Project: Garage Find

[Paul]

Nice work
HM came to the rescue nicely there

[Neal]

Great work !

Why do you soak your clutch plates first ?

[squirrel_hunter]

That is a good question.

It goes back to when I first started throwing spanners, Haynes (or the Great Book of Lies) said to. So I did. And its always stuck. To be fair I don't know why they said to but I don't think it does any harm as it is a wet clutch. I suppose its a way to ensure that they are nicely oiled before going into use?

[squirrel_hunter]

Not as productive as I wanted to be today as something else came up. However the clutch is now in.



The new EBC Heavy Duty friction plates from Yambits were oiled up and placed into the basket using the original plain plates. Starting with a friction plate, then plain, then friction, and so on.

Next was the new EBC Heavy Duty springs from Wemoto. Compairing these to the originals they were about half a coil longer than the originals, I would say this would be due to wear. The pressure plate was mounted with its actuating arm and bearing before the springs and original bolts.



Tightening the bolts on the clutch up to 7nm was nerve racking as my torque wrench only goes down to 10nm, so I had it set slightly below that and eventually they all clicked round.

Now was time to build the barrels and the powervalves. After cleaning the valves up of the old coke deposits with WD40 and a little wet and dry I started on the right cylinder. New seals from Yambits were added and the valve greased up before inserting into the cylinder.



I used the handle of an insulated pliers to lock the valve to tighten the joining bolt. And then it was a case of tightening the valve holder bolts on the outside of the cylinder. And this was where I had a problem. There was some I think blast media in the threads left over from the powdercoating process. This makes tightening the bolts difficult and there is a big risk of damage (see the lower yoke) removing this media is also a pain. So that's where I am currently. Just need to sort the thread out on the holders by which time I should have the stud dowels for the cylinders and so the pistons can go on...

[squirrel_hunter]

To continue the story, I built the second cylinders powervalve today. Not a lot to show for that and fairly straight forward. The powervalves are different between the cylinders but it all goes together in a fairly logical order with new seals.

New studs and dowels that were needed were now on the engine and with the cylinders built it was time to get the pistons on.



I cleaned up the pistons crown with WD40 and a little wet and dry, nothing harsh just to remove the carbon deposits. I've reused the piston pins but am using new small end bearings and circlips. The piston rings were checked at Piston Broke and were passed for use.

Getting the new piston circlips in was easier then the last time I tried it which was nice, but I still had the bottom end sealed up with tissue just in case. The small end, pin and bore were all lubricated with 2Stroke oil to help assembly.

Being sure that the piston rings were lined up I slipped the barrels over the pistons and seated them on the crank case. It was then time to break out the Yambits order and the new nuts to secure them.



And no sooner did I have the barrels on I was taking them off again. Who in Yamaha thought that design was a good idea needs to write me a letter of apology. The problem is the two lower middle nuts. They are to close to each other and the cylinders overhang the nuts. So to get them tightened up I needed to remove the left barrel and its stud. Then using a crows feet spanner that I can attach to my torque wrench I tightened the nuts up.

Now with one cylinder on it was time to reinstall the left barrel. The opposite nut to the last problem one was just as much an issue on this one. I don't think the powdercoat helped as the extra thickness might have got in the way slightly. But still the design is a pain. Oh and one more thing I found that getting the lower outer nut on to the stud needed to be done before the barrel was fully seated as the cylinder overhang prevents the nut from going on.



But finally both barrels were fully attached and torqued down. While I was doing this I regularly rotated the engine to check that nothing was misaligned. All felt fine as the pistons moved up and down as they should.

I also put the powervalve joiner on which ensures that both valves move at the same time, and checked the powervalve movement was free after assembly. There are a few little external bolts that I will need to tighten properly as I'm thinking of replacing them and I have also to put the powervalve housing and cover on.

I then built the top of the barrels with new studs and an OEM head gasket. The cylinder head was then installed with a Yambits nut kit and torqued up. With the head on I could rotate the crank and with my hand over the spark plug hole I could feel the suction and compression in the cylinders from the pistons, which was pleasing.



Still got lots to do. I replaced the kickstart oil seal and have been doing some painting. Without tempting fate I have a feeling that the engine will be reunited with the frame in the next few days...

[enduras_wr200]

Great job so far mate! I wish you that your feeling comes true! It's always nice when two so close friends like the frame and the engine finally meet! 



   Cheers, Fanis

[tzrfanatic]

That is a beautiful restauration. Look forward to see the bike together.
How much did you pay for the rear Nitron shock?

Keep up the good work.

Geoffrey

[squirrel_hunter]

Thanks for the comments, hopefully more updates later...

As for the shock I think it was £380 or there abouts. I bought it direct from Nitron as I needed to send them the original to work from. There are some sellers out there who listed a Nitron for a 2MA before I had mine made, not sure exactly but I think that might have something to do with the different shock linkage on the later models? But if you have the same linkage then Nitron can supply them, though I just checked on their website and the 2MA is not listed so I would give them a call if you are in the market.

[squirrel_hunter]

Well that was painful. My arms currently look like a cross between self harm and drug addiction, and my back is killing me. It would have been much easier if I had some help with this bit or if I had some sort of hydraulic table lift, but no one was around and I didn't think of the lift (the type to raise Harley's or MX Bikes) so I had to do it the old fashioned way. If you don't know what I did today this before shot might help...



It was a tight fit at the rear with the powdercoat as I had to shave a little off plus I haven't been able to fit the damper washer yet, but the engine is in. Unfortunately not without a slight mishap as it slid off of the jack when my back gave out and I lost grip of it. It slid down and rolled over, but stayed on the bench. I don't think there was any damage as it was gentle. The crank still rotates nicely so only time will tell but I can see nothing untoward on the cases.

But the engine is in an the cradle is on loosely. But I now need to take it out to fit the damper washers, however the plan for this is to remove one of the mounts lift the engine and insert the damper. Simple in its ingenuity, what can possibly go wrong?



But if this doesn't work then I will be taking it fully out and trying again, but with some assistance. And as a note it was a lot, lot easier to remove the engine as it is light. However if you are holding it with one hand, manoeuvring it with the other and sliding the bolt in with your other hand it does start to get heavy quite quickly.

There is a reason that I have fitted the engine at this point even as I still have some issues with the clutch cover as the oil pump retaining bolts are playing up. Investigation is required there. But coming back to the point of the fitting I need to check the exhausts. I have a set of exhausts to go on, but they might need something doing to them. These are not the exhausts that I took of due mainly to them having a similar mass of the moon...

[squirrel_hunter]

More bad news...

The exhausts I have don't fit.

Just lined them up on the bike and while I'm fairly confident that they are 2MA based on the history I have been given I think they will fit a race bike better. The side stand fowls the left chamber and the right foot peg mount is a little out I think they may have been used with rearsets before. Its a shame as I quite liked them.

So I'm now in the market for a set of pipes. I have pretty much decided what I'm going to do but have a couple more options to explore, any suggestions welcome.

[tzr-v4]

Go for Martin77 exhaust 
Very good value for the money (event with a shipping to France for me)

[Paul]

Cheapest is to modify the ones you own. Check they fit the flanges first.
Looking very smart by the way
I have a cheap Chinese hyd jack that has wheels on it, it helps get the motor up there
I also did my back and had arms like Arnold for 2 days doing it by myself.
Enticing friends over with the promise of cold beer also works

[4l04ever]

Have a word with Kenny at TSA.  He makes some awesome pipes and will fit them to your individual bike if you take it to him.

[squirrel_hunter]

The oil pump bolt issue has been fixed and so the clutch cover is back on with a set of new cover bolts from Yambits. But I need a few more bolts to finish of the rest of the engine including the water pump cover as I've been and mislaid them. That is very unusual for me so they must be around her somewhere. I haven't been able to activate the clutch from the arm yet, possibly due to the heaver springs, so will have to wait until the cable is on and give it another go so I'm not filling the engine with fluid yet.



Also put the generator cover on. Its a replacement that I cleaned and polished up.



While I was round there I played with the wiring. Connected up the neutral switch and then worked on the generator wiring routing. I would recommend getting the wiring routed with the engine off the bike in future as there is not a lot of room to work. But eventually the generator was connected up to the loom.



I also put some new exhaust studs onto the barrels. Again like the wiring it would probably have been a little easier to have done this with the engine off but at the time I didn't have them. They are just generic replacement studs but of a similar length and the correct pitch.



Now I was in two minds about putting the next bit up yet but I was so pleased I just have to share. Some other bits haven't been going to well so when I saw this I was very happy.



Yep I have some exhausts now. Martin77 kindly built me a set of chambers and Dennis Trollope Racing provided a pair of TZ250 silencers via eBay. Even nicer than the set of pipes I was originally going to use.



The springs look really trick. I need some new nuts though and due to the thickness of the mounting plate and the studs I'm using a 1mm or 2mm washer just to space it out. Might also use some thread lock on them to be safe.

Martin wanted me to check the clearance at the rear shock linkage as his jig is based on a race bike so they are usually raised at the rear. I'm sticking with the road set up for now.



Left clearance looks good. And the side stand also clears the pipe.



Clearance on the right also looks good.



Have to share this one of the header and first bend as it really does look nice. Its seeing parts like that which makes it worthwhile.



And finally an idea of how it will all look together. Now all I have to do is take them off and paint them with some VHT black. Almost a shame to do that but it will protect them while in use.

Just waiting for Yamaha to send me some carb parts. Sort the engine balance bar out as its giving me problems. Oh and source a set of induction rubbers as so far people cant quite understand what an undamaged set actually look like. I have more than one set here that are only fit for the bin.

[Martin77]

It was a pleasure to help Steve a very nice build so far... roll on springtime!