Dan’s 3XV1

[mellorp]

Does anyone know if there are any difference in the SPR wheels compared to SP or even R?

Bearings and spacers.

[Dan_152]

Does anyone know if there are any difference in the SPR wheels compared to SP or even R?

Bearings and spacers.

Thanks. Do you know if the bearing ID is the same? I have SP axles, not SPR

[SeaR1ck]

Do not remember thought wheels where same. Other stuff different like wheel spacers and the axles are different.
Rear wheel same thing.

Thought axle dimensions same what does the parts numbers show? Same wheel bearings used?

[Warwick]

Have always assumed the SPR used the SP wheels? SP wheels differ slightly to R wheels in that the bearing housings are different (bigger) to suit the SP bearings (to suit the SP captive spacers). Not sure which wheels the RS uses?

All models use the same OD spindles IIRC. Not sure if SP/SPR/RS spindles are a little longer though? As Rick says, the parts books will give some idea, and offering up the parts will confirm. 

[Dan_152]

Thanks Gents.

Does anyone have any suggestions making a useful front paddock stand that hooks in under the headstock/triple clamps? I think I could fabricate something a lot cheaper than what the generic off the shelf jobs go for.

[rz500guy]

Buy a Pit Bull if serious. The angle and articulation is important. I used a cheap front stand that I use for other bikes and I did not know clearance and when I lifted the bike it split my windscreen on the bottom when I picked it up. Bummer when I heard it 3 inch crack. Measure the diameter to be sure you get the correct pin. I see some of the cheap stands on bikes and just see an accident waiting to happen. Maybe a stand that goes on bottom of forks. Other problem with the triple style is you can scratch the fender up trying to get it out. Not much clearance on them. You can not service the fork with the fork stands.

[Warwick]

I use an ABBA stand for most jobs nowadays. I don't bother with the front lifter addition and just use a wooden block under the front of the motor. Let's you remove the front end nicely because there's nothing at all in the way at the front. And you don't trip over the rear paddock stand while walking around the bike either. 

[Pinarellodave]

Hi Dan
I made this front paddock stand for my TZ some years back.  Basically an 18mm shaft fitted through a piece of 25 SHS tube (thickest wall I could get).  Shaft fits into the hole in the bottom of the fork yoke.  This allows the entire front end to be lifted.  Some RHS legs that can rotate freely and a boss to attach the legs to the SHS.  Allows you to locate the legs pretty much where ever you need them - front - back and side to side.  Allows plenty of space to fit tyre warmers, remove a wheel and work on forks, etc. The whole thing unbolts into component bits for easy transport.  Supports the bike with me sitting on it without any issues. Have corked my thigh on the SHS numerous times over the years without knocking the bike off so is plenty stable enough. 

To install all you do is locate the shaft in the yoke, then lift the SHS till the legs drop down vertically to take the weight.  To remove, lift the SHS, rotate the legs while lowering till the front wheel touches down. Then extract the shaft (need to be careful not to drop it on the front guard).  Pretty simple and inexpensive.  You might be able to adapt to concept for your needs??


Hope it's helpful
Dave

[Dan_152]

Thanks for the suggestions guys.

Hi Dan
I made this front paddock stand for my TZ some years back.  Basically an 18mm shaft fitted through a piece of 25 SHS tube (thickest wall I could get).  Shaft fits into the hole in the bottom of the fork yoke.  This allows the entire front end to be lifted.  Some RHS legs that can rotate freely and a boss to attach the legs to the SHS.  Allows you to locate the legs pretty much where ever you need them - front - back and side to side.  Allows plenty of space to fit tyre warmers, remove a wheel and work on forks, etc. The whole thing unbolts into component bits for easy transport.  Supports the bike with me sitting on it without any issues. Have corked my thigh on the SHS numerous times over the years without knocking the bike off so is plenty stable enough. 

To install all you do is locate the shaft in the yoke, then lift the SHS till the legs drop down vertically to take the weight.  To remove, lift the SHS, rotate the legs while lowering till the front wheel touches down. Then extract the shaft (need to be careful not to drop it on the front guard).  Pretty simple and inexpensive.  You might be able to adapt to concept for your needs??


Hope it's helpful
Dave

Dave, that's a nice clever design. Appreciate the detailed description too. I might just cobble together something similar. Cheers!


Thanks Warwick. Have you got a picture of said Abba stand? A quick look of their website and I notice they have several different types to choose from, however I'm guessing you're referring to the one that fits into the swingarm pivot? Quite pricey at $500AUD mind but seems like a worthy investment. Are they as good as they claim to be?

[Warwick]

Thanks Warwick. Have you got a picture of said Abba stand? A quick look of their website and I notice they have several different types to choose from, however I'm guessing you're referring to the one that fits into the swingarm pivot? Quite pricey at $500AUD mind but seems like a worthy investment. Are they as good as they claim to be?

Yes, just the basic swinger shaft one. Bought mine second hand - around £50 I think. I don't think they do a fitting kit for the 3XV specifically, but the pair that came with mine fit OK, and I'm sure various fitments would fit - just measure up the swinger pivot bolt hole and the frame recess. Not as simple as a paddock stand if all you want to do is lube the chain or something but far better for any major work I'd say. As mentioned, to remove the forks or front end complete I just put it up on the Abba and use s large block of wood under the motor to keep the front elevated. If no motor in situ, then a broader prop under the main frame spars does the job.

[steptoe]

Thanks for the suggestions guys.




Thanks Warwick. Have you got a picture of said Abba stand? A quick look of their website and I notice they have several different types to choose from, however I'm guessing you're referring to the one that fits into the swingarm pivot? Quite pricey at $500AUD mind but seems like a worthy investment. Are they as good as they claim to be?

Perhaps that is a skylift,?
I bought a superbike stand abbastand a couple of years ago, £100 GBP brand new ,

[thump566]

Thanks Warwick. Have you got a picture of said Abba stand? A quick look of their website and I notice they have several different types to choose from, however I'm guessing you're referring to the one that fits into the swingarm pivot? Quite pricey at $500AUD mind but seems like a worthy investment. Are they as good as they claim to be?

Yes, just the basic swinger shaft one. Bought mine second hand - around £50 I think. I don't think they do a fitting kit for the 3XV specifically, but the pair that came with mine fit OK, and I'm sure various fitments would fit - just measure up the swinger pivot bolt hole and the frame recess. Not as simple as a paddock stand if all you want to do is lube the chain or something but far better for any major work I'd say. As mentioned, to remove the forks or front end complete I just put it up on the Abba and use s large block of wood under the motor to keep the front elevated. If no motor in situ, then a broader prop under the main frame spars does the job.

The fitting kit for the 4XV 1998 R1 fits the 3XV spot on. (definitely the R, have not tried it on an RS/SP/SPR if the SA bolt holes differ?).

[Dan_152]

thanks Lads.

The more time I spend on the bike the more I've noticed the rattly noise emitting from the left side of the engine. A sort of dry rattle sound, a bit like a dry clutch! My bike is an R so no dry clutch sadly. The noise could be from the PVs, is it normal for them to be a tad noisy? Guessing it's just the linkage rattling around as they cycle open and close?

[rz500guy]

Stands are all up to personal choice. I want solid and sturdy because when I am sitting on the bike ready for race I do not want to think about a cheap stand breaking. Where is the rattle coming from.  On the noise, Upper or lower? Mine seem loud at low idle but goes away with the slightest throttle change. I listened with a screwdriver and it is louder on clutch side. I hear it from both sides though. I am turning idle higher and after dyno run will most likely pull clutch and be sure nut on clutch hub is tightened properly.

[Warwick]

thanks Lads.

The more time I spend on the bike the more I've noticed the rattly noise emitting from the left side of the engine. A sort of dry rattle sound, a bit like a dry clutch! My bike is an R so no dry clutch sadly. The noise could be from the PVs, is it normal for them to be a tad noisy? Guessing it's just the linkage rattling around as they cycle open and close?

Yes, probably the PVs. The lower cylinder valve especially tends to rattle a bit side to side with the exhaust pulses. It's most noticeable at tickover generally. Put some llight finger pressure on the actuator end with the motor running to test if that's the issue. New external oil sseals in the open end caps will quieten it down for a little while, but not for long.... It shouldn't really be any problem in use though.