard I cleaned up earlier and some powder coated brackets (including one that I spent a little time bending back into line).



And stuck it on the bike. But not before I added a set of new indicators as the others had a few road related marks on them. Interestingly the indicators are different part numbers for the left and right, but the only difference is the colour of the wires which did make plugging them in a little easier.



And as for the detail, the tool kit retaining strap. The catches are a mixture of new and old Hammerited black. Just a shame I don't have the original tool kit.

[squirrel_hunter]

Rear wheel is now in.



But as usual there are one or two issues. Excluding the problem I have refitting the pillion footpegs to their hangers that I think I might have a solution to.



The first is the exposed metal on the sprocket carrier. At first I thought it was not in quite right, but comparison with a spare rear I can see it is.



The sprocket carrier was originally painted. But as I had it powder coated it was blasted back first. If I were to have had it coated I'm sure I would have had more fitment issues. I have thought of painting it, chuck a bit of Hammerite on it. But then that might give similar problems. So at the moment I'm thinking of leaving it. Besides once I get some miles on it I'm sure it will look like my spare with the lube fling.

Now for the other problem, the axel lock nut.



The wheel is in correctly but isn't torqued up as that will be done when the chain is on. But as you may be able to see the lock nut for the axel nut is not fully on the axel as you can see a totally clean thread ring in the lock nut which indicates its never before seen the light of day while in use.

Now I don't think that this will be a problem as once the main nut is tight it shouldn't go anywhere and its only out by 1 thread. But its going to be playing on my mind.

But why is it like that I wonder. I've checked all my photos and I don't have one that shows the original fitment of the axel nuts but presume that the lock nut was right at the end of axel. I'm thinking that the thread has been lost due to the additional width I've added due to the powder coat. Though thin it all adds up, there is powder on both sides of the swing arm inside and out, both faces of the chain adjustment guides, and powder on the caliper hanger bracket. Not much but it all adds up.

So my options as I see them are to shave a load of the powder coating off of various places. Find a thinner lock nut. Or to replace both axel nuts with a single locking nut like on my SV. I'm thinking of the latter option unless anyone can suggest otherwise?

[KeLeYTiS]

I am looking at this thread from the start

Nice work man , really love your enthusiasm to bring this back to life

[Mick]

Now for the other problem, the axel lock nut.



The wheel is in correctly but isn't torqued up as that will be done when the chain is on. But as you may be able to see the lock nut for the axel nut is not fully on the axel as you can see a totally clean thread ring in the lock nut which indicates its never before seen the light of day while in use.

Now I don't think that this will be a problem as once the main nut is tight it shouldn't go anywhere and its only out by 1 thread. But its going to be playing on my mind.

But why is it like that I wonder. I've checked all my photos and I don't have one that shows the original fitment of the axel nuts but presume that the lock nut was right at the end of axel. I'm thinking that the thread has been lost due to the additional width I've added due to the powder coat. Though thin it all adds up, there is powder on both sides of the swing arm inside and out, both faces of the chain adjustment guides, and powder on the caliper hanger bracket. Not much but it all adds up.

So my options as I see them are to shave a load of the powder coating off of various places. Find a thinner lock nut. Or to replace both axel nuts with a single locking nut like on my SV. I'm thinking of the latter option unless anyone can suggest otherwise?

Just looked at my 1KT and mines is defo showing 1 thread longer than thin lock nut,I also had my swingarm,caliper carrier Powder coated but haven't removed any of it.I did have to remove coating from where caliper carrier bolts to caliper as it was out of line(off centre) with rear disc.I'd go with latter option and put a nylon lock nut on

[squirrel_hunter]

Right, this update should have been quite good, with a nice bit of progress being made. However things did not go quite to plan.

But first a little good news. The tank bracket is on. Its taken a little longer than I expected as I needed to cable tie the mounting rubbers on. The trouble there was I couldn't find a cable thin enough to fit in the grove, but long enough to get all the way round. Eventually I tracked a bag of the right size down at my local Maplins.



I also slipped the flasher relay on an pugged it in. The cable appears a little tighter than I would have wanted so will have to see if its going to get in the way at all or if I need to give the loom a bit of a giggle once more of the bike is together.

But now the bad news. This post should have had the front brake assembly completed in it however after completely rebuilding the brakes it all came apart at the last stage. All I needed to do was to put the new bleed nipple in and as it tightened it ready for the fluid to be poured in I noticed that it wasn't tightening.

The bleed nipple thread has stripped.

This leaves me a bit of an issue as I need to get the pistons and seals out to use in my spare caliper, but as I can't fill this caliper how am I going to do this?

[stevewr250]

If you have new pistons and seals they should just pull out if they are tight just try to blow them out with compressed air but keep a rag over them you don't want to see your new pistons flying across the room good luck

[squirrel_hunter]

The seals are new the pistons are originals, but cleaned up.

I do have a compressor but what sort of attachment can I use as there is no thread in there for me to create a seal with anything?

[stevewr250]

All you can do is hold nozil up to caliper by hand it should work you don't need much pressure.

[squirrel_hunter]

I would have though it would need a fair bit of pressure, but I'm willing to try it...

[stevewr250]

I've seen it work on realy crapy calipers so yours will be smooth and free.it will not damage you're new seals or pistons so go for it good luck  if it does not work you can tap a new thread for any attachments then try again.

[Mick]

they will pop out easy with compressed air Steve the hardest job is to get all four moving at same time because if one pops out before all others have moved your stuck.I normally split the caliper into two halves so you only work on 2 pistons at a time.

[squirrel_hunter]

If I split the caliper what would you suggest plugging the joining holes with?

[Mick]

On one side it'll only have the one fluid hole so you pump compressed air directly down hole,at work we fit a 6mm plastic air hose to air valve/trigger so it fits snuggly over hole.On the other halve with bleed nipple remove the nipple  and blast air directly down it and using your hand to hold caliper put your finger over fluid hole to plug it..The pstion will 'pop' out quite easy oh and they do go with a pop when they fly out of housing