SPR & RS

[SouthCoastRich]

And yes, this is just a test fit so I didn't bother aligning the dots 

I did hesitate before suggesting the alignment to you, but better safe than sorry!

[R-G-V]

nice bikes and great build,same bike as my 3xv8

[ybk]

^^ I really like the 3XV8 colour scheme, those yellow number plates are cool.

Bled the brakes using a method I saw a Japanese guy do - using one of those shower cream pumps. I was skeptical but it works rather well, really helps with getting a dry brake system going. The fronts were bled with good feel within in an hour, cracked the top banjo bolt to get any air trapped there and left the lever strapped overnight. Much faster than my previous attempts..



Next up the engine. Put the crank in, here is my procedure, please add to it if I missed anything? Thought it might be useful for Southcoastrich 

• I put a bead of yamabond on both cases then evenly and thinly spread it out. I actually used a cut up yogurt lid, a wide piece works nicely. I think the manual says only one side but a thin covering on both has worked for me (the pic makes it look thicker than it is)
• Pop in the 2 locating dowels, water galley gasket and metal support under the right hand bearing
• Some grease on the insides of the left and right crank seals, and lube the outside of the seals with some gearbox oil
• Add a little 2T oil to the bearings and big ends
• Pop the crank in and place the 3 crank bearing locating pins in their respective recesses in the case, check crank spins easily
• Check the 3x seals are seated properly in their grooves
• Close up the crank with the other case, try to check that the seals seat properly as well in the upper case. The 2 cases should mesh fairly easy. Check that the conrods don't poke through the read cages
• Tighten 15 bolts in the 2 stage process as per manual

I replaced this seal on the clutch hub as well, I usually forget about it in favor of the larger one that sits in the clutch cover. Weirdly it's missing on the parts book, it's on the parts app though.

[SeaR1ck]

Uhh you're gonna hate this because I made the same mistake too the first time. But you have the right side seal backwards.

It needs to go the other way around luckily you can still fix this. But your gonna have to split the cases again. Sorry.

But I'm saving you from a headache. I had mine all back together. After like 30 mins of running how you have yours now it ruined the seal tore it around the shaft. I got about 250 miles on mine now since I fixed it.

[ybk]

Hmm, all the motors I've taken apart to date had it that way round (one with only 5000km that looked like it has never been open). The manual has 2 pictures where you can spot the seal the 'wrong' way round as well:

[maccas]

Agreed, Karel has the seal fitted the correct way around.

Dan

[Warwick]

Yup, seal is oriented correctly. 

[SouthCoastRich]

• Check that the conrods don't poke through the read cages

I never thought of that but you can bet your life I would have done that 

Massively useful Karel - thank you! I know TZRTim is also doing this procedure too.

Just a thought on the right side seal - it's a historic debate and there's a lot of previous on this... I've read *all the posts* and all the archive posts! I looked at it like the water pump seal (which is clearly labelled) where the spring is on the side where the gear oil is, and the flat surface faces whatever variable, volatile outside environment exists (coolant, crank void).

Don't know why yours tore up SeaR1ck 

[SeaR1ck]

Not sure but if you look in the 91 manual it shows it the other way around. I knew I saw it the other way around in the spr manual which is the same as the 93 94 RS n SP.

I thought I fucked it up because when I took it apart. The seal part with the spring that goes around the crankshaft.

Was torn and the spring was off. Maybe it was just a bad seal. My initial reaction was  that the drive gear might have tore it up.

Bike is running sweet now with it the other way around.

[SouthCoastRich]

I guess it doesn't matter so much but I found this supporting the "spring to the oil" thoughts. Of course you won't find anything 2 stroke specific  https://jrcengineering.com/technical-support/install-guides/which-way-do-i-install-the-oil-seal/

Glad yours is running well, that's the main thing!

[Warwick]

Not sure but if you look in the 91 manual it shows it the other way around. I knew I saw it the other way around in the spr manual which is the same as the 93 94 RS n SP.

I thought I fucked it up because when I took it apart. The seal part with the spring that goes around the crankshaft.

Was torn and the spring was off. Maybe it was just a bad seal. My initial reaction was  that the drive gear might have tore it up.

Bike is running sweet now with it the other way around.

There is a slightly misleading diagram in the 3XV1/2 manual which perhaps leads to this confusion? But if you look at the motor pictures all show the seal oriented the way Karel has it. As has every from-the-factory 3XV motor I've ever stripped, so I think we can confirm without doubt that the seal should be fitted as Karel has it.       

[ybk]

So this has been dragging on forever and time ran out. I had to get the bike in the system due to ABS requirements coming into effect 1 Nov. So fast forward 2 weeks of working before work in the morning and at night I managed to go from half an engine on the bench to a running bike..

Didn't really have time to document it so here is the shortest time lapse ever..

Suddenly the motor is assembled in the frame...



Add a little body work,



Just testing, started 3rd kick or so



Both ready for roadworthy tests,



Everything went pretty smooth but not really cool to rush everything. Still need to do proper cable routing and put lighter weight oil in the forks.

The biggest glitch were the carb intake manifolds - while bleeding the solenoid oil pump I accidentally bled some oil into the manifold which instantly started leaking where the manifold meets the cases. I used a little Yamabond between all the surfaces but apparently not enough. Had to pull everything out, ditch the gasket and seal everything up with 1215. Anybody else considering Yamabond, just use TB 1215 instead. Maybe I got a bad batch or something but the Yamabond I used was very flimsy. 1215 makes a better seal.

A blessing in disguise though as that leak would have been quite an issue. A leak down test would have caught it but time was an issue so yeah lesson learnt. Another problem is the manifolds are now 25 years old and not as supple anymore so I would recommend using sealant regardless.

The next phase will be to sort out all the details on the bike then look at the sugo cdi and getting the DFR pipes on.

[Warwick]

Looking great, Karel!  It's amazing how a looming deadline can really get the spanners flying, isn't it? 

[bulldogboy]

  both looking great, nice one.what is that single seat unit? Looks pretty cool.
What are the ABS rules about?

[SeaR1ck]

Looking sweet. You wouldn't happen to have kept your old pistons n rings from the spr? Needing one so get it copied for reproduction.