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avatar_ybk

SPR & RS

Started by ybk, April 10, 2018, 05:46:22 AM

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ybk

Haha yes Warwick, not my favorite way to do it though, was supposed to be a relaxing affair.. ;D

The single seat one is the little 50cc, both are going for their road register process. The ABS issue is a requirement for all bikes entering the fleet for the first time to have ABS fitted. The man has essentially killed off all non ABS bikes and the majority of imports in one go. Genius  ::) The SPR is kinda in the system already but I don't want to take chances, dealing with red tape is really low on my priority list..

Searick, I kept the old pistons and I have a spare NOS set as well. Shall we make a plan?

SeaR1ck

Yea, I was talking to jscnook on here about contacting wossner usa. To have some spr piston copied and have a batch done. I think the minimum is 10 pistons. He said its just mainly getting a piston to them to have it done.

ybk

#92
Road registered and running pretty good. Bone stock so I know I have a good base to work from. Now to strip it again for more work, first up the forks which need ligher oil. 10W seemed to work well in my earlier SP but on the SPR they are completely overdamped. Will go for 2.5w. Then sugo CDI and pipes for some testing.





I'm a sucker so I picked up another 50. This is a later one and pretty much the same colors as the SPR haha :)) Only 2000km, apparently it was binned then stored for 25 years in an old age home warehouse..







Searick, I still have to get those pistons to you.. :(

thump566


Pipe change is on my list at some point so interested how you progress, always been a little concerned about clearance and melting the bodywork if the aftermarket pipes are not too accommodating  :-\

Looking very tidy and even the sun came out for your photoshoot  8) :))
Forever a student attempting to learn from the Mentors.

nellyb

Looks great. Read the thread with interest as I'm heading down the same road with a SPR I bought not long back. I've found some original panels to replace the damaged originals and as time allows, the engine needs a strip and rebuild.
I'd be very interested in a set of pistons if the order goes in :)
Also be following how the Sugo and pipes fitment goes. Mines bog stock original also. Does fitting the Sugo mean a switch to premix or fitting a cable oil pump?

SeaR1ck

Quote from: ybk on February 03, 2022, 08:34:05 AM
Road registered and running pretty good. Bone stock so I know I have a good base to work from. Now to strip it again for more work, first up the forks which need ligher oil. 10W seemed to work well in my earlier SP but on the SPR they are completely overdamped. Will go for 2.5w. Then sugo CDI and pipes for some testing.





I'm a sucker so I picked up another 50. This is a later one and pretty much the same colors as the SPR haha :)) Only 2000km, apparently it was binned then stored for 25 years in an old age home warehouse..







Searick, I still have to get those pistons to you.. :(

Ybk I'm using 5 weight oil in my forks and it seems fine.

As for the pistons I just need one of those used ones for copying purposes.

I have the sugo 7k cdi on mine I'm running stock jetting with it. But if you switch it out you'll need to run premix or hopefully have one of the earlier sp throttle cables. An R cable would work cept for the one small cable that connects to the upper carb. The SP version it is a lil longer. Also need to swap oil pump to older cable operated.


I also have jackel pipes n silencers running on 95 Ron and it's running good.

Dan_152

Quote from: ybk on February 03, 2022, 08:34:05 AM
Road registered and running pretty good. Bone stock so I know I have a good base to work from. Now to strip it again for more work, first up the forks which need ligher oil. 10W seemed to work well in my earlier SP but on the SPR they are completely overdamped. Will go for 2.5w. Then sugo CDI and pipes for some testing.





I'm a sucker so I picked up another 50. This is a later one and pretty much the same colors as the SPR haha :)) Only 2000km, apparently it was binned then stored for 25 years in an old age home warehouse..







Searick, I still have to get those pistons to you.. :(


Looking good Karel. That little 50 is sweet, just like a scaled down SPR. Are the tzr50s common over in NZ? I didn't even know Yamaha made one to be honest.

Enjoy mate. 


Dan.

busa1300

#97
Quote from: SeaR1ck on February 03, 2022, 03:58:39 PM


As for the pistons I just need one of those used ones for copying purposes.


[/quote]




I have a used SP piston I could loan out.

Smoking for over 40 years.
TZR250SP...3XV2
RZ350-RZV500R where it started and why
RGV250 VJ21L-VJ22FL-VJ22N-VJ23T MotoGP street fun
RS250 Track day
KD80 cherry popper - JR50 for the kids - and a TM400 powered TS for laughs

SeaR1ck

Earlier SP pistons not the same later model SP and SPR have different ring pin locations. Both rings are centre lined and the later model SP and SPR have different porting for this. The earlier SP is more like the R model in port design.

The later model SP and SPR look more like what Yamaha did to the yz125 porting and pv. When Yamaha came out with the all new yz125 engine in 94 and went on a long run of 125 mx dominance.

Steveog

#99
Would TZ (A) pistons work with the SPR, Rick? They fit into my "R", replacing the stockers and Wossners. The TZ pistons have a single, centered ring that runs over a transfer port on the "R", but with a bit of extra chamfering on that port...no problems (Thanks, Martin). Perhaps the SPR porting will accommodate the YZ piston ring locating pin, assuming it fits at all.

Steve

Brief, fleeting Glory. Which of itself cannot last, but while it does is the best game of all.

ybk

TZ would be fine but single ring is not ideal for the road I reckon..

QuoteThat little 50 is sweet, just like a scaled down SPR. Are the tzr50s common over in NZ? I didn't even know Yamaha made one to be honest.

Yep they're cool, lotsa fun because you're flat out everywhere and your license is never in danger haha. I have the YEC CDI for it so that should give it a bit more life. These are coming from Japan, will probably be the only ones in NZ..

Quote from: SeaR1ckI'm using 5 weight oil in my forks and it seems fine.

I'm doubting my 2.5W now as I get ready to change it. What weight ballpark are you in? With 10w the forks barely move, they only respond on all adjusters fully out. That's why I went for 2.5. Are you using Motul?

Warwick

#101
Quote from: ybk on February 24, 2022, 10:45:47 AM
I'm doubting my 2.5W now as I get ready to change it. What weight ballpark are you in? With 10w the forks barely move, they only respond on all adjusters fully out. That's why I went for 2.5. Are you using Motul?

5.wt is closest to the oe oil as I understand it, but the forks should still be plenty pliant with 10wt really. How is their action with no oil in at all? I mean, could there be a physical problem causing mechanical stiction?  Are you setting the air gap correctly (spring out, fork leg fully collapsed)?
Still Smoking...

SeaR1ck

Quote from: Steveog on February 23, 2022, 10:32:37 PM
Would TZ (A) pistons work with the SPR, Rick? They fit into my "R", replacing the stockers and Wossners. The YZ pistons have a single, centered ring that runs over a transfer port on the "R", but with a bit of extra chamfering on that port...no problems (Thanks, Martin). Perhaps the SPR porting will accommodate the YZ piston ring locating pin, assuming it fits at all.

Steve

They could work but require head mod to make work. Not really feasible for a street ride to run a single ring piston. They wear out faster not a problem really on say a tz which was made with the idea of coming apart often. You know what it's like working on the tzr a single ring piston would get like half the mileage the stock would.

Would only go that route if it was the only option.

ybk

#103
Quote from: Warwick on February 24, 2022, 11:26:34 AM

5.wt is closest to the oe oil as I understand it, but the forks should still be plenty pliant with 10wt really. How is their action with no oil in at all? I mean, could there be a physical problem causing mechanical stiction?  Are you setting the air gap correctly (spring out, fork leg fully collapsed)?

I had 10w in my 92SP forks and it was great. On the SPR forks he action was smooth without any oil, it didn't feel there was any physical stiction, it felt like 92SP forks with all the adjusters in all the way, so much damping that they barley move. Air gap was good as well (no spring, collapsed).

Yamaha doesn't specify a measurement for the fork top distance on the damping rod thread but I compared it to my spare forks. What I understand is that you determine the total amount of clicks on the rebound adjuster, turn it fully in then finger tight the fork top onto the damper rod then torque up. This ensures you have the correct range of adjustment.

I'll do one fork with 2.5w and see how it turns out..

The fork internals are quite different from the other 3xv forks as well from what I have observed, its got a plate in the fork top onto which the spacer rests for example.

ybk

#104
2.5W in forks are much better but l might go 5W next time the seals need changing.

Swapped out the stock pipes for the DFR's. Very disappointed that they foul the fairing. Can't use the lower mount point and had to stick heat shield tape to the lowers. Bummer because the other DFR set I've used on the SP and R cleared the fairing perfectly.

At least it does away with the cast iron flange anchors (as well as the studs!) to make the DFR's fit:



The SPR cylinder outlet with its flush exhaust exit is not as elegant as the other guillotine SP, it makes things a little cramp.

The DFR's are very civilized in terms of decibels:



Need to run in the new top end then I'll look at CDI's.