3xv: Project Phoenix

[Steveog]

Warwick - Sorry to be such a lame-ass about this simple question. Thanks for your patience and quick help.

I found some aftermarket TZ fitments of the proper 15/39 sprockets on Accuproducts website. Much less expensive than OEM from Japan.

Good news. Just today, I've received three (3) shipments of parts. Amazing how a few seals and bearings can change your mood.

Steve

[Warwick]

No bother. It's always better to ask the question than to fumble in the dark, Steve  .   

Yeah, I love a little parcel of promise waiting for me on the doormat when I come home from work too  . Rick at accu-products has always been good for me when I've ordered from him. When the £ was really strong against the dollar a few years ago it was sometimes cheaper to order pars from Rick than to order them in the UK. Even with the postage on top.   

[jools]

If its a genuine TZ rear sprocket and you are using the std 3XV wheel fittings you will need to open the mounting holes out to 10mm. TZ are 8mm.

[Hoatso]

This is a good source for parts in the US. They also sell TZ and other 2T parts.

http://www.tso.us.com/parts-book/yamaha/0250tzr250/0250-main/2_index/tzr250-main.asp

[Steveog]

If its a genuine TZ rear sprocket and you are using the std 3XV wheel fittings you will need to open the mounting holes out to 10mm. TZ are 8mm.

Thanks, Jools. I purchased "Talon" sprockets. TZ spec. Yes. I was prepared to open up the mounting holes. Appreciate the heads-up.

This is a good source for parts in the US. They also sell TZ and other 2T parts.

http://www.tso.us.com/parts-book/yamaha/0250tzr250/0250-main/2_index/tzr250-main.asp

Great source, Hoatso. I gave it a quick look. Good to find a TZR/3xv specific site in the US. I feel as though I could have purchased a new bike based on shipping expenses alone these past few months. Thanks.

[Steveog]

Bits an pieces keep arriving. Just got some bearings from Bolton's in the UK...including the swing-arm thrust bearings ala' SP. (Thanks Warwick and Andy Bush) The pivot shaft bushing is to arrive Wednesday. A local source provided IKO roller bearings.

Took the cases to be glass bead blasted. My local guy demoed what it will look like using a portion of the clutch cover. Beautiful. The owner advised I stick the the cases in the dish washer before assembly, blow out all the orifices with compressed air and dry with heat gun. Sounds good...assuming I can properly judge the time when the wife won't be around. Yes, the cases are completely clear of all bearings, rubber and plastic. He is only blasting the exterior of the motor, which I prepped with engine de-greaser and high pressure water.

Mostly, just working on cleaning and prepping everything I can for now. That said: I was cleaning the Variable Air Jets today. Had a thought. (One per day is about right.) Has anyone tried to route cool air into the VAJ by extending the intake hose/nozzle away from the engine bay?

It wouldn't be very hard to do. It always seems cool air is better for internal combustion. Why Not?

Thanks

Steve

[ybk]

Cases look real nice, love the matte finish.  Should match those barrels nicely now

[Steveog]

Thanks, Karl. I was pleased, too. Appreciate your keeping an eye on my project.

Now, I have to wash or somehow clean the interior of the cases before beginning the build. What are your thoughts on soap and water? One would be warm water (dishwasher) or cold, but much higher pressure (car wash). A tub of mineral spirits was mentioned by one of the techs at the media blasting company, but then how do you clean off that product?

All opinions welcome.

Steve

[mellorp]

Paraffin or diesel. Dry in the sun

[Steveog]

Thanks, Phil. Diesel it shall be.

[Toop]

I use diesel sometimes but I prefer kerosene (kerosen lamp it's called) ... then rinse with water 

[Steveog]

Toop. I can get both forms of fuel, but am not familiar with "kerosene lamp". The kerosene, locally is more expensive than gasoline, so I'm guessing its OK. I've been using it to clean chain lube and does a great job.

Thanks for you help.

Steve

[Toop]

Yes it is more expensive, but cleans better and is more 'dry'. it is eliminated with a simple and fast rinsing with water unlike diesel which leaves a deposit.

With less that two liters I just made a old M51 BMW six cylinder engine complete with accessory and pumps  when I did his restoration

I use it as machines 'fountain' to clean the mechanics with the help of an old toothbrush, it becomes black but continues to remove dirt. It settles at rest in the bottom of the container, then I continue to use the liquid until exhaustion.

[Steveog]

Thanks, Toop. That sounds like we're talking about the same grade of kerosene. The stuff I used, cleaning off 27 years of chain lube, could have been filtered and used again.

Steve

[Steveog]

I started cleaning up the reed cages today. I have Boyesen Power Reeds I plan to install. After getting it looking pretty good, I noticed what looked like a tear in the molded-in, rubber, sealing surface. See Pics. My bench has an electronic maintenance magnifying glass and after looking closer, it was obviously a tiny piece of aluminum. Probably shrapnel left over from 9/11/19. After I did a bit of careful surgery with a fresh utility knife blade, I began to notice tiny pits in the upper edge of the entire rubber gasket.

The second pic shows the result of the surgery.

Now, the question is, "will this pitting effect the engines performance if I just reassemble or can the pits be repaired with something such as silicone sealant or am I completely fucked, as the whole cage may need replacing"?...its showing up as NLA on from some Japanese parts suppliers. (This was a quick check of 3xv parts only. There is probably a cross-referenced equivalent somewhere. Perhaps a TZ?)

There would seem to be little point in buying used, if indeed it needs replacing.

Thanks for any advice and help.

Time for a bourbon and beer.

Steve