Dual ECU Setup SPR (Sugo 75 + Standard) - Working - How I did it

[pnicho]

DISCLAIMER: THIS IS FOR INFORMATION ONLY, IF YOU DECIDE TO DO IT ON YOUR OWN BIKE THEN PLEASE CHECK ALL THE FUNCTIONS STILL WORK AFTER.


Taken me longer than I wanted to because of life rather than difficulty, but I have finally completed my Dual ECU project with some input from the very grainy photo's from Japan.
This gives the option of running the Sugo ECU whilst keeping the standard oil solenoids instead of having to revert to a manually controlled oil pump.

I'll try and explain the logic behind the process and put some photos in on the way.

So the first point of call was to identify any potential wires that could be needed. Looking at the manual, and the old photos. The following wires were suspected to be needed.

Pink (called peach on some diagrams) - Oil Solenoids
Yellow - Throttle Position output
Yellow/Blue - Throttle Position input - Connects to blue on the TPS
White/Green - Output from generator
Blue/Green - Output from generator
Red/White- Stop Switch
Black - Ground

Throttle Position

Next I checked how the TPS was functioning. The black and blue wires are the top and bottom of the resistor. The yellow wire is the wiper of the resistor, as such, as you move the throttle the output on the yellow wire changes. It was also at this moment that I realised that even without the engine running, if you twisted the throttle you could hear a click from the solenoids, and you could also see a change on the output of the pink wire on the oscilloscope. However the output that was coming out at this moment was obvious that it wouldn't run the solenoids.

Zero throttle - Blue trace is TPS, yellow is oil solenoid.

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Full throttle

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Start/Stop switch

I found out quickly, that the ECU doesn't run and there's no output from the TPS if the bike was in the stop position

White/Blue & White/Green

The next thinking was "How does the ECU know the bike is running?"

First thinking was that it would be from the rev counter, however the rev counter signal is PWM so that didn't seem right. The bike needed to know it was running, but how.

That's when it dawned on me, that the white/blue and white/green wires coming from the magneto are giving an input to the ECU, this is how the ECU knows the bike is running. Edit: (was very tired when I originally did this) - these are the pickup coils that tell the ECU when to fire. This is how the bike knows what speed it's running at etc. Need those wires.

With that worked out there was more testing needed. Using the oscilloscope again, I looked at the output to the solenoid valves under zero throttle and a higher throttle whilst the bike was running.

It was hard to get the oscilloscope to play ball with the triggers as it's quite old and the PWM signal is very fast.

Below is zero throttle. If we look we can see that there's just about 2 pulses in the window.

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Then I went to a much higher throttle below.

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The pictures aren't great, but when you're watching it in real time you can see the PWM output to the oil solenoids change as the throttle is increased.

Yay - now I have a reference.

Next was to start wire splicing. I know the wires I think I need, now I need to tap into them. But first, I should take photos of the current pin arrangement.

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I had a sugo wiring loom kicking around, so I decided I would butcher that rather than butcher the genuine wiring harness. Being an SPR I didn't need to worry about connecting the power jets.

I realised that it was quite easy to pop the pins out of the connectors, so I cut the tape off the wiring loom back to where I wanted to splice into, popped the pins out that I wanted and then slid heat shrink down the wires.

Photo below is of the wire splicing process, my mate was over helping as I needed 2 sets of hands for when we were investigating how the system worked.

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With wires spliced in, I connected the SUGO ECU into the original ECU position. This ECU is going to run everything except the oil solenoids, so all the original pins except the pink wire was re-inserted into the correct location and connected to the sugo ecu.

Note the missing Pink wire below. The original connector has been heat shrinked, and then covered in insulation tape. Don't want any confusing output signals from the Sugo ECU.

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I made the spliced in wires extra long. We needed to check that the bike was functioning as expected. This meant that we could cut the shielding off the cable and connect the test probes to those wires.

Using the donated wires from the sugo harness I moved some of the wires around and connected the 7 wires that I needed. PLEASE NOTE: Colours are not in the right locations on the stripped down connectors, don't use them as a reference. I then run them to a separate 6 way connector and 1 single one (for the Pink wire). The connectors I have used are waterproof automotive ones. Sorry I haven't taken an actual photo of the connectors going into the original ecu. I will do next time I take it out.

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At this point it was ready to test the dual ECU setup. I don't have photos, but the output to the oil solenoids was identical to before and changing as the throttle was increased. Yay.

A quick test ride realised that the bike was now bloody fast, but also gave time for if there was any oil starvation happening to happen. The bike run like a dream and was still smoking when I arrived home.

Next it was the job of tidying up the wiring loom etc and finding somewhere for the standard ECU. The standard ECU is now under the seat secured by some heavy duty industrial 3M velcro. It's not going anywhere.

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Hole was already in the under seat storage box so I utilised it.

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That's it for now. I will be riding the bike over the next couple of weeks and I'll update if there's any problems.

Hope this has been useful, and happy to answer questions if anyone has any (as long as I know the answer).

[ybk]

This is very relevant to my interests! I have wanting to do this for ages but it's been slow going. I have collected some bits (spare loom and OEM connectors to make everything reversable with no damage to the original loom.) I knew I had to get an oscilloscope to understand the 2t solenoids but now that you have done the hard work I will ride your coattails!

I'm on a work trip at the moment but when I'm back I'll get in touch for some more detailed pics so I can get mine working as well.

[ybk]

Here is what I have planned, I got some female CDi connectors and a sacrificial loom which I will add to the end of the stock loom. Then I'll splice the sacrificial loom to the secondary CDi. The plan is to make it easily reversible. Not sure if it will work though...

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[ybk]

@pnicho How is the bike doing? Did you manage to fix it up?

[Russ_3XV]

Here is what I have planned, I got some female CDi connectors and a sacrificial loom which I will add to the end of the stock loom. Then I'll splice the sacrificial loom to the secondary CDi. The plan is to make it easily reversible. Not sure if it will work though...

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do you have. link for those connectors that go into the cdi? need some for my zeeltronic.

[ybk]

@Russ_3XV All good, I got them here, I think these are the links:

https://kojaycat.co.uk/epages/950000457.mobile/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/950000457/Products/13W-FEM-MT090

https://kojaycat.co.uk/epages/950000457.mobile/en_GB/;ClassicView=1?ObjectID=133424&ViewAction=FacetedSearchProducts&FocusReference=RemoteSearch_NavBarLeft_0&SearchString=ECU-6WAY-MAL-CONN

They have the male and female connectors.

[Russ_3XV]

thanks