Derestricting my TZR 250 3XV RS

[Steveog]

Great progress, Rich. Yes, laying heavy torque loads on those crucial bolts is always a bit of concern. The good news: Yamaha made those bolts and treads out of good quality metal. I have stripped a few stainless bolts in aluminum threads, but never had the primary drive or clutch basket cause any problems.

Stay deliberate and it will all work.

Steve

[SouthCoastRich]

Great progress, Rich. Yes, laying heavy torque loads on those crucial bolts is always a bit of concern. The good news: Yamaha made those bolts and treads out of good quality metal. I have stripped a few stainless bolts in aluminum threads, but never had the primary drive or clutch basket cause any problems.

Stay deliberate and it will all work.

Steve

All good for now - left side all buttoned up and stator cover on.

Still wondering about the dreaded clutch - it's the basket I worry about. That's the last ohsh!t moment and then it'll all be plain sailing.

[SouthCoastRich]

A bit of free time, not waiting on any items and we're there (well almost). Both sides buttoned up, new clutch fitted and static tested. I expect there might be a little smoke off that first time as the metal plates out of the packet were not shiny.

Is there any useful information I could learn from a cold compression test? If so I'll do that.

Gearbox oil, then on to rad and hoses, then get the PVs reattached and drop the battery in for testing PV sync/oil pump sync.

[Mananon]

Inspirational stuff Rich. I'm learning loads off this thread. 

[Martin77]

Coming together nicely Rich, but no need for a compression test... I don't even own a tester..

[Warwick]

Almost ready for start up. Good stuff!

[SouthCoastRich]

Inspirational stuff Rich. I'm learning loads off this thread. 

Me too! 

Coming together nicely Rich, but no need for a compression test... I don't even own a tester..

One less thing to do, thanks! 

Almost ready for start up. Good stuff!

Thanks, could even been today! It's gone back on quite trouble free (so far)

I have decided to do the power valves before cluttering up with hoses & rad - refitted the mechanism with the bandit rubber boot. I'll need to find the key for the bike and grab the laptop to get these set up correctly with the Zeel. At least I can feel/look into the exhaust ports with everything out the way.

[Warwick]

Is you lower PV plate fitted correctly? Looks 180 degrees out to me? Easiest way to ensure correct fitment is to manually set the PVs to full open and then fit the plates. 

[SouthCoastRich]

Is you lower PV plate fitted correctly? Looks 180 degrees out to me? Easiest way to ensure correct fitment is to manually set the PVs to full open and then fit the plates. 

Whoops! You're quite right. I checked my disassembly pictures and it's backwards 

That saved me straining some NLA parts.

It's easy to get careless when it's all seemingly easy street. Thanks for spotting this 

[SouthCoastRich]

PV back on the right way around. (thanks Warwick)

Limits checked and set within the Zeel programming. Notice I have set one map to have PV open 100% at startup. As I can switch maps that gives me 2 options to see which is easiest starting.

Oil pump aligned (with ignition on, after the system cycles).

[Warwick]

Just a suggestion here: I'm not sure of any additional wiring mods you might have done, but if it's very straightforward for you to swap between the two, might it not be a good idea to get things running with the oe ignition first? The oe ignition is a known and very safe system, which might be ideal for bedding things in and general testing etc. It'd also give you a useful baseline for the 'new' motor to fully unleash with the Zeel once everything is tested safe and running well etc.?

Ha! I'm getting old and cautious... 

[thump566]

Some might say that we manage to get old because we are cautious.

So many of us will be grateful for this thread and even more so by the additional priceless nuggets offered by the experts 

[SouthCoastRich]

Sit rep - everything is back on, and fluids have been added. Can't run it up tonight as it's too late and I want the stove flu sealant to go off on the exhaust.

Forgot how annoying the rad was to refit  The key is not install the rad hose until you've hooked the rad over the stud on the left hand side.

It's sat on pads so I can see if it lost any vital fluids tomorrow.

Just a suggestion here: I'm not sure of any additional wiring mods you might have done, but if it's very straightforward for you to swap between the two, might it not be a good idea to get things running with the oe ignition first? The oe ignition is a known and very safe system, which might be ideal for bedding things in and general testing etc. It'd also give you a useful baseline for the 'new' motor to fully unleash with the Zeel once everything is tested safe and running well etc.?

Ha! I'm getting old and cautious... 

Yes I thought of this! I've copied the -00 ignition settings from Juergens post onto the Zeel (I have saved the Borut map). So in practice, I'll be on the safe map.

Some might say that we manage to get old because we are cautious.

So many of us will be grateful for this thread and even more so by the additional priceless nuggets offered by the experts 

Thanks Ron. Most annoying bit was having to go find torque settings even though I thought I'd found them out and written them all down!!

[Steveog]

As that first start approaches, I am one of many sharing your anticipation for that first cloud of blue smoke. Just be ready for some final touch-ups. Checking the torque on crucial nuts and bolts, carb slide sync, cables and places that might leak, etc. As we all know, the construction of a 3xv is never really finished.

As always, good luck.

Steve

[SouthCoastRich]

As that first start approaches, I am one of many sharing your anticipation for that first cloud of blue smoke. Just be ready for some final touch-ups. Checking the torque on crucial nuts and bolts, carb slide sync, cables and places that might leak, etc. As we all know, the construction of a 3xv is never really finished.

As always, good luck.

Steve

Yes, still a lot on the cards before going to the dyno!

Starting and getting a reasonable idle is a nervous part. I've been fighting with the idle & airscrew on this bike for a while, as there were no doubt intake air leaks, plus the hole in the crankcase! It's bound to be all at sea but starting with a safe -00 ignition is good advice.

First run up I expect to try to get the idles best as possible for a stable idle, hopefully under 1,500 rpm but I'd take that. Blipping up to 5-6k until the thermostat opens should give me sight of any water leaks.

Tuning in the idle, I may do another heat cycle before, is all about pulling a plug out (and suitably grounding it) to work one side at a time. Getting the air screw and idle pinned. Probably when running again with both plugs the idle will probably need a both side tweak down a smidge.

Shame the MOT ran out part way through this build (needs to go for a roadworthy test before riding on the public highway) but there's plenty to do before that. CH torque for sure is one to think on!

A lot to do!