2MA clutch rebuild gone wrong

[Yammaman]

IClutch was slipping at anything over 9k so I have bought an EBC kit, plates and springs, fitted and now the lever is heavy as hell and neutral is never going to happen.. Cable is good and there was no visible issues with anything when I installed. Plate stack was only just 1mm taller than the old plates but the new springs looked way more beefy, have tried with the old plates and lever is still shit, new plates and old springs which were still inside the spec 32.9mm. Need to test ride tomorrow as pissing today, would really prefer the new uprated springs were in but maybe not going to happen, any thoughts?

[SeaR1ck]

Torque spec you did used on the spring bolts when tightening them? No special alignment points?

[oldiggy]

Updated springs are a Yamaha part on f111 site.

[Yammaman]

 Interesting, I had this in the manual, spring screws torque 7nm

[teezer250]

About 6 years ago I bought the uprated yamaha f3 springs for both my road going 1KT's and the lever was heavier in operation.
During a ride on one of them,the lever operation got really stiffer and on getting home I removed the cable and found there was no free movement back and forth,(inner cable must have been frayed inside the outer) and ended up buying a new cable.

About a year later I was getting arthritis in my left fingers(I was 61 years) and had to put the standard springs back in both bikes to be able to ride them on the 230 miles round trips I did.

Make sure the cable is free in operation and set correctly at the clutch cover mounting.

[tzr-v4]

Good information
FIII   spring =>   90501-23700      => 2019 TW200 - TW200K1C (and other bikes)

Should be easy to find.

[rz500guy]

Was the total stack 1 MM or each plate? Did you soak the plates in oil overnight? Just thinking they could of swelled up more after being oil soaked.

[Yammaman]

Was the total stack 1 MM or each plate? Did you soak the plates in oil overnight? Just thinking they could of swelled up more after being oil soaked.

Was the total stack, old plates were around 2.8mm each and new were 3mm, they were soaked in oil for as long as it took to strip the motor..

[James P]

Was the total stack 1 MM or each plate? Did you soak the plates in oil overnight? Just thinking they could of swelled up more after being oil soaked.

Was the total stack, old plates were around 2.8mm each and new were 3mm, they were soaked in oil for as long as it took to strip the motor..

I have only ever used standard clutch plates in a TZR, but...when I first rebuilt my Suzuki PE250 http://pure2strokespirit.net/forums/index.php?topic=6434.0 I bought a set of Barnett clutch plates and springs. I immersed the friction plates in oil for weeks before assembly (as I normally do with new clutch plates), but the clutch suffered badly from drag and the bike was horrible to ride in slow-moving traffic. The effect was not quite so bad if I purposely abused the clutch, but I couldn't continue with it like that.
On removing the Barnett plates, I found the stack of friction plates was only 0.5mm taller than the stack of standard plates. I put the standard plates (thicknesses all within specification) back in with new standard springs and clutch operation suddenly improved to the point of being the equal best of anything I have tried so far - riding in slow-moving traffic was no longer a problem.

Barnett clutch plates are (as far as I am aware) regarded as good quality, but it would have been necessary to modify something in the clutch assembly (e.g. pressure plate) for them to work correctly. As such, it was much easier to refit the standard plates.

The whole episode illustrated that even such a small difference in stack thickness was enough to make the difference between a clutch that was very nice to use and one that was very difficult to use.

If you haven't already done so, it may be worthwhile to confirm that your plain plates are not warped and that there is not some other problem limiting the travel of the pressure plate or operating mechanism.

Regards,
James