News:

📋 Model Histories / Paint Codes etc:
https://pure2strokespirit.net/
📒 All Manual and Resource Downloads:
Google Drive

💡 Paypal to admin[at]pure2strokespirit.net for donations that go toward the hosting costs :) Add your forum username in the message to get a forum supporter tag (-P)

Main Menu

Project: Garage Find

Started by squirrel_hunter, January 20, 2013, 02:03:21 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.

jcsnook

Good stuff!  Man, that is one grimey engine.  Bet you can't wait to get it as clean as the rest of the restored bike  ;)
If your not mixing gas, your not hauling ass!

squirrel_hunter

I have a rotor puller.



The rotor has been pulled.



Not sure why 3 of the coils are so different and why there is a random bit of yellow insulated wire in between 2 of the coils. If anyone has any suggestions I'd be interested to know?



With the top off I can see the crank and the gear box. And I can also see one of the things I've forgotten to order... I received a new left, right, and centre crank bearing, trouble is it needs 2 centre bearings.

Anyway crank and input shaft came out fine, just lifted up. The output shaft (the one with the sprocket on the end) needed a little more persuasion. I think it might have been the sprocket oil seal that was a little more sealed then it should have been.



There is some sludge in the oil but lets face it, 20 years of not doing much. Then there was some dirt in there as well but I think that is more during disassembly then it already being there.

Gear box removal was a little more involved then it should have been. The selector shaft was blocked from coming out by a tab washer.



The manual didn't say anything about this, once a retaining plate was removed I should have just been able to pull it out. So as I didn't need much more room I decided to bend the tab to get the shaft out. Will check clearance on everything once it goes back together. Worse case I have to bend it back or replace it but hopefully it wont come to that.



So that's the engine apart. Spent the evening cleaning it up as it was just plastered in dirt and grime. There is a recess in between the barrels that was just filled with dirt. I spent so long digging dirt out of it I thought I was going to hit Australia or at least recreate the Shawshank Redemption. But the strangest thing was the old 5p piece I found blocking a drain slit between the reed blocks. Rich, rich I tells ya.

Going to take the top case into South Cerney tomorrow for the stud removal and get them to have a quick look over it for me as well. Hopefully will get the engine paint underway this week and decide what to do with the rest of the internals. Any suggestions on what I need to look for and or what I should do to it (I'm thinking full crank rebuild) and who to do it will be appreciated.

mikee

This is a great thread , you must be chuffed to bits with it thus far

The generators are all like that , the 3 odd coils are the ignition windings ,all the others are fro main electrical generation ( I think )

I'd just do a general inspection of the bits , they're pretty tough little engines these so may not need much doing to it
Check the selector forks for blueing , power valve bushes and spools for wear ,gear selector shaft and
Bush for wear damage ,bores&  rings for wear and that's about it
The cranks are robust for a stroker , but would be as well to get ti checked after standing so long
Rust and lack of use kill more cranks there days sadly

Looking forward to the next instalment

Get on with it  :)

Mike

stevewr250

Hi do yourself a favour and get a new tab washer don't bend the old one back it will be weakened and could snap off.you don't want to ruin all your good work for the sake of a fiver ;) keep up the good work.

squirrel_hunter

Quote from: mikee on July 13, 2013, 01:02:04 PMGet on with it  :)

I'm doing my best, just a little behind with the updates. But just to keep you going, the engine will be collected from the painters next week and the frame is really coming together. Just trying to get the pistons out of the calipers without having to rebuild and then strip them multiple times.

Quote from: stevewr250 on July 13, 2013, 04:36:33 PM
Hi do yourself a favour and get a new tab washer don't bend the old one back it will be weakened and could snap off.you don't want to ruin all your good work for the sake of a fiver ;) keep up the good work.

Yep your right. If I have to bend it back then I will replace it, if not then I will leave it. But that is if I can workout what part number it is?

stevewr250

part number is 90215-08174 i think  ;)

squirrel_hunter

Quote from: stevewr250 on July 14, 2013, 09:00:53 AM
part number is 90215-08174 i think  ;)

Thanks, I have a replacement ready now if needed.

squirrel_hunter

So the latest... Not 100% convinced on the fork alignment, looks a tiny bit out by the eye but miles off in a picture. I am trying not to panic yet, hoping that another bounce will sort it once the brakes are on.

But before I do that the latest on the engine. And from South Cerney the stud has been removed from the casing. The gearbox, including selectors have been given a clean bill of heath. The pistons and barrels have also been looked over and nothing is needed there. The head has also been checked and there is nothing wrong there either. The basics is, its good. So that's a bit of good news.

So next I dropped the engine down to Bristol Motorcycle Powder Coating who did the frame and then stopped off at Piston Broke Engineering, Bristol (0117) 9412300 for him to take a look at the barrels and pistons too. Had barely got them out the box before he told me what engine they were from. He looked over them and confirmed that it was on its first oversize as the original bust its ring. He then went on to tell me all about the problems that Yamaha had with the original TZR250 pistons and the rebore sizes they used. Its that knowledge that you simply don't get from a main dealer. Anyway again barrels and pistons are good, and the crank has been left with him to strip, replace the main bearing and see if anything else needs doing.

squirrel_hunter

Back to some pictures and back to the steering. One of the things I wasn't totally happy with was the steering bearings, I did them up originally by feel but that had been playing on my mind for a bit as I don't have the experience to do these things by feel. So Yamaha tells me that I need to torque them up to 40nm, then loosen one turn, then torque to 20nm. Easy. But only easy if you have a C-Spanner which you can fit on a torque wrench, I didn't.

So a search of the internet was more or less fruitless as its easy to find a C-Spanner, but to find one with a wrench adapter, and for then to fit the nut, not so easy. I did find one possible, but I found it was for a bigger nut when it arrived. So I gave up and ordered one from Yamaha. Not cheap but at least its done properly now.



So with that set and the top yoke on I added the bar risers. But not just any bar risers. The originals have some thin rolled aluminium pins to act as locators. The ones I had were not exactly straight. So I got Rolling Art to make me some new ones.



Its something you will never see, but it makes me happy. The risers got a coat of silver Hammerite and then went on the bike along with some new handlebars and the originals were a bit ground down from the road.



Like I say, the photos make the steering look worse than it actually appears in the flesh. Also put the replacement ignition switch in. Forgot to paint it before adding the new switch sticker from Yambits so lightly sanded the edge so it now has a sliver ring around its outside. The Yambits sticker needed a little modification to fit but lines up perfectly.

Jakes

That's nice progress 8)

How exactly does the torque wrench attach to that c spanner? And what the the part number  :)

Crank

Top job so far, going to look better than new!

squirrel_hunter

Quote from: Jakes on July 18, 2013, 08:38:11 AMHow exactly does the torque wrench attach to that c spanner? And what the the part number  :)

A good question. When I looked at it first I thought it was some funny Torx type drive that I'd need, but not so. The star socket is just two 3/8" drives at opposing angles. So any 3/8" wrench will fit. I stuck it on the end of my wrench at 90ยบ.

And the part number is 90890-01403 it is still a current part so try your local dealer.

squirrel_hunter

Now one of the things that has been bothering me since taking the seat off has been the wiring. The loom has had it issues as could been seen when dismantling the bike but with the loom off of the bike they are more apparent.



The alarm was a bit of an issue.



As were some of the connectors at the front.



And the fuse box and wiring around it.



So what to do with this. I looked around and bought a second hand loom that turned out to be in worse condition then the one from the bike. Yamaha could no longer supply me one and neither could any international supplier that I know of. So I put the word out and Mick put me in contact with a chap called Ed from the Air Cooled RD Forum.

It turns out that Ed is an electrical wizard and in his spare time he makes looms for RD's. So had a bit of a chat with him and sent him my loom. I was told that it was actually in good condition with the alarm removed and I could get away with some repairs. However I had my heart set on a new one. So using the original loom and a wiring diagram he made a map and set about building me a new loom.

There were a couple of wire colours he couldn't find and some connectors he couldn't get, but using a similar colour wire and some of the connectors from the scrap loom a few weeks later a new loom arrived for me...



The connectors at the front look awesome.



Ed wired me in a new replacement Yambits fuse box.



And even put up with my requests for connectors for the battery sub loom.



I honestly don't know what I would have done without having been put in touch with Ed. What he has supplied me is even better than I could have thought, it looks just like Yamaha have sent me one, it really looks that good. Now if anyone is wondering if they can have one, Ed is a very busy man, but now he's done one and he has the loom map he may be able to find the time to make another so if you need to I can put you in touch with him and you can go from there.

All I have to do now is fit it to the bike.

Paul

unbelievable!! good stuff, shite it never ends on this thread. it's happy days all round!! keep it up.
the twins:-
TZR250 3xv
TZ250 4DP2

Mick

Brilliant news on the new loom Steve,Ed's work is very highly rated on Aircooled forum and glad I could help in some way.Judging by the effort you are putting into this build it'll end up looking like it came out of the factory..Not sure if you have a paint sprayer lined up but i use one in Nottinghamshire..

Andy Flinders
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TZR-250-2MA-FULL-PAINTWORK-DECAL-KIT-/271241933207?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item3f27477197
Pic of my paintwork
http://i931.photobucket.com/albums/ad152/andy2bikes/motorcycle%20paintwork/SAM_0075.jpg" border="0" />


My TDR125R
Twitchy left hand rider ;-)