3MA-3 and 5 Info????

[morepower]

I have tried to find as much info as possible. Yes it has USD forks.. But cannot find out who made them. Showa?
The CDI and/or PV controller an cannot find out exactly which one it runs or which ones can be fitted or what the actual difference of each one is... I know the early 3MA run different flywheels and possibly the ignition is quite different too.. Sadly the bike is not with me yet. Slow boat from Japan etc. But I want to liberate some of its power using Yamaha parts where possible. I know the cylinders do seem to be a milder state of tune compared to the earlier cylinders too...Lower exhaust port etc. So how much of the 105 tech sheet stuff is relevant for the 3MA5?  Is it just a case of do the KHP/MPH inline adaptor to by pass the speed restriction and enjoy it as it is or can I do more? Does it have the same sleeves inside the exhaust or is the porting difference there and the pipes dont have the sleeves?

Sorry... I have tried to search for information but the CDI thing is spread over loads of different posts and even some of them seem to show no difference between them which is obvious.

I post with just a list of CDI units and what difference each one makes and which ones are compatible with which versions would be ace if anyone has that information.

Cheers sorry to be a pain.

[jools]

It depends what you want it for.......

Once you start moving away from standard settings you WILL have problems.

my recommendation is if its a road tool to ride for fun keep it stock or you will lose the "fun" part.

[morepower]

It depends what you want it for.......

Once you start moving away from standard settings you WILL have problems.

my recommendation is if its a road tool to ride for fun keep it stock or you will lose the "fun" part.

True...  The one thing I do want to know is about the forks to be honest. I have read the rear shock can be rebuilt so if it can then it can be re-valved and adjusted to suit our larger European bulk. The forks is a slightly different matter with no compression or rebound damping. So it would be spring rates and oil weight then air gap adjustment. But if you know the fork it can possibly have a different cartridge fitted to change the damping in each leg and have pre-load adjustment.

I dont mind spending time with boxes of jets and playing with the bike too much. Plus I may be getting a second 3MA5 soon too. I have 3 bikes coming from Japan but a mate wants one of them so it gives me a good chunk more towards getting a second 3MA. I didnt actually want one so nice and original but for how much my cheeky bid got it for it was rude not to have it. There was one on Yahoo Auctions which was rough and double the price I paid for my Black one.. If an SP came up I would think about it but there is another USD fork bike which is due to be up for sale. I actually wanted to have a bike for some track fun to go with my full carbon Aprilia RS250.

I ran a TZ250U for a while back when they came out and as much as I had a love/hate relationship with it I look back on it as a good if weird time too. It was not my bike and I got to ride it and blow it up/ crash it (Not too often) and give all of the information we found back to Yamaha as it was a semi factory works race bike. I never got to race the V twin although I did get to ride the OW82 for a few hours as a thank you..

[mellorp]

Just thrash it
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Se00GdJ3whQ

[morepower]

Just thrash it
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Se00GdJ3whQ

Cool. I saw your 3XV video from Cadwell.. I was hoping you would have a video on the 3MA at either Cadwell or Mallory.  Just an idea for lap times... lol.. I wobble round Cadders with about a 1m 51sec lap time. Mallory about 1.00 minute. depending on traffic. Its borderline for moving up to the next group but as I use my road bike I decided to build my little RS250 Aprilia as a trackday only bike. It still needs to be finished as it is a bit long term due to work. So if the second 3MA comes up I would use it as my trackday bike while I build the RS. I know the RS will be quicker than the 3MA simply because it will be so much lighter, 108KG ready to ride, and the suspension changes with a hand built Bitubo rear shock and radial front forks which have been valved and sprung is set up for the track.

It should lap Mallory sub 59 seconds and get into the mid to high 1m 40's at Cadwell.

I have slowed down a bit but, hell, getting older does that.... Haha..

[mellorp]

Just thrash it
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Se00GdJ3whQ

Cool. I saw your 3XV video from Cadwell.. I was hoping you would have a video on the 3MA at either Cadwell or Mallory.  Just an idea for lap times... lol.. I wobble round Cadders with about a 1m 51sec lap time. Mallory about 1.00 minute. depending on traffic. Its borderline for moving up to the next group but as I use my road bike I decided to build my little RS250 Aprilia as a trackday only bike. It still needs to be finished as it is a bit long term due to work. So if the second 3MA comes up I would use it as my trackday bike while I build the RS. I know the RS will be quicker than the 3MA simply because it will be so much lighter, 108KG ready to ride, and the suspension changes with a hand built Bitubo rear shock and radial front forks which have been valved and sprung is set up for the track.

It should lap Mallory sub 59 seconds and get into the mid to high 1m 40's at Cadwell.

I have slowed down a bit but, hell, getting older does that.... Haha..

Cadwell Park 250GP lap record is 1:33 a bit slower for pre 1992 at 1:40 pre 1992. I'm 20 seconds off that. The leading pro-am 250's (Sept 2017) were lapping in about 1:55, the majority around 2:00. You must be fast if you think 1:51 is wobbling. The 3XV goes round in about 2:05

[morepower]

Its relative, I guess... Haha.. I must have done 2000+ laps there when I was a kid racing 250's and 350's. I did some testing for Yamaha as a development rider and did some work one way or another right up until Yamaha ran the R7 when I developed a crank for Haga to use and Christer Lindholm when he won the only national/international championship for Yamaha on the R7.

I have always had a Yamaha somewhere since I was about 10 years old. I have had other bikes too and built a Suzuki GSXR600 to set a lap record at the Nurburgring a few years ago for Fast Bike Magazine. It is only now I can actually afford both the money and time to do what I regret never doing and getting a 3MA to play on. Built a few other bikes so this is partly an investment to buy a few bikes to keep for a while as a pension fund and get a few I wished I had when I was a lot younger. Life, work and family got in the way so now I am just going go have a bit of fun. Luckily my work now is helping me after years of trying to get established. My Carbon fibre parts have been used on BSB, WSS600 and the odd GP bike too.   

[Edd]

Hi More Power;

The 3ma5 is the same as the 3ma3. It runs the 10 cdi 10 barrels same carbs and vaj setup and same pipes same flywheel crank etc. The 105 paper is not really the answer "the pipe mod works" there is another paper showing the 4 steps of detuning the 3ma motor. Rather go with an after market ignition zeel or ignitech. I managed to get 69bhp from my 3ma hybrid. But it cost me a pretty penny and I did all possible mods. By going with a zeel and the 5 step derestricting you will get close to 60bhp.

From memory airbox snorkels to be modified.
Remove rings in exhaust and 105 paper mods for pipes or Martin pipes he is a member on the forum.
Jetting to suite; fixed air jet size 100 to start with, drop the vaj worked better for me, bigger mains Q4 needle jet maybe bigger pilots
Ignition zeel to cater for ignition advance and no need to derestrict speedo.


Very important get an egt and fit on rhs pipe as the 3m seizes on rh cylinder. As a safety one jet size on mains bigger on rhs.

Edd

[morepower]

Thank you.. I want to try and keep it looking as original as possible. The bike looks too original and nothing is after market on it at all. So I want to just un-cork it and not make too many changes. Although if I do sort out a second bike before winter is over that will be played with. I would get a reverse cylinder TZ to re-live my past.. But they are really expensive and will probably line me up for disappointment. Rose tinted glasses of what the last one was like. At least with a road bike I will not expect it to be the same... lol..

[jools]

Perhaps just one step at a time, get it dialled in then when happy go to the next mod, repeat.

Too many times I've done too much and in one hit & stood there scratching my head, before going back to what worked and then slowly working forward again.

Be careful of so called "experts" on dynos............

[mellorp]

Perhaps just one step at a time, get it dialled in then when happy go to the next mod, repeat.

Too many times I've done too much and in one hit & stood there scratching my head, before going back to what worked and then slowly working forward again.

Be careful of so called "experts" on dynos............

Wise wise words OB1

[morepower]

Sorted a second bike and this will be played with.. Its low miles but has been altered and I have a resto project with the black one so I am going to just make it handle better and make it more suited to being ridden hard. Getting down to a 1m 5sec lap of Mallory is not hard and Cadwell anything over 2 minutes would be possible with a stock chassis and un-corked motor. I want to get sub 1 minute on it at Mallory and get sub 1m 55 sec at Cadwell if I can. So this one will be the project. I also have an NSR MC18 which is good for 1m lap at Cadwell already so I want to just get it as good or a little better than the MC18. That is already on MC21 17 inch wheels front and rear so it has good tyre choices and the suspension is not bad with the TTF3 rear linkage plates.

So as this white one already has 17's and some pipes I am hoping it has been sorted fully and just needs some dyno time and paint..



I want to get it more like the TZ and put the green number boards on there too I am looking for some TZ Nissin calipers now too. I just need to sort out the linkage to raise the rear back up to where it should be and give it a little more lift or make it adjustable ride height. I know I can get an Ohlins for the rear already so its then just sorting out the front possibly with a cartridge conversion inside the original forks.  I think setting up a chassis can gain as much if not more than trying to get more power as it loses something elsehwere. Chassis mods help regardless and any gain is a gain from low to high speed.. Haha.

I dont want to be one of those guys just wobbling round on a bike in the slow group on a bike that is poorly set up and not using it how it was intended..