2MA ignition switch to 1KT CDI

[2ST]

Does anyone know how to wire a 2MA ign switch to fit 1KT CDI??

The 2MA switch earths the black/white wire to kill or stop the engine.

The 1KT switch earths the black/red wire to start the engine.

[tzr-v4]

You could use a relay using the 1KT earthing to drive it and connect the 2MA CDI on the Normally Closed output of the relay.

When 1KT run/stop button goes to earth then it activate the relay so the output goes from NC to Open.

Olivier.

[2ST]

You could use a relay using the 1KT earthing to drive it and connect the 2MA CDI on the Normally Closed output of the relay.

When 1KT run/stop button goes to earth then it activate the relay so the output goes from NC to Open.

Olivier.

Hi, Olivier, with all due respect.

Im talking about how to fit and wire a 2MA ignition "lock key" switch w/steering lock assy (with the ON OFF LOCK) to a 1KT bike that's fitted with a 1KT CDI.

Im not asking how to fit a 1KT lock key switch or kill switch (the one with RUN OFF position) to a 2MA bike fitted with 2MA/2MY CDI.


- Adam -

[tzr-v4]

It works the same.
Use the relay between the switch and the loom.
On the relay you could use the NC or NO output to inverse the state of the input

The main concern is the relay consumption if default state is activated.
In this case, use the 12V after ignition switch to power the relay.

On the schematic attached the R1 value is to be calculated.
A a diode to be added for coil induction on the relay
https://electronicsarea.com/why-is-there-a-diode-connected-in-parallel-to-a-relay-coil/.

Olivier.

[2ST]

It works the same.
Use the relay between the switch and the loom.
On the relay you could use the NC or NO output to inverse the state of the input

The main concern is the relay consumption if default state is activated.
In this case, use the 12V after ignition switch to power the relay.

On the schematic attached the R1 value is to be calculated.
A a diode to be added for coil induction on the relay
https://electronicsarea.com/why-is-there-a-diode-connected-in-parallel-to-a-relay-coil/.

Olivier.

Thank you for your response. Im new btw in this group. Nice having a pleasant chat/talk with you.

[tzr-v4]

No problem.

Updated with the diode (to be calculated ).
When opening the switch, the loaded coil will release current in the loom if no diode.

If this schematic is OK then on OFF position of the ignition switch the relay is always powered so battery life could be a problem.

Olivier.

[2ST]

No problem.

Updated with the diode (to be calculated ).
When opening the switch, the loaded coil will release current in the loom if no diode.

If this schematic is OK then on OFF position of the ignition switch the relay is always powered so battery life could be a problem.

Olivier.

Olivier, you seem to be quite knowledgeable and apt in this wiring field.

Have you ever attempted/done this to your bike. If so can you send me a photo of the wiring job you had done to your bike.

If the battery life is affected maybe just buy a battery with a battery tender in case the battery is running low to keep the battery level charged?

[James P]

It should be relatively simple to connect the 2MA ignition switch wire (black-white?) to the 1KT's black-white wire for the kill switch (use a double-banking connector). That way, turning off the ignition switch or actuating the kill switch will stop the engine, using the same black-white wire back to the CDI unit. Connect the 1KT's red-black CDI unit wire to a permanent earth and it should all work.

If you may want to go back to standard later (and hence don't want to 'butcher' anything), you could carefully withdraw the red-black CDI unit wire from its plastic block (at either the front or the back of the bike) and make up a special earthing wire with a suitable connector to join the connector withdrawn from the plastic block.

I haven't got a 2MA ignition switch in my hand to look at, but I think the plastic connector blocks are different to those of the 1KT switch. You therefore have the choice to make a special 'adaptor loom' to join the 2MA switch to the 1KT wiring system or remove the plastic connector blocks and plug the wires to each other individually.

Regards,
James

[2ST]

It should be relatively simple to connect the 2MA ignition switch wire (black-white?) to the 1KT's black-white wire for the kill switch (use a double-banking connector). That way, turning off the ignition switch or actuating the kill switch will stop the engine, using the same black-white wire back to the CDI unit. Connect the 1KT's red-black CDI unit wire to a permanent earth and it should all work.

If you may want to go back to standard later (and hence don't want to 'butcher' anything), you could carefully withdraw the red-black CDI unit wire from its plastic block (at either the front or the back of the bike) and make up a special earthing wire with a suitable connector to join the connector withdrawn from the plastic block.

I haven't got a 2MA ignition switch in my hand to look at, but I think the plastic connector blocks are different to those of the 1KT switch. You therefore have the choice to make a special 'adaptor loom' to join the 2MA switch to the 1KT wiring system or remove the plastic connector blocks and plug the wires to each other individually.

Regards,
James

Hey James, thanks, you're a star!!!

Btw can you clarify by what you mean, you can remove the black and red wire off the plastic connectors either from the front or the back of the bike?? There's only one connector to unplug the wire from??

And permanent earth? Does it mean we could connect the black red wire that is joined the the earth wire to the chassis ground point???

[James P]

Btw can you clarify by what you mean, you can remove the black and red wire off the plastic connectors either from the front or the back of the bike?? There's only one connector to unplug the wire from??

And permanent earth? Does it mean we could connect the black red wire that is joined the the earth wire to the chassis ground point???

The JDM 1KT ignition system will work when the red-black wire is connected to earth/frame, except when the black-white wire is also connected to earth/frame. You can therefore use the black-white wire alone to control the ignition...provided that the red-black wire is permanently (or semi-permanently) connected to earth.

In order to connect the red-black wire (semi-permanently) to earth, you may like to withdraw the wire and terminal from the plastic connector block. You could do this in one of two places:
a) At the back of the bike (where the CDI unit connector plugs into the loom connector) - withdraw the wire and its terminal from the CDI unit connector.
b) At the front of the bike (where the ignition switch connector plugs into the loom connector) - withdraw the wire and its terminal from the loom connector.

Whichever option is chosen, make up a special 'earthing wire' with a suitable terminal (to receive the terminal you have withdrawn from the plastic connector block) at one end and a ring terminal at the other end to clamp under a convenient chassis screw.

There is a third option, which may suit you if you will be making an 'adaptor sub-loom' to join the 2MA ignition switch to the 1KT main loom; The wire of the new sub-loom which will join the red-black wire of the 1KT main loom can be taken away to a ring terminal which can be earthed at a convenient point. With this third option, you should be able to leave all of the standard 1KT plastic connector blocks and their wires intact. 
The third option will probably be the tidiest...and it will allow an easy return to the standard JDM 1KT ignition switch later, if desired.

If any of the above is not clear, I may be able to draw a diagram...

Regards,
James