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avatar_SouthCoastRich

Derestricting my TZR 250 3XV RS

Started by SouthCoastRich, September 09, 2021, 11:35:50 AM

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0 Members and 6 Guests are viewing this topic.

TZRtim

yup as thump says its straight , if the british super bike teams use them it'l ride like new  (-P) keep it going rich when do you hope to have it back on the road ? i hpoe to get mine going this sprin/ summer as iv missed 2 summers on the 3xv  :o
May the wind blow light and your groups shoot tight - UKV...  Biker and shooter for life ...

SouthCoastRich

Quote from: thump566 on March 20, 2024, 08:00:19 AM
To be fair, unless we've owned a bike from new or are absolutely convinced of its history, few of us are likely 100% sure of its condition.

At least you know yours is straight and true now (albeit a painful path), looking forward to seeing it back on the road at the meets in the summer  (-P) 8)

It did have a very odd dent in the rad when I got it....  ???

Quote from: TZRtim on March 20, 2024, 11:46:43 PM
yup as thump says its straight , if the british super bike teams use them it'l ride like new  (-P) keep it going rich when do you hope to have it back on the road ? i hpoe to get mine going this sprin/ summer as iv missed 2 summers on the 3xv  :o


A few short weeks is my estimate. That said I look back at this thread for the start of the derestricting / total rebuild and this was started 2 and a half years ago  :o
RD 350 YPVS F2
TZR 250 3XV8 RS(P)

Warwick

Quote
A few short weeks is my estimate. That said I look back at this thread for the start of the derestricting / total rebuild and this was started 2 and a half years ago  :o

A geologist friend of mine told me that new coal seams have formed since the start of this thread....  ;D  :-[
Still Smoking...

ybk


jamietzr250r

Quote

So far I've spent £700 plus VAT at Motoliner.


I think I've spent that on action man stuff during the "crash'  repair time....
'If you haven't fallen off yet you weren't going fast enough'
3XV1
RD80/125 YPVS HYBRID
RD125LC MK2 (For Sale in bits all there needs engine rebuild)
Jap Import TZR50R (for sale now project or parts)

SouthCoastRich

Quote from: Warwick on March 21, 2024, 08:20:52 PM
Quote
A few short weeks is my estimate. That said I look back at this thread for the start of the derestricting / total rebuild and this was started 2 and a half years ago  :o

A geologist friend of mine told me that new coal seams have formed since the start of this thread....  ;D  :-[

Quote from: ybk on March 21, 2024, 09:50:37 PM
;D

I just hope I get it finished before "What was petrol Grandad?"
RD 350 YPVS F2
TZR 250 3XV8 RS(P)

SouthCoastRich

Quote from: jamietzr250r on March 22, 2024, 01:02:10 AM
Quote

So far I've spent £700 plus VAT at Motoliner.


I think I've spent that on action man stuff during the "crash'  repair time....

But no VAT?  ;D
RD 350 YPVS F2
TZR 250 3XV8 RS(P)

SouthCoastRich

#712
I'm having a little trouble with my leak down test. The lower inlet has a small split just behind the clamp. See pic. Any ideas how to seal this or.... is it junk?
RD 350 YPVS F2
TZR 250 3XV8 RS(P)

ybk

I have an intake that's split at the same spot. Was close to just chucking it but I've kept it thinking maybe one day I can maybe repair it. It's the the worst spot for a split since the clamp will put more pressure on any repair. Even when repaired how long would it be trustworthy?

Sorry no birght ideas but also interested in options...

chippy

I messaged rich about this. I'm exactly the same. Got two split ones waiting for the miracle cure. I found something last week that I will try as this topic has come up. Black CT1. It's a really really good building adhesive. Probably the best on the market. It's very flexible and looking at its data sheet it withstands petrol and chemicals. Best I've found. Sikoflex was another good option but nothing petrol proof. I've got two busted manifolds so I'll try it on the worst one and give it some abuse.
Ride it like you stole it

SouthCoastRich

Quote from: ybk on March 27, 2024, 03:17:52 AM
I have an intake that's split at the same spot. Was close to just chucking it but I've kept it thinking maybe one day I can maybe repair it. It's the the worst spot for a split since the clamp will put more pressure on any repair. Even when repaired how long would it be trustworthy?

Sorry no birght ideas but also interested in options...

Quote from: chippy on March 27, 2024, 10:12:50 AM
I messaged rich about this. I'm exactly the same. Got two split ones waiting for the miracle cure. I found something last week that I will try as this topic has come up. Black CT1. It's a really really good building adhesive. Probably the best on the market. It's very flexible and looking at its data sheet it withstands petrol and chemicals. Best I've found. Sikoflex was another good option but nothing petrol proof. I've got two busted manifolds so I'll try it on the worst one and give it some abuse.

I got three options now! My first gambit is with Yamabond 1215, then Bulldogboys suggestion of Gold Label Pond Sealer will arrive today, now CT1!!

After a couple of failed attempts I think one key consideration is how to apply the sealer. I initially did this with the inlet as pictured, which has failed (twice) now. My last shot has been to apply when stretched (i.e. carb / bung inserted). I think that's got to be a better mode as the split only opens up when the thing is stuffed.
RD 350 YPVS F2
TZR 250 3XV8 RS(P)

Warwick

I can't really make out from the pic. Does the split actually go right through the rubber? And is it only in the outer edge of the clamping band area? If no to the first question, and yes to the second, it'd probably be fine in use.

Why the leakdown test in any case, have you had the motor apart again, or was it running badly or something?
Still Smoking...

SouthCoastRich

Quote from: Warwick on March 27, 2024, 11:49:26 AM
I can't really make out from the pic. Does the split actually go right through the rubber? And is it only in the outer edge of the clamping band area? If no to the first question, and yes to the second, it'd probably be fine in use.

Why the leakdown test in any case, have you had the motor apart again, or was it running badly or something?

It goes right through at the rear of the clamp. So basically closer towards the reed block.

I did the leak down test because when I was stripping the bike I found coolant leaked into puddles between the to cylinders so wanted to check that nothing was battered from the accident.
RD 350 YPVS F2
TZR 250 3XV8 RS(P)

chippy

Ride it like you stole it

SouthCoastRich

RD 350 YPVS F2
TZR 250 3XV8 RS(P)