3xv: Project Phoenix

[Steveog]

Thanks, Karl. I'm familiar syncing the PVs, but not from a fresh rebuild with custom porting. I understand that the stock registration marks are no longer accurate for getting the PVs sync'd poperly. Appreciate your tip on manual adjustment with the servos hooked up. I need to get the engine in the chassis to run the drill you've shared.

That said, several set backs on this build have occurred because I've been too anxious to move forward. I'll take my time. Hoping to test the PV's by Tuesday (6/11).

I'm planning on all of the run-in being done with the stock -00 CDI. Once I get the jetting dialed, will move to the Zeel unit in hand. I will probably wait until after the 6/28 track day for the Zeel installation and its attendant tuning options.

My stock 28mm carbs have been jetted up to #20 pilots and #200/270 mains. Running premix. Castrol A-747. 20:1 for first 5 heat cycles, then 30:1 for first ride.

I'm a bit away from that "first kick", but much closer than a few weeks ago.

Thanks, again to you and all the Top Guns on the Forum for advice and encouragement. Invaluable.

Steve

[Martin77]

Just to echo what the others have said about the pv set up, it won't be far out at all. Probably easiest to use the marks initially to match them, then give the cables a little tweak for that final match to the ports.

Also, don't worry too much about the extra oil for break in, everyone I know just uses the same mix as normal running.

[Steveog]

Thanks, Martin. I'm on my way to the shop now. As you can see by the picture, the sync rod was far enough off center to cause my question.

I've been very sparing with the 2T build-oil. Mostly out of expense (in the US, A-747 is almost 50USD/liter). Yeah, believe it was Phil who first mentioned just using the 20:1 mix for engine build out. I'm using a small syringe meant for children. Drip. Smear. That's it.

Good to have you looking in me.

Steve

[Steveog]

Gentleman - Thanks, again. As you can see, you were correct. However, with the PV's aligned properly much of the adjustment on the RH cylinder was used up, as suspected. But, there was obviously no reason to go radical to fix things. I tried to be as accurate as possible to show that the registration points "almost, but not quite" line-up, as on a stock bike.

Warwick - Your emergency post was absolutely on-point. I've thanked you so many times, just take it for granted, this time. Roger?

Karl - Will follow your advice for final PV sync. Most helpful, as it would have been easy to install the expansion chambers, only to want a more precise answer. Did you write code that sends out an emergency text message..."The Yank is about to do something ill-advised?" Seriously, You've done such a great job with the site, a cyber "Bat Signal" wouldn't surprise me.

Martin - Glad you jumped in. Your opinion is always highly valued. Believe I'll use a felt-tip maker for the temp registration points. Because the PV's were sync'd when it let go, I should be close when I "dry-test", per Karl's suggestion.

Have good week, boys.

Steve

[Steveog]

New question: I bought four new OEM water jacket head studs. All good, except one mount point on the lower cylinder was significantly "looser" than the others. I was able to finger thread it past the stock position. Now, that the engine seems almost ready for re-installation, these little details need a solution.

Normally, I would use Teflon Tape on the threads in this kind of situation, but am concerned that the heat of a cylinder might change the dynamics of a method normally associated with a plumbing fix.

Is the torque of the head bolts enough to hold it all together? Physics says, "Yes." But, I'm hoping for more expert validation.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks.

[Martin77]

You can add a drop of thread lock to help hold the stud in, leave to go off, then should be fine when you put the nut on. The threads can get a bit worn once they go through the plating process a few times. 

[Steveog]

Thanks, Martin - Appreciate knowing the "why". I have "Blue" Lock-Tite. Easy solution.

I cleaned all the studs. They went in as you would expect. Got temped to buy a stud extractor/mounting tool, but the jammed nut method saved significant beer money.

Steve

[Steveog]

I used a good bit of Blue Lock Tite. Let it sit half an hour. Very tight fit. Thanks, again Martin. Torqued head and was able to mount the engine in the frame with the help of my track day partner. (That's him in the background he has a track prepped Ninja 400 and a fully built, super-sport spec ZX-6R).

I attempted to wire-up part of the loom and CDI in order to set power-valve sync, but the battery was dead. Had it on a good trickle charge all winter, but....I reconnected it to the charger, but will probably need a new battery.

I know the 3xv can run without a battery, but the PV's won't cycle for shop-syncing without one. I'll search the Forum for battery recommendations.

Today was a major moment. Thanks to all of you who have helped get me this far.

Steve

[Warwick]

Looking good, Steve! . As a stop-gap you can temporarily hook up any 12v battery to simply cycle/set the PVs of course. Looks like you might have  couple of potential donors in the workshop there...

[Steveog]

Yes. I was thinking of using a "jump" from the 400, but didn't ask my partner for permission while he was here today.

He'll say yes, as we consider team assists mutual possessions. That said, his overall generosity should not be taken for granted. He is the one who purchased the 3xv and then sold it to me for an extreme discount. I paid for all the upgrades, before and after the crank let go.

I'll ask to pull his battery before testing on the TZR. I don't want to jeopardize his bike's wiring loom.

Thanks for your kind words and continued support.

Wish me luck.

Steve

[Martin77]

All you'd need is some jump leads connected to your battery terminals for about 5 seconds to set the servo at full open.. if you wanted to run the bike without a battery full time, then remember you'll have to get a capacitor to replace it with, rather than just not fit it.

Good Luck! (not that you'll need it)

[Steveog]

Yeah, I rethought the need to actually disconnect a donor bike's battery, Martin. A jump won't fry anything on his bike. Thanks for the reminder about needing a capacitor, but I plan to run a battery just on the chance that I might want to reconnect the oil pump and  want that oil warning light.

I'll be using the stock clocks for run-in and first track day.
I really don't need a neutral indicator, but it's somewhat reassuring when engaging the system for starting.

I've been out most of the day, hope to set PV's, later though.

My best.

Steve

[Warwick]

Yeah, I rethought the need to actually disconnect a donor bike's battery, Martin. A jump won't fry anything on his bike. Thanks for the reminder about needing a capacitor, but I plan to run a battery just on the chance that I might want to reconnect the oil pump and  want that oil warning light.

I'll be using the stock clocks for run-in and first track day.
I really don't need a neutral indicator, but it's somewhat reassuring when engaging the system for starting.

It's an academic point really, but the oil and neutral lights still work fine with a capacitor fitted (once the engine is running in any case). My understanding though is that the Zeel doesn't like a no battery set-up, so that would be more of a consideration for your planned set-up I think? You should be able to source a suitable 3XV spec battery relatively cheaply in the states if yours is toast I expect as they have been used on a range of other small bikes.  The code is (G)T4B-5 -the brackets because different manufacturers use a different initial letter in the code.

Getting close to start up. Exciting times! 

[Steveog]

Understand, Warwick. Thanks for reminding me about the Zeel deal. Yes, my battery died over the winter despite being tended by a Nocco 1100. Pretty sure I can find a supplier in the US.

Believe I knew that about the clocks working regardless of battery power. I still just like seeing the lights come on before I start. A bit of OCD, maybe.

Yes, getting close to a first kick. The "jump" from the ZX got the Pv's to cycle. The sync was perfect (finger tested), but opened just a bit too far on both cylinders. Smooth action. (Thanks, Martin) Will adjust and test again.

Good to feel the bike actually turn-on for the first time in eight months.

Great to have friends never meet pulling for me. It means a lot.

Steve

[Steveog]

Good progress. Quick question. Because I'm going with pre-mix, I'll need to block-off the injection inlet on the reed block. I have couple of rubber block-offs nubs, but am questioning if I should tie off the block-offs with safety wire. Its there enough back pressure there to make a difference? The block-off were a tight fit.

I want to leave the injection port in place for easier conversion back to stock if needed.

Thanks

Steve