3XV1 - It had to start some time!

[Steveog]

Just a small hint, Mananon: Soak the sprocket cushion rubbers in kerosene (overnight). It not only helps clean them up (toothbrush scrubbing still needed), but the rubbers also expand slightly and takes up any "slop factor" time has worn away.

Good Luck

Steve

[Mananon]

Good tip Steve. I've got some paraffin (almost the same as Kerosene) around here somewhere.

[SouthCoastRich]

A lot of good tips and pics here  great work guys

[thump566]

Just a small hint, Mananon: Soak the sprocket cushion rubbers in kerosene (overnight). It not only helps clean them up (toothbrush scrubbing still needed), but the rubbers also expand slightly and takes up any "slop factor" time has worn away.

Good Luck

Steve

Nice one Steve 

[AndyYam]

A little update:

My powder coating was all ready a couple of weeks ago and so it's all home. I laid out the big bits in the garage to see it all together. There is ofcourse the smaller bits still in a big box including brackets, master cylinders etc. I'm very happy with the result. I know it's not technically the correct colour as it's an off the shelf powdercoat but I think it looks great.





I had an afternoon in the garage today! Woohoo!. Just came in now at 22:30 so maybe "afternoon" is and understatement.

I spent some time preparing for and ordering wheel bearings. I had a real nightmare infact. I got all confused with there being 3 bearings on the rear including the sprocket carrier bearing and I'm still convinced that the bearings listed on the manual are in correct or I have a different front wheel....oh no not this again....

My Sprocket side inner bearing (the one actually in the rim) is a B60042rs (20 x 42 x 12)
My sprocket carrier bearing is a 62/22DU (22 x 50 x 14)
My disc side wheel bearing is a 60/22DU (22 x 44 x 12)

Thats what I've currently ordered for the rear but the manual tells me that two bearings that sit actually in the rim are the same bearing (B6004RS) but this simply is wrong as far as I can see. Both of these bearings have a spacer that pushes into the centre of the bearing and therfore reduces the centre gap by 2mm which means they would have to be 22mm. It drove me bloody mad this afternoon and then I got confused and thought the fronts were both B60042RS as well but turns out they are not. They are: 62032RS so I've now ordered a couple of those off ebay for £2.40 each. Providing they are the right size and the quality is good (Dunlop) then I will use them.





Another small issue I have at the moment is that the disc side spacer is stuck in the old bearing. That 2mm thick bit that pokes though is well and truly stuck and difficult to get anything on it to push it through. The one from the sprocket carrier I was able to push out using a socket and a larger socket like a cup on the other side but this was it's impossible to do that with.

I'll probably end up buying a new spacer but will give it some good bashing about first and if it gets damaged then a new spacer it'll be. looks like they are available still on back order.




I fitted my new choke cables into the choke lever mechanism. Thank you very much Warwick for those!



I removed the old needle bearings from the freshly painted swing arm. It did cause a little damage to the powder coating as expected but these will be under the thrust covers anyway. On that note I forgot that my old swing arm has substantial damage to that area and therfore the thrust cover was also damaged. I'll need a new one so will need to get that ordered.






I had a quick look at the forks and found no play between uppers and lowers so have decided not to replace the bushes. I also removed the dust seals to check the condition underneath and it all looked very new. I suspect the seals had been replaced fairly soon to it going off the road in SA. They are not leaking so I will change the fluid and go as is for now.




I also had a look at the lower yoke / steering stem. I had a bash at removing the bearing but my god it does not want to move. I've defo made some marks of the base of the yoke. Hopefully nothing too serious. I ended up removing the seal and the cage & roller bearings to see what I was doing. I heated the whole thing up with a 550C heat gun and tried some more pesuasion but to no avail. I guess I will be a case of dremel and trying not to damage the stem. I saw YBK's pics when I started frantically searching for the answer. I also noticed Motion Pro do a tool for it but it's like £137(see 2nd link below). I might look at some kind of bearing pulley like in the link below but at present can't find any that would be long enough to fit over the top of the stem. Any other suggestions welcomed and appreciated!

https://www.flickr.com/photos/brook-reams/32352788254

https://www.mdracingproducts.co.uk/motion-pro-steering-stem-bearing-tool.html

After giving up on that for now I started to look at the master cylinders. I couldn't find a rebuild kit for the rear and had remember that the internals looked pretty good when dissasembling so will put it back together as is and see where we are at. I found a replacement front kit for £24 and so made a start fitting that. After some time working out which way round the spring goes, which way the cup seal goes and at which end of the spring I pushed it all in and it did not feel right. The piston itself didnt want to go in either and looked too big for the bore. When it finally dawned on me that I was holding the rear master cylinder and trying to fit the front rebuild kit I decided it was time to stop for the night. Maybe it was tiredness, maybe it was the 2 bottles of Ale but I'm just glad i stopped before I broken something...and this is how it was all left...



I will try and spend some more time tomorrow getting the master cylinders rebuilt and maybe the swing arm bearings fitted (the needle bearings are in the freezer tonight).

[SeaR1ck]

Lower steering stem bearing is pressed on.
And usually pressed back on.

[Warwick]

Unless you have a suitable puller you'll generally need to grind a slot in the lower bearing inner to allow you to use a cold chisel to get it off. Probs some videos on YouTube?

Rear wheel looks like it's an SP set-up, with the captive spacers, so will need the SP size bearings. Try not to muller the spacer as i suspect a replacement will be expensive and/or hard to source. Heat and a soak in penetrating fluid will probably help you get it out of the bearing relatively easily. 

[ybk]

Powder coat look real nice I see they coated the inside of the hub as well, that might take out the slack from the old cush drive rubbers which may have an unintended positive effect..

Dremel that yoke bearing, when the you grind through or get close the end of the inner race it just pops off  Use a suitably sized pipe to drift the new one into place. I usually put the yoke in the freezer overnight.

The SP captive spacers makes bearing replacement a little trickier as you have to seat them with the seal in place (support the inner race from the back). Less swearing when assembling the wheels afterwards though.

[AndyYam]

Powder coat look real nice I see they coated the inside of the hub as well, that might take out the slack from the old cush drive rubbers which may have an unintended positive effect..

Dremel that yoke bearing, when the you grind through or get close the end of the inner race it just pops off  Use a suitably sized pipe to drift the new one into place. I usually put the yoke in the freezer overnight.

The SP captive spacers makes bearing replacement a little trickier as you have to seat them with the seal in place (support the inner race from the back). Less swearing when assembling the wheels afterwards though.

Yup there were a few bits where I should have given more info / maybe they could have called to ask  but as you say this one might be a bonus. Previously I've wrapped cush drive rubbers in old inner tube to take out the slack.

Success on the yoke front, more on that in the following post.

Unless you have a suitable puller you'll generally need to grind a slot in the lower bearing inner to allow you to use a cold chisel to get it off. Probs some videos on YouTube?

Rear wheel looks like it's an SP set-up, with the captive spacers, so will need the SP size bearings. Try not to muller the spacer as i suspect a replacement will be expensive and/or hard to source. Heat and a soak in penetrating fluid will probably help you get it out of the bearing relatively easily. 

Lower steering stem bearing is pressed on.
And usually pressed back on.

Cheers Warwick & Rick. I followed your advice in the end and it worked. pics and info to follow.

[AndyYam]

I got another afternoon in the garage yesterday and had a great day!

Following Warwicks advice on not mullering what I now know to be an SP captive spacer I went to work on recovering it. Luckily I had the other bearing from the otherside so could match a socket that fitted perfectly through the inner of the bearing. I have a set of pullers that I bought and could never really get to grips with (pun intended) but managed to get a really good hold on the bearing and with the puller held in the vice I wound on the pressure. A satisfying crack was heard as the spacer broken free of the corrosion and the spacer wound out nicely.







With this now off I was able to put everything on the rear spindle to help me not get so confused as to which bearing is which. Bar 1 oil seal that I had to cut away this is all the components that will fit around the wheel.



Feeling confident I moved on to the stem and stubborn bearing. I got the Rotary mutli tool out that for legal reasons can't be called a Dremel and some cheap diamond cutting discs I bought off ebay a while ago. Expecting a big fight i settled in with a garden chair and and kept cutting a bit then checking I'd not got near the stem. Rinse....and...repeat is what I was expecting but after about 2-3 goes I decided to wedge a screwdriver in the gap and to my suprise it popped off. Amazing how that little release of pressure can change things. I guess the vibrations of the cutting, the heat and the plusgas (penetrating oil) that had been soaking in for 48 hours ish helped too.








I later continued the cut of the old inner racer all the way through so that I can use this to knock home the new bearing. The yoke is now in the freezer. I guess I can;t get the bearing too hot due to the rubber seal. If it gets stuck before its fully home then it'll be to a workshop with a bearing press and some correct size pipe or something as suggeste by Warwick I think?




With even more confidence I decided to fit the swing arm needle bearings. They had been in the freezer for a couple of days now and I pointed my little garage fan heater at the swing arm to get it warm. I got some ACF 50 grease on a rag and ran it through the pivot hole. If this has to come off in the future I wasnt it to be easy and clean.





I got the bearings out ad tried to push them in but they didnt want to go in as easily as I would have hoped given the heat differences and ended up having to use the ole bearing and knocking them in. I know this isnt ideal and should have waited til I could get some threaded bar but I decided to go ahead. I got a bit confused with the first one and thought that the thrust washer stack would need to go inside with this so kocked the bearing in a bit further than I should have. I used my blind bearing puller to try and bring it back a bit but decided it would be best to leave it in. It's like 2-3mm I'd say further than it should be. If anyone thinks this will be a huge problem I'll order new bearings and go again but at the mo I'm leaving as it.

The thrust washers/bearings got the acf50 grease too and my current end caps went over for now. I found someone willing to sell me 2 nos ones of £37.50 delivered so they are on their way here now.

I then moved on to the master cylinders and both have now been rebuilt. The front with new seals and the rear with originals as I believed at the time I couldnt get the kit but now see that I can. I'll see how it feels once on the bike and decide whether to rebuild again. I neglected to take pics of these but will add some in tomorrow maybe. All I have for now is a photo of the kit I bought for the front.



I did a few jobs of cleaning bits up and adding to the "Ready to go" section of my storage crates. It's really nice to see this build and tackling each job as one small thing was nice.

I found I have two oil tanks so chose the best and cleaned that up. I used a combination of Bicarbonate Of Soda (Banking soda) and WD40 to do an inital clean and then ACF50 almost polished in and wiped away (sparingly) towards the end of the day when cleaning the rear light I realised that furniture polish worked very well too on the plastic bits and gave that nice shine so I might go back over this with some.







The coolant tank also got "the treatment" and came up lovely. I was happy how much of the yellow colouration went and didn't notice during the process until looking at the photos after.








I was looking over the coils HT leads and spark plug caps and noticed that one has some damaged to the lead. I've order 1metre of new lead and will likely get replacement caps towards the completetion time of the project. For anyone interested its 7mm OF HT lead. I just went on ebay (£2.39 a metre delivered). -https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/130860567336


As far as i know the coils are good so we'll find out later on unless anyone can suggest an easy way to test? I hate electrics





I gave the clocks a clean over with acf50 / wd 40. I will go over again with furniture polish i expect. I want to removed the old foam and will buy some of the same thickness and try making my own but could only worked out how to remove two of the "fake allen" head caps. They are acyually push clips but 1 of them must be accessed from inside and I didn't want to delve into that at the time.





The rear brake caliper mount got a going over with brake cleaner and a tooth brush it worked a bit but was taking ages of reapplying and scrubbing. I now have my jet wash attachment for media blasting and so when I can I will give that a go. Maybe tomorrow if I can get some bicarbonate of soda somewhere local in bulk. These photos are just the before's as I forgot to get photos after.




I cleaned up the handle bars with brake cleaner but again forgot to get many photos but was happy with how they came out. Again, just the before shots here at the mo.







I had bought a spare rear shock that looked to be in much better condition that mine. It's basically just been sand blasted so I really don't know what the interenals are like and have no way to test. I removed the dust seals from the lower mounting point and cleaned through the bush/round/thing with brake cleaner. I packed it all with acf50 grease, fully cleaned the seals and put it all back together. The top rubber bush seems to be strong. If the shock is knackered then that'll be future Andy's problem and depending on finances at the time I might buy a new Aftermarket one.






I also checked over and cleaned up a few other bits such as the Rear light unit, rear disc, checked the loom for any damaged/missing connectors (none noticed woohoo), throttle tube and throttle housing,




I ordered a replacement front brake lever (after market) mine was a slightly different type - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/313543943797

I found that the clutch lever holder that I got powdercoated is not a 3XV one and so will go with that for now and may replace later.

I bought my swing arm bobbins and hooks(https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154684069074)...
...
and ordered some other small bits that I'll need:

The correct side oil seal for the rear SP wheel disc side - https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p26544/30x50x7mm-Nitrile-Rubber-Rotary-Shaft-Oil-Seal-with-Garter-Spring-R23-/-TC/product_info.html
Upper head stock bearing - https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p14780/SKF-32005XQ-Metric-Single-Row-Taper-Roller-Bearing-25x47x15mm/product_info.html


The only other thing of note is that I'm gonna use the TZ discs for now as I've found the EBC codes for the correct ones but combined will be about £300 and until the engine is finished this might break the budget.

MD2022RS  & MD2022LS in case anyone is wondering. EBC product codes. EBC have confirmed to me that they are 6 bolt hole pattent regardless of what they images are showing on some retailers. These are 282mm diameter discs with a 9.5mm offset.

Over and out for now.

[Steveog]

Great work, so far.

Considering the installation of the lower steering bearing: You could use a focused heat gun "carefully" on the inner race pointed up through the bearing and away from the seal, use a bit of grease and tap it home with a PVC tube matching the OD of the stem and the inner race of the bearing. If you can't find the proper ID PVC, an aluminum washer can be found and placed between the closest matching PVC and the bearing.

A press would be better, but not necessary. Obviously, don't let the lower bearing get cock-eyed on the steering shaft.

Good Luck

Steve

[thump566]

Andy, just a heads up to be aware of. 

Re the replacement front brake lever (after market). Someone I know had a replacement lever fitted to the ZX636 just before he got it, and periodically the front brake would lock on whilst riding without warning  After much diagnosis, turned out the after market front brake lever was not identical to the OEM part and was putting pressure on the m/c piston without any input from the rider causing it to lock on.

Moral of story ....  Check the replacement front brake lever (after market) is the same as the OEM part   

[AndyYam]

Great work, so far.

Considering the installation of the lower steering bearing: You could use a focused heat gun "carefully" on the inner race, use a bit of grease and tap it home with a PVC tube matching the OD of the stem and the inner race of the bearing. If you can't find the proper ID PVC, an aluminum washer can be found and placed between the closest matching PVC and the bearing.

A press would be better, but not necessary. Obviously, don't let the lower bearing get cock-eyed on the steering shaft.

Good Luck

Steve

thats a good idea Steve. I might just get some pvc pipe. I wasnt sure it would be strong enough so assumed it needed to be metal.

[AndyYam]

Andy, just a heads up to be aware of. 

Re the replacement front brake lever (after market). Someone I know had a replacement lever fitted to the ZX636 just before he got it, and periodically the front brake would lock on whilst riding without warning  After much diagnosis, turned out the after market front brake lever was not identical to the OEM part and was putting pressure on the m/c piston without any input from the rider causing it to lock on.

Moral of story ....  Check the replacement front brake lever (after market) is the same as the OEM part 

Ah ok that sounds fun =/ I will defo check to make sure its not pressing on the piston! Sounds like an adjustment issue though surely?

[Steveog]

The PVC used as a driver is very strong. Of course, get a large wall-thickness that has the appropriate ID.

Keep On. Looking good.

Steve