My '91 3XV project

[JKV45]

I picked-up this '91 TZR250R up a few months ago, and have been slowly working my way through it.

You cannot view this attachment.

These have always been my first choice of the 250 2-strokes, and it finally worked out to get one.  I grew up on 2-stroke MX bikes, then a RD400 and RZ350, back in the day.  I've always liked small and light motorcycles, and a 250 2-stroke fits the bill.  Looks, sounds, and smells cool too.

I knew the fairings and silencers were aftermarket (I removed the RS - "Racing Sports", lettering), and the tires were junk, but there have been more than a few surprises so far.

It starts first kick, and runs well, but it's had a hard life and needs a fair amount of TLC.  The gauges read 8400 km, but I'm sure that's not correct. There were no air filter elements.  There were broken bolts. It shows signs of being laid down on both sides.

So far I've been doing fluid changes, maintenance, replacing corroded fasteners, as well as powder coating all of the rusted and corroded brackets and such.  Because it will never be a museum piece, I have taken the liberty of just doing it the way I like - which means satin black powder coat on most of the corroded aluminum parts like the rearsets, controls, brackets, etc. I blacked out the insides of the fairings. The wheels will be coated a semi-gloss black when I do the tires over the winter. Almost everything except the bodywork will be black, like the Marlboro 500GP bikes.

A buddy did some paint touch up on the main frame rails, and I removed and cleaned the oil tank and airboxes.  The gas tank is good inside, but has been repainted with a different (not correct) design. I have fork seals and wipers, chain and sprockets, as well as new bearings for the swingarm, which I plan to pull off and refinish over the winter.

You cannot view this attachment.

Overall, I was a bit surprised how much corrosion was on it, and some of the poor repairs, but I'll get it back to decent condition and make it my own.

It's kinda like that hot girl you dreamed about, back in the day, but never dated.  Then, many years later, you connected with her, only to find she was a bit rougher than you expected and didn't look so hot without her makeup.

[thump566]

Sounds like a road many of us have travelled 
Just a thought, if you are dropping the arm out then you may want to consider adding the thrust bearing/washers from the SP parts catalogue- they are an easy addition although somewhat pricey 

[SeaR1ck]

These bikes generally just sit and get neglected by the original owners in Japan. Where a garage is a luxury. Where it might have been under a bike cover at best.

Usually owned by some young guy initially. Rode until it broke or crashed. If it didn't get track dayed. Plus throw in the fact it's on an island. Lots of corrosion.

Those bike importer / flippers also buy these bikes at auction houses for cheap. Then Sometimes they'll detail the fairing and such. To try n make it look good for maximum resale.

I've personally have restored 8 of these jdm two strokes. Every single one has required full tear downs to make them right and reliable and safe to ride.

Just remember your probably the first person to take it that far apart. Since it was assembled by the factory.

I strongly recommend you go over everything. The engine top to bottom lot of the time the old seals and gaskets are cooked. Same goes for any rubber bits hoses cables. Just because it runs means nothing.

Your most likely the first person who's shown it love. Take your time do it right.

When I got my 95 spr it ran but when I took it apart. I found out the one cylinder had a cracked exhaust bridge. My long term 92 R model project. Ran when I got it but it was sucking coolant into the left cylinder.

I also found similar things on the two nsr 250's I did and my rgv 250.
You cannot just assume it's all right.

[JKV45]

These bikes generally just sit and get neglected by the original owners in Japan. Where a garage is a luxury. Where it might have been under a bike cover at best.

Usually owned by some young guy initially. Rode until it broke or crashed. If it didn't get track dayed. Plus throw in the fact it's on an island. Lots of corrosion.

Those bike importer / flippers also buy these bikes at auction houses for cheap. Then Sometimes they'll detail the fairing and such. To try n make it look good for maximum resale.

I've personally have restored 8 of these jdm two strokes. Every single one has required full tear downs to make them right and reliable and safe to ride.

Just remember your probably the first person to take it that far apart. Since it was assembled by the factory.

I strongly recommend you go over everything. The engine top to bottom lot of the time the old seals and gaskets are cooked. Same goes for any rubber bits hoses cables. Just because it runs means nothing.

Your most likely the first person who's shown it love. Take your time do it right.

When I got my 95 spr it ran but when I took it apart. I found out the one cylinder had a cracked exhaust bridge. My long term 92 R model project. Ran when I got it but it was sucking coolant into the left cylinder.

I also found similar things on the two nsr 250's I did and my rgv 250.
You cannot just assume it's all right.

Will a leakdown test tell me anything?

Compression is in the proper range according to the manual.

Is it possible to source all of the rubber parts, hoses, and cables?  So far I've got what I've needed, but I have seen plenty of parts listed as "discontinued". I will lube the cables, but wasn't planning to replace them.

Who in the US works on these engines?  I may be able to do some of it myself, but there may be a limit.

How are the SP thrust bearings and washers, that thump mentioned, different from the standard R parts?

Thanks.


Jay

[ybk]

It's kinda like that hot girl you dreamed about, back in the day, but never dated.  Then, many years later, you connected with her, only to find she was a bit rougher than you expected and didn't look so hot without her makeup.

haha  with a bit of work she's right back to how you remember her 

Looks like you have a good base start from

Sear1ck's right though, between bodge fixes and being stood for extended periods the motor becomes a liability.

The compression may be good but a leakdown test will show if it's pulling in air from the carb intake rubbers or PV area. This will lean out the mixture and cause all kinds unwanted issues. All the engine seals and gaskets are still available. Cranks are more tricky though..

They're not hard to work on so it's all doable in the garage. Take a lot of pictures and post here if you get stuck.

Thump is referring to the swingarm axle, the R models have only washers inside the end caps whereas the SP has thrust bearings (two thin washers sandwiching a roller bearing).

Have you decided what how far you want to go with the restoration?

[JKV45]

It's kinda like that hot girl you dreamed about, back in the day, but never dated.  Then, many years later, you connected with her, only to find she was a bit rougher than you expected and didn't look so hot without her makeup.

haha  with a bit of work she's right back to how you remember her 

Looks like you have a good base start from

Sear1ck's right though, between bodge fixes and being stood for extended periods the motor becomes a liability.

The compression may be good but a leakdown test will show if it's pulling in air from the carb intake rubbers or PV area. This will lean out the mixture and cause all kinds unwanted issues. All the engine seals and gaskets are still available. Cranks are more tricky though..

They're not hard to work on so it's all doable in the garage. Take a lot of pictures and post here if you get stuck.

Thump is referring to the swingarm axle, the R models have only washers inside the end caps whereas the SP has thrust bearings (two thin washers sandwiching a roller bearing).

Have you decided what how far you want to go with the restoration?

A leakdown test may be next.

I looked-up the swingarm and purchased 2 needle bearings, but did see washers listed.  I figured I would be able to reuse the ones I have.  Are the needle bearings for the SP model, or does the R have them as well?

I was really hoping to get it going for a spring gathering, but a complete takedown is a definite possibility.

Thanks.

[thump566]

Agree totally with SeaR1ck as the more you check then the more you will want to address to ensure its safe and how it ought to be. I went this route with my 91R and took my time (about 3 years I recall ) and was glad I did.
There are numerous threads in the projects section by members, 2 recent threads may be good to read...
AndyYam and It had to start sometime
SouthCoastRich and Decomissioning .....

Incidentally SouthCoastRich has produced a number of very helpful videos throughout his epic build/rebuild/rebuild journey which have undoubtably benefitted others https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLZS-FDeuf2R3ENz2aWMUTko9niMdZlXA4

Added to the plethora of articles on the forum and vast amount of knowledge from the other members you should feel pretty confident attacking your 3XV 

[JKV45]

Looking at this page showing the TZR swingarm, do I need parts 4 (Shim) and 5 (Thrust Cover) to go with the bearings (3)?

https://www.megazip.net/zapchasti-dlya-motocyklov/yamaha/tzr250-3462/tzr250-9702/3xv1-768578/rear-arm-suspension-13366054#

I have new needle bearings (part 3) otw, but am not sure if this diagram is showing the "R" spec parts or not.

Thanks.

[ybk]

Yellow highlight is just a fat washer on an R model. The SP's have two shims with a needle bearing washers sandwiched in between per side. (Not referring to the needle roller bearings pressed into the swingarm)

To be honest I would focus on the engine first as this is not a super critical mod.


You cannot view this attachment.

Here's a pic:

[thump566]

Agreed,  I just mentioned it whilst the swinging arm was out. When I dropped my arm the first time I was unaware of thrust bearings on the SP 

[busa1300]

I would pull the exhaust and carbs and do a leak down before you spend much time on anything else on the engine. I pulled some excellent compression on my 3XV2 and got it running pretty good after I unboxed it from Japan... but it didn't last long. Luckily I got everything I needed for it before Covid wiped stock out forever.
Just did a leak down on my Aprilia RS250, after it had sat for 18 years. Held 5 psi for well over an hour twice, so I now have peace of mind to do the top end and get it back on the track.
Knowing crank is not leaking makes tuning much easier.

[JKV45]

Working my way through the suspension and brakes, fighting corrosion all the way -

You cannot view this attachment.You cannot view this attachment.You cannot view this attachment.
You cannot view this attachment.You cannot view this attachment.You cannot view this attachment.You cannot view this attachment.You cannot view this attachment.You cannot view this attachment.

Got some better upgraded calipers, thanks to Randy.

[JKV45]

More -

You cannot view this attachment.You cannot view this attachment.You cannot view this attachment.
You cannot view this attachment.You cannot view this attachment.
You cannot view this attachment.

Not doing a real restoration on it, and am blacking out a lot of the silver parts - like I usually do.

New fork seals and fluid, new steering head bearings, new tires (SM2s) ,new lines otw.

[RockyFranco]

Hi
Good job mate
Question, the paint you use is 2K for the brake calipers?
Otherwise you won't enjoy it that long, at least a micro piece of brake fluid is enought to peel it off

[JKV45]

Hi
Good job mate
Question, the paint you use is 2K for the brake calipers?
Otherwise you won't enjoy it that long, at least a micro piece of brake fluid is enought to peel it off

Thanks.

Everything is powder coat except the fork lowers, which is 2K SprayMax satin black.